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If you’re looking for a nice fillet of salmon for your mother, you’re at the wrong place. But for a night of entertaining provocation from a hard-core locavore kitchen crossed with a hunting lodge, serenaded by indie music from an unlikely storefront on SE César E. Chávez Boulevard, step right in to the Kingdom of Roosevelt. Game hunting runs deep in Oregon’s DNA, but Bechard is the first chef to truly take aim at farm-raised versions of the meat as a raison d’être. (Wild animals are off the table, per government regulations.) At most serious Portland restaurants, game is an occasional party guest courtesy of respected local distributor Nicky USA. Bechard’s vision goes beyond the delivery truck. He’s doing the hard work of meadow-to-table himself, sourcing everything from small Oregon ranchers and heritage conservationists. He’s tapping a little-known network, encouraging a new market, and putting the question “what is local?” on the plate.

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