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Q & A

Portlandia Stylist Wins an Emmy

Local wardrobe stylist Amanda Needham gets a gold statue.

Posted by: Eden Dawn on Sep 14, 2011 at 11:00AM Speech Bubble 2 Comments

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Photo: Courtesy Getty Images

Costume designer Amanda Needham (right) and assistant Nikki Dimitras arrive at The Academy Of Television Arts & Sciences’ Costume Design & Supervision Peer Group 63rd Primetime Emmy Awards Nominee Reception.

Cult members, punk rockers, insane bike messengers, Japanese club kids. These are but a few of the gem characters local wardrobe stylist Amanda Needham has had to conjure up for Portlandia stars Carrie Brownstein and Fred Armisen. The sketch show has multiple characters per episode that leave the costume department in a constant fashion frenzy to develop the visual aesthetic for each. Wardrobe styling is often an unsung hero on a set, but in a sketch type show with mere seconds to get to know the characters, costuming is the quickest visual reference to fill you in on what type of “Portlander” we’re seeing.

Looks like a little organization called the Emmy’s recognized the massive workload in this area too. Costume designer Amanda Needham received a juried Emmy prize last month for their contributions to “styling Portland weird.” We caught up with Needham to ask her a few questions and promise she’ll always be labeled now as “Emmy winning stylist, Amanda Needham.”

Eden Dawn: How did you become the costume designer for the show?

Amanda Needham: Carrie and I worked with each other on Matt McCormick’s film “Somedays are Better Than Others”, and stayed in touch. I knew about Thunderant and really loved what Fred and Carrie were doing with some of the characters. Carrie and I saw each other at SXSW, and she asked me if I would be interested in designing her and Fred’s show.

“Peter and Nance”

E.D: How did you find out you were nominated? Was it a complete surprise?

A.N: Carrie casually told me that the producers submitted Portlandia for an Emmy; this includes camera, art, wardrobe, sound, etc. I didn’t really think about winning an award. iIt went in one ear and out the other. We were shooting Portlandia season 2 and everyone was like “Hey congratulations!” with huge smiles. I was so confused. My sister (Jessica Needham) the make-up artist on the show was like, “Holy s***, did you hear you won Emmy?” I had no idea what she was talking about. Carrie, Fred and the producers knew I won something, but with the Emmy’s there are so many categories and awards that it’s hard to be sure.

Then I got a call the next morning, a woman from the Costume Design Guild called and said “Amanda Needham, I am honored to be the one to tell you that a jury got together watched a series of shows and voted for your work on Portlandia, you won.” I said, “This is great, what did I win?” She said you won an EMMY!” I said, “You mean one of those statues??” She laughed and said YES.

I blacked out!!

E.D: What’s are some of your favorite looks you’ve put together for the show?

A.N: I have a few: Peter and Nance, Kath and Dave and the feminine bookstore. Generally, what ever is the grossest thing ever makes me happiest.

E.D: Have they ever handed you a character you couldn’t figure out how to style?

A.N: Honestly, not really!!

Visit Amanda’s web site at LoveProperStyle.com

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Tags: Q&A, Portlandia, Carrie Brownstein, Styling

Q & A

Sticks & Stones Q & A

Did you know that three guys are making some of the coolest jewelry in town? I did.

Posted by: Eden Dawn on May 18, 2011 at 09:00AM Speech Bubble 0 Comments

A copper plated, two-finger S&S unisex ring.

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I pride myself on being able to pick out designers that are going to blow up and mark my words on this one. Sticks & Stones are on their way to being the most popular kids at camp. Their collections began with a few items and now include tie bars, cufflinks, pendants and, of course, rings. The double finger, wood-based ring is the genius behind the company. I can spot a Sticks and Stones ring from a mile away and so can anyone else who has joined the secret club. Each piece is sanded by hand bringing the wood to a smooth state, then cured for three weeks in an oil blend that soaks into the wood and hardens, forming a shell.

