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Porterhowse Farms

colorful conifer cones

Gorgeous_red_cones

Acrocona Norway spruce (Picea abies ‘Acrocona’) with gorgeous hot pinky-purple new cones

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Acrocona Norway spruce (Picea abies ‘Acrocona’) with gorgeous hot pinky-purple new cones

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Likiang spruce (Picea likiangensis) with heavy cone set the year after being moved. Conifers sometimes react to stress by trying to reproduce.

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Silver Show Korean fir (Abies koreana ‘Silver Show’) – Don tells me that, in the weeks since this photo was taken, it has grown beautiful new purple cones. What a combination!

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Here you can easily see a diversity of female cones, both new and old, on one tree. Do you see any male cones? This is Pusch Norway spruce (Picea abies ‘Pusch’).

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Proprietor and conifer expert Don Howse standing in front of the oldest Silberlocke Korean fir on the West Coast (tall silvery tree in backdrop). He holds a start of an even more silvery, choice Korean fir in his hands, propagated from his large Silberlocke tree. (For covetous conifer collectors, this treasure, now named Porterhowse Bonanza, is currently under production and should soon be available for sale.)

I recently visited Porterhowse Farms, a small retail nursery – nestled in a surprisingly large arboretum and garden – specializing in conifers and conifer companion plants. Porterhowse Arboretum has well over 2000 conifer species and cultivars in the collection and a lovely selection of those plants are for sale in the retail area.

Winter is the best time to admire conifer foliage – conifers really “pop” visually once the deciduous trees and shrubs have dropped their leaves and the wintry monotone landscape provides the backdrop. Many conifers also develop rich colors in cold weather, turning gorgeous shades of smoky burgundy, rust, brighter yellow, or more powdery blue. But spring is the best time to see conifer cones because you can observe the distinct and often colorful male and female cones in their springtime colors.

All conifers species have male and female cones. (See this link to note the difference between male and female pine cones.) Both male and female start out small but the males never really grow and are fairly inconspicuous – once they release their pollen, they are shed from the plant.

The first to appear are often the male (pollen-bearing) cones. They are usually orange or tan but are sometimes red or purple. Female (seed-bearing) cones grow large after pollination. On some species, they start out dramatic red, purple or hot pink in youth before turning green, then age to the familiar dry, brown cones we know and love. If you’re unsure which is which, you can gently shake the cones: when mature, males release a cloud of yellow pollen. (Don’t try this if you suffer from conifer pollen allergies!) Maturation time can range from months to years, depending on the species. Mature female cone size can be less than a quarter inch long to over 2 feet in length.

Most conifer species produce male and female parts on the same individual plant but a few, including yews and junipers, appear on separate plants. Yews and junipers actually don’t produce cones: instead, their seed lies within a fleshy covering called an aril. I remember squishing juicy red yew arils when I was a child. (They are reputedly poisonous.)

There was a wild diversity of brightly-colored, prominent cones on the conifers at Porterhowse Farms when I visited. (See Slideshow for some dishy examples – if any aren’t identified and you want to know what they are, email me – or just wait: I’ll be loading the names presently.) But I’m sure my photos do not do them justice – and some of the more dramatic purple female cones were just too high on the trees for me to sensibly photograph.

There is much to learn and love about conifers. Many conifers are tough and drought-tolerant plants, as well as providing year-round interest and a diversity of colors and forms.

For more information on the morphology of the cones and how conifer reproduction takes place, there’s a nice, quick introduction on the American Conifer Society’s conifer introduction page.

A fantastic and informative conifer blog can be found here.

For information on specific conifers, Porterhowse Farms has a database of plants in the arboretum, with descriptions and some photos, as well as an availability list and a links and publications page with a link to the American Conifer Society.

Porterhowse Farms is about an hour from Portland in Sandy. Visitors are welcomed by appointment only – just call to arrange a time to visit. You will need at least an hour to visit the garden – we took over three hours and shopped afterwards. Retail offerings include unusual conifers in sizes ranging from small tubes (I got a tube of silvery cultivar of the lacebark pine, Pinus bungeana ‘Silver Ghost’) to specimen-sized plants. There is also a surprisingly good collection of Sempervivum and Jovibarba (hens-and-chicks) in ruby, burgundy, and nearly black shades, as well as green and red-rimmed green.

To arrange a visit the nursery and arboretum, contact Don here.

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Tags: Slideshow, Nurseries, Trees, Conifers

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Hellebore Season

it’s prime time!

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Three particularly nice hellebores growing right next to each other at Honeyhill Farms Nursery

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A particularly lovely Hellebore at Honeyhill Farms Nursery (photo taken while lying in path looking up!)

