Cellar Notes
By Condé Cox
WHEN LOOKING for a refreshing wine that pairs well with almost any meal, try , a red wine from the Piedmont region in the northwestern corner of Italy. Slightly tart (from acidity) while also slightly astringent (from tannin), a good nebbiolo seems to draw the saliva from the sides of your cheeks.
The most famous of nebbiolos are known as Barolo—but these wines, while great, often come with a hefty price tag. Barbaresco, named for a nearby municipality in Piedmont, is another version that’s generally just as good but significantly cheaper. When shopping for these tasty wines, also keep an eye out for the “Nebbiolo Langhe,” a more affordable bottling hailing from the larger Tanaro River Valley, which includes the smaller growing regions of Barolo and Barbaresco.
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La Spinetta 2006 Langhe Nebbiolo $19 Pleasantly astringent, with a translucent, ruby red hue, this fine wine value is a great accompaniment for roast beef or goat cheese. |
Vietti 2007 Nebbiolo Perbacco $25 Slightly richer than the Produttori Langhe (above), this wine smells like red roses with a hint of asphalt, and pairs well with grilled meats. |
Poderi Aldo Conterno 2005 Barolo $95 Many collectors consider Aldo Conterno the best winemaker in the region. This richly textured, complex Barolo will last for many years in a cool cellar and should be served with osso buco. |
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Produttori del Barbaresco 2006 Barbaresco DOCG $31 A little lighter in texture but no less complex than a Barolo, this Barbaresco is one of the best buys from the region, and it pairs well with lamb chops. |
Published: April 2011
Nebbiolo is a wonderful and food-friendly varietal. While these are great suggestions, don’t overlook domestic versions. Cana’s Feast Winery, located in Carlton Oregon, produces a fantastic Nebbiolo that tastes a bit of cherry licorice and leather for $30.