The men behind the S&S curtain are marketing director Marc Ishida, designer Benjamin Posin and Creative Director Stephan Alexander. The three guys have turned the little idea that could into a train full steam ahead. With a recent mention in Women’s Wear Daily and some serious love at their first industry trade show I predict big things in the near future. I caught up with Stephen Alexander for a little Q & A before they get too big and fancy for a lil’ Pdx fashion editor like me.

Eden Dawn: How did you three meet?

Stephan Alexander: I have known Marc and Ben due to working together on various projects over the years. We all come from different backgrounds in design ranging from graphic to jewelry and fashion. We have grown to be best friends and love being able to collectively put our minds together to create products that people love. Living in a small city like Portland and having the same interest, Sticks & Stones was bound to happen.

E.D: What brought about the idea for Sticks & Stones?

Tie bars and cufflinks are a new addition to the inventory.

S.A: I had been drawing up simple designs that I thought would be cool made out of wood. So I took my ideas to Ben who has a background in jewelry, but he didn’t know much about wood. I had been trying to figure out a way to put this designs together and then Ben eventually brought me a prototype (that a friend had helped him make) of the design I had drawn and it grew from there. I knew that my concept of well-constructed wood-based jewelry was possible.

E.D: Who does what?

S.A: My job as creative director consists of heading the design and overseeing the over all aesthetic of our designs. Ben is the manager as well as a jeweler, so he does the sourcing for our gemstones, metals and findings. He also does the setting of the stones as does the riveting on the metals we use on our rings. Marc is our marketing guy; he also did the branding for S&S as well creates the aesthetics for our website and social media outlets. We are all in the shop almost every day making our products ourselves. So if you own one of our products it was probably handmade by one of us.

E.D: You just went to your first trade show, how was the reception?

S.A: The reception was really really good! It was definitely an encouragement that we were doing something with a substantial market. We were fortunate enough to meet buyers from all over the world as well as important editors from Women’s Wear Daily and GQ magazine. The highlight of the trade show was being able to chat with Neiman Marcus’ Divisional Merchandise Manager.

E.D: What’s your goal for S&S in 2011?

S.A: One of our focuses will be to collaborate with other like-minded designers outside of jewelry, starting with apparel. We also plan releasing a new collection that will bring in materials such as, fossils, Woolly Mammoth ivory and petrified wood.

To check out more about Sticks & Stones (or get yourself some goods) visit YeahWeWood.com

Image from Portland Monthly’s spring fashion editorial – Night Moves

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Tags: Accessories, Accessories, Q&A, Sticks & Stones

Famous Folks

International Fluevog Day

Drop this famous footwear designer’s name for some steals and deals on a makeshift holiday.

Posted by: Eden Dawn on May 14, 2011 at 09:00PM Speech Bubble 0 Comments

Criss-cross leather platforms from my tour-de-Fluevog.

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In 1970 John Fluevog began his career as an independent designer and retailer of forward-thinking footwear and accessories. Or as he tells it, began “creating unique soles for unique souls.” In honor of that Fluevogian spirit, Sunday May 15th is International John Fluevog Day. Stores across the world that respect the name band together to celebrate by way of discounts and fun.

Portland recently became one of the chosen cities and celebrated the launch of our own Fluevog shoe store on West Burnside with a big ol’ shindig and the man himself appeared. John and I were able to chat it up some before he escorted me around to show off a few of his personal favorite shoe picks. For the record I would like more one-on-one shoe guides with designers who sport neon green ties.

Eden Dawn: Why did you choose Portland for your next store?

John Fluevog: Who does not like Portland? Everyone here in Vancouver BC sure does! Fluevog staff loves Portland. I love Portland. Sorry it took so long to get there! Plus, I have roots in Portland. Both of my sisters lived there and my grandfather at age 8 came to the West via the Oregon trail in 1892 from St Louis and settled near Portland. I guess, like my grandfather, I always knew I’d get there at some point.

