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PORTLAND PLATED - March 2010

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Beard Award

Beard Finalists Announced

Portland Chefs Dominate the NW Best Category

The 2010 James Beard finalists were announced today in New Orleans, and Portland fared extremely well, dominating the Best Chef Northwest category. Portland chefs Cathy Whims, (Nostrana) Naomi Pomeroy (Beast), and Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Ping, Whiskey Soda Lounge, Foster Burger) comprised three of the five spots while our own Gabe Rucker of Le Pigeon snagged a coveted spot on the short list of the national category for Rising Star Chef. Other Northwest nominees include prolific and talented Seattle-ite Ethan Stowell (Union, How to Cook a Wolf, Tavolata, and his newest Anchovies and Olives) and Crush Chef Jason Wilson, also of Seattle. I’m proud to see three nominees from my home city. And while I would be happy if any of these fine people were to win, I strongly believe that a victory to our own Cathy Whims is far overdue.

Whims has been cooking in Portland kitchens for three decades, and between her legendary tenure as owner and chef of Genoa and as the head honcho at her current restaurant Nostrana, chefs who have worked under Cathy include the city’s best: Jerry Huisinga of Bar Mingo, Kevin Gibson of EVOE (founding chef at Castagna), Tommy Habetz of Bunk Sandwiches, Alton Garcia formerly of Broder, John Taboada of Navarre, Adam Berger of Ten 01 and Tabla plus many, many more. While Portlanders are right to talk about Zefiro as a harbinger for Portland’s rise as a food town, I will argue that Genoa’s under Whims was the most influential kitchen in the history of the city. Zefiro’s success represented a changing city with increasingly sophisticated tastes while Genoa was the incubator for the honest, rustic, and regionally devoted-style of cooking for which Portland has become renowned.

Whims’ current project Nostrana is a different animal compared with Genoa, but it is equally adored by many. Karen Brooks was right to name Nostrana the Oregonian’s Restaurant of the Year back in 2006. In that article, Brooks rightly states; “Nobody has done more to bring authentic Italian cooking to Portland than Whims,” and, “it’s rare to find food this accomplished and this affordable.”

There you have it. Congrats to everyone.

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Tags: Portland Chefs

New Menus

Tales of Tapas

Kenny & Zuke’s gets continental

Kz2

Pastrami is cured for five days, smoked for ten hours, steamed for 3 hours, and then hand-sliced.

When you walk into Kenny & Zuke’s Delicatessen (1038 SW Stark St), you feel like it is the quintessential Jewish deli. They have sweet mouth-watering Jewish pastries, bagel and lox, challah French toast, and in-house hand-sliced pastrami.

This restaurant was featured in our 2009 Top Burgers package, B is for Bacon…and Breakfast guide to Portland’s best breakfast, and The Art of Eating Cheaply.

Then, I find out they’re having a tapas family style dinner on March 28th. They’ll be cooking up Spanish inspired juicy garlic prawns and albondigas, a classic Mexican meatball soup. Chow down on tortilla de patatas, which is the ideal combo of egg and fried potatoes. My mouth literally hit the floor, and I immediately thought, “Um, hello, Barcelona just called, and they want to tell you that this menu is not kosher.”

And while I want to fight this non-kosher menu tooth and nail, I can’t. Kenny & Zuke’s food has never fed me wrong, and I know the tapas dinner will be delicious. With a plentiful supply of fresh sangria, how could it not be?

Tapas Dinner Sunday, March 28th, seating at 5:00 and 7:30.
Make reservations by calling 503-222-3354 or email catering@kennyandzukes.com
$36.50 per person including sangria
$29.50 without sangria
$19.50 children under 12

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Tags: Southwest Dining

Cooking With Pears

Caught On Camera

Lauro chef demos her award-winning recipe

Have any trouble with the Braised Lamb Shank with Caramelized Pears and Shallots recipe? Lauro Kitchen chef Jennifer Buehler shows Koin 6 viewers how to cook her Pear Panache award-winning recipe on a recent Keep It Local segment.

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Tags: Portland Chefs

In Season

Nice Pear!

Fruit salute at Lauro luncheon

The subject is pears. Did you know there is an entity called Pear Bureau Northwest? Really. There is, I swear! According to their website, “The Pear Bureau Northwest was established in 1931 as a nonprofit marketing organization to promote, advertise and develop markets for fresh pears grown in Oregon and Washington.” Did you know that Oregon and Washington together produce a whopping 84 percent of all the fresh pears grown in this country? Apparently it’s our volcanic soil, yearly rain deluge, and toasty summers that seal the deal. Alright! Pears! We loves ’em!

So when the good folks at Pear Bureau Northwest invited me to lunch at Lauro Kitchen on SE Division, I RSVP’d with a blinding speed known only to starving interns. The event was partly to honor Lauro Chef Jennifer Buehler’s winning recipe in the bureau’s “Pear Panache” program, and partly to let guests sample the latest tastes in peardom.

The Red Anjou pears were an intriguing addition in both the pizza and the salad. The pizza in particular was a sweet and salty surprise with its crackly thin crust supporting a pairing of pears and smoked prosciutto that coexisted in superb harmony. Then came the dish we’d all been waiting for: Buehler’s recipe featured lamb shanks that had been braised for hours alongside caramelized Bosc pears and shallots, and garnished with pistachio couscous. The magnificently sweet aroma rose in the steam as the tender lamb fell apart before our widening eyeballs.

