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Posts tagged with: Habitat

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Salvia greggii

Autumn sage – one of the earliest sages to flower in spring

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Salvia_greggii

Salvia greggii

Who doesn’t have room for a drought-tolerant, forever-blooming, small shrub that comes in all variety of bright, lipsticky colors?

Salvia greggii is often hybridized with other closely related salvias to produce a dizzying array of brightly colored flowers ranging from fire-engine red, coral, purple, hot pink, pale pink, and apricot to white and various bicolors. The delicate flowers appear from May to October on semi-evergreen sub-shrubs reaching about 3 feet tall and wide, with highly aromatic leaves. Plants have an airy, twiggy habit and can range from upright to sprawling and irregular in form. They tend to be rather brittle but, if broken by passersby – as often happens to the plant in my parking strip – renew themselves quickly.

Native to rocky areas in parts of Texas and Mexico, Salvia greggii is often hybridized with other salvia species, including Salvia microphylla, to create even more deliciously colorful hybrids, including my favorite, the subtle Salvia x jamensis ‘Sierra de San Antonio’ – a two-toned, soft peach and pale yellow flowered plant that seems to make everything around it look great.

Salvia greggii is tough, long-flowering, adaptable, and extremely attractive to hummingbirds. Although some selections are more hardy than others, most survive Portland area winters, as long as they have good drainage. Plants often look pretty shabby by late winter. That’s the time to cut it back to a sturdy framework (4-12 inches) to keep it tidy – or just let it go and avert your eyes until May, when they come back into flower.

One interesting thing about this plant is that, if you do prune it in late winter, you can take some of the thinner, younger woody branches and just poke them back in the ground. With any luck, some will take root. It’s a great, easy way to get more plants. If you try it, you’ll know within a month or two whether they have rooted. If so, just wait until their root system has developed reasonably – by late May or so – to transplant it.

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Tags: Flowers, Habitat

Backyard Habitat Certification

I did it – you can, too!

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Gaylen___karen

The fabulous duo of Gaylen Beatty of Three Rivers Land Conservancy and Karen Munday of Portland Audubon came out to my house on a cold winter’s day and gave my garden their stamp of approval for nurturing wildlife. But I still have a ways to go towards improving things. I’ve already started working on it, ladies – come back soon!

View Slideshow » Illustration:

Out with invasives! I may love my unusual white-flowered, cream-variegated honesty plant (aka, money plant, known to botanists as Lunaria annua Variegata Alba) but I’d hate to contribute to Oregon’s already bad invasive plant problems!

View Slideshow » Illustration:

This 20-foot tall and wide shrubby flowering quince (Chaenomeles sp.) straddles my and my neighbor’s yard. It’s wild and overgrown, just like the birds like it. Hummingbirds and songbirds nest in there every year and it offers safety from predators, as well. It’s nice to have some untamed, wild places in your neighborhood.

As anyone who’s met me lately at a cocktail party can attest, I rattle on a lot about the native insects in my back garden. (Ever since I joined the Xerces Society, I’ve been a total pest about bugs!)

So when I found out about the Backyard Habitat Certification Program, a partnership of the Audubon Society, Three Rivers Land Conservancy and the East Multnomah County Water District, I immediately signed myself up.

This program is designed to help Portland area homeowners restore native wildlife habitat in their yards – that means for bees, birds, lizards (if you’re lucky), and other creatures. Oh, and plants, of course! For $25, you receive useful educational materials, valuable resources to help you get started (low-cost plants, coupons and gift cards) and individual feedback on your garden’s habitat-friendliness. The focus is on removing noxious weeds, replanting Willamette Valley native plants, managing storm water and basically creating beneficial habitat for native wildlife.

