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PLANTWISE - December 2009

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plants in winter

The Gorge in Winter

the best possible gift

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Gorge_mts_nr_carson

For the holidays this year, I got out of town – and into the woods. A friend offered the gift of her lakeside cabin for a week. It was incredibly quiet and peaceful – perfect for reading books (I did a lot of that) and also for walking.

During my week’s stay, I explored the woods, slopes, steppes and riverbanks of the Columbia River Gorge. Prior to this trip, I’d never spent more than a day or two at a time in the Gorge. What a difference it makes to remain in one place for a length of time. In the winter, few people are around and the wintery austerity of rock, water and earth are heightened by the shifting weather. I grasped – as I had never quite done before – the utterly unique environment in the Gorge. Driving slowly from west to east and back again – many times – I had a chance to really observe the shift from the damp, forested west end of the Gorge to the dry woods and prairie land that predominate in the east. Considering that rainfall varies from about 40 inches per year in Portland to 14 inches per year in The Dalles, it should be no surprise that the plant life should also vary dramatically from one end of the Gorge to the other.

I was entranced by the exquisite colors of the native plants during their winter rest. I hope my photographs can convey just a taste of the beauty I saw at some of the stops.

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Snowberry fields forever… that’s what kept going through my mind when I saw this! I discovered these creeping snowberry (Symphoricarpus mollis) near the White Salmon River. It’s a great garden plant, too, with pretty blue-green, roundish leaves, tiny pinkish-white flowers and then these extraordinarily beautiful winter decorations – enjoyed, of course, by birds.

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Creeping snowberry (Symphorocarpus mollis) up close

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Walking through forest dripping with native epiphytes

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I’d heard that native manzanita grew in the Gorge but never seen it myself. I finally spotted this clump growing near Wind Mountain. That hairy manzanita (Arctostaphylos columbiana) grows in the Gorge is a testament to its wind-, drought- and cold tolerance. It’s easy to grow in gardens, given good drainage, a half to full day of sun and no supplemental summer water.

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Hairy manzanita up close – notice the sinewy, smooth, reddish bark. This clump of plants had particularly nice powdery blue leaves.

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Horsethief Butte area

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Wild roses, with their brilliant red stems and reddish orange hips, at Horsethief Butte

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Horsethief Butte

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I must look up the name of this grass. It was so beautiful, particularly set against the warm reddish twigs of the wild rose (background).

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Lichen-encrusted basalt and mosses

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Dried grasses and yarrow (Achillea millefolium)

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Oregon grape (Mahonia) and rose hips

If you would like to explore the Gorge, here are some resources:

Friends of Columbia River Gorge

The Nature Conservancy’s Tom McCall Nature Preserve

Also, the new schedule of classes and outings should be posted soon on the Berry Botanic Garden website. Every year, Berry holds several field trips to places of botanical and geological interest. Check back to the site for 2010 classes.

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Tags: Places to Go

Habitat

Our Feathered Friends

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Bird-opener

American goldfinch, chickadee, Stellar’s jay and Anna’s hummingbird – all common in various parts of the Portland area in winter

Just up on the Portland Monthly website – a piece I wrote about winter birds – Winged Wonders. I love Garrett’s stylish illustrations of our native bird species. Make sure you click on the slide show, as you’ll find pictured there eight lovely wild birds commonly seen in the Portland metro area in winter, along with information about their native habitats, plants they associate with, and their preferred food sources. These are valuable things to know about if want to entice these lively creatures into your garden.

Many people who feed birds wonder about the politics of feeding wild birds. Is it really good for them to be fed at feeders instead of foraging for their own wild foods? After all, we’re told not to feed ducks at Laurelhurst pond and seagulls at the beach. How do we know which birds to feed and when?

I suppose the rule would be: if you want to butt in to birds’ lives by feeding them, feed them what they would naturally eat. Larger birds such as ducks, geese, crows and seagulls can become a nuisance in parks and urban areas when attracted to the chunks of stale bread people toss them. Bread is also not a natural, nourishing food choice for wild birds. So this practice is not recommended.

Bird feeders stocked with appropriate seed or suet are perfectly good, though: “wild birds don’t need feeders; they need native food sources and habitat,” says Karen Munday at the Audubon Society of Portland. “The main benefit of feeders is that they allow people to see wild birds up close. And,” she adds, “hopefully that inspires people to protect crucial wild bird habitat in the long run.”

