According to Vitaly Paley, French fries should be fried twice: “once to cook them so they fluff inside and then to get them crispy on the outside.”

Makes about 4-6 servings

INGREDIENTS

12 cups grapeseed or canola oil
3 large russet potatoes, washed, cut lengthwise into ½-inch-thick batons, and placed in a bowl of cold water
Kosher salt to taste

(1) Preheat oven to 300 degrees.
(2) In an 8-quart soup pot, heat oil over medium heat until it reaches 320 degrees on a deep-fat thermometer. Keep thermometer attached to the side of the pot at all times. When oil is at temperature, increase heat to high.
(3) Drain potatoes, pat dry, and drop a third of them into hot oil. The temperature will drop to 300 degrees.
(4) Continue cooking, without disturbing potatoes, until oil heats back to 320 degrees, about 5 minutes.
(5) Remove potatoes with slotted spoon or tongs. Shake lightly over pot to drain excess oil, then place on a baking sheet and keep warm in oven.
(6) Repeat with the rest of potatoes, making sure thermometer reads 320 degrees before dropping each batch in.
(7) Once all potatoes have been fried, combine and fry a second time at 320 degrees, about 3 minutes.
(8) Shake off excess oil, transfer to a large serving bowl, and sprinkle with salt to taste.
(9) Serve immediately with a mixture of 3 tbsp whole-grain mustard and 1 cup aioli on the side.