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Crumb Trail

We hit the streets and discovered Portland's best chocolate chip cookies

By Benjamin Tepler

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RANDOM ORDER COFFEEHOUSE AND BAKERY At NE Alberta’s favorite coffee spot, celebrated pie bakers also roll out a cookie worth mentioning. While not quite the religious experience that Random Order’s vanilla-salted caramel apple pie is, the kitchen’s nutty multidimensional cookies boast a satisfying almond crunch while oozing two types of superdark cocoa buttons. ($2) 1800 NE Alberta St

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TWO TARTS BAKERY For the true salt freak, this petite cookie turns the meeting of sweet and savory into a pas de deux. two tarts packs a dulcified punch into its mini chocolate chip fleur de sel cookies, with a combination of dark toffee undertones and big, concentrated sprinkles of crunchy sel de guérande that adds yet another layer of depth to this classic. (80¢) 2309 NW Kearney St

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ALMA CHOCOLATE This altar to cocoa, known for its dark chocolate icons painted in edible 23-karat gold and aphrodisiacal bonbons, doesn’t mess around when it comes to chocolate. And that includes the timid little cookies hiding in a corner case, packed with superdark, 74 percent–cacao Dominican chocolate and sporting a buttery, burnished exterior. ($1.25) 140 NE 28th Ave

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TASTY N SONS The hottest brunch spot north of Burnside may be known for its frittatas, hashes, and french toast, but the baked-to-order chocolate chipper will change the way you think about mornings. Get good and comfortable to dive into this plate of amber dough, sprawled out like hardened magma with a warm, gooey core and a cool scoop of vanilla ice cream slowly melting on top. ($5) 3808 N Williams Ave.

View Slideshow » Photo: David Lanthan Reamer

COURIER COFFEE Formerly a bicycle-only delivery service, Courier’s downtown café pedals past the rest with help from pastry whiz kid Leala Humbert. By day, she tastes and tests high-end cocoa for Cacao. By night, she perfects her buttery half-dome wonders in a cramped convection oven by layering 72 percent Arriba cocoa from Ecuador within doughy strata. ($1) 923 SW Oak St

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KEN’S ARTISAN BAKERY Even the most ravenous cookie fiend will find a challenge at Northwest Portland’s go-to spot for rustic French breads and pastries. The Valrhona Chocolate Chunk Cookies are hulking frisbees of chewy dough dotted with superlative hunks of extra-bitter chocolate full of fruity notes. And to make up for the sugar haze that hits after consuming this family-size cookie, Ken’s has the critical crunch to-chew ratio down to a science. ($2.25) 338 NW 21st Ave

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PEARL BAKERY For guilty gluttons—those who can’t help but squeeze the last dollop of raw dough from the Pillsbury tube—this downtown fixture has you covered. The house Chocolate Chunk Cookie is a lofty mound of slightly underbaked dough studded with pecans and a hint of orange zest to cut through the buttery behemoth. ($1.50) 102 NW Ninth Ave

View Slideshow » Photo: David Lanthan Reamer

MEAT CHEESE BREAD We hoped we’d hit the jackpot when we spotted jars of fresh cookies at this killer Buckman sandwich shop, and indeed, these nut-filled confections prove every bit as satisfying as their sandwich counterparts. The crumbling waves of blond and brown dough, tumbled with buttery pecans and crackling Maldon salt, offer a roller-coaster ride of taste and texture. ($1.95) 1406 SE Stark St

View Slideshow » Photo: David Lanthan Reamer

OUI PRESSE No place serves the back-of-the-bag classic better than this relative newcomer on SE Hawthorne Boulevard. The kitchen specializes in small, homemade batches of perfectly bronzed, buttery-to-the-finish archetypes, and the “afterschool special” of milk and cookies ($2.50) will take the edge off the worst of days. ($1.25) 1740 SE Hawthorne Blvd

TAKING THE GOOEY DIVE into an oven-fresh chocolate chip cookie—warm, rich, buttery—is like transporting yourself in time. These morsels of comfort are the portals through which grandmothers become superhuman in children’s eyes and budding bakers first enter the messy and thrilling world of home cooking. But for all its simplicity and unadorned goodness, the chocolate chip cookie is still the greatest test of a baker’s mettle: how do you improve upon a classic, a pretty damned good recipe for which can be found on any Tollhouse bag?

Answers are as diverse as Portland’s tastes. When asked to name their favorite chocolate chipper of all time, most Portland bakers and loyal tasters responded “my own!” or cited a recipe from the family graveyard. Few agree on what defines chocolate chip perfection, but in the end depth of flavor, quality of ingredients (from the butter to the chocolate), and texture (crispy on the outside and lusciously moist at the epicenter) reign supreme. Size also counts, as do thoughtful touches like toasted 
almonds or a dash of fine sea salt.

In search of that perfect chocolate chip cookie, we took to the streets, testing single-batch bakers and heavy hitters alike. Pour yourself a glass of milk and turn the page for our favorites.

Thanks for reading!

 

Published: September 2011

 

Comments Speech Bubble

By Savorique.com on Sep 16, 2011 at 10:18AM

These cookies remind me of Jacques Torres’ ones in New York. Buttery, soft and crumbly with half melted chocolate pieces.

By Craig on Sep 15, 2011 at 12:09PM

You should try Sterling Cookie’s chocolate chip cookie. They are at the Beaverton Farmer’s Market on Saturdays. It is simply the best I have ever had.

By Kristin on Aug 31, 2011 at 4:48PM

The ChaCha (chocolate chunk rum cookie) from Pambiche is delicious! It’s my favorite chocolate chip cookie. If you haven’t already tried one you must. These sell out quick so be sure to ask for some as soon as you’re seated! We send them to family members for special occasions and now they’re disappointed if we don’t send them.

By Mick39 on Sep 01, 2011 at 6:34PM

I’ve tried Ken’s Artisan Bakery and Pearl Bakery of those listed. My vote goes to Pearl Bakery. Ken’s are good — but a little too big and no nuts. Pearl’s are studded with big pieces of pecans that you can actually taste and they have a great chunky, slightly doughy texture. Big fan of them and for a time I was eating them every week, but have since reformed a bit.

By Rebecca on Sep 28, 2011 at 9:21PM

Try heading up to St Johns and the Cathedral Park Kitchen off North Baltimore by the park. They make a wonderful super choc-olate-y chocolate chip cookie that sells out within hours of baking and they are only a $1.00! Ridiculous!

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