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Kevin Gibson (right) prepares agnolotti (left): little pierogi-like pillows stuffed with fluffy potatoes and torpedo onions and dusted with parmesan.
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Gibson has a way with scallops. Here he slices them thin for crudo drizzled with Meyer lemon olive oil and crunchy sea salt, alongside nutty, tender bunches of mache lettuce.
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Octopus, charred until crisp on the outside and fork-tender on the inside, with frisee lettuce and slivers of picholine olive.
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The standout of the evening: A cabbage roll, bursting with porky flavor mingled with bites of apple and chestnut, like a better soup dumpling. Two rolls come charred, vibrant green, and served over creamy celery root puree.
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Hungarian goulash, a Castagna classic of paprika-spiced, slow braised pork with buttery, crisped spaetzle noodles and a dollop of sour cream.
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Not much has changed since June vacated the space earlier this year. A mix of gray concrete, warm wood and one big garage door accent the minimally decorated 52-seat restaurant.
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