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get dirty

Clean Up That Garden

and make way for winter flowers!

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Helleborus_argutifolius_silver_lace

Silver Lace Corsican hellebore (Helleborus argutifolius ‘Silver Lace’) just a week or two shy of cracking open its cupped, apple green blossoms. Like other “shrubby” hellebores, this one needs no trimming until after flowering is over.

Recently, accomplished gardener friends on Facebook have been proudly announcing that they have completed their late winter garden clean-up.

I usually wait til the first week of February to cut back ornamental grasses and tidy up for the bulbs. But this winter was particularly brutal – ornamental grasses were prematurely knocked down and the early freezes left dead leaves lingering like dirty hankies on trees and shrubs that usually drop them cleanly.

My thoughts may still be on the plants I saw in Mexico, but even I can now see what’s before me in my Portland garden: glistening white buds of snowdrop are appearing through a haze of dead foliage and my Lenten roses (Helleborus x hybridus) are way ready to be done with last year’s tatty old leaves.

Hellebore_before_photo

At this time of the year, Lenten roses (Helleborus x hybridus) can look pretty scrappy. What to do? Use sharp clippers to cut off last year’s foliage at ground level – be careful to retain new flower buds rising from the center. Removing old helps keep new foliage free of fungal disease and removes the “clutter” so you can see the emerging flowers.

Garden clean-up is a subtle art and its timing is a bit different every year, depending on the weather and the gardener’s level of fervor. With the exception of old-fashioned peonies, irises, roses and certain other disease-prone plants, I leave old plant stalks and stems standing in winter to provide cover, perching posts and forage for birds and insects.

Hellebore_after_picture

Lenten rose (Helleborus x hybridus) flowers are much easier to see when last year’s leathery old leaves have been cut off. At this point, they’re just barely showing their faces – in a month, they’ll be in their full finery.

But there comes a point when I’ve had it and I am suddenly sick of the sight of scrappy stems, seed heads that have been stripped bare by hungry birds and black, slimy leaves matting my garden beds. I want to see what’s new – every tiny green tip of the early bulbs pushing through the earth invigorates me more and I grab clippers and a rake.

First_snowdrops_

It’s hard to see the tiny flower buds of these snowdrops (Galanthus) – that’s why I like to clean up the dried grasses and dead leaves around my bulbs at this time of the year. I wouldn’t want to miss any of the action!

Luckily, winter clean-up is an easy and very gratifying project! With clippers, I cut back the Lenten rose-type hellebores, grasses and other spent foliage that obscures the hopeful little green stems of early-rising bulbs. (If you don’t know what kind of hellebores you have, just remember: the ones to cut back in winter have flower stems rising on leafless stems, directly from the center of the plant. If the flowering stems have leaves on them, as with the Silver Lace type pictured above, wait until they are finished flowering to cut them back to the base – usually in April or May.)

After cutting last year’s foliage back, I rake up all the debris and plunk it in the shrub beds behind the garage or in my compost heap in the back yard. Keep in mind that those Lenten rose type-hellebore leaves will take longer to decompose, as they are kind of leathery so chop them up into smaller pieces or put them on the bottom of the pile so they break down faster. If you don’t have a compost pile or bin, you can always add the debris to your yard debris bin – but since any wet, dead leaves you raked up are half-way to compost anyway, you may as well keep them around to enrich your own garden soil.

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Tags: Outdoor Gardening, Gardening Tips, winter-interest-plants

Get Dirty

Perennials That Flop

here’s what to do

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Splayed_daisy

It was a great year to see shasta daisies (Leucanthemum x superbum) fall apart – especially the old-fashioned, double-flowered types. Staking the plants in April or May would have helped, as would planting strong, upright neighboring plants around them. And pinching back the tips of daisy stems in May helps keep plants up on their “feet”, too.

Some perennials don’t stand up straight on their own.

It’s maddening but true. Many shasta daisies, tall Sedum, Baptisia and a host of other perennials get tipsy as the season progresses – stems elongate, flower buds become heavy and spindly stems bend to the ground. Either the outer stems fall or the whole plant splays out, squashing its neighbors and leaving a bald spot in the middle of the plant.

It’s usually brought on by a dry spell followed by rain (or over-watering), or wind + rain. And some plants are just prone to it even in the best of conditions.

Many seasoned gardeners simply avoid plants that splay, searching perennial tables for simliar-looking plants with sturdier stems. Other tricks to prevent perennials from flopping:

- provide plants with enough sun – most plants that lean are leaning towards the light they’re lacking.

- amend soil to improve drainage. Heavy clay soil can cause plants to root shallowly to avoid root suffocation. Adding organic matter or pumice can improve drainage so plants send roots down deep into the soil.

- don’t overdo fresh compost or fertilizer – overly rich soil (=high in Nitrogen) results in lush, squishy growth which topples easy.

- provide steady water – many perennials tip when they receive water after a significant dry spell. Cells plump up with water and weigh down stems, causing toppling. Water sitting on large flower heads can also weigh them down – use drip or hand-water roots.