E.D: What are your impressions of Portland fashion?

John Fluevog + Eden Dawn = People with unusual names.

J.F: Portland fashion is great because it tends to be off the fashion map. Everyone is looking good, but not like they walked out of a magazine. And they are secure enough to embrace eccentricity.

Definitely my kind of town.

E.D: Any big news coming up in the Fluevog realm?

J.F: Not sure how big a news it is for others, but it is for me .We’re opening a store in Quebec City in a month . None of the staff that have been hired speak English. I’m not sure whether to laugh or cry. A challenge for sure, especially as I don’t speak French.

Take advantage of International Fluevog Day with the deals John negotiated on your behalf, all good for just May 15th:

Ace Hotel Portland 1022 SW Stark St
503.228.2277 10% off future reservations booked on May 15th. Ask for Fluevog rate

Cacao 414 SW 13th Avenue
503.241.0656 Two free caramels

Covet 429 sw 10th Avenue
503.222.6838 15% off regular priced merchandise

Jake’s Famous Crawfish 401 SW 12th Avenue
503.226.1419 $15 off to first 25 customers

John pointed these out as one of his favorites for their laser cut-out design.

Goorin Bros Hat Shop 808 NW 23rd Ave.
503.227.5300 15% off total purchase

Living Room Theatres 341 SW 10th Avenue
971.222.2010 Free large popcorn with movie

Masu Sushi 406 SW 13th Avenue
503.221.MASU 15% off

Narcisse 1015 SW Washington Street
503.224.2422 15% off

West End Bikes 1111 SW Stark Street
503.208.2933 10% off instore

For more deals: International Fluevog Day

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Tags: Fashion, Shoes, Q&A, Fluevog

Q&A

Pendleton: The Portland Collection – Q&A

The first interview Pendleton and its Portland Collection designers have given!

Posted by: Eden Dawn on Feb 10, 2011 at 09:00AM Speech Bubble 9 Comments

Photo: Chris Hornbecker

There is not an ill designed piece in this entire collection. The designers did a marvelous job of integrating their aesthetic with Pendleton’s. Bravo kids!

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Last month I published news that Pendleton was releasing The Portland Collection with three local designers giving a facelift to the brand: John Blasioli from A Broken Spoke and Rachel Turk and Nathaniel Crissman from Church & State. Since that date I have been on my hands and knees begging Pendleton and the designers to give up a mini-interview. They finally took pity on this poor fashion editor (or got sick of me blubbering in their virtual doorways, “Pleeeeaaaasseee”) and relented.

Now for your reading pleasure, photos of the collection and the first published interview with the whole gang.

Eden Dawn: How/When did this collaboration come together?

Pendleton: Technically, Pendleton, The Portland Collection is not a collaboration. Pendleton engaged the designers to create a unique collection for the company that targets a contemporary consumer and exposes the brand to new specialty retailers. With all of the excitement around our collaborations it seemed appropriate to expand our reach. We do that in an aspirational way with the Portland Collection.

Current and past collaborations were joint projects between Pendleton and other brands to co-create collections, such as those with Opening Ceremony, Levis, Vans, Adidas, Hurley and Nike.

E.D: How was it designing in a threesome?

Rachel: Pretty great. Our personality types work really well together so we were able to talk through each decision and look at every angle. In the end, I think it allowed for the best design possible.

Photo: Chris Hornbecker

John: For me, it was a great experience getting to work with others in the design process. Having mostly worked alone, I really enjoyed being able to explore different ideas and directions. We ended up with strong, cohesive designs.

Nathaniel: I think it was pretty amazing. I think we all have complementary communication styles as well as a similar sense of what we thought the collection should be.

E.D: Do you think that Portland has an aesthetic?

Pendleton: Portland most definitely has its own urban design aesthetic and sensibility. It is becoming identified as that place in the nation where things are happening. There is innovation. There is excitement and this whole creative explosion – music, arts, fashion. It’s attracting an identity; ‘a place to watch’. But it also has a bit of an eclectic style. It’s natural that The Portland Collection with these young designers would merge with Pendleton Woolen Mills – where else on earth could this have happened.

