Cellar Notes
By Condé Cox
MUCH HAS BEEN MADE of the outstanding 2008 Oregon pinot noir vintage. And it is darn good, with plenty of ripe red fruit flavors. But such glorification of a single vintage is often unfair, and the primary victim of all the ’08 hype has been its older sibling, the 2007 pinot vintage. It’s wimpy and watered down, say the critics.
What you don’t hear is that, much like the proverbial ugly duckling, the 2007 vintage has matured into a gorgeous swan. Mystical things often happen in wine bottles over time, and here’s a perfect example. Many of 2007’s pinots have “taken on weight” in the last couple of years, gaining structure and blossoming into a wine that’s different but every bit as satisfying as its younger sibling. —Condé Cox
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Cristom 2007 Jessie Vineyard $51 Spicy with red and black cherry flavors, this wine is much bigger and longer than it was when it was first released two years ago. Pair with braised meat, like osso buco. |
Erath 2007 Estate Selection $34 A complex bottle with red cherry flavors and rose-petal scents. Pair with pork or veal. |
Bethel Heights 2007 Casteel Reserve $60 Black raspberry flavors play with plenty of palate persistence, overlaid with a rich, floral tone. It will continue to improve for another three to five years. Pair with beef. |
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Lemelson 2007 Meyer Vineyard $42 Intense, pure flavors of plums and berries shine through in this solidly made wine. Pair with poultry, especially roasted game hen. |
Et Fille 2007 Kalita Vineyard $38 With the flavor of ripe blackberries and the rich scent of dark red roses, this is always one of the valley’s best pinot buys. Pork roast or veal chops do this beauty justice. |
Published: February 2011
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