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For Food Lovers Only

The Food Lover’s Guide to Portland

Writer Liz Crain takes on Portland food

Liz_crain

Today I finally made it to the Pioneer Courthouse Square outpost of The Portland Farmers Market, where I ran into my friend Liz Crain, who’s riding high having just published her first book, The Food Lovers Guide to Portland—a just-bigger-than-pocket-sized compendium of the PDX eating scene that’s sure to resonate with the minds, hearts, and bellies of us all. Here’s what she has to say about her book, all the research that fueled it, and the people who inspired it all.

Mike Thelin: You’re in an elevator: Describe your book.

Food Lover’s Guide to Portland covers the people and businesses that make Portland food and drink so special. Although it includes restaurant and bar recommendations, the bulk of the book focuses on Portland producers and purveyors — so the coffee roasters, beer brewers, butchers, green grocers, farmers, ranchers and then some. Rather than a quick take on these people, businesses, and organizations, I include loads behind-the-scenes, straight-from-the-source information that you won’t find anywhere else. It’s a comprehensive culinary guide geared toward native Portlanders, transplants and travelers.

So, how many places do you profile?

About 250 businesses and organizations, 150-plus restaurant and bars, and 20-plus essays on everything from local rabbit and bison to honey spirits, wild mushrooms and clamming.

You have many interests. Why a book on Portland food?

I’ve been writing articles about food and drink in Portland since 2003 and so stepping up and writing a book about Portland food culture just made sense. Portland is such a unique food town and I thought it deserved a comprehensive food guide. I also happen to love guidebooks—hiking, travel, gardening and culinary.

What were the best discoveries you made while writing and researching this book?

There were so many considering I devoted most of 2009 to researching and writing the book. Some people, businesses and organizations new to me that I fell in love with include Courier Coffee, Kookoolan Farms, Dovetail Bakery, The Frying Scotsman, the Tea Monk, Cacao, Boedecker Cellars, Friends of Family Farmers, Home Orchard Society and Portland Fruit Tree Project. That really just scratches the surface though.

Any plans for a sequel?

I’ll probably do a second edition in a couple years. It’s hard to keep up with all the places opening every day so I think we’ll want a new edition sooner than later.

Was there a message you wanted to convey to the world about the Portland food scene?

That our fabulous restaurants, food carts and bars, which get a ton of local and national press, owe so much to the local food and drink artisans, producers and purveyors. There are loads of celebrity chefs these days but how many celebrity producers and purveyors do you know? I think these Portlanders are just as important to our food culture and that’s why I celebrate them in my book. They have a lot to teach us.

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Tags: Books, Interviews

Franking it up

Meet Your Future Franks

Authors, New Yorkers, and future Portland restaurateurs in Portland tonight for book event.

Franks

I find it not ironic at all that the very week during which New York restaurateurs Frank Falcinelli and Frank Castronovo land in Portland to pimp their new book, I find myself in their native Brooklyn, working from a coffee shop called Variety where Stumptown is served and everyone around me looks as if they were airlifted from Albina Press in North Portland. That’s because Portland and Brooklyn are siblings. Although as New York’s most populous borough, Brooklyn is home to more people than the entire Portland area, there is a similarity in aesthetic (DIY), mode of transportation (bikes), clothing (the tattoo), and method of keeping warm (the beard). And given the number of transplants to and fro, I think it’s fair to declare Portland as Brooklyn’s best new hood. Take that Greenpoint!

This, and the friendship and business relationship between Stumptown founder and Portland/Brooklyn resident Duane Sorenson, is probably why the well regarded owners of Frankie’s Sputino, Prime Meats, and Cafe Pedlar have chosen Portland as the future location of their first restaurant outside of New York. And though that won’t happen until well into next year, the best opportunity before then to meet the Frank duo and see what they’re all about is tonight in Portland at Stumptown Coffee Roasters Downtown location on Third Avenue between Ash and Pine.

The Franks have written a book called The Frankies Spuntino Kitchen Companion and Cooking Manual, and you can pick up a signed copy, enjoy food from Portland’s Olympic Provisions and all the beer and coffee you can drink for a measly $25.

Frankie’s Stumptown Book Event
Thursday June 24th, 6pm
Stumptown Downtown: 128 SW 3rd Avenue, Portland
Tickets can be purchased at brownpapertickets.com and at the door.

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Tags: Events, Books

Food News

Read. Cook. Eat.

