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Castagna’s house-cured black cod with poached, grilled, pickled, and smoked onions

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In the 17th and 18th centuries, young British up-and-comers often set out on a rite-of-passage excursion called the Grand Tour—a lengthy, immersive pilgrimage to Europe’s cultural capitals—where they gathered knowledge and connections that would help them sharpen England’s geopolitical game. Twenty-nine-year-old chef Matt Lightner, the former sous-chef at the Heathman Restaurant & Bar, had a similar ambition when he made a pilgrimage to the centers of Europe’s culinary avant-garde. Now Portland benefits from his travels.

Courtesy of a program for select chefs developed by the Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade, Lightner dined in dozens of Spain’s top restaurants. He visited pig farms, olive oil plantations, and wineries; he studied in the kitchens of famed Spanish chefs like Juan Mari Arzak, Martin Berasategui, Andoni Luis Aduriz, and Ferran Adrià (whose El Bulli routinely tops lists of the best restaurants in the world).

Lightner worked a 17-month stint at the Michelin-rated San Sebastián eatery Mugaritz, where he rose from unpaid kitchen intern to sous-chef in six months. The next stop was Copenhagen’s Noma, another top European kitchen.

With his return to the Rose City, Lightner is poised to add a new chapter to Castagna’s—and its owner, Monique Siu’s—impact on Portland’s dining scene. The new menu is composed, accessible, affordable, and most of all, delicious.

Take the matsutake mushrooms. Grilled on a thick Spanish-made flat-top called a plancha, the fungi are slightly taut with a caramelized exterior, and are presented with paper-thin slices of raw matsutakes—all served in a broth infused with forest herbs and mushrooms. Unlike most broths, which are raised to boiling point, Lightner’s infusion is prepared sous vide (ingredients are cooked at a low temperature inside of a vacuum-sealed plastic bag), allowing the liquid to absorb the essence of the ingredients without overcooking them. Finished with toasted pine nuts and fresh trout roe, the dish is a gastronomical portrait of place—in this case, the tastes, textures, and smells of the Oregon forest.