Accanto

$$ American/New American

Logo This airy little Italian café—the casual sibling of white-tablecloth neighbor Genoa—may just be one of the last secrets in Portland’s hype-prone brunch world. And food always tastes better when it feels like your very own brilliant discovery. Still, Accanto’s duck hash needs no such psychological sugarcoating. As visually alluring as it is delicious, with deep greens and oranges punctuating a plateful of glistening goodness, this hash oozes thoughtful technique. The confit duck (slow-cooked in its own fat) dances with caramelized brussels sprouts, potatoes, and roasted squash under a pair of flawlessly poached eggs. Subtly fiery harissa cream pulls it all together, mingling with the egg yolks and introducing the rich shreds of duck to the squash and the nutty, pleasantly bitter brussels sprouts. Eat it with a satisfied smile—you discovered Accanto before the masses did.
Last updated: 01/25/2013