- flopping can be a signal that it’s time to divide perennials. If the clump is starting to look intimidating, it’s probably time to divide.

- most importantly: when planting tippy plants, use nearby plants for scaffolding. If you have a tall daisy that flops every year, surround it with stiff, upright perennials like Aster divaricatus or erect ornamental grasses like Miscanthus sinensis that will help support the sides of the stems.

- most perennial plants can be pinched or cut back early in the season to encourage shorter, stronger stems. See “The Well-Tended Perennial Garden: Planting & Pruning Techniques” by Tracy DiSabato-Aust (Timber Press). This book provides detailed instructions on tip pruning perennial plants to prevent splaying and leaning. While the technique can sometimes delay flowering, it can be quite nice to enjoy flowers a little later in the summer.

And now, back to the present: what to do with floppy perennials now?

Sedum_staked

Sedum ’Postman’s Pride’ (dark purple) interplanted with Sedum telephium ssp. ruprechtii. See angled, slender bamboo stakes holding up stems.

For perennials under 2 feet, try making a lattice fence comprised of 2-foot long slender bamboo twigs pushed deeply at a 45 degree angle in the ground, criss-crossing each other. It usually suffices to hold up the first foot of stems. This is the least obtrusive solution and you can barely see it when done with care. You can just make the little lattice fence on the side that needs to be propped up.

Sedum_from_above

From above, you don’t see the unobtrusive bamboo “fence” holding up the sedums.

A similar idea: pea stakes. Pea stakes are small, forked twigs about 1-2 feet tall that you push into the ground. I like to harvest branches from hazels, dogwoods, and manzanita – the gnarlier, the better. Pea stakes work great for lax, airy plants 2-3 feet high, like Clematis recta and low-growing sweet peas.

Need something taller or more sturdy? Try bamboo or 1×1 wood stakes and twine. Rather than circling the plant with twine (use green garden twine or brown jute), which can make the plant look strangled, criss-cross the twine through the stakes and stems to provide internal support, cat’s cradle style.

Don’t have time to fuss with stakes and twine? Buy commercial metal stakes – there are many kinds. For single flower stems of plants like lilies, try the single stake with a little loop at the top to capture the stem. (Plant in full sun, though, and your lilies will rarely flop.) For a leaning perennial clump,try the linking metal stakes, which allow you to encircle the plant section by section. (The peony cages and commercial “cat’s cradle” style supports are best set up in spring when plants are just a few inches high; trying to stuff bunches of foliage into the hoop is a challenge – and results in a pretty bad look – at this time of year.)

Staking “tips”

Part of the problem with using unobtrusive, thin stakes is that you might not see them while gardening. Poking one’s eye out on a sharp stick is not said to be fun and it happens more than you might think. Ask an eye surgeon! In England, you can buy all kinds of rounded stoneware and terra cotta safety tops for stakes, designed to prevent eye damage. I would suggest exploring all the cultural tips to prevent floppy perennials before resorting to stakes, especially metal ones.

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Tags: Gardening Tips

plant of the week

Relax – It’s Lavender Time

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Avh-lav
Photo: Andy Van Hevelingen

Spanish lavender

Early July is the height of the lavender flowering season – the perfect time to learn about the many different lavender types.

Lavender is a plant of many virtues. It’s a beautiful evergreen herb with a scent that leaves some of us susceptible types weak-kneed. It has interesting culinary uses – not just in jams and jellies but in pastry and savory dishes, as well. (A friend of mine makes a delectable lavender shortbread.) The scent of lavender is said to be relaxing – and actually, has been proven to be so (in part because we associate it with being relaxing – the human mind is a wondrous thing!) As a landscape plant, lavender is tough, drought-tolerant, fast-growing and useful in myriad garden settings, particularly low-water, mediterranean-style plantings.

But there’s even more that’s interesting about lavender. For one, there are over three hundred species and varieties in cultivation and, within those 300 some plants, there’s great variety in flowering time, form, flower and foliar color and even fragrance.

I asked herb expert and grower Andy Van Hevelingen of Van Hevelingen Herb Nursery for a summary of the three main types and their best uses.

1. Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas types)
Blooming in May, Spanish lavenders make 3-4 foot free-flowering landscape plants producing pine cone-like flower with two “flags” or “rabbit ears” on top – striking in bouquets and in the garden. Flowers range from pure white to purple, pink and reddish purple and bicolors with blues, whites and various shades of purple. It has a resinous, camphor-y scent.

2. English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
Flowering in June and July, English lavenders make perfectly mounded, knee-high shrubs to 8-10 inches high with relatively short flower spikes rising just above that height. Flowers range from pure white to pink, blue, purple and deep purple. Flowers may be dried, enjoyed fresh in bouquets, and used in cooking and oils. These are also the cold-hardiest lavenders – at least one down to -25F without cover. English lavender, with its classic, sweet scent, produces the most desirable oil and is used in higher quality lavender products.

3. Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia)
Flowering in July, lavandins are hybrids between L. angustifolia and L. latifolia and don’t produce seed – instead, plants are propagated by cutting. Colors are limited to pure whites and medium purple shades. These are big, dramatic shrubs, reaching hip or chest height when in flower. Because they are larger, they produce more flowers and oil and are important commercially. A classic lavandin, Grosso, is the source of 70% of the world’s lavender oil market, much of which is used in detergents and soaps.

Andy’s lavender tips:

Plant lavender in full sun (6-8 hours of sun keeps plants compact and free-flowering)

Provide excellent drainage to improve longevity and survival through extra-wet winters such as the one we just experienced.

Shear or trim lavenders back directly after flowering. For Spanish lavender, cut it back in late June (or now); for English lavender, cut it back in a week or so; and the lavandins can be cut back in about 3 or 4 weeks, as they finish blooming.

Additional thoughts: Hedge shears speed up the job. Go for a slightly rounded yet flattened, pancake-like form. Lavenders rarely respond well to cutting deep into old wood so light annual shearing works better than a radical haircut when the plant’s already too far gone.

Visit Andy Van Hevelingen’s booth at this weekend’s Yamhill Lavender Festival in historic Yamhill running Saturday July 10 from 10 – 9 and Sunday July 11 from 10 – 5. Since it’s in the heart of wine country, be ready to tipple – there will be local wine tasting, as well as booths with specialty lavender treats, crafts, and bouquets.

Or check out this list for lavender destinations all over the greater Willamette Valley during the Oregon Lavender Festival. Lavender farms will be open from Hood River to Sauvie Island and the West Hills nearly down to Southern Oregon. During the festival, each farm will offer its own lavender specialties, whether plants, crafts, or bouquets.

Final note: I’ve been asked about the beautiful, deep purple, compact lavenders flowering around town right now. These are English lavender types – Andy said some of the darkest include the old-fashioned Hidcote, as well as some seven or eight other dark purple cultivars including Royal Velvet, Lodden Blue, Baby Blue and a new (patented), very compact dark purple called Thumbelina Leigh.

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Tags: Gardening Events, Gardening Tips, Garden Visits, Herbs

edible gardening

Grafted Tomatoes

An old-fashioned technique with a new use for home vegetable gardeners

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Tomatograftclip-profileweb

There’s a new craze in grafted tomato plants this spring: – read about it here.

Grafting is an old-fashioned horticultural technique: it’s basically splicing plants, just like audio tape used to be spliced. It allows you to grow the desirable plant you want on a more vigorous root stock so you get faster (or slower) growth, disease resistance, and better or more fruit or flowers.

Fruit trees are often grafted to keep the tree height in check or improve vigor or adaptability. Wine grapes are nearly always grafted onto tough Vitus labrusca rootstock. Some roses are grafted, as well as witch hazels and many other ornamental plants.

Grafting tomatoes is a great idea for gardeners with tiny spaces or just room for one or two containers but who want more than one type of fruit (for example, a red cherry tomato and a yellow pear tomato): you can get more than one variety on a single plant. It’s also said to increase productivity so it could be nice for people who want lots of, say, Brandywine tomatoes, not just three per plant per summer (typical for this sometimes touchy but exquisitely desirable heirloom tomato).

The rootstocks used on grafted tomatoes are also disease resistant so should you have disease issues in your soil, the grafted plants might do better for you.

Apparently, vegetable grafting has been going on in commercial settings for years, both in the US and Europe. Eggplants and peppers are probably coming up next – stay tuned. Meantime, grafted tomatoes are available now at retail nurseries where Log House Plants are sold. They cost several times more than regular plants but you’ll be in the vanguard this spring and will definitely have bragging rights! I’m dying to see photos of producing plants so be sure to send me a photo if you try these grafted plants.

And here’s a video showing how tomatoes are grafted, courtesy of Johnny’s Seeds via Log House Plants:

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Tags: Vegetables, Gardening Tips, Container Gardening, Edible Gardening

good gardening

Planting for Pleasure

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Jasmine_on_back_stoop

What a surprise — it’s raining torrentially again today!

Instead of being out making gardens, I find myself inside the house, staring balefully out at the rain and cursing.

A little while ago, I opened the back door to shake a fist at the sky, in good family tradition, and noticed something wonderful… the poet’s jasmine vine (Jasminum officinale ‘Affine’) that I planted about three years ago is finally doing what I originally fantasized it would do: twining voluptuously up the old ladder leaning against the back of the house and around the back door stoop, as well as up and around my bathroom window.

What’s so great about this twining business, you ask? Well, sitting on the back stoop with a cup of tea or glass of wine or soaking in the tub on a June evening while basking in the heady, intoxicating scent in jasmine provides a direct line to happiness in my book.

While the rain is miserable and we are all saying we are done with it – as if our wishes on this subject mattered one iota – at least being stuck in the house allowed me to notice that this fabled plant, beloved to Cleopatra (the fragrance neroli is derived from jasmine – oops, correction: neroli is derived from orange blossom, not jasmine! – but jasmine was reputedly beloved to Cleopatra!) is blossoming and twining as I’d always hoped it would.