Culinary Book Fair is a real page-turner

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Photo: Dan Cronin

Janeen Sarlin (author of Princess Teas Parties and Treats for Little Girls) and Albert Schmid, CCP (author of The Kentucky Bourbon Cookbook) are friendly neighbors at the book fair.

View Slideshow » Photo: Dan Cronin

Janeen Sarlin (author of Princess Teas Parties and Treats for Little Girls) and Albert Schmid, CCP (author of The Kentucky Bourbon Cookbook) are friendly neighbors at the book fair.

View Slideshow » Illustration:

Andrew Dornenberg and Karen Page (authors of The Flavor Bible and What to Drink with What You Eat) have a friendly chat while signing books.

View Slideshow » Photo: Dan Cronin

Cherie Mercer Twohy (author of The I Love Trader Joe’s Cookbook) was all smiles at the book fair.

View Slideshow » Photo: Dan Cronin

Lisa Schroeder, CCP (author of Mother’s Best) answers questions and makes casual conversation with readers.

Last week’s Culinary Book Fair was one of the few events at the IACP Conference that was open to the public. Naturally, it was a veritable smorgasbord of famed cookbook scribes. While the catalog of books to peruse is long, we have compiled a short list of authors that stood out from the rows.

Ruth Reichl’s For You Mom, Finally

This follows Reichl’s memoir from last year, Not Becoming My Mother. Both contain her beautiful, heartbreaking prose about the love that a daughter has for a stern, eccentric mother. Reichl has been honored with four James Beard Awards for her culinary writing (Gourmet, NY Times, LA Times) and cooking (chef and co-owner of Berkeley’s Swallow Restaurant in from 1974 to 1977).

Janeen Sarlin’s Princess Teas Parties and Treats for Little Girls

Sarlin’s excitement about entertaining is hard to ignore. Her most recent book involves nine charming tea party themes for your own princesses at home. From Fairy Princess Tea to Cowgirl Princess Tea, Sarlin has excellent advice for throwing a party that no little girl will forget.

Albert Schmid, CCP’s The Kentucky Bourbon Cookbook

With his second book, Schmid teaches us how to consume bourbon for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and during the after-dinner drink. From salad dressings to cake, the reader quickly learns countless uses for this fiery American favorite.

Lisa Schroeder, CCP’s Mother’s Best

Not to be confused with the author who pens novels for kids and teens, this Lisa Schroeder writes about her passion for food. She brings her slow-cooked recipes her own Mother’s Bistro & Bar and Mama Mia Trattoria from her commercial kitchens to the reader’s home.

Cherie Mercer Twohy, CCP’s The I Love Trader Joe’s Cookbook

Mercer Twohy distilled her love for Trader Joe’s into a cookbook with over 150 really tasty recipes, with ingredients that can be found at everyone’s favorite snack-friendly grocery store. And it’s certainly convenient to browse recipes where you can one-stop shop to find all the ingredients. I wonder if there are any recipes for peanut butter pretzel bites?

Please share your thoughts in the comments!

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Tags: Food News, Books

Public Events

Reading and Eating

Four public events at IACP Conference

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Photo: Dan Cronin

Nostrana Chef Cathy Whims plates mini desserts that are sweet and cold.

View Slideshow » Photo: Dan Cronin

Nostrana Chef Cathy Whims plates mini desserts that are sweet and cold.

View Slideshow » Photo: Stacy Austin

Banquet chef Garrison Price creates a dish including Oregon beef short ribs, rhubarb-red onion marmalade, and saraparilla reduction. Short ribs provided by Oregon Beef council and Oregon Cattleman’s Association.

View Slideshow » Photo: Dan Cronin

Nong’s khao man gai makes a simple but flavorful bite of fresh chicken on rice, topped off with a grated ginger and lime sauce.

View Slideshow » Photo: Stacy Austin

Serratto Chef Tony Meyers chef displays dish of fresh black cod on corona beans, local heirloom carrots, roasted peppers and smoke paprika.

View Slideshow » Photo: Dan Cronin

Delicious pork lettuce wraps from Biwa.

View Slideshow » Photo: Dan Cronin

Kumamoto oysters from Washington-based grower and shipper, Taylor Shellfish Farms.

View Slideshow » Photo: Stacy Austin

Close up of fresh oysters.

After a full day of satisfying their epi-curiousity, IACP conference goers attended the opening reception at the stately Nines Hotel. The sixth floor became food central as local dishes and beverages were abundantly available. Visit our web-exclusive slideshow for a view of the exotic edibles.

