One day this fall, Mort Bishop III, Pendleton Woolen Mills’ president, sat in the menswear showroom in the company’s Old Town headquarters, a plaid shirt spread out before him like a specimen. At first glance, the shirt was just another sturdy Pendleton product, befitting the Northwest icon’s 147 years under the Bishop clan’s stewardship. But closer scrutiny revealed artful corduroy trim, sleek tailoring, and, inside, not one blue label, ...

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