JUST BEFORE they hunkered down for winter after reaching the Pacific in 1805, Meriwether Lewis and William Clark sent a small crew northward on one final expedition: to explore the 28 miles of sand, sedge, and cedar forest known today as the Long Beach Peninsula. This two-mile-wide, sea-tickling finger of land between Willapa Bay and the ocean boasts all the same coastal pleasures as the Oregon shore—forest-and-seascaped ...

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