Only a few events are left for the public to attend, so if interested, buy tickets now.

The Culinary Book Fair is Friday at the Oregon Convention Center from 1:30 to 3:30. For $10 in advance or $15 at the door, over 50 cookbook authors from across the globe will be in the house. Buy tickets here.

Epic dinner and silent auction to benefit The Culinary Trust on Friday at 6:30 in the Leftbank Annex. For $145, enjoy a five-course meal prepared by some of Portland’s best culinary minds. Buy tickets here.

In partnership with the IACP Conference, the Heathman Restaurant and meat purveyors Nicky USA will host a dinner showcasing quail, rabbit, buffalo, and elk. Janie Hibler, local author of Wild About Game, will emcee.

The Food Film Festival, co-sponsored by the IACP and Foodista.com, has a whole slate of food-related movies on Friday and Saturday. Admission is $10, plus a service fee. Buy tickets here.

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Tags: Food News, Books

Literary Foodie Heaven

Culinary Book Fair

Interview with local food author, Ellen Jackson

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Photo: Steven Jackson

Tomorrow the IACP annual conference begins right here in Stumptown, and for those looking to get a piece of the action, the Culinary Book Fair is Friday at the Oregon Convention Center. For $10 in advance or $15 at the door, the Book Fair is a steal, as one will have the opportunity to chat with authors and have their books personally signed. The list of authors is impressive, including Madhur Jaffrey (Indian actress and food writer) and Judith Jones (publisher of Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking).

Also in attendance will be local favorites, Ellen Jackson and Piper Davis, who authored The Grand Central Baking Book. I conducted a short interview with Jackson, on how it feels to be at such an event. Check out our conversation below…

First, how does it feel to part of a signing that includes the likes of Ruth Reichl and Page/Dornenburg?

To find myself in the company of a handful of my culinary heroes—chefs and authors who not only fill my bookshelves but have informed my career as a professional chef and a writer—is both humbling and affirming. And definitely my most memorable book signing to date.

Tell me about your book in 100 words?

The Grand Central Baking Book embraces a return to seasonality and simplicity in the kitchen. Inspired by the Davis family (founders and owners of the neighborhood bakeries more than 35 years ago) and with a fiercely loyal fan base, our book features recipes for sweet and savory baked goods complemented by workshops and professional baking techniques to ensure your success in the kitchen. From iconic bakery favorites like Jammers and Glazed Vanilla Bundt Cake to delicious Davis family staples including Clover Rolls and Black Cherry Kuchen, our book is filled with tasty reasons to bake.

Why attend this book fair?

Whether you’re a collector of cookbooks, a lover of good food or a devoted groupie, this book fair is an incredible opportunity to rub elbows, nibble and schmooze with a veritable who’s who of the food literati. Bring dog-eared favorites for signing or discover new titles from old favorites, but don’t miss this chance to connect the people who inspire you, keep you company in the kitchen and share your love of food.

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Tags: Books

Books for Hungry Minds

Newish Book Great Overview of Contemporary Cuisine

Global gastro compendium of top chefs includes Portland’s Tommy Habetz

Coco

Being a food writer has its perks. On top of many expensed meals (Still the reason I haven’t seen my abs since early 2007), I receive quite a few food-related books in the mail every week. While most end up in the Salvation Army donation pile, some find their way to my permanent collection—on the bookshelf alongside favorite authors like Waverly Root, Jeffrey Steingarten, and every cook’s best friend Harold McGee. I received one such keeper earlier this winter. It’s called COCO: Ten World Leading Masters Choose 100 Contemporary Chefs (Phaidon).

A compendium of Earth’s 100 top contemporary chefs, the format of the book goes like this: Ten chef members of the global fooderati each chose their ten favorite contemporary chefs. The Michelin star-studded jury includes “deconstructivist” Ferran Adria of the soon-to-be-shuttered-but-no-one-agrees-for-how-long El Bulli, slow foodie Alice Waters of Chez Panisse, noodle maven David Chang of New York’s rising Momofuku empire, New Nordic natural cuisine alchemist Rene Redzepi of Copenhagen’s Noma, and the excess-loving Seattle-born New York chef and restaurateur Mario Batali, who owns more restaurants than I can count.