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Bushtits (foreground) at suet feeder and sunflower hearts tube feeder; gold finches (back) at thistle feeder

So by all means, set up feeders that are appropriate to the birds you want to attract. Just remember that feeders aren’t the whole story – habitat is the crucial piece of the puzzle for wild birds. And while you shouldn’t worry too much about it, it is worth maintaining feeders during extreme winter weather – for although wild birds are resourceful, they are also creatures of habit, and prolonged frigid temperatures can stretch their resources. Meanwhile, start working on a sustainable plan to create a haven-like habitat for wild birds in your garden.

ATTRACT BIRDS TO YOUR GARDENNATURALLY
If you live adjacent to a park, forest or body of water, you probably need no tips on attracting wild birds to your garden – birds surround you. But should you not have forest, open fields, streams, ponds or other wild bird-attracting features around, you may need to work on it a bit. To that end, here are a few basic bird requirements:

Natural food sources Trees, shrubs and herbs that supply fruit, berries, nuts, flower nectar and insect populations that are edible to birds. Different plants attract different sets of birds. Native plants are preferable but many non-invasive ornamentals are also rich sources of food.

Water Water can range from a pond or stream to a simple, 1-inch deep pan of water that is kept clean and fresh. Running water, still water, streams, lakes and ocean each attract different species. You may consider investing in a bird bath heater. But why make life easy when you can run out every hour or two during sub-freezing spells to pour boiling water over your bird baths?

Shelter Depending on the bird, ideal shelter could include gravel or rocky areas, brush piles, hedgerows and shrubby thickets, fields of tall grass, weed patches, tall evergreen trees or tree snags. Another important element of shelter includes safety from non-native predators – and that means keeping domestic cats indoors. If that is not possible, at least keep them indoors during spring nesting season.

DIVERSITY IS KEY
Everything revolves around habitat – and plant – diversity. Monocultures of grass or one species of plant don’t make for good bird habitat, whether it’s a vast sea of lawn or a massive hedge of English laurel. A monoculture of invasive species like English ivy, Portuguese laurel or garlic mustard is even less hospitable, as invasive plants smother native plant habitat that did once support wildlife.

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Habitat… waiting to happen

Habitat

Nectar and pollen diversity, as well as plants ranging from ground level to tree height. I bet there are a few tasty insects in there, too…

Not only species-diverse, but multi-layered plantings are best, with a tree canopy, shrub and herb under-story and ground-cover plants, as well as some bare soil for dust baths and grubbing around for insects. Tree canopies, wooded forest floor, brushy thickets, open areas and brush piles provide plenty of options for birds to feed, nest – and flit from one place to another to evade predators. And what’s good for the birds is good for the bees… and butterflies… and other creatures that comprise healthy, diverse habitat.

GETTING STARTED
Creating hospitable bird habitat is an ongoing process, not something you can do overnight. Start by setting up a bird feeder stocked with appropriate feed in a safe place. Soon, you’ll build a relationship with your local song bird population and begin identifying some of your avian visitors. You’ll notice which birds eat which feed – and what plants or areas of your garden serve as food or shelter for which birds. By observing the charming and complex behavior of wild birds in action, you will discover great delight during the cold, dark months of winter. The next step, naturally, is to seek out the plants and build the habitat that will sustain them in the future.

When I first began feeding winter birds, I worried that I was artificially luring them to stay in an otherwise inhospitable environment. Says the Audubon Society’s Karen Munday, “Birds come to Portland or stay in the area in the winter because of our mild, hospitable climate with good habitat and suitable natural food sources in the region – not because of an individual person’s bird feeder." In fact, most birds require a varied diet composed of seeds, fruit and insects. The importance of a varied diet is especially true for hummingbirds. “Hummingbirds can’t live on sugar water feeders alone: it simply provides them with an energy boost, the way a sugary candy bar does for a person. Hummingbirds need protein, minerals and vitamins supplied by insects, nectar in flowers, and other natural sources.

And since we live in an imperfect world, it must be said that there are some drawbacks associated with feeders. “Feeders artificially gather many birds into one place, which can lead to disease,” says Munday. “Birds fly to the feeder perch, eat, and poop – thereby transmitting any diseases there may be.” What to do? Scrub out feeders once per week with soapy water and then a solution of one part bleach to ten parts water. Allow it to dry completely before adding a one-week supply of fresh bird feed. The same goes for hummingbird feeders: every 4-5 days, wash and dry the feeder before setting it out again with about 4-5 days’ worth of sugar water. Suet should only be used during the cold months – or only set out enough to last a day. Rancid or melting suet is both unhealthy for birds and icky to clean up.

