Roots

$ Pacific Northwest

Chef Brad Root, a graduate of the Heathman, Higgins, and Wildwood, has settled into Camas with a Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired space whose décor includes, yes, actual roots. But you’ll be a convert to the exquisitely elemental quality of Roots’ food: fresh, local ingredients lightly treated and beautifully combined. Regular diners swear by the duck breast with asparagus and kumquats and the brined pork chop, but don’t overlook starters like the artichoke, sweet onion, and fontina tart. The mostly local wine list also stays earthbound, with many choices around $30. Sip from the wide variety of ports and single malts as you savor Meyer lemon pudding cake, and you’ll vow to keep going back to your Roots again and again.

Last updated: 08/23/2012