Wine Country Weekends

For the Value Hunter

Tue, 14 Sep 2010 15:00:00 -0700

Hotel Oregon

If you think wine tasting is a luxury you can’t afford, think again. Although most Willamette Valley wineries charge $10–15 for tastings, the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, just northwest of Salem, offers an even better value. These verdant hills are home to many of Oregon’s most acclaimed wineries, and though you might have to crack the piggy bank to take the best vintages home, their $5 tastings are a steal.

FRIDAY

Check In

Although the Hotel Oregon could use some sprucing up, its creaky charm is fine for a couple of nights. Themed for infamous local characters, rooms start at $60 with bathrooms down the hall. Be sure to get a drink at the rooftop bar, which has 360-degree views of Yamhill County. 310 NE Evans St, McMinnville; 503-472-8427; mcmenamins.com

Craving more luxury—or a private bathroom? Opt for the new Inn at Red Hills in Dundee. Conveniently located above the Farm to Fork restaurant, all 20 rooms come with flat-screen TVs and high-thread-count sheets. 1410 N Hwy 99, Dundee; 503-538-7666; farmtoforkdundee.com; queens from $99

Taste

If you’re staying at Hotel Oregon, stop off at R. Stuart & Co Wine Bar, a chic boîte where locals linger over wine flights while listening to Django Reinhardt. Rob Stuart, formerly the winemaker at Erath, is known for his pinot noir, pinot gris, and an unusual bubbly made from pinot and chardonnay. 528 NE Third St, McMinnville; 503-472-4477; rstuartandco.com

Eat

Nick Peirano opened Nick’s Italian Café in 1977, and 30 years later his daughter Carmen and her husband, Eric Ferguson, took over the kitchen of what had become a Willamette Valley institution. They kept the menu’s old standbys (Dungeness crab lasagna and spinach-and-pork ravioli) while adding inexpensive new items like pizza ($12) and a daily antipasti and pasta menu. The wine list includes more than 100 Oregon labels, plus numerous Italian vintages, too. 521 NE Third St, McMinnville; 503-434-4471; nicksitaliancafe.com

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SATURDAY

Eat

Step into the bustling Crescent Café for a journey back in time. A white-haired, formally attired maitre d’ leads you to your table, and sunny waitresses jauntily recite the daily specials. Chef and co-owner Danny Wilser bakes five kinds of bread and makes fresh sausages each morning. All eggs are cage-free, and he uses only locally sourced meat, some of it from his own Angus beef. 526 NE Third St, McMinnville; 503-435-2655

Taste

Start at Brooks Wines in the Eola-Amity Hills. Founded in 1998 by Portland native Jimi Brooks, this biodynamic winery is now owned by his 14-year-old son, Pascal, who is apprenticing with winemaker Chris Williams. The shady grove near the tasting room provides the perfect spot for a glass of Ara Riesling, which was served at a 2009 White House dinner. By appointment only; 9360 SE Eola Hills Road, Amity; 503-435-1278; brookswine.com

At Cristom, winemaker Steve Doerner focuses on single-vineyard wines such as the estate pinot gris, a floral viognier, and pinot noirs that Portland Monthly wine critic Condé Cox says are considered to be among the world’s best. Tue-Sun 11-5; 6905 Spring Valley Rd, Salem; 503-375-3068; cristomwines.com; $5 tasting fee

Around the bend, you’ll find the equally renowned St. Innocent, where the tasting room’s burgundy walls and copper bar give it the feel of a stylish café. An avid foodie, winemaker Mark Vlossak offers unpretentious tasting notes, pairing his wines with the ideal meal. Tue-Sun 11-4; 5657 Zena Rd NW, Salem; 503-378-1526; stinnocentwine.com; $5 tasting fee

Founded in 1977 by the Casteel family, Bethel Heights offers a range of estate wines: pinot blanc, chardonnay, and, of course, pinot noir. A leader in sustainable farming, Ted Casteel co-founded LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology), a nonprofit that certifies wineries that adhere to standards for sustainability in both grape growing and wine production. Tue–Sun 11–5, 6060 Bethel Heights Rd, Salem; 503-581-2262; bethelheights.com; $5 tasting fee