In fact, three of the last four Project Runway winners have been from the Portland area. That’s pretty remarkable.

E.D: How do you feel that your background contributes to the Pendleton brand?

R, N: We have always loved Pendleton. We often look to them for fabrics for our own line, because there is just something so authentic about them. So we were already heading down the road of creating younger more contemporary designs out of their fabrics.

Photo: Chris Hornbecker

J: I strive to create well-made, timeless pieces and I think Pendleton has always represented that. Ever since moving here, I have always felt quite lucky working with Pendleton wools and having such an amazing resource based so close to home.

E.D: What are your hopes for the Portland Collection?

Pendleton: We believe this exciting new collection will bring Pendleton to a whole new generation of customers. It takes our iconic textiles and marries them with independent design. Rachel, Nathaniel and John have a vision for this collection that truly takes the best of what Pendleton has been, an iconic brand for decades, and interprets it for a young, vibrant and global audience.

E.D: Is this collection a one off or are you three already working on another collection?

Pendleton: Currently, we are evaluating the results of specialty store interest, represented by True Collaborative Fashion, as they introduce the marketplace to The Portland Collection. We should have a good handle on where we go from here after they complete the first set of trade shows.

In terms of Pendleton, we have enjoyed every minute of working with the design team and hope to be able to continue what we think will be a long and exciting relationship.

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Tags: Fashion, portland, Q&A

Insider Info

Pretty Candy

Q&A with local jewelry designer working to dress up your neck.

Posted by: Eden Dawn on Nov 22, 2010 at 10:00AM Speech Bubble 0 Comments

Photo: prettycandyjewelry.com

On any given day you could find Marley Gaddis belting out classic American folk songs on stage with volume infinitely bigger than her petite frame, playing the jaw harp, smiling sweetly at her newlywed husband, writing grants for a conservation organization, or locked in her studio making piece after piece of jewelry from vintage lace for her prettycandy line. It’s good timing too, with lace being one of the top trends for the year and showing no signs of stopping it’s an interesting way to incorporate the trend without having to take it head to toe. I caught up with Marley and asked her a few questions about her line.

Q. What inspired you to get into jewelry design?

A. I have always loved thrift stores, and a couple years ago started purchasing secondhand jewelry that I would disassemble and combine with other pieces to create necklaces and earrings for myself. At the time I was cycling through a variety of hobbies (photography, knitting, a brief/laughable stint with mosaic tiling, etc.) but didn’t really consider jewelry making to be a hobby – just something I did occasionally if I stumbled across an interesting item that called out to me. Late last year I was at the Knitt’n Kitten and came across this lovely row of large stitched flowers that looked as though they may have been cut off the bottom of a tablecloth or curtain. I immediately wanted one on my neck! I bought the row for $0.25, took it home, cut it into pieces and colored one of the flowers with some electric blue dye I had left over from a previous crafty experiment. I stiffened it with Elmer’s glue and wore it out to a friend’s bachelorette party. Another friend (who is a hair stylist) was there that night and asked me if I could make a few more for him to use in a print campaign for his salon (The National Beauty). At the time I had also begun making denim cuffs with photos on them (WristPants) as gifts for friends, and had given one to the bachelorette that night. Talk of the necklace moved to the cuffs, and the same stylist friend ordered 100 of them on the spot to put in the VIP gift bags at the Q Center’s Winter Gala. And prettycandy was born.

Photo: prettycandyjewelry.com

Q. So what made you drawn to the vintage lace above anything else?

A. After the edging from the tablecloth was used up, I started scouring thrift and antique stores for vintage lace pieces or appliqués that I could fashion into necklaces. I discovered a treasure trove of them from one vendor at an antique mall in my neighborhood, and pretty much snatched them all up. I have since found that these are not always easy things to find. I have a couple of sources for new appliqués and Venise lace that I use for many of the “Neck.Lace.” pieces, but still buy up vintage whenever I can. You never know what you are going to find, and they definitely make for some one-of-a-kind neckwear.