So what’s to learn from this story? You can feed your appreciation for and connection to the garden by planting what you love in the places you where you spend your most precious time. This is one very important facet of gardening: cultivating beauty, appreciation and nourishment of the soul and senses.

Jasmine_close-up

Rich purple new growth in spring, soft pink buds and pure white, intensely fragrant flowers – there’s clearly much to love about cold-hardy, semi-evergreen Jasminum officinalis ‘Affine’. Once established, it’s also tolerant of summer heat and drought – perfect for a climate like Portland’s.

For you, maybe stepping out the back door and plucking ripe grapes from the vine would be the height of gardening pleasure. Or gathering bunches of fresh herbs for dinner or admiring the imposing, muscular architectural forms of spiky succulents. For me, it’s inhaling the scents of the Mediterranean – jasmine, as well as plants like Cistus and thyme, all producing floral or foliar scents that send me back to happy experiences with family and friends. That’s why the three plants closest to my back stoop, where I love to sit, are… jasmine, Cistus and thyme.

To create more joyful spaces in your garden, start small – perhaps just with your own back stoop. There, plant the beginnings of an oasis that will nourish you from the inside – something you can experience right when you step outside your door. What might that be? Then – and this is most important – take the time to appreciate it and drink it in as it grows.

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Tags: Flowers, Outdoor Gardening, Gardening Tips

Well Hello, Sweet Pea!

it’s pea-planting time in Western Oregon

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Blackdiamond

Black Diamond sweet pea from Fragrant Garden Nursery

Wise old salts say you should plant your sweet peas – and edible peas, while you’re at it – around Presidents’ Day in our region. But there are still many good weeks of planting time. It’s just that, the later in spring you plant, the fewer weeks you’ll have to enjoy the results. Late March is usually still good… but mid- to late February is perfect.

Sweet peas are easy little annual vines. They grow during the cool, wet days of spring and flower in late spring and early summer. By the time the heat of July hits, they usually peter out. But they are so gloriously fragrant and beautiful that it’s all worth it. They are also incredibly easy to grow.

So pick up some packets of sweet peas. I say “packets” because who are we kidding? The pictures are gorgeous and sweet peas really are picture perfect in the garden. Why stop at the Royal Family mixed colors when you can also try the heirloom Painted Lady (hot pink and pale pink bicolor), Cupani’s Original (purple and mauve bicolor) and the indescribably lovely Saltwater Taffy Swirls (white stripes on apricot, purple and pink)?

Chocflake

Chocolate Flake sweet pea from Fragrant Garden Nursery

Fantastic local sweet pea vendors include Fragrant Garden Nursery (Roseburg, OR), Nichols Garden Nursery (Albany, OR), and – a little less local but still fabulous – Renee’s Garden (Felton, CA). You can order them directly on line too but most local nurseries carry a great selection.

You can lightly sand the seed coat and/or soak the seeds for an hour in warm (110 F) water to help soften the seed coat but it isn’t necessary. Also, some people start them indoors. I usually plant them directly in the ground.

To plant sweet peas outdoors, here’s what to do:

  • * get your sweet pea seeds. Also, a sack of mushroom compost or composted cow manure (or use your own home-made garden compost) and some non-toxic, pet-safe Sluggo slug bait to protect sprouts from slugs.
  • * grab a shovel and a trowel. Maybe a pair of gloves.
  • * find a spot that receives at least a full morning of sun and where there’s something for the sweet pea plants to climb. This could be a trellis, chain link fence, or other plants (sweet peas will scramble up a sturdy shrub in a loose, rambly kind of way). If your fence is flat surfaced, drive nails on the top and bottom and tie rough string between the nails so the vines have some thing to climb. Or – after digging (next step) – make a bamboo stake “tee-pee” with rough string encircling it so the tiny tendrils can cling to something.
  • * dig up the ground at least a foot deep and wide – more if you’re planting a whole packet of seeds. Sweet peas really show off if you enrich the soil – so pile on the compost and dig away! Do chop up native soil clods so the soil feels nice and crumbly and is dark with the fresh compost you’ve added. Space seeds about two inches apart.
  • * Press the seeds in with your fingers, about an inch deep. They are pretty large and easy to handle. If the forecast predicts rain in the next 24 hours, you don’t even need to water them in.

WIthin 10-20 days, your sweet peas will sprout. Scatter some Sluggo around the sprouts when they come up. It’s amazing to watch how quickly they rise out of the ground so keep an eye out!

Seeds_on_table

This is what my dining room table looks like every February. (Sweet peas are front and center!)

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Tags: Vegetables, Outdoor Gardening, Nurseries, Gardening Tips

plant files

Air Plants

wierd and wonderful pineapple relatives

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Baskets_of_bromeliads

I spied these unusual air plants (Tillandsia ) at the Seattle garden show and made a bee-line for them. Turns out the grower, Owens Gardens from Monroe, WA was at Portland’s Yard, Garden & Patio Show, too.

Tillandias are made up of spidery green to gray rosettes of foliage that can be fine and grassy, spidery and twisted or thick and fleshy like a succulent. Blossoms emerge in flattened bracts that range in color from pale pink or lavender to orange or sizzling hot pink, sometimes with contrasting blue and violet flowers at the tips.

