Cuisines:
Mexican
Under the watchful eye of a supersize still of Jane Fonda from 1965’s Cat Ballou, Portlanders dig into Tex-Mex as reimagined by Bunk Sandwich kings Tommy Habetz, Nick Wood, and Matt Brown: an eclectic, big-flavored, high-low approach to tortilla craft. Duck the low-slung wooden beams to discover a land where Velveeta cheese signals an authentic queso or a playful mix of lamb shoulder, goat cheese, and mole lands between flour tortillas. Fifteen-hour brisket crowns multiple dishes, the best of which is a four-inch tortilla smeared with pinto beans, queso, a zippy tomatillo sauce, and piles of the tender beef. The soda-fountain-like bar dispenses a thoughtful tequila selection, but don’t miss the “Side Pipe,” a titanic 16 oz goblet of frozen margarita sporting an upturned Coronita bottle. Two Side Pipes, and it’s time to heed the warning above the spring-loaded rocking horse: “Do not ride Danger Pony.”
Updated 04/17/2013
Sign up for Our Free Email Newsletters