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A double reddish Helleborus x hybridus at Honeyhill Farms Nursery

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Pale pink Helleborus x hybridus – older flowers fading to pale creamy pink. (Another photo taken while lying under plants.)

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A nice, apple green Helleborus x sternii – a hybrid between the Corsican hellebore (H. argutifolius) and the slightly tender H. lividus. H. x sternii seedlings are usually perfectly cold hardy.

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Seedlings of Cyclamen coum, a tough little perennial garden plant that is perfectly hardy in Portland, Oregon. It’s not a hellebore, of course, but it’s the one other plant sold at Honeyhill Farms Nursery and happens to be an incredible garden plant that more people should know about. Isn’t it gorgeous?

Hellebores produce some of the most treasured flowers of winter and early spring. There are many species and hybrids available, each with particular assets in the garden. Breeding efforts particularly focusing on the Lenten roses (Helleborus x hybridus) seen at left are creating ever-richer colors and the forms are increasingly refined every year, with doubles, semi-doubles, more pronounced nectaries and larger, more upward-facing flowers. Other types of hellebores offer beautiful, marbled, sheeny-silver and markedly serrated or plum-infused foliage. There’s even a double Christmas rose (Helleborus niger ).

Yet for all the apparent delicacy of the blossoms, the plants themselves are adaptable and tough garden plants. They are quite drought- and, shade tolerant, deer-proof and – best of all – they flower in winter, when we are longing for color and signs of life in the garden.

There are so many gorgeous hybrids that it can be hard to choose between them. But now is the time to do it – for within a few weeks, the flowers will have faded. And then, sadly, the opportunity to choose just the right color and flower shape will be gone until next February/March.

Local nurseries carry many beautiful varieties, from seed strains (these are the least expensive, as they are very variable in color and form – it’s especially important to select them while they’re in flower) to tissue-cultured varieties that are consistently identical. Helleborus x hybridus cultivars that are tissue-cultured tend to cost more – usually about $20 for a gallon plant. But they are so lovely and precious, you may discover that it feels truly worth it. I adore my plants so much! And pick bouquets from them all winter.

It’s nice to go to a retail nursery where you can find a wide array of hellebore species for sale – the tough, lacy-leaved bear’s foot hellebore (H. foetidus ), the sun-loving, green-flowered Corsican hellebore (H. argutifolius ), the rare and slightly tender Helleborus lividus with marbled silver and green foliage and shell pink flowers, the pure white, very early blooming Christmas rose (H. niger ), and the colorful, exotic Lenten rose (H. x hybridus ), as well as myriad hybrids between all the of the above. But you’re likely to find the best array of colors and types if you head directly to hellebore breeders and specialists.

In the Portland area, my top pick is Honeyhill Farms Nursery in the Raleigh Hills area. Jim and Audrey Metcalfe run this nursery attached to their home year-round but it is only open to the public during hellebore flowering season, usually late January, February and early March (depending on the weather). Jim Metcalfe bred two valuable hellebores, Honeyhill Joy and Honeyhill Peace. (Their photos and descriptions can be found on their website, here.) This lovely hillside is home not only to a variety of hellebores but also a gorgeous array of Cyclamen coum, a late winter-flowering hardy Cyclamen. (See slideshow for a pic.)

Another fantastic Hellebore breeder is Northwest Garden Nursery, which holds open house weekends during hellebore flowering season. Upcoming hellebore open garden days are: February 27-28 and March 5-7 from 10 am to 5 pm. Other open nursery dates are listed on the website. Ernie and Marietta O’Byrne used to sell all variety of woodland plants at their nursery and have turned their focus towards wholesale hellebore breeding in recent years. Their extensive display gardens alone are worth a trip to Eugene. They are responsible for the Winter Jewels TM series of hellebore hybrids.

Last but not least, I recommend a trip to Dancing Oaks Nursery in Monmouth to see the hellebores and many other winter flowering plants. Fred Weisensee and Leonard Foltz’s display gardens are carved out of a scenic hillside surrounded by native oak woods. It’s an extraordinary site. They hold their Winter Bloomers Open House Feb 27-28 from 10 to 4 pm. Dancing Oaks is a retail nursery and is open year-round. But the hellebores are only in flower for a couple more weeks so head out there soon. It’s a great trip and you can visit a winery or two on the way out.

Have fun!

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Tags: Flowers, Outdoor Gardening, Nurseries

Well Hello, Sweet Pea!

it’s pea-planting time in Western Oregon

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Black Diamond sweet pea from Fragrant Garden Nursery

Wise old salts say you should plant your sweet peas – and edible peas, while you’re at it – around Presidents’ Day in our region. But there are still many good weeks of planting time. It’s just that, the later in spring you plant, the fewer weeks you’ll have to enjoy the results. Late March is usually still good… but mid- to late February is perfect.