Eat

When La Capitale opened two years ago, Salemites rejoiced. At this casual brasserie, chef David Rosales, a veteran of San Francisco’s Chez Panisse and Fonda, focuses on seasonal fare from Willamette Valley farmers and ranchers. Try the McK Ranch burger with heirloom tomato and Oregon cheddar cheese. Entrées are in the $20 range. 508 State St, Salem; 503-585-1975;
lacapitalesalem.com

SUNDAY

Eat

Stop in at the Red Fox Bakery for coffee, croissants, and a handful of sbrisolona (an almond butter cookie). 328 NE Evans St, McMinnville; 503-434-5098

Taste

Evesham Wood produces some of Oregon’s best—and best-value—pinot noirs. The winery’s rosés ($13.50) are a steal, too. Though winemaker Russ Raney is passing the torch, he’s consulting for the next two years, meaning more of his top-flight wines will be available. By appointment only; 3795 Wallace Rd, Salem; 503- 371-8478; eveshamwood.com

Eat

"If I had to pick a taco to go with pinot noir, it would be the goat taco," confesses Jason Lett, of Eyrie Vineyards. He especially likes those at Tacos el Paraiso, which also has a succulent carnitas taco ($1.25), as well as buches (pork stomach) for the more adventurous. 1621 NE Baker St, McMinnville

Ask a Guru

Tue, 14 Sep 2010 15:00:00 -0700

Let’s Get Closure

In the early 2000s, New Zealand winemakers put a stop to the musty-tasting problem of cork taint by sealing their bottles with screw tops. In the decade since, the twist-off has become more common stateside, too. But disagreement about alternative closures still abounds.

Convinced that red wines age just as well with screw caps, Terry Brandborg at Brandborg Vineyard & Winery in the Umpqua Valley is phasing out corks entirely. Stewart Boedecker (above) at Boedecker Cellars has been using screw caps since his first vintage and says the tannin and acid structure of his ’03 pinots are softening just as they would under a cork finish. The only difference is that the fruit is more youthful and vibrant (perhaps because less oxygen can enter the bottle with a screw cap.)

However, Steve Lutz at Lenné says that cork quality has improved in recent years and as a result, the number of “corked” bottles is nearly neglible—at least in his experience. “I’ve only had nine corked wines in six years,” says Lutz, who uses one of the most expensive corks on the market. Like many wine drinkers, Lutz is also a firm believer in the tradition and ceremony of opening a bottle of wine the old-fashioned way—with a corkscrew.

Deep Roots

In 2003, John Paul Cameron from Cameron and Russ Raney from Evesham Wood formed a group of winemakers committed to growing grapes by dry-farming—without any irrigation. Called the Deep Roots Coalition (DRC), it now contains a dozen members, including Brick House, Beaux Freres, J. Christopher, and, recently, Evening Lands.

Is dry farming common in Europe?
Absolutely. If you put in irrigation, you can lose your appellation [the official designation of locale]. Once you’ve done away with one of the most important elements of terroir—precipitation—the wine has no place of origin. Even a place like the Douro (where they get 10 inches of rain a year) is dry-farmed.

How does dry farming change the fruit—and the taste of the wine?
Irrigated fruit tends to have more sugar in them—which is why I think alcohol levels have risen over the past 30 years. It’s [also] economics. If you irrigate, you can get your vines in full production by four years.

Why did you start the DRC?
We want to influence people. Grapevines have evolved, with man’s help, to send their roots way, way down into the soil. They don’t need to be watered! All the original vineyards of the Willamette Valley—Eyrie, Erath, Ponzi—were dry-farmed. It wasn’t until sometime in the early ’90s that irrigation was introduced here.

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The New Terroir

Alexandrine Roy is a fourth-generation winemaker at Domaine Marc Roy, located in France’s Burgundy region. She joined the family winery full-time in 2003. Three years ago, she became a consulting winemaker at Phelps Creek in Hood River, where she puts her mark on seven to nine barrels each fall.

What drew you to making wine in the Columbia River Gorge?
I love the elevation and the fact that the Columbia River is close, bringing some freshness and moisture.

What is the difference between Burgundian vs. Oregon pinot noir?
In general Burgundy pinot is more classic—that is to say less explosive at the front. Why? Our constant rainfall year-round in Burgundy ripens the grapes more easily. Also, French winemakers tend to emphasize vinegrowing instead of winemaking. At Phelps Creek, I am trying to produce Oregon wine by taking this newer vine fruit and employing classic techniques such as using native yeasts.

