PaaDee

Editor’s Pick

$$ Thai

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PaaDee means “to bring good things,” and this haven of Thai comfort food does just that. Teak tables lit by birdcage light fixtures invite convivial feasts fueled by classic cocktails gone Thai. While it doesn’t break major ground, the menu invites exploration. Fried fish cakes come with a golden crisp and pleasant spring, sided by a slurp-worthy cucumber relish. Guay tiew kua gai is a pad Thai relative in its happiest form: light, refreshing rice noodles tangled with sprouts, salted radish, Draper Valley chicken, eggs, and romaine hearts. In the “comfort food” category, a simple grilled hanger steak arrives sliced thin, with a spicy tamarind dipping sauce. Crab is given the curry treatment, paired with Chinese celery, onions, and red peppers in a sumptuous dish that walks that elusive line between light and hearty. In the summer, windows fling open and tables spill onto the sidewalk for idyllic happy hours; in the winter, the space transforms into a sexy dining den. And no matter what the season, a warm welcome awaits.

Last updated: 02/20/2013