Buehler says she loves cooking with pears because they’re a sweet and versatile ingredient but they can also stand alone as a dessert or side dish. Buehler’s winning recipe, below, has been modified for home cooks. If you prefer someone else to do the braising and sautéing for you, Buehler’s entree is currently on the menu at Lauro Kitchen.

Braised Lamb Shank with Caramelized Pears and Shallots

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Braise

  • 4 lamb shanks, 16 to 20-ounces each
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, roughly chopped
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped or grated fresh ginger
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons saffron
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons ground ginger
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 4 bay leaves
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 1/2 cup whole almonds
  • 2 quarts chicken stock
  • 1/2 cup dried cranberries

  • Caramelized pears and shallots
  • 1 ounces (2 tablespoons) unsalted butter
  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
  • 8 small, whole shallots
  • 2 Bosc pears, peeled, cored and sliced into 1/2"-thick wedges
  • 1/4 cup granulated sugar

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Prepare the lamb by seasoning with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat the oil in a heavy, wide sauté pan until it is very hot, but not smoking. Brown the lamb shanks 2 at a time, turning them so that each side is dark golden brown and crusty, about 12 minutes total. Remove the shanks from the pan.

Reduce the heat under the sauté pan to medium high and add the onions, garlic and ginger. Cook stirring frequently until the onions begin to caramelize slightly and pick up the color and scrapings leftover from browning the meat, about 5 minutes. Put the shanks in a deep, wide casserole, or a roasting pan.

Add the sautéed onion, garlic and ginger to the lamb shanks along with the saffron, ground cinnamon, ground ginger, black and cayenne peppers, bay leaves, cinnamon stick and almonds. Cover the shanks with the chicken stock adding a bit of water if necessary to cover them completely. Cover tightly and braise for about 3-1/2 hours, adding the dried cranberries during the last 30 minutes.

To finish the sauce, melt the butter in a sauté pan with the oil over medium heat. Halve or quarter the larger shallots. Add shallots to the pan and sauté gently until they begin to soften slightly, about 5 minutes. Add the pear slices and sugar and continue to sauté until everything is golden brown, about 15 minutes. Add some chicken stock or water if the sugar begins to get dark.

Remove the lamb shanks from the braising liquid. Transfer the braising liquid to a separate saucepan, put the shanks back in the braising pan and keep them warm. Add the pears and shallots to the braising liquid and reduce slightly. It will already be fairly thick. Add salt and pepper as needed.

To serve, while the sauce is reducing, put the couscous on a larger platter and arrange the lamb shanks on top. Garnish with some pear slices and shallots and spoon the reduced sauce over the meat. Optional: sprinkle with parsley and serve with plain yogurt on the side.

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Tags: Southeast Dining, Recipes

International Eats

Culinary Colors

India food specials thru Saturday night

Yep, every day is indeed a holiday. Holi is the the Hindu festival of colors, celebrating the beginning of spring and the end of the rainy season. To help get the party started the East India Company Grill & Bar (821 Southwest 11th Ave) has a hefty $20 spring-inspired menu available through tomorrow (Saturday) night.

The cuisine represents northern and western India with a few modern twists. The prix fixe menu includes tandoori grilled broccoli, scallions, and peppers, while chicken fans will dig the kodi pulusu, a pot-roasted fowl with coconut, homemade yogurt, and poppy seeds. All these entrees are served with saffron basmati rice and naan, the highly addictive airy oven-baked flatbread. Save room for dessert: gajjar ka halwa is a very rich and sweet staple that sports carrots, milk, saffron, and almonds.

Take in some new traditions and piquant flavor combinations. If only all holidays were this edibly adventurous.

For reservations, call 503-227-8815.

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Tags: Southwest Dining, On the Menu

Pop-up Restaurants

A New Model for Portland Eateries?

Pop-up retail is hot. What about pop-up restaurants?

Thoroughly adaptable beasts, foodie entrepreneurs always find new ways to thrive in downturns, and the most recent spate of economic malaise has been no different. As restaurants have been hurt (though not nearly as bad as some local media organizations would have you believe) a general climate of thrift and resourcefulness has helped food carts, sandwich shops, and other business models that require less initial investment than a typical bricks-and-mortar restaurant thrive.

With high retail vacancy rates in many commercial districts around the country, landlords have begun leasing space on a short-term basis to so called “pop-up” tenants. Rather than signing a typical five or ten-year lease (Restaurant leases are often ten years), “pop-up” retailers occupy a vacant space for a shorter period of time, often only a couple of months. In cities like New York and San Francisco, would-be restaurateurs are beginning to apply this model to eateries. Here’s a New York Times article from last month on the subject.

While what’s always best for a neighborhood are tenants who’ll make long-term commitments, “pop-up” retailers are ideal for the interim. It’s always better to see activity than just an empty space. Many clothing companies have employed this business model here in Portland. In fact, my friend Jean Pierre Veillet of the Portland design build company Siteworks has designed several high-profile pop-up projects in New York City, one of which earned him this article in the New York Times.

As areas like the Pearl District and South Waterfront especially continue to experience higher-than-usual vacancy, I can’t help but think how cool it could be to land a few temporary restaurants, supper clubs, food markets, and night markets in empty retail spaces in Portland.

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Tags: Food News

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