So feeders allow us to see and relate to birds and that is a wonderful thing. But still, natural food sources are best for birds. The Audubon Society encourages native plants as the optimal food sources for native insects and native birds, but there are non-native ornamentals that can be excellent sources of food and habitat.

Hummingbird

It’s easy to keep hummers supplied with natural nectar sources in summer. During freezing winter weather, it can be a challenge!

There are several sources of good native plant lists and other resources for attracting and supporting native wildlife:

East Multnomah Soil Water and Conservation District
City of Portland Native Plant List
Metro
Xerces Society (What’s good for bees, butterflies and pollinators is good for birds)

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Tags: Habitat, Wildlife, Gardening Tips

Holiday Gifts

Gifts for Gardeners

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Gardener_present

Artful pages from old gardening magazines make the ultimate ecological gift wrap – and very pretty, especially when torn out of the venerable “Gardens Illustrated” (my favorite for reading – and wrapping).

The best gardening gifts of all are simple things that are useful, well-made and pleasurable to use.

With the holiday season now upon us, I offer my list of handy tools and inspiration that gardeners at any level of expertise can appreciate.

Disclaimer: I’m not being paid or otherwise recompensed to tout any of these products. However, I did receive a Dramm revolver style hose end sprayer as a manufacturer’s sample in 2008. And thank Dog, since it turns out to be a vast improvement over the cheap plastic gizmos I was using. Thus – needless to say – my recommendation.

Herewith, my favorite gardeners’ holiday gift suggestions:

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Hand Master bamboo fabric and nitrile work gloves

Supple garden gloves
While nitrile gloves are not particularly “green,” they are indispensable items in a gardener’s tool bucket. Leather and canvas gloves may technically last longer but they are simply too thick and clumsy for detail work. Nitrile and fabric gloves are thin and flexible enough while still offering protection and last 4-6 months with daily use. My current favorites are made by Hand Master of bamboo fiber and nitrile. The fabric is lusciously soft and the gloves come in a happy array of colors. There’s nothing quite like pulling on a clean, new pair of gloves and digging in to a project. Oh yes, and they’re washable of course. $6.99 at Garden Fever.

Properly fitting bypass pruners
Felcos are the ne plus ultra of the bypass pruners (well, unless you can fork out hundreds for hand-made English tools). Felcos have much to recommend them: comfortable, bright red handles (hard to lose), many styles for different hand sizes and shapes, and the parts are replaceable. Local nurseries carry a selection of models, including for people with small hands. The cost runs about $20-65 a pair at local nurseries or order them directly on line at felcostore.com.

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The Felco #6 pruner (my favorite)

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Dramm Revolver hose end sprayer











Dramm hand watering trigger sprayers
For years, I used the plastic trigger sprayer that came with the hose when I bought my house. Several of the nozzle settings didn’t work and it leaked. Apparently, I hadn’t suffered enough, for I replaced it a few years ago with another cheap plastic trigger sprayer which not just leaked but viciously squirted. Again, frustration. Learn from my mistakes – and make a gardener happy – by giving a high-quality, brightly colored revolver hose end sprayer ($12.50). It makes watering a pleasurable activity instead of drudgery. Check out the color options and different models here and buy it from a local nursery like Portland Nursery or Cornell Farms.

High quality hand tools
I possess a small stable of hand-weeding tools and I carry them all with me in my tool bucket so I can select the right tool for the right job. My repertoire includes the yellow-handled Garden Bandit ($14.95); a hori-hori knife ($37.95); and a variation on the nejiri gama hoe ($15.95), all available from Territorial Seed Catalogue and some local nurseries. I should add that weeding tools oughtn’t be given as a hint! If you should wish to suggest to another that the garden might be weeded more diligently, I recommend giving the gift of a few hours of professional weeding help. Or, perhaps you may give a gift of your own assistance with weeding – along with a pair of marvelous new weeding tools, one for each of you!

While I haven’t used them myself yet, I have heard wonderful things about locally made, hand-forged tools from Red Pig Garden Tools Co. I plan to try them out this year.