Suspended_bromeliads


Air plants come by their name because they do not root themselves in soil. Instead, they attach themselves to rocks, trees and sometimes, in urban areas, buildings and phone lines. From these positions, they draw the moisture and nutrients they need from rain, runoff and ambient humidity using tiny hairs growing on their leaves. Air plants are tropical and subtropical “epiphytes” and most come from Central and South America. If you’ve been to the Southern US, you’ve probably seen another type of air plant, Spanish moss (Tillandsia usneoides) trailing from the branches of evergreen oak trees. Air plants’ roots exist solely to anchor them to rocks and trees.

Bromeliads

Hopefully this spot will provide all the bright light, good air circulation and humidity these plants need. Tillandsia medusae (center), Tillandsia aeranthos (on right) and Tillandsia stricta (on left)

Caring for these odd little treasures is easy. They require bright, indirect light (no blasting afternoon sun). And they need to be drenched with a squirt-bottle 1-3 times per week (depending on ambient humidity and heat). If you fertilize them 1-2 times per month in spring and summer with 1/4 strength, high phosphorus fertilizer, you should be rewarded with flowers. Since they are tender, they should be protected from frost. While they live indoors all winter, they do appreciate summer vacation outdoors. Just drench them with a hose a few times a week.

I’ve seen them in shops, artfully nestled into beautiful shells and wee baskets, affixed to stones or pieces of pottery, and tucked into small glass terrariums. (This latter idea isn’t so good for very long, as they do require brisk air circulation.) But I just settled mine in the shower caddy in my sunny bathroom next to a window. It required no effort on my part to set up and I get to regularly admire them up close and personal. All I need to do is douse them with water (cold, of course!) a couple of times a week and give them fertilizer a couple of times a month in winter. Easy!


Owens Tillandsia Nursery doesn’t have an online store but they do sell directly at garden shows and plant sales. Call them at 360-794-6422 for more information. Locally, try Artemisia Garden Nursery and PIstils Nursery.

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Tags: Nurseries, Gardening Tips, Indoor Gardening

upcoming events

Valerie Easton Speaking in Portland

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Easton_alt2_auphoto_koch016

Do you dream of having a restful, beautiful garden without spending all your free time laboring in it? Or do you feel like your existing garden requires more work than you’d like?

Seattle garden writer Valerie Easton will speak to these very issues at Reed College on Saturday, January 23rd at 10 am. Part of the Hardy Plant Society of Oregon’s winter lecture program, the talk accompanies the publication of Easton’s latest book, The New Low-Maintenance Garden: How to Have a Beautiful, Productive Garden and the Time to Enjoy It (Timber Press).

Nlmg

The lecture promises inspiring images showing how nourishing, restful and bountiful spaces can be created – and which only require the amount of maintenance you’re able to provide.

Kaul Auditorium, Reed College
3203 SE Woodstock Blvd, Portland 97202
Program begins at 10:00 a.m.
Doors open at 9:00 a.m. for plant, book and seed sales
$15 for HPSO members, $20 nonmembers

If you’d like to join the Hardy Plant Society of Oregon, you’ll discover myriad other benefits including an annual bulletin, discounted gardening classes and lectures, and – my favorite – the Open Gardens, wherein you can visit other gardeners’ spaces on weekends and evenings throughout the year. Membership is $25, $35 or $40, depending.

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Tags: Gardening Events, Garden Stuff, Gardening Tips

garden projects

There’s Still Time!

…to plant bulbs

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Narcissus_la_belle

Here’s why you should get down on your hands and knees and plant your bulbs – if you haven’t already!

I spent the weekend visiting friends at their farm down by Florence, Oregon. It was a relaxing weekend, thanks for asking. But it wasn’t all fun and games. I learned something about my dear friend that I hadn’t known: she hides things from me. Specifically, bulbs that she hadn’t planted.

Last fall, I had placed a large bulb order with Brent & Becky’s Bulbs. My friend had added a request for some of her own – some daffodil, muscari, snowdrops, foxtail lily and a couple of other delicious little treats.

In October or so, my friend – henceforth to be known as “Wicked Ms. Naughty,” to spare her the shame of personal exposure – made off to the farm with her treasures and I heard nothing more about them. Until I arrived for my little visit on Saturday morning. While snooping around in an unheated room off the kitchen, I discovered a bag brimming with the very bulbs she had ordered last fall. There they sat, wrapped in their little net bags, with sad leaf sprouts twisting in a tortured fashion out from their hideous plastic incarceration.

A short lecture later (about the nature of friendship and how such things should never be hidden from friends), we were outside digging. I was able to reassure her that the bulbs were almost all still in good shape. I squeezed the bulbs and nearly all of them were still reasonably firm and solid. Some, of course, were sprouting; others were a little too shriveled and I imagine there will be some loss. Fortunately, they were in a cool, dark place with a bit of air circulation, thanks to the net bags.

