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Portland Spaces: Handbook

Slice of Life

Consider weight, price, and performance when choosing the best knife

By Jon Hart

More on the Knives

09_april-may_hand_56-57_knives_diagram
Illustration: Jen Davison Wick

GLOBAL 7-INCH HOLLOWGROUND SANTOKU

This is an excellent Japanese style knife. A Santoku blade is similar to that of a cleaver and lends itself to slicing, dicing, and mincing. Global’s seamless construction gives the knife a more contemporary look. $95 at Sur La Table (surlatable.com)

SHUN KEN ONION 8-INCH CHEF’S KNIFE

This undulating Japanese knife is specifically designed to fit the culinary hand. Its unusual, ergonomic shape gives nice heft and balance and creates an excellent rocking action for chopping, but it’s not ideal for small finesse work. $200 at Sur La Table

WÜSTHOF CLASSIC 8-inch CHEF’S KNIFE

Classic workhorses loved by chefs everywhere, Wüsthofs are very well made and have incredibly sharp high-carbon steel blades. The versatile blade’s considerable heft gives the knife a comfortable, balanced feel. $100 at In Good Taste (231 NW 11th Ave, ingoodtastestore.com)

SABATIER 8-INCH CHEF’S KNIFE

What about France? Sabatier (sabatier.com) makes excellent knives that have a more triangular shape than German chef’s knives. This design improves precision but can make chopping more awkward. The carbon steel blade will hold a sharp edge longer than most knives, but it will discolor more easily. $80 at greatfrenchknives.com

KYOCERA 6-INCH CERAMIC CHEF’S KNIFE

Ceramic knives do not require regular sharpening and are best for slicing delicate ingredients with great precision—but they can chip on meat bones or if jarred. This is an ideal second knife: it’s always sharp, but lacks the proper balance for substantial tasks. $90 at Sur La Table

Thanks for reading!

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Comments Speech Bubble

By Kingsley on Jan 21, 2011 at 1:39PM

Wow. That’s is a REALLY nice selection of knives you’ve got going on there. I use the Kershaw Leek series myself, which has a pretty fine edge to it, but, just, wow.

By Daniel on Oct 18, 2011 at 12:47PM

Nice primer on kitchen knives. I agree that they can be easily overlooked, but are extremely important for anyone who actually wants to enjoy cooking. Not only do you want to find a quality kitchen knife (be it German, Japanese or what have you) but you also want to select a sharpener. Good steel will hold an edge but everything dulls eventually. I would recommend a Spyderco Sharpmaker if you want to safely and easily maintain your knives without spending a lot of money on sharpening stones that are difficult to use.

By Dan on Oct 18, 2011 at 12:48PM

And Kingsley, while the Kershaw Leek is a nice knife, I don’t find it particularly practical for kitchen use. Here is a good kershaw leek review that you may enjoy.

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