Sweet peas are easy little annual vines. They grow during the cool, wet days of spring and flower in late spring and early summer. By the time the heat of July hits, they usually peter out. But they are so gloriously fragrant and beautiful that it’s all worth it. They are also incredibly easy to grow.

So pick up some packets of sweet peas. I say “packets” because who are we kidding? The pictures are gorgeous and sweet peas really are picture perfect in the garden. Why stop at the Royal Family mixed colors when you can also try the heirloom Painted Lady (hot pink and pale pink bicolor), Cupani’s Original (purple and mauve bicolor) and the indescribably lovely Saltwater Taffy Swirls (white stripes on apricot, purple and pink)?

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Chocolate Flake sweet pea from Fragrant Garden Nursery

Fantastic local sweet pea vendors include Fragrant Garden Nursery (Roseburg, OR), Nichols Garden Nursery (Albany, OR), and – a little less local but still fabulous – Renee’s Garden (Felton, CA). You can order them directly on line too but most local nurseries carry a great selection.

You can lightly sand the seed coat and/or soak the seeds for an hour in warm (110 F) water to help soften the seed coat but it isn’t necessary. Also, some people start them indoors. I usually plant them directly in the ground.

To plant sweet peas outdoors, here’s what to do:

  • * get your sweet pea seeds. Also, a sack of mushroom compost or composted cow manure (or use your own home-made garden compost) and some non-toxic, pet-safe Sluggo slug bait to protect sprouts from slugs.
  • * grab a shovel and a trowel. Maybe a pair of gloves.
  • * find a spot that receives at least a full morning of sun and where there’s something for the sweet pea plants to climb. This could be a trellis, chain link fence, or other plants (sweet peas will scramble up a sturdy shrub in a loose, rambly kind of way). If your fence is flat surfaced, drive nails on the top and bottom and tie rough string between the nails so the vines have some thing to climb. Or – after digging (next step) – make a bamboo stake “tee-pee” with rough string encircling it so the tiny tendrils can cling to something.
  • * dig up the ground at least a foot deep and wide – more if you’re planting a whole packet of seeds. Sweet peas really show off if you enrich the soil – so pile on the compost and dig away! Do chop up native soil clods so the soil feels nice and crumbly and is dark with the fresh compost you’ve added. Space seeds about two inches apart.
  • * Press the seeds in with your fingers, about an inch deep. They are pretty large and easy to handle. If the forecast predicts rain in the next 24 hours, you don’t even need to water them in.

WIthin 10-20 days, your sweet peas will sprout. Scatter some Sluggo around the sprouts when they come up. It’s amazing to watch how quickly they rise out of the ground so keep an eye out!

Seeds_on_table

This is what my dining room table looks like every February. (Sweet peas are front and center!)

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Tags: Vegetables, Outdoor Gardening, Nurseries, Gardening Tips

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Air Plants

wierd and wonderful pineapple relatives

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I spied these unusual air plants (Tillandsia ) at the Seattle garden show and made a bee-line for them. Turns out the grower, Owens Gardens from Monroe, WA was at Portland’s Yard, Garden & Patio Show, too.

Tillandias are made up of spidery green to gray rosettes of foliage that can be fine and grassy, spidery and twisted or thick and fleshy like a succulent. Blossoms emerge in flattened bracts that range in color from pale pink or lavender to orange or sizzling hot pink, sometimes with contrasting blue and violet flowers at the tips.

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Air plants come by their name because they do not root themselves in soil. Instead, they attach themselves to rocks, trees and sometimes, in urban areas, buildings and phone lines. From these positions, they draw the moisture and nutrients they need from rain, runoff and ambient humidity using tiny hairs growing on their leaves. Air plants are tropical and subtropical “epiphytes” and most come from Central and South America. If you’ve been to the Southern US, you’ve probably seen another type of air plant, Spanish moss (Tillandsia usneoides) trailing from the branches of evergreen oak trees. Air plants’ roots exist solely to anchor them to rocks and trees.

Bromeliads

Hopefully this spot will provide all the bright light, good air circulation and humidity these plants need. Tillandsia medusae (center), Tillandsia aeranthos (on right) and Tillandsia stricta (on left)

Caring for these odd little treasures is easy. They require bright, indirect light (no blasting afternoon sun). And they need to be drenched with a squirt-bottle 1-3 times per week (depending on ambient humidity and heat). If you fertilize them 1-2 times per month in spring and summer with 1/4 strength, high phosphorus fertilizer, you should be rewarded with flowers. Since they are tender, they should be protected from frost. While they live indoors all winter, they do appreciate summer vacation outdoors. Just drench them with a hose a few times a week.