How does the terroir here differ from your estate in Gevrey-Chambertin?
Burgundian soils are very old, poor clay-limestone with a lot of rocks and gentle slopes, whereas Oregonian soils are young, fertile, and mostly volcanic.

What is the most important thing about wine?
Making wine is a continuation of work in the vineyards. Keep it as natural as possible. Terroir says it all.

Taste of the Wild

Ever since Dayton’s Joel Palmer House opened in 1997, it has lured gastronomes from far and wide for its wild mushroom–themed fare, from Heidi’s three-mushroom tart to a tantalizing candy cap mushroom crème brûlée. We asked chef Christopher Czarnecki for the lowdown on Oregon’s wild mushroom bounty.

Where do you find your mushrooms?
Chanterelles are at the coast—as are coral, morels, and lobster mushrooms—all within a 20-mile range of Lincoln City. We get porcini up in the mountains, outside of Sisters. Morels are temperamental—they don’t come back in the same spots year after year.

What’s your favorite ’shroom?
Matsutake. They’ve got a unique flavor and aroma. The texture is like abalone: really firm. But they’re a pain to clean.

There’s no maitake on your menu. How come?
We don’t use shiitake or enoki very often, either, because they’re cultivated and don’t usually have the character of wild mushrooms.

What type of wine goes best with mushrooms?
The wild mushroom/pinot combination is a match made in heaven. The earthiness from the mushrooms and the wine brings forth the fruit. Our wine list has over 500 Oregon pinots on it.

The Budget Oenophile

Amalie Roberts, owner of the intimate Kir Wine Bar in Northeast Portland, is known for her eclectic taste in affordable wines. We asked her how to find value in Oregon’s traditionally pricey wine market.

Is it getting easier to find bargain Oregon wines?
There is a new trend here toward lower-priced, entry-level wines, which is positive as long as we don’t lose the taste profiles that make us “Oregon.”

What characteristics do you expect from great, inexpensive wines?
Purity of fruit, qualities of the varietal, and a sense of place. I love Patricia Green Cellars’ ‘Dollar Bills Only’ pinot noir ($17) and the Commuter Cuvée pinot from Grochau Cellars ($15).

Where do you find the best value?
Whites and rosés. Matt Berson of Love & Squalor—he’s a winemaker to watch—makes an excellent pure Riesling for $18. I like Matello’s pinot rosé ($15) and J. Christopher’s ‘Cristo Irresisto’ (a show-stopper at $12).

What are the best places in Portland to drink value wines?
I’m a huge supporter of Bar Avignon, Southpark, and Vino Paradiso for knowledgeably selected and reasonably priced local wines.

For the Pioneering Palate

Tue, 14 Sep 2010 14:00:00 -0700

Image: Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards

Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards

Less famous than Willamette Valley wines, the Umpqua and Rogue valleys’ vintages have been earning points with warmer-climate grapes such as tempranillo, malbec, and even gewürztraminer. The trip to taste them may take longer, but there’s the added reward of the scenery—grassy knolls, wheat fields, and picturesque farms, complete with red barns—even from I-5.

FRIDAY

Taste

Leave Portland by early afternoon, and you can be sipping your first Umpqua Valley wine before 5 at Brandborg, where Terry and Sue Brandborg specialize in pinot noir at the valley’s northernmost tip. But with their vineyards located just 45 minutes from the coast, the cooler microclimate results in very different versions from the Willamette Valley. Not-to-be-missed tastes include the Scarlet Cuvée, a dry rosé made from pinot noir grapes that’s only available on-site, and the ’07 gewürztraminer, which New York Times critic Eric Asimov recently singled out for its “rich, floral” taste. 11–5 daily; 345 First St, Elkton; 541-584-2870; brandborgwine.com; no fee for two pours; $5 for five

In 2005, Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards became the first US winery to produce the Austrian varietal Grüner Veltliner. Four years later, they had it perfected: their 2009 reserve won the silver award at both the Monterey Wine Competition and the San Diego International Wine Competition. You can snag a taste—and hors d’oeuvres like chicken flautas, avocado crostini with chevre, and manchego with fig jam—in their barrel cave. Tue–Sat 10–5; 960 Cal Henry Rd; 541-459-6060; reustlevineyards.com; $10 tasting fee

