Editor’s Pick

$$$ Wine Bars/Small Plates


Ración’s recipe for molecular gastronomy made friendly looks like this: a hide-nothing kitchen, a chatty, food-loving staff, and a chorizo-infused margarita crowned in sea salt foam. A wrap-around, 15-seat chef’s counter ensures a peek at the action, and the cooking packs a modernist punch. Malt vinegar powder dresses addictive salt cod chicharróne. Ginger-spiked marshmallows float in almond gazpacho. But highbrow dusts and foams are mostly just playful flourishes for lusty, Spanish-inflected food. As part of the easy vibe, diners are encouraged to split the five-course tasting menu. Or dabble in a small, changing collection of à la carte raciónes, perhaps deep-fried sweetbreads or octopus a la plancha. Show a little interest, and the chefs will gab your ear off. Or contemplate your food and keep to yourself. But where’s the fun in that?

We featured Racion in our guide to Portland's best bars of 2014.

Last updated: 07/31/2013