Q. Tell me what your goals are for prettycandy.

A. As far as plans for prettycandy…my new plan is to make a plan! I have been just sort of reacting to opportunities as they have presented themselves, still thinking of what I am doing as a hobby (albeit one that comes with a small business license). As I get busier, I realize that I need to be more proactive and deliberate, and really think about what I want this venture to look like. I am very committed to my day job and need to find smart ways to help prettycandy thrive without burning myself out. I have some really fun ideas that I am excited to explore (such as custom WristPants that feature customer’s photos – an idea I plan to launch soon and run for a limited time before the holidays) and am always experimenting with new styles of Neck.Lace. and expanding my color palette. I have recently started making earrings out of the appliqués as well, and have had a great response to those. Bottom line – I just feel incredibly fortunate to have stumbled onto a “hobby” that I enjoy and feel passionate about, and that people really seem to like!

Check it out - prettycandyjewelry.com

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Tags: Shop Local, Jewelry, Q&A

Insider Info

Q&A with Gretchen Jones

Newly crowned Project Runway winner spills the dirt.

Posted by: Eden Dawn on Nov 03, 2010 at 11:24AM Speech Bubble 4 Comments

Photo: Ed Kavishe/Fashion Wire Press

Gretchen Jones

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If you have been living under a rock for the past few days, then maybe you haven’t heard the news. Another designer from our neck of the woods has won Project Runway. So three of the show’s eight winners have been plucked from our regional talent pool. My fledgling math skills put that at around 40 percent, so I am wondering if the show could just be called Project Portland. We managed to catch up with new winner, Gretchen Jones, to answer some burning questions.

Q. This has been quite a ride for you! Right now if you had to do it all over again would you say yes?

A. You know…I would!? Even though it was the hardest experience of my life and came with its highs and lows, I know [deep down in my heart] that it was worth the risk. I am stronger than I would have ever known and learned so much about my capabilities, that alone is priceless, let alone the much needed exposure and connections I now have because of it. I know that now, because of being on the show, I will reach every dream I have ever dared to dream.

Q. We all know that reality television is manipulated into stories. Do you feel that you were accurately portrayed at all?

A. Its all about context. Rarely do we all openly discuss how we feel about ourselves and others. Rarely do we have spotlights on our every action. Even more rare do we expose ourselves to others in such a raw way, ready to be exposed and vulnerable…I believe that I, in an environment so completely foreign and challenging, stayed true to myself. A part of the risk of participating in something like this is to let go of the control of representation. And this was only a mere fraction of a representation into who I am.

What I hope is that I was able to represent myself as thoughtful, informed, honest and kind, but fiercely competitive and talented. You have to be in this industry. And then you [or I] have to let go…

Q. Working under those stress levels, time constraints and sleep exhaustion seems like it would be very detrimental to the creative process. Do you think your designs were compromised because of that?

A. I think it absolutely had an effect. The experience is draining on all levels and by the end, I knew I needed time to digest all my critiques, rest and recharge- emotional, physically, mentally AND creatively.

Q. What singular piece would you say you are most proud of from the challenges?

A. Man! That is tough…I honestly think it’s a tie between the Jumpsuit from the Marie Claire challenge [because for me, it was reflective of breaking boundaries for my own abilities as a designer] and The Zigzag dress from the finale [as it reflects where I am going as a designer] I would and will wear both of those pieces time and time again. I think a lot of women would.

Q. What do you think about the pretty consistent presence of Portland designers on the show? Coincidence, or are we claiming our rightful piece of the design world?

A. I do believe and always have believed in the community of designers here in Portland. There is a lot of talent in this town. The beauty within the modern fashion industry is that there is room for all different types of business approaches- from hand craft/local all the way through to high fashion/international labels. Portland will remain unique and special as it houses a community of designers akin to the same intimate approach. And I think that’s why it is so special.

