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Plant a Summery Container

Cornell_farm_planter

I saw this planter a couple of years ago at Cornell Farm Nursery, which sells lovely ready-made planters. Apparently, that hot coral color in the zonal geranium is very fashionable right now!

View Slideshow » Photo: Kate Bryant

Even estate gardeners at the Biltmore let themselves go a little bonkers sometimes. The plant is golden pineapple sage (Salvia elegans ‘Golden Delicious’), which often flowers until December in Portland, though it rarely survives January and February.

View Slideshow » Photo: Kate Bryant

I ran into garden designer Lucy Hardiman and gardener extraordinaire Nancy Goldman at the Portland Nursery last week, as they gathered plants for a joint container planting spree. What did you do with all those plants, ladies?

View Slideshow » Illustration:

Designer Lucy Hardiman has this trio of pots in her front garden that I love for its summery lushness. Variegated hosta, golden Japanese forest grass and the cold-hardy perennial Impatiens omeiense, with exquisite marbled foliage and apricot or pale yellow flowers in summer. Divinely simple.

Planting a summery container is pretty easy: at its most basic, you pick your container, then add soil, plants and water. But as with most things that sound easy, there are a few fancy little tricks of the trade to know about if you haven’t done it much before.

First…

1. Pick your pot. You can start with an existing planter and then find the plants that will suit it or start with the plant and pick a container. But chances are, you already have a pot, window box or urn that’s left over from last year, waiting to be filled.

If you’re working with a smallish pot (say, 12” diameter or less), try planting just one fine, summery flower or foliage plant in it. An ordinary coleus, succulent or geranium can be perfectly charming, even rather clever – when it’s featured solo. Just make sure you’ve picked a plant that will survive in the amount of sun or shade you’re offering. More than one or two plants in a small pot and you’ll be on frequent watering duty in hot weather.

A larger pot (=more root space) expands your options, although most seasonal plantings (vs permanent plantings) really only need 6-10 inches of soil depth. Consider using a planter insert ($5 to $13, depending on diameter) or light-weight pot filler ($20 for small/medium pot -$30 for medium/large) to minimize the weight of larger pots, decrease the amount of soil you need to use, allow you to move pots more easily, and improve drainage.

2. Add potting soil. Most quality commercial potting soil combines peat moss, compost or worm castings and pumice or perlite. Some also include ground bark, coir to improve moisture retention, slow-release fertilizer (“organic” or petroleum-based, depending), or micorrhizae to feed plants’ roots.

For good drainage (think succulents, pines or lavender), choose potting soil with plenty of pumice or perlite. Ground bark can be a helpful addition for potting up trees and woody shrubs, as well as conifers. The debate rages on about whether peat is “renewable” – it seems like an old-growth product to me, and too slowly renewable, so I avoid it where possible. Coir (derived from coconut hulls) is a good lightweight alternative but very moisture-retentive (perfect for, say, fuchsias, ferns or begonias) so not as good for plants requiring quick drainage. Buy organic fertilizer and micorrhizae separately (try Naomi’s Organic Farm Supply or Concentrates and custom-blend them or just buy organic potting soil containing those materials pre-mixed. Help drain holes stay clear in smaller seasonal pots by placing a square of air-permeable frost cloth over the bottom of the pot to prevent pumice or wood chips from clogging it. Avoid using gravel, soda bottles, Styrofoam peanuts or any other “junk” at the bottom of pots, as these materials are difficult to remove or clean and the latter two materials compact.

3. Pick out your plants (the fun part). Combine seasonal summery flowers that tickle your fancy – fragrant, dark purple petunias with chartreuse licorice plant (Helichrysum petiolare ‘Limelight’) and hot coral zonal geraniums or perhaps quaint orange Cuphea or hot pink, velvet-budded Salvia involucrata to attract hummingbirds. Or plant perennials that will look better and better as the summer turns to fall, like tall sedum, ornamental grasses like Shenandoah switch grass (Panicum virgata ‘Shenandoah’) or mixed pots of herbs (try rosemary, sage, thyme and a peachy calendula, with chives in the middle).

If you’re having trouble deciding what to plant, bring the pot to a well-stocked local plant nursery and tote it around on a cart while hunting for inspiration. If the pot’s too big or fragile, bring a photo of it with you (with measurements). Some local nurseries like Cornell Farms , Seven Dees and Portland Nursery have some talented people who can provide solid container planting advice.

Finally, add non-toxic slug bait (Sluggo) and scratch in organic fertilizer a couple of times in the summer to keep plants fiesty.

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Tags: Flowers, Container Gardening, Get Dirty

Get Dirty

Plant a Tree, Get a Treebate

the program takes a break for summer – so get planting!

Dove_tree

Imagine looking out your window into the glowing white flowers of the dove tree (Davidia involucrata).

We all know that planting trees helps combat global warming.