Check In

Located 30 miles east of Roseburg in the Umpqua National Forest, the quirky Steamboat Inn is worth the drive for its idyllic setting and fantastic family-style supper ($50 per person). A motley collection of streamside cabins, forest cottages, and three-bedroom houses, the inn also has a library (where hors d’oeuvres and wine are served) and a grassy terrace. 42705 N Umpqua Hwy, Steamboat; 541-498-2230; thesteamboatinn.com; streamside cabins from $175

Closer to Roseburg (and to wine country) is the CH Bailey House, a 1905 farmhouse that Jay and Sherry Couron converted into an upscale four-room bed-and-breakfast three years ago. In addition to a full breakfast, the Courons serve complimentary local wines—Abacela, Brandborg, and Henry Estate—as well as Eugene’s Ninkasi beer. Guests can do their stargazing from the hot tub out back. 121 Melton Rd, Roseburg; 541-672-1500; chbaileyhouse.com; doubles from $125

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Image: Francis Eatherington

Mott Trail

SATURDAY

Do

Before you check out of the Steamboat, take the short walk over to the Mott Trailhead, part of the 79-mile North Umpqua Trail. The Mott segment (5.5 miles round-trip) will take you through old-growth forest and past the silky green Umpqua River, which is often teeming with steelhead and chinook salmon—and fly-fishermen.

Eat

Portland’s foodie tide hasn’t quite washed over Roseburg. However, Mark V Bar and Grill is a strong early wave. In addition to salads, hearty sandwiches (the Reuben, in particular, is a hit), and pastas, there’s an eclectic tapas menu that includes everything from sautéed mussels and prawns to spicy kimchi. 563 SE Main St; 541-229-6275

Taste

After diligently researching how to grow high-quality tempranillo grapes, Earl and Hilda Jones settled upon 500 acres in Southern Oregon, an area climatically similar to Spain’s Rioja region. The result is Abacela and a full-bodied, award-winning tempranillo, plus several other wines from estate-grown vineyards, including the malbec, the viognier, and the albariño. 11-5 daily; 12500 Lookingglass Rd, Roseburg; 541-679-6642; abacela.com; no fee for three pours; $5 for five

Image: Dasja Dolan

Cayenne caramels at Lillie Belle Farms

At Spangler, just a few miles south, you can enjoy rich, Old World–style cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and malbec. Winemaker Pat Spangler uses minimal sulfites and proudly dry-farms his 40-year-old estate vineyards of syrah and cabernet sauvignon. He also makes a refreshing unoaked chardonnay and a honeysuckle-scented viognier. 11-5 daily; 491 Winery Ln, Roseburg; 541-679-9654; spanglervineyards.com; no fee for three pours; $5 for a reserve flight

Eat

Cheese lovers will want to make a pit stop at the Rogue Creamery—part factory, part shop, all deliciousness. Manager Tom Van Voorhees will lead you through a tasting of the chocolate-stout cheddar and the natural-rinded Caveman Blue as you watch cheese artisans hand-rack and stir the curds. Sat 9–6, Sun 11–5; 311 N Front St/Hwy 99, Central Point; 866-396-4704; roguecreamery.com

Next door, enjoy the truffle-making at Lillie Belle Farms. Goodies here range from a dark chocolate Maker’s Mark bonbon to a single-origin ganache from Madagascar. Sat 9-6, Sun 11-5; 211 N Front St; 541-664-2815

Image: Lillie Belle Farms

Coriander-crusted filet mignon at Nunan Estate’s carriage house restaurant

Check In

In 1892, Jeremiah Nunan ordered a stately Queen Anne Victorian house from a Sears catalog. Cost: $7,000. Today, the elegantly appointed Nunan Estate is a lovely, eight-room bed-and-breakfast. Five rooms—including the crimson-hued Peacock Parlor—are located in the main house, and three spacious ones are in the carriage house, above the inn’s excellent restaurant. 635 N Oregon St, Jacksonville; 541-899-1890; nunanestate.com; doubles from $85

Eat

The Umpqua Valley will leave many impressions on a visitor, but few more indelible than a meal by chef Tim Keller at the Nunan Estate’s Carriage House Restaurant. Try the melt-in-your mouth black cod, sautéed with a sweet-chile hoisin sauce and topped with sesame seeds, fish roe, and snow peas.

