Cuisines:
Mexican
A member of the Ocean “microrestaurant” project, Uno Mas is little more than a brightly colored taco parlor. But chef Oswaldo Bibiano’s cramped kitchen churns out an impressive lineup singing inside house-pressed corn tortillas. A collection of well-calibrated salsas in every hue of the chile spectrum greets you at a help-yourself station. Tender barbacoa brisket gains extra flavor from avocado leaves and juicy endiablado prawns live up to their devilish billing. The best choices are also the most daring: dark burgundy crumbles of Bibiano’s signature moronga (blood sausage) or charred curls of polpo (octopus) in a magnificence of red chile powder, epazote, and lime. All in all, Uno Mas is a welcome departure from the usual al pastor and carnitas and a rising player in Portland’s Mexican revolution.
Updated 04/24/2013
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