19. Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area
This promontory is a standard stop for tourists, who trundle out of their vehicles by the thousands to shoot photos of the coast’s tallest lighthouse. But most overlook Yaquina Head’s best feature—the beach of slick black cobblestones that rings the misty inlet. To reach this Martian shore of ancient basalt, walk down the paved trail on the south side of the lighthouse. Where the pavement ends, step onto the clacking, rolling stones. Have a seat. Then close your eyes and listen to the ocean as you’ve never heard it, hissing and ticking as the surge washes in and then retreats across the rocks. When you open your eyes, don’t be surprised to see a harbor seal, bobbing in the surf and staring back at you, wondering why on earth you’re wearing that silly grin. $5 day-use fee; 541-574-3100; www.blm.gov/or/resources/recreation/yaquina
20. Waldport Seafood Company
When you see steam ushering from this humble red-painted shack overlooking Alsea Bay, it means the crab-cooker is aboil—your cue to pull over and sidle up to the counter for a fresh Dungeness crab cocktail; superb beer-battered fish and chips; or the exceptional, rich clam chowder, made fresh every day using the same chowder recipe they’ve used for as long as anyone here can remember. You’ll find no shortage of fancier chowders along the coast, as well as more aggressively marketed “world famous” ones, but none so perfectly enjoyable as this: rich and creamy with just the right balance of bacon, celery, and fresh ocean air drifting in off the bay. 310 SW Arrow St, Waldport; 541-563-4107
21. Preacher’s Cave
Named for Franz Edmund Creffield, the notorious early 20th-century minister (who had a penchant for public nudity), this cave is one of the oddest unmarked historical sites in the state. In 1906, Creffield convinced some 25 followers to seek “a new Eden” with him; then he instructed them to wait in a dank cave while he ran an errand (i.e., fleeing armed pursuers, one of whom gunned him down in Seattle). The cave is a far cry from Eden now, tagged as it is with graffiti, but you can still find it at low tide, if you’re willing to brave the rather precipitous terrain. Park at the pullout south of Neptune Park. Turn left after you step into the trees and walk down the steep sand slope. The cave is around the corner to the left.