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Image: Michael D. Davis - Heart to Art

Roxyann

SUNDAY

Do

Before breakfast at Nunan Estate, saunter over to the Panorama Point Trail, an easy one-third-mile loop with views of the Siskiyou and Cascade mountains. Closer to the Nunan is the town’s sprawling 21-acre pioneer cemetery. Download audio tours for each walk at the chamber of commerce’s website, jacksonvilleoregon.org/audiosite.

Taste

You can’t leave the Rogue Valley before sampling the wines at RoxyAnn, particularly the intense claret, the winery’s claim to fame. Housed in a historic barn, the tasting room doubles as a high-end grocery store with freshly baked baguettes, local cheeses, and other picnic provisions. Friday nights, there’s live music in the garden. 3285 Hillcrest Rd, Medford; 541-776-2315; roxyann.com; $3 tasting fee

Eat

Newly expanded, the cult restaurant New Sammy’s Cowboy Bistro now serves lunch as well as dinner. The food is as sublime as it’s always been—from sourdough bread to a salad topped with broccoli, potatoes, a farm egg, and grilled organic chicken to the Umpqua Valley lamb meatballs with spinach, shiitakes, and orzo. And trust us, you’ll enjoy wading through the 135-page list of eclectic European wines. Wed–Sun; 2210 S Pacific Hwy, Talent; 541-535-2779

For the Active Traveler

Tue, 14 Sep 2010 14:00:00 -0700

Image: Cheryl Hill

Catherine Creek Trail

Great wine regions can be found across the world, but none quite like the Columbia River Gorge. Where else can you pair a delicate viognier or an earthy zinfandel with some of globe’s best windsurfing, hiking, river rafting, and biking? If your every weekend—even one spent tasting wines—needs action, head east, not south.

FRIDAY

Eat

Fill your picnic basket in Hood River with bread from Knead (102 Fifth St) and cheeses and snacks from South Bank Kitchen (404 Oak St; 541-386-9876). Our favorites? Emmi’s cave-aged gruyère and inspired sides such as beet salad dressed with mandarin oranges, fennel, and chevre.

Taste

You can’t taste this region’s wines without crossing the Columbia into Washington for Rhône-style pours at Syncline Winery. James and Poppie Mantone have one acre of vineyards on their property and 24 in eastern Washington’s Horse Heaven Hill and Columbia River Gorge AVAs; they produce 5,000 cases a year of mostly Rhône varietals, such as mourvèdre, roussanne, and viognier. Thur–Sun 11–6; 111 Balch Rd, Lyle; 509-365-4361; synclinewine.com

Do

Not far from Syncline, the moderate one-and-a-quarter-mile hike to the top of Catherine Creek brings you to a superlative picnic spot. (Keep an eye out for poison oak.) The views of the Gorge, Oregon’s lush northern edge, and Mound Hood’s majestic peak are jaw-dropping. www.fs.fed.us

Eat

Have dinner at Nora’s Table in Hood River. The eclectic, highly localized menu offers dozens of small plates as well as entrées (like Goan seafood curry with rockfish, prawns, scallops, and mussels) all dreamed up by Nathan Morgan, former chef of Portland’s popular Indian restaurant Vindalho. Tue–Sat; 110 Fifth St, Hood River; 541-387-4000; norastable.com

Check In

The stylishly updated Celilo Inn sits on a bluff above The Dalles with commanding views of one of the planet’s most dramatic meetings of man and nature: the Gorge and the gargantuan Dalles Dam. Ask about the Spirit of Adventure package, which includes a one-night stay and a white-water rafting trip down the Deschutes or White Salmon river. 3550 E Second St, The Dalles; 541-769-0001; celiloinn.com

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SATURDAY

Do

Ready for an adrenaline rush? Raft down an eight-mile stretch of the White Salmon River with Zoller’s Outdoor Odysseys. In the fall, the White Salmon is Class III—which means it moves fast but "there’s no huge, wipe-me-out waves," says owner Mark Zoller. As you careen down the picturesque canyon, you’ll pass a 14-foot waterfall, western red cedars growing straight out of lava walls, and plenty of wildlife. 1248 Hwy 141, White Salmon, Wash; 800-366-2004; zooraft.com; $55–65 per person

Taste

Wy’East Vineyards is named after the Multnomah Indians’ word for Mount Hood, which dominates the skyline. Here, Christie Reed will lead you through a tasting that begins with pinot gris and ends with the Cloud Cap Select, a port-style dessert wine. Winemaker Peter Rosback also produces a stunning cabernet sauvignon. 3189 Hwy 35, Hood River; 541-386-1277; wyeastvineyards.com; $5 tasting fee

