Meat

 

Chop butchery & charcuterie

735 NW 21st Ave, 503-221-3012

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The Find: Custard-like veal sweetbreads

When Simpatica owners Ben Dyer, Dave Kreifels, and Jason Owens built Laurelhurst Market, their temple to meat, they sold their butcher shop, Viande Meats, to longtime employees Eric Finley and Paula Marcus, who renamed it Chop. Much like a neighborhood butcher shop in Italy or France, Chop features fresh Moulard duck breasts, dry-aged prime rib, veal osso bucco, pork
from hazelnut-fed Sweetbriar Farms pigs, and harder-to-find ingredients like veal stock and caul fat. Chop hand-crafts two dozen types of sausage, a dozen pâtós, and excellent prepared foods like duck confit, choucroute (an Alsatian sauerkraut studded with pork and seasoned with juniper berries), rabbit rillettes with preserved lemon, house-cured guanciale , salami, and salt-cured foie gras. Pleasantly spicy with a punch of garlic, Chop’s house-made andouille sausage evokes Louisiana, and the rich, creamy Burgundian boudin blanc sausage is award-worthy. —MT
Likely to Spot: Vitaly Paley buying juniper salami for the charcuterie platter at Paley’s Place

Edelweiss Sausage and Delicatessen

3119 SE 12th Ave, 503-238-4411 edelweissdeli.com

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The Find: German sausage

With 22 authentic varieties of sausage, Edelweiss is a Germanophile’s dream realized. An enclave for Portland’s German community since the Baier family founded it in 1982, Edelweiss has become one of the city’s busiest meat counters. Nearly every sausage recipe originated on Bavarian soil, and every available meat product has been cured, ground, and cased onsite—from the mild, pleasantly lemony weisswurst and the heady, cayenne-spiked Hungarian links to a dozen types of liverwurst—not to mention headcheese, pastrami, corned beef, and bologna. The cheese selections reflect Europe’s northern reaches: Swiss gruyère; French raclette; Finnish lappy and muenster; and aged Dutch gouda. As you’d expect of any sausage shop, Edelweiss stocks around a dozen types of European mustards, German curry ketchup, pickled herring, imported butter, sauerkraut, and fresh loaves of unctuous dark rye. —MT
Likely to Spot: Beast chef Naomi Pomeroy buying curry ketchup

Gartner’s Country Meat Market

7450 NE Killingsworth St
503-252-7801, gartnersmeats.com

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The Find: Gartner’s Famous Marinade

The recipe for the marinade that dresses Gartner’s top-selling short ribs is known by only a scant few employees of the market. “I’ve been here 26 years,” says general manager Jerry Yost, “and I’m just now finding it out myself.” Opened in 1959 by Jack Gartner, the store is currently run by his daughter, Sheri Gartner Puppo, and Rick Minor, the son of Gartner’s first partner, Jerry Minor. Arguably the city’s largest meat case, Gartner’s is a showcase of protein, ranging from petite smoked bratwursts and cuts of liver to family-size pot roasts, whole smoked turkeys, racks of spareribs, half hogs, front quarters of beef, and whole luau pigs. And for 35 years, Gartner’s sausage maker, Terry Honke, has been creating 50 kinds of authentic German recipes. —Eva Hagberg
Likely to Spot: Loyal clientele who grew up with the store (now, Yost adds, “their kids bring in their kids”)

Laurelhurst Market

3155 E Burnside St, 503-206-3099 laurelhurstmarket.com

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The Find: Piedmontese hanger steak

After earning the love of Northwest Portland with their butcher shop Viande Meats, David Kreifels, Ben Dyer, and Jason Owens moved to the East Side and opened Laurelhurst Market, which has become equally popular. More than a restaurant, the market is hallowed ground for home cooks who want the best meat-based ingredients available in Portland—not to mention expert advice on how to prepare it. Whether you seek a lamb sausage for an authentic cassoulet or a rabbit and pork pâtó studded with pistachios, Laurelhurst Market is the place for meat-eaters with a love of both old-world and modern cooking. —MT
Likely to Spot: Lauro chef de cuisine Jennifer Buehler buying venison pâtó

Olympic Provisions

107 SE Washington St, Ste 132
503-954-3663
olympicprovisions.com

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The Find: Oregon’s first and only USDA-certified salami

Housed in the Olympic Mills Commerce Center, a bright yellow former warehouse that’s recently been revamped, Olympic Provisions is a restaurant and charcuterie shop—the result of a dream-team collaboration between Clyde Common owner Nate Tilden, former Clyde chef Jason Barwikowski, ex-Castagna front man and Swiss-trained sausage expert Elias Cairo, and five other partners. They prepare and sell pâtós, terrines, and rillettes alongside excellent kielbasa and other sausages. Cairo and his crew have also begun the production of hard salamis, including Spanish-style chorizo, Italian coppa , and spicy sopressata. —MT
Likely to Spot: Steve Jones of Cheese Bar (see p. 49), the first local retailer to carry Olympic Provisions products, browsing Olympic’s multiple varieties of Spanish chorizo

Otto’s Sausage Kitchen

4138 SE Woodstock Blvd
503-771-6714, ottossausage.com

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The Find: Old-fashioned German sausage

If this quaint delicatessen feels like a living room, that’s because it is. Since German-born Otto Eichentopf migrated west and erected a Southeast Portland meat market in 1922, Otto’s sausages have been prepared by four generations of Eichentopfs. No matter what the weather, piles of chicken, old-fashioned wieners, and pork sausages are fired year-round on the outdoor grill for neighborhood families who gather around the wooden tables for dogs dipped in Coney Island mustard with homemade sauerkraut and relish. Inside, you’ll find all 40 selections of sausage, house-cured pastrami, and accompaniments like peppered jellies, imported mustards, local honey, European chocolates, and a generous selection of wine and German beers. —KE
Likely to Spot: Pine State Biscuits owners Brian Snyder, Walt Alexander, and Kevin Atchley loading up on Otto’s Cajun andouille sausage