Q. Finally, what’s on the horizon for you and how can we get our Gretchen fix?

A. I have moved away from Portland already. En route to New York, as I realized through this experience that I have many more ambitions to pursue. My goals are lofty and it is time to take the next step and reach for the ‘big’ dreams. I intend on finding a luxury brand mentorship, exploring styling and writing and honing my skills so I can sometime soon launch my own high-end brand.

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Tags: Fashion, Q&A

Insider Info

Amelia Toro Q&A

Questions answered from our favorite visiting Columbian designer.

Posted by: Eden Dawn on Oct 27, 2010 at 11:40AM Speech Bubble 0 Comments

Photo: Ed Kavishe/Fashion Wire Press

From her Hispanic Heritage collection shown at PFW

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For those of you who read my entire coverage of Portland Fashion Week, you probably guessed I had some favorites. Amelia Toro was a designer that blew me away with her level of craftsmanship and conceptual mastery in her collection that was strong and statement like with its culturally tied embroidery. Despite her insanely busy schedule which had her departing Portland immediately following her show to be present for a debut at the Bogota Museum of Modern Art (we’ve all been in that situation), she managed to find some time to answer my intruding questions.

Q. What was your overall impression of Portland when you were here?

A. I loved your city and I felt people are very open to new ideas. I believe Portland is a very progressive city due to the fact that it was able to create the only runway for designers that are committed to sustainable practices and are aware of nature, organic and socially responsible fashion houses.

Q. You’re a seasoned designer with an impressive resume (Vogue, Bazaar, etc). What made you think that Portland Fashion Week should be added to that list?

A. Lynn Frank the president of Five Stars International who contacted me after reading an article of my work in the New York Times was very convincing and persistent and understood how important and how much we were committed to social responsibility. It was a great opportunity for our company to show our ethnic work and our culture, which is an important part of my designs and through this runway we could continue our work with these indigenous groups.

Q. Your Hispanic Heritage collection featured motifs from the Kuna Indian. Is it important to you that your designs reflect culture?

A. I am interested in the universal quality of their work. The Kuna Indians are based in Panama as well as in Costa Rica but a lot of their geometric shapes are found in many other indigenous groups around the world such as many of the American Indians who use graphic shapes. Culture is important, so are roots. What I tried to do with this type of work is to show how small the world is and how universal these graphic shapes and patterns are.

Photo: Ed Kavishe/Fashion Wire Press

Amelia Toro, myself and Susana Toro

Q. Is there any other particular cultural theme that you want to feature in a future collection?

A. Yes, I am working with many other ethnic groups and artisans for a future project with Disney.

Q. How do you begin working on a collection? (Sketches? Pictures of inspiration?)

A. Usually I begin by choosing my fabrics. I am also inspired by many ancient paintings by architecture, dance and my own personal experience in travels etc. then I start sketching and producing first samples which change several times until we feel it’s ready.

Our previous collection was inspired in Alice in Wonderland, the story written by Lewis Carroll. This is an example of how our fabrics created some of the characters of this story. We were inspired with English ceramic prints, for Alice we developed a magical, floral print; our twins were inspired by the graphic design of Tim Burton, and obviously black for a cat.

Q. Where can someone in Portland buy your designs?

A. Right now we do not have a store that carries our work in Portland but we are in the process of looking for one. If you know of any multibrand boutiques it would be great for us to contact them.

(Editors note: Did you hear that Portland boutiques? You need to lock that down.)

AmeliaToro.com

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Tags: Portland Fashion Week 2010, Q&A

SHOP TALK

Portlandia Stylist Wins an Emmy

Sticks & Stones Q & A

International Fluevog Day

Pendleton: The Portland Collection – Q&A

Pretty Candy

Q&A with Gretchen Jones

Amelia Toro Q&A

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