Try local vintages from 35 Columbia Gorge wineries side by side at the Gorge White House. The fruit stand out back sells local Anjou and Bosc pears, cheeses, and pear wine. Fri-Mon 10-6; 2265 Hwy 35, Hood River; 541-386-2828; thegorgewhitehouse.com; $1 tastes; $6 glasses

Eat

At Hood River’s Celilo Restaurant and Bar, chef Ben Stenn relies on a network of farmers, foragers, and fishermen for dishes such as seared sea scallops over spinach cream purée and seared salmon served on a bed of winter greens with fresh thyme and a brandied huckleberry glaze. 16 Oak St, Hood River; 541-386-5710; celilorestaurant.com

SUNDAY

Do

Rent a hybrid at Discover Bikes and take a spin down the Mosier Twin Tunnels Trail, a now-car-free nine-mile segment of the original Columbia Gorge Highway with unmarred vistas of the Gorge. 210 State St, Hood River; 541-386-4820; $25 for the day; visit oregonstateparks.org for more info

Taste

Take a deep sip of a full-bodied zinfandel made from the pre-Prohibition-era vineyard at the Pines 1852. Owner Lonnie Wright (or his charming daughter, Sierra) will tell you how he came to buy a vineyard first planted in the 1890s by an Italian stonemason. Wed-Sun; 202 State St, Hood River; 541-993-8301; thepinesvineyard.com

For the Foodie

Tue, 14 Sep 2010 14:00:00 -0700

Image: Thistle

Thistle

Some of the finest pinot noir vineyards in the world are perched on the rolling hills of the northern Willamette Valley. But the volcanic and marine soil is ideal for growing more than just grapes. Chefs here have long channeled the spirit of Oregon native James Beard by drawing inspiration from what grows in their own backyards.

FRIDAY

Check In

The Brookside Inn has variously been a sawmill, a pot farm, and a Christian retreat center. The latest owners, Bruce and Susan Bandstra, transformed it into an enchanting nine-room country inn on 22 shaded acres that include lush gardens (edible and floral), a fire pit for roasting s’mores, and a picturesque pond full of rainbow trout and bass. (Fly-fishing encouraged.) Serious foodies themselves, the Bandstras also throw wine dinners with guest chefs from the likes of Seattle’s Crush and Portland’s Navarre. (Check the inn’s website for info.) 8243 NE Abbey Rd, Carlton; 503-852-4433; brooksideinn-oregon.com

Taste

A few miles north of the inn stands one of the valley’s sustainable-winemaking pioneers, Lemelson Vineyards. A Lewis & Clark grad in environmental law, owner Eric Lemelson oversees organically certified vineyards and uses gravity instead of pumps to move the wine from fermenter to barrel. Thu–Mon 11–4; 12020 NE Stag Hollow Rd, Carlton; 503-852-6619; lemelsonvineyards.com

Tony Soter, the former winemaker for Etude in Napa, serves some of the valley’s best pinots at the end of an unmarked gravel road. The modernist tasting room at Soter Vineyards also offers sweeping views of the Willamette Valley. By appointment only; 10880 NE Mineral Springs Rd, Carlton; 503-662-5600; sotervineyards.com; $20 tasting fee refundable with purchase

There’s no fancy tasting room at Belle Pente, but it would be a travesty to miss winemaker Brian O’Donnell’s earthy Murto Reserve pinot or his 2007 single-vineyard Estate Reserve pinot. O’Donnell and his wife, Jill, farm biodynamically, treating the soil not as dirt but as a living organism. By appointment only; 12470 NE Rowland Rd, Carlton; 503-852-9500; bellepente.com

Eat

Thistle chef Eric Bechard sources nearly everything within a 45-mile radius for a daily menu of delicacies such as light-as-air gnocchi served with fava beans, tomatoes, and shavings of sheep’s milk cheese, or albacore tuna with lobster mushrooms and peas in a crayfish broth. The bar next door serves pre-Prohibition concoctions such as the Martinez (gin, dry vermouth, Cointreau, and orange bitters). 228 N Evans St, McMinnville; 503-472-9623; thistlerestaurant.com

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SATURDAY

Eat

The Brookside Inn’s breakfast comes in stages (bring a book): strong coffee from Seattle’s Fonté Coffee Roaster and fresh blueberry scones; yogurt and buttery housemade granola with filberts, pine nuts, and, if in season, just-picked marionberries. If you haven’t been judicious, you might not have room for Bruce’s “wet” scrambled eggs with truffle salt and lardons.