I’ve seen them in shops, artfully nestled into beautiful shells and wee baskets, affixed to stones or pieces of pottery, and tucked into small glass terrariums. (This latter idea isn’t so good for very long, as they do require brisk air circulation.) But I just settled mine in the shower caddy in my sunny bathroom next to a window. It required no effort on my part to set up and I get to regularly admire them up close and personal. All I need to do is douse them with water (cold, of course!) a couple of times a week and give them fertilizer a couple of times a month in winter. Easy!


Owens Tillandsia Nursery doesn’t have an online store but they do sell directly at garden shows and plant sales. Call them at 360-794-6422 for more information. Locally, try Artemisia Garden Nursery and PIstils Nursery.

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Tags: Nurseries, Gardening Tips, Indoor Gardening

The Chicks Are Coming!

local resources for urban chicken farmers

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This lovely poster was designed by local artist Joe Wirtheim and is for sale, along with some others, at the Urban Farm Store

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Naomi’s Organic Farm Supply store, now open for business

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Co-owner Mary helping the new rat terrier rescue dog acclimate to his new surroundings…

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Adorable little pygmy goats and chickens just settling in to their new home at Naomi’s Organic Farm Supply

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The Urban Farm Store’s brand new digs are much bigger. They’re still unpacking…

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Looks like the chickens were some of the first to be moved in at the new location…

Ten years ago, when I first kept chickens, there were few places in Portland to buy supplies. Driving out to Foster Feed on Southeast Foster & 103rd (Tel: 503-777-2967) was something of a pilgrimage from the city — there weren’t many of us with chickens yet then – and I’d often ride out with one of the few other chicken-o-philes I knew so we could pool resources and buy big sacks of grit and oyster shell, feed (there was no organic feed available then) or bedding. We chicken people stuck together.

Now, we have numerous small farm stores in the city limits where urban chickeners can buy their supplies. Baby chicks are available throughout spring and early summer, along with the organic feed, bedding and other supplies needed to keep them healthy and happy. You can even buy some rather spectacular pre-fab coops!

Since we’re in the final countdown to the start of chick season (mid-February), here’s a survey of my favorite places to find chicks and all-things-chickeny in Portland:


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Naomi’s Organic Farm Supply store, now open for business

First, the brand-spanking new Naomi’s Organic Farm Supply, located at 2500 SE Tacoma St, Portland OR 97202, right on McLoughlin (Tel: 503-517-8551). This store, run by Naomi, her husband Neil and her mom Mary (just don’t call her “Mother Mary” please!!!), sells chicks, feed, soil amendments, fertilizers, books, seeds and plants. Also, some adorable chicken t-shirts and – my favorite – a beautiful little barn and fenced run where you can meet and greet their little flock of farm animals including miniature goats! Naomi has honed her knowledge of soil and organic amendments and fertilizers after managing for several years at Concentrates, Inc., a feed and fertilizer supply store at 2613 SE 8th (Tel: 503-234-7501). Naomi now teaches classes on all variety of urban farming topics but is particularly helpful with chickens, goats, organic gardening practices and soil issues from organic nutrition to soil tilth.

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Co-owner Mary helping the new rat terrier rescue dog acclimate to his new surroundings…

The Urban Farm Store opened last year on SE Morrison and has just recently moved down the street. Now located at 2100 SE Belmont, Portland, OR 97214 (Tel: 503-234-7733), this shop sells chicks, feed, coops, straw bales, organic vegetable starts and fruit trees, seeds, beer and cheese making supplies, and more. Owner Robert Litt is well-schooled (literally and figuratively) in the ways of sustainable agriculture and design and is a superb resource for all things chicken, farm, and agriculture.

Several small plant nurseries also sell chicken supplies and sometimes chicks – and are themselves quite “chickeny,” with hens wandering the aisles while you shop for plants and owners and employees who are avid and knowledgeable keepers of chickens. These include Buffalo Gardens at 728 NE Dekum, Portland OR 97211 (Tel: 503-288-0220); Pistils Nursery (503-288-4889); and Livingscape Nursery at 3926 N. Vancouver Ave between Shaver & Fremont (Tel: 503-248-0104). Check before visiting to make sure they have what you’re looking for, as quantities of various breeds wax and wane throughout the season and supplies can sell out during the busy season.

Have I missed your favorite chicken supply shop or urban farm supply store? Let me hear from you!


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Tags: Chickens, Nurseries

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