Sweet Street

Cellar Notes

TOO OFTEN, American red wines are caricatures of themselves: big in alcohol, big in ripeness, and overextracted—adult beverages reminiscent of Kool-Aid. This is especially true with the “big red wines” like cabernet, syrah, and merlot. Just as we’re tempted to put too much barbecue sauce on a rack of ribs, too much ketchup on french fries, or too much icing on an otherwise perfect pastry, many winemakers just can’t resist the temptation to overstate their case.

There is at least one Northwest winery, thankfully, that has consistently avoided such indulgences. Based in Walla Walla, Washington, Chateau Rollat (rollat.com) produces great wines from the “big” wine grape varieties that are not only restrained, but elegant and complex. No adult-style punch here—just food-friendly, tantalizing wine.

2007 'Sophie'

$29

(50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc) This is perhaps the best wine currently available from Washington, with layer after layer of delicate herbs, and plush plum flavors that linger on the palate. Pair with a baked or roasted leg of lamb.

2006 ‘Edouard’ Cabernet Sauvignon

$62

Light scents of smoke and earth as well as brooding, well-integrated black fruit flavors mark this wine, which needs some time (five years or more) in a cool cellar to reveal its layers of complexity. Pair with grilled rib-eye steaks.

2006 ‘Rollat’ Cabernet Sauvignon

$38

Finely grained tannins distinguish this wine, which is quite elegant for a cabernet. Like the Edouard, the Rollat also needs a couple of years in a cool cellar to mature. Pair with grilled turkey sausages or pork chops.