At a local level, trees are also an important part of Portland’s green storm water infrastructure. They absorb rain, prevent erosion, clean the air and shade our neighborhoods.

As an incentive to homeowners, the City of Portland has been offering a Treebate to Portland residents who plant trees on their residential property.

How does the Treebate work? The city will credit your water/sewer utility bill for half the purchase price per tree, up to $40 – and up to $50 if you plant a native tree.

To receive a Treebate, purchase an eligible tree, plant it at a residence in the City of Portland, and submit an application form and the receipt from our tree purchase by May 1, 2010. That’s coming up pretty quick! I just called Erica Timm (503-823-5729) at the City and she said the receipt and application form just need to be postmarked by May 1 (that’s this Saturday) to be eligible. If you have any questions about tree eligibility or other aspects of the Treebate, call Erica this week.

If you miss this deadline, you just have a little more time to think about species, as the program will almost certainly be offered again this fall. Be sure to purchase your eligible tree after September 1, 2010 to qualify for the fall Treebate.

Other eligibility tidbits of interest:

All tree species are eligible, as long as they are not on the nuisance list and are full-sized (not dwarf), single-trunked trees. The idea is that the City would like maximum biomass for their Treebate bucks. Native trees are considered best, as they provide native pollinators, birds, butterflies and other native creatures with crucial habitat.

Forms, list of eligible and ineligible trees and other program details are available here.

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Tags: Get Dirty, Trees

Get Dirty

Hellebore Maintenance

Get out your clippers! It’s time for a seasonal gardening task.

Detritus_from_pruning_spree

Winter-flowering hellebores have become very popular in recent years. One type, the Lenten rose (Helleborus x hybridus), was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2005 by the Perennial Plant Association. This hellebore and its close relatives (the Corsican hellebore, the Christmas rose, and other hellebores) produce beautiful flowers in the depths of winter. Most are easy to grow, tolerant of tough conditions and divinely beautiful. That’s why they are popping up in gardens all over town.

But there’s a teeny little chore associated with having these plants which greatly enhances the tidiness of the plants and keeps them healthy and looking good over time.

This simple task is to cut back the previous year’s foliage and flowering stems.

H_x_hybridus_needs_haircut

A “before” picture of the Lenten rose (Helleborus x hybridus), taken in January. See the winter-damaged leaves? Those can go. Then you’ll be able to see those little pink flower buds as they develop into lovely flowers. If you didn’t do this in February, that’s okay – you can do it now. Just feel the leaves – keep the fresh green ones and remove the tough old leathery ones.

With the Lenten rose (Helleborus x hybridus), cut the previous year’s foliage back to the base right as the flowers begin to emerge in January or early February. This lets you really see the flowers and also prevents a fungal disease that can spread from the old leaves (if you leave them on) to the new leaves. So if you were “in-the-know,” you would have cut the old leaves off then. If not… well, you can do it now!

Honeyhill_cut_back_hellebores

This photo of a patch of Lenten rose (H. x hybridus), taken in February, shows the foliage already cut back. New foliage appears in February to April.

The Christmas rose (H. niger) flowers in late December or early January but the flowers look pretty for months. Cut flowering stems and old foliage back as the new growth emerges and flowers fade, from February through April. Or, whenever you get to it. (Hellebores are amazingly forgiving.)

The old flower stalks of the “stinking hellebore” or, more politely, the bear’s claw hellebore (Helleborus foetidus) can be cut back about now, if you haven’t done it yet.

All other kinds of hellebores… now is the ideal time to cut back the foliage, as the flowering season for these late types ends. The late types include the Corsican hellebore (H. argutifolius) and hybrid hellebores like H. x sternii.

Half_cut_back_hellebore

This image shows a half cut back hellebore (H. argutifolius ‘Silver Lace’). Foreground: the tough, leaning old flower stalks that are nearing the end of their season (to be cut back). Background: the old flowering stalks have already been removed and you can see the new leaves.

Here’s how to cut back a hellebore:

Get your clippers and cut all the tough older leaves and flowering stems at the base. You’ll see the soft, tender new foliage emerging from the center of the plant – keep this, as it will replace the tough outer stems and leaves that you cut off. If in doubt about which is which, feel it. The old foliage feels tough, leathery, hard. The new growth is flexible and soft! Don’t be alarmed if the new foliage is sort of wilty-looking. It’s been growing underneath the shelter of the old foliage. Just give it a few days in the wind, rain and sunshine and it will toughen up.

You can also leave some old flowers on the plant so the seeds can ripen. Especially with the Lenten rose, you’ll often end up with a little forest of seedlings underneath the mother plant the following spring. Dig them up and share them with friends or spread them around your own garden.

Cutting off the old stems and leaves keeps the plant tidier. It also keeps hellebores healthier, as it gets too congested and invites disease and aphid infestation. So give it a quick clean-up in spring and your plant will look better – and flower better next winter.

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Tags: Get Dirty

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