bridges-loess_vineyard

The Loess vineyard at Leonetti,
one of the wineries that led the Walla Walla renaissance in the 1970s.

The exposed brick walls. oversized mirror and chocolate-brown décor inside Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen, a tiny storefront restaurant housed in the space of a departed art gallery, create an atmosphere at once contemporary and homey, a mood that matches the cuisine. Chef Chris Ainsworth, a 32-year-old graduate of New York’s French Culinary Institute, and his wife, Island, just opened the restaurant in May; now he spends his evenings feverishly preparing tapas for the dinner rush, including patatas bravas and Saffron’s signature flatbreads, some topped with caramelized fennel, dates and Serrano ham.

My sister, Jamie, and I are seated next to the open kitchen, dining on arancini (Sicilian-style saffron rice balls) and Kobe beef cheeks in a mirepoix marinade spiked with rosemary. Not only do we agree that it’s some of the tenderest, most flavorful beef we have ever tasted, but we rate the entire dining experience as flawless as any we’ve had in Seattle or Portland.

The winemakers in Walla Walla are actually the people pouring the wines.

Yet when we finally leave Saffron, we’re standing on a side street in Walla Walla, whose downtown, in spite of the proliferation of art galleries and boutiques, seems lifted from a 1950s movie set. Home to Whitman College, this city of some 30,000 in southeastern Washington, once known primarily for the sweetness of its onions, is now gaining a serious reputation for its cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. In fact, wine connoisseurs often assert that Walla Walla is destined to become “the next Napa.” That I find a bit hard to believe. Napa is just an hour or two from San Francisco, but Walla Walla is more than four hours from Portland and five hours from Seattle—too far to attract carloads of day-tripping tourists.

That, of course, is one of Walla Walla’s charms. Drive 10 minutes out of town in any direction, and you’ll encounter vistas of Blue Mountains, seas of grains and pastures dotted with cows. The neat, symmetrical rows of grapes don’t dominate the landscape here so much as contribute to an evolving agricultural patchwork. And yet, the vines’ arrival has altered not only the agronomics of the area but also the town itself. It was Walla Walla’s wine-driven renaissance, for example, that lured Saffron’s Ainsworth, a former head chef at Todd English’s Marriott Waterfront Fish Club, from Seattle last year, after he and his wife visited friends who were relishing the slow-paced, country way of life.

Italians who settled here at the turn of the century brought winemaking to the area, but the first commercial, post-Prohibition vineyard on record in Walla Walla was Blue Mountain, founded by the Pesciallo family in 1950. They grew a little-known red Italian varietal called Black Prince, but closed after a few years. Walla Walla winemaking remained a cottage industry until the late 1970s, when local Army buddies Rick Small and Gary Figgins made several trips to Napa to study its booming business and then began transporting grapes from other parts of the state. Today, Small owns Woodward Canyon and Figgins heads up Leonetti Cellars, and both produce wines that regularly fetch 90-plus ratings from the national wine press.

More than 95 licensed wineries now grace the Walla Walla countryside, owing to a location far enough north to receive extended hours of sunlight in summer, far enough east to be spared heavy rains and high enough in elevation to enjoy cooler temperatures at night, which keeps acidity levels in the grapes where they should be. Although most grapes here are cabernet sauvignon (41 percent), merlot (26 percent) and syrah (16 percent), at least 27 different varietals are grown, according to the Walla Walla Wine Alliance, a fact that may reflect the diversity of Walla Walla’s winemakers, who range from eager viticulture students to retirees.

If there’s one thing these oenologists do have in common, it’s an utter lack of the snobbery that can lend a measure of exclusivity to wine-tasting in other regions. “People are always impressed that the winemakers in Walla Walla are actually the people pouring the wines,” says Elizabeth Martin-Calder, director of the Walla Walla Wine Alliance.

But no matter how laid-back the wine industry, wine tourists tend to expect certain amenities, and for years the lack of upscale restaurants hampered tourism’s ability to grow here. Even after Whitehouse-Crawford, the town’s first white-linen restaurant, opened in 2000, the demand for a variety of dining experiences outpaced supply. “There still wasn’t enough healthy, fresh food,” says Daymon Bruck, a 41-year-old former New York advertising executive who opened the restaurant/gourmet shop Luscious by Nature last fall. Housed in a 1920s-era building, the eatery feels like a small-town diner reimagined by Design Within Reach; for brunch it serves omelettes and even pear-sage margaritas, and also stocks picnic staples like salami, bread and cheese.