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Gardens Illustrated Magazine

An inspiring gardening magazine subscription
I bet I’m not the only gardener who revels with delight in the latest issue of the exquisitely photographed Gardens Illustrated from England. $75 for a year’s subscription. For a more regional flavor, give a subscription to Pacific Horticulture, a smaller West Coast publication focusing on ornamental gardens and dry-land, Mediterranean landscapes as well as plant groups of interest to West Coast gardeners. $28 for a year’s subscription. I don’t currently subscribe to Organic Gardening Magazine but it does emphasize edible gardening, which would be of great support for a new vegetable gardener. About $24 for two years (12 issues).

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Valerie Easton’s new book, “The New Low-Maintenance Garden”. Image courtesy of Timber Press

A gardening book
I asked Susan Crittenden, manager at Powell’s Books for Home and Garden for her new book picks for holiday gift giving. Her recommendations include Valerie Easton’s new book “The New Low Maintenance Garden; How To Make a Beautiful, Productive Garden and Have Time To Enjoy It” (Timber Press, $19.95); John Greenlee’s inspiringly photographed “The American Meadow Garden: Creating a Natural Alternative to the Traditional Lawn” (Timber Press, $34.95); and “The Lives of Trees” by Diana Wells, with cultural, botanical and historic information about 100 fascinating trees (Algonquin, $19.95). Several Portland horticulturists have recently published books with Portland’s own Timber Press: Cistus Design Nursery owner Sean Hogan’s new book “Trees for All Seasons: Broadleaved Evergreens for Temperate Climates” (Timber Press, $39.95) is an essential for local gardeners wishing to learn more about the broadleaf evergreen repertoire. “Black Plants: 75 Striking Choices for the Garden” (Timber Press, $19.95) by Paul Bonine, co-owner of wholesaler Xera Plants, is a fun romp on the “dark” side of horticulture.

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A gift certificate to a local specialty nursery
It’s hard to go wrong with a gift certificate for plants! Disarm and tickle a favored friend with a gift certificate for marvelous and extraordinary plants at Cistus Design Nursery on Sauvie Island; Artemisia Garden Nursery and Gallery, with nature-inspired art and equally artfully chosen plants; and for a vegetable garden and orchard aficionado, the Urban Farm Store (they sell everything from organic soil and baby chicks to fertilizers, bird feed and vegetable starts).

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Shea butter or lanolin-infused gardeners’ hand cream
Strong hand cream isn’t a luxury for gardeners; it’s essential to slather on after a day of digging, particularly if you work without gloves. I like Crabtree & Evelyn’s Gardener’s Hand Therapy Cream with shea butter, $15.

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A bird feeder with a sack of high quality feed
For the gardener who already has a plethora of good tools and reading materials, try a good quality bird feeder and a sack of sunflower hearts from the gift shop at The Audubon Society or from The Backyard Bird Shop. (Easy-to-clean, Droll Yankee ring-pull tube feeders run about $30-$50, depending on size and no-mess sunflower hearts cost just under $25 for a 10 pound sack). Birds help keep insect populations under control and are part of the reason some gardeners plant anything at all!

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Tags: Garden Stuff

Frozen Landscapes

frozen but not necessarily dead

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Helleborus argutifolius ‘Silver Lace’

The ground may still be rock-hard and cold but all is not lost. This morning, I noticed plenty of lovely hellebores that are frozen solid but by no means dead – just hanging on until the the weather warms up so they can return to the slow, inexorable process of producing flowers.

Yes, there is damage and more will show up over the coming months. I can see the signs of it: the sad off-color of cell damage on the leaves of February daphne and some rock roses and hebes.

This has been a historic cold spell: Portland’s low of 13 degrees Thursday morning broke a record for cold that had been standing for 37 years. It was the seventh consecutive day of below freezing in Portland. And while the lack of wind during the past few days helped prevent some damage, it also permitted the Arctic air to really settle in. It remains to be seen what defoliates and what bites the dust this year.

…And we thought last year was bad…

Of course, while it’s fun to take risks and try growing interesting plants of unknown or untested hardiness, there are plenty of fabulously beautiful plants that are quite unfazed by the cold.

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Arctostaphylos

Undamaged and smashingly beautiful in my own garden right now are several rusty and bronze-tipped Arctostaphylos, silvery Olearia macrodonta, and bright golden and white variegated Elaeagnus pungens ‘Hosoba Fukurin’. Golden-flowered Mahonia x media ‘Winter Sun’ is even blooming away, if a bit limply!