It all starts with a home site assessment. For this, a knowledgeable backyard certification staff person comes to your yard for a site visit. Together, you tromp around and notes are taken on invasive weeds, storm water issues (impervious surfaces, whether IPM methods are used, etc). Any existing native plants are noted and, if you qualify, the level of certification for which you qualify is awarded on the spot and you’ll receive advice on moving up to the next level. If you aren’t quite there yet, you’ll receive detailed information about how to create more valuable habitat for wildlife so that you can be certified.

There are three levels of certification. Silver is the first level – this was my certification level because I have 5% native cover. When I increase the native cover in my garden to 15%, and take further steps to create still better habitat for wildlife (such as installing a water feature for birds and butterflies to splash about in – or an orchard mason bee house) I would certify for second level “gold” status. Platinum level certification is the “top” level.

The walk-through was fascinating! As we strolled and talked, it was observed that I had an invasive species in my garden – a rather lovely white-flowered, cream-variegated leafed money plant (Lunaria annua ‘Variegata Alba’). I guess I hoped they wouldn’t recognize it (I do remove the tops after they finish flowering) but Galen Beatty (of Three Rivers Land Conservancy) and Karen Munday (Portland Audubon) know their plants. True, it’s variegated and marginally less aggressive than the straight green leafed, purple-flowered form. (There’s a picture in the slideshow.) But I do notice that it throws out the occasional green-leafed reversion. So out it will come, in the name of good environmental stewardship!

After the site visit, I received a Home Visit Assessment Report which detailed my property and the watershed I belong to. It outlined everything we discussed during the site visit, including the wildlife-friendly qualities of my garden and the steps I would need to take to make it increasingly wildlife friendly over time.

I also received an amazing wealth of resources including a fat Naturescaping binder providing all the basic information needed to envision and then create a haven for wildlife in your garden. Why are native insects important? What kind of a garden design is most useful to native birds? This volume addresses these questions, and provides planting diagrams and plans and numerous plant lists.

In addition, I got a file folder with more resources and ideas for cultivating the four main elements of the program: removing invasive plants and cultivating natives, developing a stormwater plan on your property, and attracting and preserving wildlife.

I am now the proud owner a sign which I will post near the front of my garden so that people who see the sign will ask me how I got it! Their goal is to help Portlanders think about and work toward creating a rich and diverse habitat for native wildlife. I’m all for it. How about you?

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Tags: Habitat, Wildlife

recycling

What to do with Mr. Christmas Tree?

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Kookaburra

Not that I’m ready to take my tree down – it took forever to set it up and decorate it and I’m not about to cut the experience short. But when the time comes and the tree starts to look sad, I will finally come to my senses, un-decorate it, and drag it out the door.

Luckily, there’s no need to get all in a twist about what to do with it. I’ve laid out the options (below) so you can quickly make it go away. Same goes for swags and wreaths, by the way. Be sure to remove tinsel, wire, wreath frames, stands, and – of course – ornaments. If your tree is flocked, it may not be accepted for recycling so call the recycling center of your choice before dropping it off or arranging pick up. You can also call the Metro Hotline 8:30 to 5, Monday – Saturday, 503-234-3000.

Metro lays out the public recycling options here but I have a few other suggestions, for those who want to get creative:

CHIP IT UP FOR MULCH: If you have a chipper, the resulting woody chips will make a valuable mulch for trees and shrubs in your garden. But who has a chipper? I don’t. Maybe your neighbor does. If so, maybe you can bring them a plate of delicious cookies and chat them up over the fence.

HAVE IT PICKED UP OR DROP IT OFF FOR RECYCLING: For a reasonable fee, many local churches, the Boy Scouts, clubs and other non-profits run tree recycling programs as fund-raisers. Check here for tree recycling programs in your neighborhood.

DEPOSIT IN CURBSIDE RECYCLING: Read this for details on curbside recycling. Just scroll down to see how it’s done in your area. If you do use your yard debris bins, snip the tree into small pieces first. You’ll probably need loppers and a saw, not just hand-pruners. Saw the trunk into smaller pieces or leave it alongside the bins (make sure it fits the size guidelines) and it will be picked up for an additional charge.