Taste

At age 39, Adelsheim Vineyard is one of Oregon’s oldest wineries, with one of the valley’s newest tasting rooms. Tour the barrel caves, fermentation area, and press rooms. 11–4 daily; 16800 NE Calkins Ln, Newberg; 503-538-3652; adelsheim.com; $15 for five pours; $40 tour includes tastings

Down the lane is Bergström Wines, one of the valley’s first biodynamic wineries. Trained in Burgundy, Josh Bergström makes famously big-bodied pinots like the Cumberland Reserve but also classically structured chardonnays. Look for November’s “Epicurean Experience” lunches ($45–65). 10–4 daily; 18215 NE Calkins Ln, Newberg; 503-554-0468; bergstromwines.com; $15 tasting fee

Eat

Grab a fresh baguette sandwich at the Filling Station Deli in Carlton (305 W Main St, 503-852-6687), and drive to Lenné, just seven miles northeast (off Hwy 240). Winemaker Steve Lutz invites you to picnic on his front porch, provided you also taste. Try the pinots and you’ll know why the prime minister of Spain is a huge fan. Thu–Sun noon–5; 18760 NE Laughlin Rd, Yamhill; 503-956-2256; lenneestate.com; $5 tasting fee refundable with purchase

Do

Kookoolan Farms is locally renowned for its vegetable CSA, creamy raw milk, and pasture-raised chicken. The farm also offers three-hour classes on truffle-making, humane chicken butchery (BYOClucker), and cheesemaking. 15713 Hwy 47, Yamhill; 503-730-7535; kookoolanfarms.com

Eat

Long a haunt of local winemakers, Red Hills Provincial Dining remains one of the valley’s top eateries. Richard and Nancy Gehrts serve meals like buttery Dungeness crab cakes with a mirepoix of vegetables, or a tender, flavorful halibut accompanied by a roasted-tomato ratatouille. Try a bottle of Gehrts Vineyard pinot, made by cult winemaker John Paul Cameron. 276 Hwy 99W, Dundee; 503-538-8224; redhills-dining.com

SUNDAY

Taste

With its clerestory windows and views of mounts Hood and Jefferson, Penner-Ash Wine Cellars has one of the valley’s most striking tasting rooms. Try a $5 flight of viognier, pinot, syrah, and rubeo (an unusual blend of 70 percent pinot, 30 percent syrah that’s fantastic with barbecue), or do the pinot flight ($15). Wed–Sun 11–5; 15771 NE Ribbon Ridge Rd, Newberg; 503-554-5545; pennerash.com

For the Newcomer

Tue, 14 Sep 2010 13:00:00 -0700

Image: Jason Tomczak

Argyle Winery

Less than an hour from Portland, the state’s most celebrated wine country is so close it’s easy to put off visiting for another day. For newcomers—and procrastinators—here’s what should be on every Willamette Valley virgin’s shortlist.

FRIDAY

Image: Allison Inn & Spa

Allison Inn & Spa

Check In

The exquisite Allison Inn & Spa is not just for Napa Valley-spoiled Californians or jet-setting oenophiles; it’s the ideal getaway for Portlanders in need of some pampering. The rooms have a spare, Japan-meets-Northwest aesthetic. There’s an indoor pool and a Jacuzzi, a lavish spa, and a mile-long trail around the property for moonlit walks. Add impeccable service and a terroir-focused restaurant, and you’ll see why the Allison is in a class of its own. 2525 Allison Lane, Newberg; ?503-554-2525; theallison.com; doubles from $295

Taste

Pioneering winemaker David Lett planted Oregon’s first commercial pinot noir vineyard in the Dundee Hills in 1966. His son Jason Lett continues the legacy of the family’s Eyrie Vineyards with exemplary pinots and chardonnays plus his own Melon de Bourgogne (the grape used in Muscadet) made from the property’s oldest vines. Jason Lett’s ingenious re-engineering of a Swiss hand-bottling machine called the Elva makes rare library wines such as an ’87 chardonnay and an ’88 Pinot Reserve available by the pour ($15 for a six-flight library tasting). 935 NE 10th Ave, McMinnville; Wed–Sun noon–5; 503-472-6315; ?eyrievineyards.com; $5 for four pours

