Genoa

Editor’s Pick

$$$$ Italian

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For several decades Genoa wore the crown as Portland’s special-occasion northern Italian destination, the home of evening-length, five-course, fixed-price dinners, complete with indulgent cheeses and the option of a trophy wine. Thirty-plus years and a new owner later, it’s still the only restaurant in the city with no à la carte choices. “Happy hour” here is the midweek exception—the three-course option. Still, this is not your parents’ Genoa. The flavors reach deeper into the Northwest. The likes of beer-braised pork belly now squeals in the antipasti, while apple aioli and huckleberry jus dance among the venison loins and rockfish. But nothing signals Genoa’s reinvention more than the separate vegetarian tasting menu (with fish options), Portland’s most whimsical and ambitious entry in the meat-free dining world. Formality has left the building. Come as you are, in party threads or in jeans. 

Last updated: 08/30/2012