Editor’s Pick

$$$ Pacific Northwest, American/New American


Nothing about the generic hotel façade off Highway 99 hints at wine country’s most ambitious food gambit. Inside, the big-city gleam of stone, steel, and glass fills a restaurant clad in dark walnut. A 14-foot glass wine cellar, deep in Northwest grapes, anchors the room. A chef’s counter provides the stage for a full battalion of aproned cooks tweezing away at all manner of precious local provenance—studied experiments served on stark white plates. On any given day you might find foie gras caramel or plates decorated with barnacles plucked from seaside cliffs. The drink program impresses, with more than 65 by-the-glass pours, an irreverently annotated wine list, and smart pairings. After all, this is still wine country.

Last updated: 10/15/2012