Eat

Don’t let the understated exterior of Tina’s fool you. Opened by Tina and David Bergen 19 years ago, Tina’s serves some of the valley’s most sophisticated food. Locals and visitors alike come for inspired dishes made from regional, organic ingredients, such as the panfried Willapa Bay oysters served with sorrel mayo or a buttery risotto studded with crispy pancetta and wild mushrooms. 760 Hwy 99W, Dundee; 503-538-8880

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Image: Kevin Bell

Domaine Drouhin Oregon

SATURDAY

Taste

Start your day at Rex Hill, now under the direction of winemaker Sam Tannahill. On Fridays and Saturdays, the "family brands" tasting ($10) includes Rex Hill wines as well as the winemaker’s more exclusive label, Francis Tannahill (made with his wife, Cheryl Francis), and CEO Bill Hatcher’s illustrious pinot. Learn winemaking basics with a Harvest Tour ($45 per person; every Saturday in October) that takes you through the cellar for a taste of macerating fruit and a glimpse of new ferments. 10-5 daily; 30835 N Hwy 99W, Newberg; 503-538-0666; rexhill.com

Before lunch, swing by Argyle Winery in Dundee for this classic Oregon label’s annual October release of 10-year-old premiere sparkling wine. 11–5 daily; 691 Hwy 99W; 503-538-8520; argylewinery.com; $10 for a flight of five; $2.50–3 for a one-ounce taste

Eat

A new locavore restaurant helmed by chef Shiloh Ficek, Farm to Fork is a dynamic addition to Dundee. Try the impressive tapenade-chevre baguette with arugula and radishes and a croque-monsieur with cave-aged gruyère. But the real standout is the juicy ground-chuck burger sourced from Cascadia Farms. (For picnics, the in-house deli will fill your basket with local cheeses, charcuterie, and fresh baguettes.) 1410 N Hwy 99W, Dundee; 503-538-7970; farmtoforkdundee.com

Do

Time for a nap—or a trip to the Allison Spa. The signature treatment is, of course, the Grapeseed Cure. After you’ve been exfoliated with a crushed-grapeseed scrub (harvested from the Allison’s own vineyard) and slathered with a honey-and-wine concoction, your therapist will massage you with shea butter and swaddle you in hot towels. $170 for a 90-minute treatment

Eat

The Allison’s superb restaurant, Jory, features a rotating menu of mostly locally sourced fish and meat, plus produce from the inn’s half-acre garden. Try the duck pastrami with roasted quince followed by the Carlton Farms pork chop with cardoon gratin, wilted black kale, and maple poached cranberries. You can order a one-ounce taste of any of the by-the-glass wines or, if you’re not tired of tasting, a flight of pinot or chardonnay.

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SUNDAY

Taste

Just southwest of Newberg, the Dundee Hills are known for a volcanic basalt soil that’s ideal for pinot noir—and for an extraordinary trio of women winemakers.

A fourth-generation French winemaker from the respected Drouhin family in Burgundy, Véronique Drouhin opened one of the valley’s most revered wineries, Domaine Drouhin Oregon, in 1987. Sip from a flight that includes an estate-grown chardonnay and a spicy, full-bodied Laurène pinot, while toasting the tasting room’s unmarred vistas of Mount Hood. Wed–Sun 11–4; 6750 NE Breyman Orchards Rd, Dayton; 503-864-2700; domainedrouhin.com; $10 for a flight

At De Ponte Cellars, Drouhin’s former assistant and best pal Isabelle Dutarte makes just 3,000 cases a year. Some of her exceptional wines—like the DFB Estate Melon (a Muscadet)—are sold only in the tasting room. 11–5 daily; 17545 Archery Summit Rd, Dayton; 503-864-3698; depontecellars.com; $15 for a flight of five

Next door to De Ponte at Archery Summit, Anna Matzinger makes 100 percent estate-grown wines from some of the older vines in the Dundee Hills. Call ahead to tour the subterranean, basalt caves lined with French oak barrels. Tours include tastes of several bottles of single-vineyard pinot plus a history lesson on Oregon’s wine industry. 10–4 daily; 18599 NE Archery Summit Rd, Dayton; 503-864-4300; $15 for a flight of four, $25 per person for tour