HUCK IT INTO YOUR BACK YARD: To keep the material within the living loop of your garden in good Permaculture style, toss it into an out-of-the-way part of your garden to decompose and, ultimately, improve your soil. Good etiquette requires you site the debris where your neighbors don’t have to see the foliage turn orangey-brown and decompose over the next year or two. Personal experience has taught me two things when choosing this option: 1. best to cut the foliage up as small as possible so it breaks down quicker – burying it or working small pieces into your compost pile can also speed things up; and 2. the mutilated trunk is just too depressing looking to leave lying around. Instead, use a saw to cut the main trunk into small pieces and bury them in an out-of-the-way area, add them to an existing yard debris pile for wildlife (big, brushy piles of tree boughs make good bird habitat) or plunk them in your yard debris bin so the City can turn them into mulch.

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Tags: Habitat

Habitat

Our Feathered Friends

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Bird-opener

American goldfinch, chickadee, Stellar’s jay and Anna’s hummingbird – all common in various parts of the Portland area in winter

Just up on the Portland Monthly website – a piece I wrote about winter birds – Winged Wonders. I love Garrett’s stylish illustrations of our native bird species. Make sure you click on the slide show, as you’ll find pictured there eight lovely wild birds commonly seen in the Portland metro area in winter, along with information about their native habitats, plants they associate with, and their preferred food sources. These are valuable things to know about if want to entice these lively creatures into your garden.

Many people who feed birds wonder about the politics of feeding wild birds. Is it really good for them to be fed at feeders instead of foraging for their own wild foods? After all, we’re told not to feed ducks at Laurelhurst pond and seagulls at the beach. How do we know which birds to feed and when?

I suppose the rule would be: if you want to butt in to birds’ lives by feeding them, feed them what they would naturally eat. Larger birds such as ducks, geese, crows and seagulls can become a nuisance in parks and urban areas when attracted to the chunks of stale bread people toss them. Bread is also not a natural, nourishing food choice for wild birds. So this practice is not recommended.

Bird feeders stocked with appropriate seed or suet are perfectly good, though: “wild birds don’t need feeders; they need native food sources and habitat,” says Karen Munday at the Audubon Society of Portland. “The main benefit of feeders is that they allow people to see wild birds up close. And,” she adds, “hopefully that inspires people to protect crucial wild bird habitat in the long run.”

Birds_at_feeder

Bushtits (foreground) at suet feeder and sunflower hearts tube feeder; gold finches (back) at thistle feeder

So by all means, set up feeders that are appropriate to the birds you want to attract. Just remember that feeders aren’t the whole story – habitat is the crucial piece of the puzzle for wild birds. And while you shouldn’t worry too much about it, it is worth maintaining feeders during extreme winter weather – for although wild birds are resourceful, they are also creatures of habit, and prolonged frigid temperatures can stretch their resources. Meanwhile, start working on a sustainable plan to create a haven-like habitat for wild birds in your garden.

ATTRACT BIRDS TO YOUR GARDENNATURALLY
If you live adjacent to a park, forest or body of water, you probably need no tips on attracting wild birds to your garden – birds surround you. But should you not have forest, open fields, streams, ponds or other wild bird-attracting features around, you may need to work on it a bit. To that end, here are a few basic bird requirements:

Natural food sources Trees, shrubs and herbs that supply fruit, berries, nuts, flower nectar and insect populations that are edible to birds. Different plants attract different sets of birds. Native plants are preferable but many non-invasive ornamentals are also rich sources of food.

Water Water can range from a pond or stream to a simple, 1-inch deep pan of water that is kept clean and fresh. Running water, still water, streams, lakes and ocean each attract different species. You may consider investing in a bird bath heater. But why make life easy when you can run out every hour or two during sub-freezing spells to pour boiling water over your bird baths?