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Mahonia x media ‘Winter Sun’

And that’s just a little sampler: there are just so many fantastic cold-tolerant winter flowering plants – and even more winter-interest plants whose bark, stems or berries offer color and sparkle in the winter garden.

If you’re thinking of adding some winter flowering plants to your garden, check out witch hazel (Hamamelis ); winter hazel (Corylus ); wintersweet (Chimonanthus ); winter viburnum (Viburnum x bodnantense and Viburnum farreri ); early spiketail (Stachyurus praecox ); Mahonia x media hybrids as well as our beautiful native Mahonia (known as Oregon grape), and winter apricot tree (Prunus mume ). And those, my friends, are only a few suggestions.

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Viburnum farreri ‘Album’ (syn. V. farreri ‘Candidissimum’) may look funky now (and yes, my plant’s still a gangly adolescent) but once the spicily fragrant white flowers open up on those handsome, chestnut stems, you’ll see why I like it so well!

OK, so the ground’s too hard to plant right now. But there’s no harm looking!

This weekend, I plan to stop in at a couple of local nurseries and have a wander around. Maybe I’ll visit somewhere I haven’t been in a while. I’ll bundle up, wear my mittens, pick up some hot chocolate or coffee, and enjoy the bracing air and the sweet scent of violas in the greenhouses.

If there’s a lucky gardener on your holiday shopping list, maybe you could do the same – and find just the right gift at a local nursery for a gardener you know. For as you, you garden-lover, know, there’s nothing more entrancing to someone who loves to dig in the ground than the promise of new life – in the form of a gift certificate to a plant nursery! And after this winter, there are bound to be a few empty spaces in our gardens.

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Tags: Outdoor Gardening, Native Plants

Garden Projects

Brrrr, cold nights ahead!

get out the frost cloth!

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Fried_hebe

This reddish-pink hebe (2006-2008) pitched it last winter. Probably, no amount of mulch would have helped it – it simply wasn’t a sufficiently cold-hardy plant.

View Slideshow » Illustration:

This reddish-pink hebe (2006-2008) pitched it last winter. Probably, no amount of mulch would have helped it – it simply wasn’t a sufficiently cold-hardy plant.

Remember the big freeze last year? The Portland area saw icy winds and temperatures in the teens and low 20s for days on end. I don’t know about you, but I lost a few plants: a voluptuous reddish-pink Hebe and a wonderfully weird Echium pininana which would have sent up a columnar, 10’ tall purple flower spike this past spring had it survived. I do realize that destruction is part of the rich tapestry of life in the garden… but it would have been nice to see them grow and flower this past summer.

Chances are, you already know that Portland’s climate sits within USDA hardiness Zone 8 (Sunset hardiness zone 6). The metro Portland area includes several zones including USDA Zone 8a (average annual minimum temps of 10-15F) and USDA Zone 8b (average annual minimum temps of 15-20F). So depending on where you live, you may have more or less need to protect tender plants.

If the plants in your garden survived last year outdoors, they are likely to survive this winter, too. Established USDA Zone 8 plants may show foliar “freezer burn” or die-back but generally their roots are strong and deep enough to carry them through. However, young and potted plants are another matter.

With last year’s weather-related dramas still fresh in my memory, here are a few suggestions for protecting plants if, as currently (Saturday afternoon) predicted, temperatures dip below 20 the next few nights. (The forecast keeps changing slightly so be sure to check.)

#1: water plants well prior to freezing weather. *Note: any fragile ceramic containers shouldn’t be drenched prior to a freeze, as they could crack or spall. Bring ‘em inside or just accept the risk. (I do the latter, unless it’s a very special pot.)

#2: mulch plants listed Zone 8 and planted in 2009. If it is evergreen (holds its leaves in winter), all the more reason to mulch.

  • To mulch, spread a 2-6 inch layer (depending on how anxious you feel) of bark fines, chopped leaves, or compost over the plant’s root zone. If the plant has a woody trunk (like a tree or shrub), keep the mulch an inch or so from the bark. You can buy bags of mulch and bark chips or bales of straw at local nurseries.

Some garden plants I would mulch, especially if planted in the past year or two:

- hardy banana (Musa basjoo_)
- palm tree (unless it survived last winter without cover – then don’t worry)
- most striped or colorful New Zealand flax (_Phormium sp
)
- anything Zone 8, planted in 2009, and evergreen. The smaller/shallower the roots, the more useful the mulch.