We probably planted about 75 bulbs and I suspect that most of them will be fine.

Bag___shoots

This is what Muscari latifolium looks like when it’s been left in the bag too long. But I have high hopes for its recovery, once it’s tucked in to a blanket of earth.

However, they will flower later than bulbs planted in October and November (especially the early types like crocus and snowdrops), and some of the flowers or foliage may be a little twisted or stunted. But chances are, almost all of them will recover within a year and flower properly and at the normal time in 2011.

So if you are among the wicked and have been hiding your unplanted bulbs in a secret place so that nobody will see them and discover your neglectful ways, may I offer advice? Yes? Well, it is this: take a fearless inventory of your unplanted bulbs right now. As long as you get to it lickety-split, you can probably salvage things. Remove them from the bag, spread them out and feel them. Yes, feel them up. Good bulbs are usually plump, firm and somewhat heavy. It is not a good sign if they have dry, greenish-blue mold on them and collapse with a little “puff” when squished or if they have rotten patches on them and smell foul. It’s true, there are a few bulbs, such as Anemone, that are naturally shriveled. But for most bulbs, shriveled and rubbery are not desirable qualities.

Once you’ve taken a bold inventory, felt them up and discarded the undesirables, it’s time to get out your shovel, pull on your boots and get planting.

Planting_bulbs

Once you lay out your bulbs, the planting’s pretty quick!

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Tags: Flowers, Outdoor Gardening, Gardening Tips

Habitat

Our Feathered Friends

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Bird-opener

American goldfinch, chickadee, Stellar’s jay and Anna’s hummingbird – all common in various parts of the Portland area in winter

Just up on the Portland Monthly website – a piece I wrote about winter birds – Winged Wonders. I love Garrett’s stylish illustrations of our native bird species. Make sure you click on the slide show, as you’ll find pictured there eight lovely wild birds commonly seen in the Portland metro area in winter, along with information about their native habitats, plants they associate with, and their preferred food sources. These are valuable things to know about if want to entice these lively creatures into your garden.

Many people who feed birds wonder about the politics of feeding wild birds. Is it really good for them to be fed at feeders instead of foraging for their own wild foods? After all, we’re told not to feed ducks at Laurelhurst pond and seagulls at the beach. How do we know which birds to feed and when?

I suppose the rule would be: if you want to butt in to birds’ lives by feeding them, feed them what they would naturally eat. Larger birds such as ducks, geese, crows and seagulls can become a nuisance in parks and urban areas when attracted to the chunks of stale bread people toss them. Bread is also not a natural, nourishing food choice for wild birds. So this practice is not recommended.

Bird feeders stocked with appropriate seed or suet are perfectly good, though: “wild birds don’t need feeders; they need native food sources and habitat,” says Karen Munday at the Audubon Society of Portland. “The main benefit of feeders is that they allow people to see wild birds up close. And,” she adds, “hopefully that inspires people to protect crucial wild bird habitat in the long run.”

Birds_at_feeder

Bushtits (foreground) at suet feeder and sunflower hearts tube feeder; gold finches (back) at thistle feeder

So by all means, set up feeders that are appropriate to the birds you want to attract. Just remember that feeders aren’t the whole story – habitat is the crucial piece of the puzzle for wild birds. And while you shouldn’t worry too much about it, it is worth maintaining feeders during extreme winter weather – for although wild birds are resourceful, they are also creatures of habit, and prolonged frigid temperatures can stretch their resources. Meanwhile, start working on a sustainable plan to create a haven-like habitat for wild birds in your garden.

ATTRACT BIRDS TO YOUR GARDENNATURALLY
If you live adjacent to a park, forest or body of water, you probably need no tips on attracting wild birds to your garden – birds surround you. But should you not have forest, open fields, streams, ponds or other wild bird-attracting features around, you may need to work on it a bit. To that end, here are a few basic bird requirements:

Natural food sources Trees, shrubs and herbs that supply fruit, berries, nuts, flower nectar and insect populations that are edible to birds. Different plants attract different sets of birds. Native plants are preferable but many non-invasive ornamentals are also rich sources of food.

Water Water can range from a pond or stream to a simple, 1-inch deep pan of water that is kept clean and fresh. Running water, still water, streams, lakes and ocean each attract different species. You may consider investing in a bird bath heater. But why make life easy when you can run out every hour or two during sub-freezing spells to pour boiling water over your bird baths?

Shelter Depending on the bird, ideal shelter could include gravel or rocky areas, brush piles, hedgerows and shrubby thickets, fields of tall grass, weed patches, tall evergreen trees or tree snags. Another important element of shelter includes safety from non-native predators – and that means keeping domestic cats indoors. If that is not possible, at least keep them indoors during spring nesting season.

DIVERSITY IS KEY
Everything revolves around habitat – and plant – diversity. Monocultures of grass or one species of plant don’t make for good bird habitat, whether it’s a vast sea of lawn or a massive hedge of English laurel. A monoculture of invasive species like English ivy, Portuguese laurel or garlic mustard is even less hospitable, as invasive plants smother native plant habitat that did once support wildlife.

