Critic’s Choice

Let’s face it. There are only so many glasses you’re going to purchase. So we asked Jeff Groh (of the Heathman Hotel) to define his four must-haves for a functional wine collection. Here’s what he recommends:

A. A great everyday glass that’s light enough in the hand to feel chic but affordable enough to break without too many tears. Use with cabernets, merlots, white and red Bordeaux, Chianti and zinfandel. ($42 per set of six at Amazon.com)

B. They may not be the top-of-the-line Sommelier series, which are as expensive as they are thin, but these are still glasses worth crying over. Light and delicate in the hand, much like the wines they are meant for. ($15 per stem at Liner & Elsen)

C. This glass won me over with its versatility. Its shape and size will complement ports, sauternes, sherry, Armagnac, Cognac and more. (Liner & Elsen can order a set of six for around $100)

D. Similar to the Bordeaux, but with a wider bowl, allowing the wine to have more surface area in contact with the air. Use with pinot noir, syrah, chardonnay and nebbiolos. ($55 per set of six at Amazon.com)