#3: If the plant is evergreen (keeps its leaves in winter), is reputedly touchy about cold OR is very dear to you, take extra precautions to protect the plant’s foliage. Purchase heavy duty frost cloth or Reemay. There are many plant-wrapping techniques. My method requires scissors to cut the cloth, wooden clothes pegs to secure the frost cloth around the plant, and some bricks or stones to hold the fabric around the base of the plant.

Cover a large area of plants with swathes of frost cloth, Christo-like, or wrap individual plants with pieces of frost cloth cut-to-fit. Secure the cloth snugly with clothes pegs so wind won’t blow it open. You can use more than one layer if needed but I usually stick to one. Use a couple of stones or brick to secure the cloth around the base of the plant or tuck it underneath the pot. Note: Don’t even try using plastic trash bags. I’ve seen it and it’s not pretty when you take it off.

You may want to protect some of your container plants. Any containers with USDA Zone 7/8 plants or broadleaf evergreens like, for instance, bay trees (Laurus nobilis_), Australian fuchsias (Correa sp._) or silver spear (Astelia sp.) would appreciate protection if temperatures drop below 20 for any length of time – especially if it’s a windy site.

Usually, the easiest choice is to move a pot into a cool basement, garage or entryway until the freezing weather passes. If the pot’s too large to move, snug the pot against a structure for protection or lean pieces of Styrofoam, cardboard or plywood against the container to break the wind and help insulate. At least, wrap the plants’ foliage with frost cloth. (See above.) If there are a number of plants in a container and you only need to protect one of them, you can sometimes dig the vulnerable plant out and stash it in a bucket in a cool basement or garage. Just be sure to cover the roots with extra soil if they are exposed after digging.

Stay warm!

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Tags: Outdoor Gardening, Gardening Tips

Horticultural Ed

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Dscn8942

Learn more about keeping goats in the city – one of 18 horticulture classes on offer this winter at P.C.C.

I returned from my Antipodal travels to a teetering stack of mail, on top of which sat the Portland Community College Winter 2010 class schedule. Naturally, I opened it up to the horticulture section to see what was on offer.

I was excited to see some really great classes. Quickie classes include “Goats in the City” (Sat 2/20, 9-1, Cascade campus); “How to Build a Compost Pile” (Mon 2/1, 6-8 pm, NW Portland campus); “Hands-On Bamboo” (Sat 3/6 10-12, NE Portland campus); “Garden Design for the Small Yard” (Wed 3/3 and 3/17, Willow Creek campus); and “Classic Soil Science” (Mon 3/1, 6-8 pm, NW Portland campus). Wow! Such classes would make fabulous holiday gifts: useful, fun and not too pricey (about $30 to $100).

A class or class series on canning and preserving the garden harvest would also make a great gift for any aficionado of food gardening. Learning to preserve the food you grow is the next step towards self-sustaining gardening and eating practices. There are many places to take canning and preserving classes, including Urban Growth Bounty, Zenger Farm, and Growing Gardens. These sources were suggested to me by Harriet Fasenfest, the creative energy behind Preserve and Portland’s First Lady of food preservation. Her “householding” classes may or may not happen next spring, but if they do, you will know it first by signing up on the Preserve website for her newsletter.

Florist Françoise Weeks offers classes throughout the year on flower arranging techniques and concepts. Her 2010 offerings should be posted right after Christmas. While the fall series is close to finished, there are two more gorgeous holiday wreath decorating classes (Mon Dec 7 and Tues Dec 8, 6:30-9pm, $75 includes an evergreen wreath plus orchids, cones, fruit, seed pods and other truly luxe decorating materials).

Finally, if you’re in the holiday mood and want to do some decorating, some local nurseries are offering relevant classes. They include Portland Nursery, which has wreath-making classes (Sat Dec 5 and Sun Dec 6, 1 pm, $20 includes wire wreath form and greenery, bring clippers) and Garden Fever. Garden Fever’s classes include creating “tiny winter gardens” composed of plants (Sat Dec 12, $29) and wreath-making (Sat Dec 19 and 20 from 1-2 pm, $20 includes wire wreath form and greenery, bring gloves).

Most classes can be purchased as gifts, either by paying for the individual class or by purchasing a gift certificate.

Have fun giving – or taking (classes)!

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Tags: Gardening Tips

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