Habitat_waiting_to_happen

Habitat… waiting to happen

Habitat

Nectar and pollen diversity, as well as plants ranging from ground level to tree height. I bet there are a few tasty insects in there, too…

Not only species-diverse, but multi-layered plantings are best, with a tree canopy, shrub and herb under-story and ground-cover plants, as well as some bare soil for dust baths and grubbing around for insects. Tree canopies, wooded forest floor, brushy thickets, open areas and brush piles provide plenty of options for birds to feed, nest – and flit from one place to another to evade predators. And what’s good for the birds is good for the bees… and butterflies… and other creatures that comprise healthy, diverse habitat.

GETTING STARTED
Creating hospitable bird habitat is an ongoing process, not something you can do overnight. Start by setting up a bird feeder stocked with appropriate feed in a safe place. Soon, you’ll build a relationship with your local song bird population and begin identifying some of your avian visitors. You’ll notice which birds eat which feed – and what plants or areas of your garden serve as food or shelter for which birds. By observing the charming and complex behavior of wild birds in action, you will discover great delight during the cold, dark months of winter. The next step, naturally, is to seek out the plants and build the habitat that will sustain them in the future.

When I first began feeding winter birds, I worried that I was artificially luring them to stay in an otherwise inhospitable environment. Says the Audubon Society’s Karen Munday, “Birds come to Portland or stay in the area in the winter because of our mild, hospitable climate with good habitat and suitable natural food sources in the region – not because of an individual person’s bird feeder." In fact, most birds require a varied diet composed of seeds, fruit and insects. The importance of a varied diet is especially true for hummingbirds. “Hummingbirds can’t live on sugar water feeders alone: it simply provides them with an energy boost, the way a sugary candy bar does for a person. Hummingbirds need protein, minerals and vitamins supplied by insects, nectar in flowers, and other natural sources.

And since we live in an imperfect world, it must be said that there are some drawbacks associated with feeders. “Feeders artificially gather many birds into one place, which can lead to disease,” says Munday. “Birds fly to the feeder perch, eat, and poop – thereby transmitting any diseases there may be.” What to do? Scrub out feeders once per week with soapy water and then a solution of one part bleach to ten parts water. Allow it to dry completely before adding a one-week supply of fresh bird feed. The same goes for hummingbird feeders: every 4-5 days, wash and dry the feeder before setting it out again with about 4-5 days’ worth of sugar water. Suet should only be used during the cold months – or only set out enough to last a day. Rancid or melting suet is both unhealthy for birds and icky to clean up.

So feeders allow us to see and relate to birds and that is a wonderful thing. But still, natural food sources are best for birds. The Audubon Society encourages native plants as the optimal food sources for native insects and native birds, but there are non-native ornamentals that can be excellent sources of food and habitat.

Hummingbird

It’s easy to keep hummers supplied with natural nectar sources in summer. During freezing winter weather, it can be a challenge!

There are several sources of good native plant lists and other resources for attracting and supporting native wildlife:

East Multnomah Soil Water and Conservation District
City of Portland Native Plant List
Metro
Xerces Society (What’s good for bees, butterflies and pollinators is good for birds)

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Tags: Habitat, Wildlife, Gardening Tips

Garden Projects

Brrrr, cold nights ahead!

get out the frost cloth!

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This reddish-pink hebe (2006-2008) pitched it last winter. Probably, no amount of mulch would have helped it – it simply wasn’t a sufficiently cold-hardy plant.

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This reddish-pink hebe (2006-2008) pitched it last winter. Probably, no amount of mulch would have helped it – it simply wasn’t a sufficiently cold-hardy plant.

Remember the big freeze last year? The Portland area saw icy winds and temperatures in the teens and low 20s for days on end. I don’t know about you, but I lost a few plants: a voluptuous reddish-pink Hebe and a wonderfully weird Echium pininana which would have sent up a columnar, 10’ tall purple flower spike this past spring had it survived. I do realize that destruction is part of the rich tapestry of life in the garden… but it would have been nice to see them grow and flower this past summer.

Chances are, you already know that Portland’s climate sits within USDA hardiness Zone 8 (Sunset hardiness zone 6). The metro Portland area includes several zones including USDA Zone 8a (average annual minimum temps of 10-15F) and USDA Zone 8b (average annual minimum temps of 15-20F). So depending on where you live, you may have more or less need to protect tender plants.

If the plants in your garden survived last year outdoors, they are likely to survive this winter, too. Established USDA Zone 8 plants may show foliar “freezer burn” or die-back but generally their roots are strong and deep enough to carry them through. However, young and potted plants are another matter.

With last year’s weather-related dramas still fresh in my memory, here are a few suggestions for protecting plants if, as currently (Saturday afternoon) predicted, temperatures dip below 20 the next few nights. (The forecast keeps changing slightly so be sure to check.)

#1: water plants well prior to freezing weather. *Note: any fragile ceramic containers shouldn’t be drenched prior to a freeze, as they could crack or spall. Bring ‘em inside or just accept the risk. (I do the latter, unless it’s a very special pot.)