This volume includes mention of Portland hoagie lord Tommy Habetz of Bunk Sandwiches. (This tidbit was first reported by Karen Brooks of the Oregonian back in December.) Being the huge fan of Tommy’s work that I am, his inclusion alone would have saved COCO from the Goodwill bins, but that alone isn’t why I like it. Thanks to a jury comprised of individuals of many diverse (even disparate) cooking styles, the final roster of chefs and restaurants offers the most entertaining and approachable overview of what’s happening in global cuisine that I’ve seen. By giving an ice cream van, a sandwich shop, and Michelin-starred restaurants all equal treatment, it’s refreshingly unpretentious and captures the energy of contemporary cooking. Plus, it contains about 400 recipes. For these reasons, it has occupied front-and-center bedside table real estate for about two months.

Tommy’s entry onto the list came thanks to Mario Batali, his mentor and former boss. Batali is renowned for several things: his ten-or-so restaurant projects with restaurateur Joe Bastianich, his proclivity for bright orange Crocs, and his resemblance to my mental stereotype of a Viking.

This book is only $49.95, but is a nice introduction to what’s being enjoyed by eaters around the world. And of course, it’s nice to see one of our own among the world’s best. Bunkity.

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Tags: Portland Chefs, Books

bruni

Frank Bruni on Portland Oregon

The ex-New York Times writer on writing, eating, Portland, and not getting fat.

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Frank Bruni

During his stint as the New York Times restaurant critic, Frank Bruni could kill a restaurant in a paragraph or less. Last month, Bruni threw in the napkin, ending his five-year run as New York’s most influential professional eater.

For reviewers, anonymity is requisite. But for Bruni, it’s no longer required as he’s been on television promoting his excellent new book, Born Round, The Secret History of a Full-Time Eater.

In this video, Bruni chats up Charlie Rose on the topics of food writing, eating, and America’s hottest food cities.

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Tags: Food News, Books

PCA

PCA Event To Host Top Northwest Food Writers

Gracies

Come kick it at Gracie’s

The thought of summer ending is tough to comprehend when it’s 93 and sunny, but one knows the rainy season is coming when the dining events go indoors. And here’s one of the inaugural indoor events of early fall that fans of food and food writing won’t want to miss.

The Portland Culinary Alliance, our city’s fraternal association of culinary professionals, will host several renowned food writers on Saturday October 3rd from 8:30 am to 2:00 pm at Gracie’s Restaurant at the Hotel Deluxe. (729 SW 15th Avenue) The event is called Eat My Words: Literary Food Writing That’s Good Enough to Eat, and the roster of visiting writers and local chefs lives up to its title.

Check it out:

Molly Wizenberg, author of A Homemade Life: Stories and Recipes from My Kitchen Table
Matthew Amster-Burton, author of Hungry Monkey
Diana Abu-Jaber, author of Crescent and The Language of Baklava
Shauna James Ahren, author of Gluten Free Girl
Jennie Shortridge, author of Eating Heaven and Love and Biology at the Center of the Universe
Erica Bauermeister, author of The School of Essential Ingredients

Each author will perform a reading and offer food-writing tips to would-be gastronomical scribes. Following the program, a crew off local chefs will prepare a lunch, featuring recipes provided by each author. Chefs include Mark Hosak of Gracie’s, Benjamin Bettinger of Beaker and Flask, Gregory Denton of MetroVino, Jeremy Frice of Departure, and pastry ace Lee Posey of Nel Centro.

After reading about this line-up of authors, and the fact that it includes lunch plus snacks and coffee from the very amiable pair of Adam and Jackie Sappington of Country Cat, I expected it would be a $200 day. But no! For the general public, tickets are only 65 bucks, and you only have until Friday to register. You can register here.

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Tags: Food News, Books

julia

Julia Child Finally a Best Seller

It’s amazing what a dose of Hollywood can do.

Julia

Our Julia

It took 48 years and a little help from Hollywood, but the New York Times reports that Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking sold 22,000 copies over the weekend and will debut at number one on the New York Times best-seller list under the “how-to” category.

Of course, success for Ms. Child, who died in 2004, comes on the coattails of the excellent film Julie and Julia. In case you’ve been visiting another planet during the past couple of weeks, you can read all about the movie here.

Anyone who already owns a copy of Child’s debut book knows that Julia Child is no Rachel Ray. Her recipes are complicated to the novice cook and serve as a great introduction (and authority) on the types of classic French techniques that much of modern cuisine is based on. That such a book would become a best seller in a country with a food system dominated by big agriculture, fast food, and shortcuts is remarkable. That said, it will stay remarkable only if book buyers actually use it. We’ll have to wait and see.

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Tags: Food News, Books

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