Shelter Depending on the bird, ideal shelter could include gravel or rocky areas, brush piles, hedgerows and shrubby thickets, fields of tall grass, weed patches, tall evergreen trees or tree snags. Another important element of shelter includes safety from non-native predators – and that means keeping domestic cats indoors. If that is not possible, at least keep them indoors during spring nesting season.

DIVERSITY IS KEY
Everything revolves around habitat – and plant – diversity. Monocultures of grass or one species of plant don’t make for good bird habitat, whether it’s a vast sea of lawn or a massive hedge of English laurel. A monoculture of invasive species like English ivy, Portuguese laurel or garlic mustard is even less hospitable, as invasive plants smother native plant habitat that did once support wildlife.

Habitat_waiting_to_happen

Habitat… waiting to happen

Habitat

Nectar and pollen diversity, as well as plants ranging from ground level to tree height. I bet there are a few tasty insects in there, too…

Not only species-diverse, but multi-layered plantings are best, with a tree canopy, shrub and herb under-story and ground-cover plants, as well as some bare soil for dust baths and grubbing around for insects. Tree canopies, wooded forest floor, brushy thickets, open areas and brush piles provide plenty of options for birds to feed, nest – and flit from one place to another to evade predators. And what’s good for the birds is good for the bees… and butterflies… and other creatures that comprise healthy, diverse habitat.

GETTING STARTED
Creating hospitable bird habitat is an ongoing process, not something you can do overnight. Start by setting up a bird feeder stocked with appropriate feed in a safe place. Soon, you’ll build a relationship with your local song bird population and begin identifying some of your avian visitors. You’ll notice which birds eat which feed – and what plants or areas of your garden serve as food or shelter for which birds. By observing the charming and complex behavior of wild birds in action, you will discover great delight during the cold, dark months of winter. The next step, naturally, is to seek out the plants and build the habitat that will sustain them in the future.

When I first began feeding winter birds, I worried that I was artificially luring them to stay in an otherwise inhospitable environment. Says the Audubon Society’s Karen Munday, “Birds come to Portland or stay in the area in the winter because of our mild, hospitable climate with good habitat and suitable natural food sources in the region – not because of an individual person’s bird feeder." In fact, most birds require a varied diet composed of seeds, fruit and insects. The importance of a varied diet is especially true for hummingbirds. “Hummingbirds can’t live on sugar water feeders alone: it simply provides them with an energy boost, the way a sugary candy bar does for a person. Hummingbirds need protein, minerals and vitamins supplied by insects, nectar in flowers, and other natural sources.

And since we live in an imperfect world, it must be said that there are some drawbacks associated with feeders. “Feeders artificially gather many birds into one place, which can lead to disease,” says Munday. “Birds fly to the feeder perch, eat, and poop – thereby transmitting any diseases there may be.” What to do? Scrub out feeders once per week with soapy water and then a solution of one part bleach to ten parts water. Allow it to dry completely before adding a one-week supply of fresh bird feed. The same goes for hummingbird feeders: every 4-5 days, wash and dry the feeder before setting it out again with about 4-5 days’ worth of sugar water. Suet should only be used during the cold months – or only set out enough to last a day. Rancid or melting suet is both unhealthy for birds and icky to clean up.

So feeders allow us to see and relate to birds and that is a wonderful thing. But still, natural food sources are best for birds. The Audubon Society encourages native plants as the optimal food sources for native insects and native birds, but there are non-native ornamentals that can be excellent sources of food and habitat.

Hummingbird

It’s easy to keep hummers supplied with natural nectar sources in summer. During freezing winter weather, it can be a challenge!

There are several sources of good native plant lists and other resources for attracting and supporting native wildlife:

East Multnomah Soil Water and Conservation District
City of Portland Native Plant List
Metro
Xerces Society (What’s good for bees, butterflies and pollinators is good for birds)

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Tags: Habitat, Wildlife, Gardening Tips

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