#2: mulch plants listed Zone 8 and planted in 2009. If it is evergreen (holds its leaves in winter), all the more reason to mulch.

  • To mulch, spread a 2-6 inch layer (depending on how anxious you feel) of bark fines, chopped leaves, or compost over the plant’s root zone. If the plant has a woody trunk (like a tree or shrub), keep the mulch an inch or so from the bark. You can buy bags of mulch and bark chips or bales of straw at local nurseries.

Some garden plants I would mulch, especially if planted in the past year or two:

- hardy banana (Musa basjoo_)
- palm tree (unless it survived last winter without cover – then don’t worry)
- most striped or colorful New Zealand flax (_Phormium sp
)
- anything Zone 8, planted in 2009, and evergreen. The smaller/shallower the roots, the more useful the mulch.

#3: If the plant is evergreen (keeps its leaves in winter), is reputedly touchy about cold OR is very dear to you, take extra precautions to protect the plant’s foliage. Purchase heavy duty frost cloth or Reemay. There are many plant-wrapping techniques. My method requires scissors to cut the cloth, wooden clothes pegs to secure the frost cloth around the plant, and some bricks or stones to hold the fabric around the base of the plant.

Cover a large area of plants with swathes of frost cloth, Christo-like, or wrap individual plants with pieces of frost cloth cut-to-fit. Secure the cloth snugly with clothes pegs so wind won’t blow it open. You can use more than one layer if needed but I usually stick to one. Use a couple of stones or brick to secure the cloth around the base of the plant or tuck it underneath the pot. Note: Don’t even try using plastic trash bags. I’ve seen it and it’s not pretty when you take it off.

You may want to protect some of your container plants. Any containers with USDA Zone 7/8 plants or broadleaf evergreens like, for instance, bay trees (Laurus nobilis_), Australian fuchsias (Correa sp._) or silver spear (Astelia sp.) would appreciate protection if temperatures drop below 20 for any length of time – especially if it’s a windy site.

Usually, the easiest choice is to move a pot into a cool basement, garage or entryway until the freezing weather passes. If the pot’s too large to move, snug the pot against a structure for protection or lean pieces of Styrofoam, cardboard or plywood against the container to break the wind and help insulate. At least, wrap the plants’ foliage with frost cloth. (See above.) If there are a number of plants in a container and you only need to protect one of them, you can sometimes dig the vulnerable plant out and stash it in a bucket in a cool basement or garage. Just be sure to cover the roots with extra soil if they are exposed after digging.

Stay warm!

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Tags: Outdoor Gardening, Gardening Tips

Horticultural Ed

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Dscn8942

Learn more about keeping goats in the city – one of 18 horticulture classes on offer this winter at P.C.C.

I returned from my Antipodal travels to a teetering stack of mail, on top of which sat the Portland Community College Winter 2010 class schedule. Naturally, I opened it up to the horticulture section to see what was on offer.

I was excited to see some really great classes. Quickie classes include “Goats in the City” (Sat 2/20, 9-1, Cascade campus); “How to Build a Compost Pile” (Mon 2/1, 6-8 pm, NW Portland campus); “Hands-On Bamboo” (Sat 3/6 10-12, NE Portland campus); “Garden Design for the Small Yard” (Wed 3/3 and 3/17, Willow Creek campus); and “Classic Soil Science” (Mon 3/1, 6-8 pm, NW Portland campus). Wow! Such classes would make fabulous holiday gifts: useful, fun and not too pricey (about $30 to $100).

A class or class series on canning and preserving the garden harvest would also make a great gift for any aficionado of food gardening. Learning to preserve the food you grow is the next step towards self-sustaining gardening and eating practices. There are many places to take canning and preserving classes, including Urban Growth Bounty, Zenger Farm, and Growing Gardens. These sources were suggested to me by Harriet Fasenfest, the creative energy behind Preserve and Portland’s First Lady of food preservation. Her “householding” classes may or may not happen next spring, but if they do, you will know it first by signing up on the Preserve website for her newsletter.

Florist Françoise Weeks offers classes throughout the year on flower arranging techniques and concepts. Her 2010 offerings should be posted right after Christmas. While the fall series is close to finished, there are two more gorgeous holiday wreath decorating classes (Mon Dec 7 and Tues Dec 8, 6:30-9pm, $75 includes an evergreen wreath plus orchids, cones, fruit, seed pods and other truly luxe decorating materials).

Finally, if you’re in the holiday mood and want to do some decorating, some local nurseries are offering relevant classes. They include Portland Nursery, which has wreath-making classes (Sat Dec 5 and Sun Dec 6, 1 pm, $20 includes wire wreath form and greenery, bring clippers) and Garden Fever. Garden Fever’s classes include creating “tiny winter gardens” composed of plants (Sat Dec 12, $29) and wreath-making (Sat Dec 19 and 20 from 1-2 pm, $20 includes wire wreath form and greenery, bring gloves).

Most classes can be purchased as gifts, either by paying for the individual class or by purchasing a gift certificate.

Have fun giving – or taking (classes)!

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