EAT BEAT

DAY TRIPPER

Day Tripper: Wine Country Wonders

It’s possible to squeeze a relaxing vacation into a single day when Oregon’s thriving vineyards are less than an hour away from the city.

Posted by: Allison Jones on May 13, 2011 at 02:00PM 4 Comments

As the days get longer and the sun get a little less shy, we’re entering prime time for day trips throughout Oregon. May is the ideal time to take a weekend drive through Willamette Valley wine country, as last year’s vintages are being bottled and sipped for the first time, winemakers are celebrating Spring’s rebirth of the vines, and the scenic landscapes are coming to life after a long winter. Pop a CD into the car stereo, spend a leisurely day driving and sipping your way through Oregon’s best wine, enjoy a world-class meal, and be home before you can say “Cork it.”

Where to go: The winding highways between Newberg, Carlton, and Dundee are dotted with dozens of vineyards with weekend tasting room hours. Just 45 minutes from Portland, you’ll find yourself amidst rolling hills, classic red barns, and picturesque tasting rooms with views of the valley.

How to get there: From Portland, take 99W to Newberg, or take a few extra minutes for the scenic route. From Newberg, take Highway 240 towards Carlton, a scenic highway that will take you past several fantastic wineries.

Start Your Engines: Once you enter Newberg, fill up for your day of wine tasting with some of the best tacos in Oregon. Pastorcillos Tacos, a family-owned cart in downtown Newberg at the corner of Main and First, serves up sizzling tacos al pastor that will start your mini-vacation on the right foot. With homemade salsas that you’ll want to take home in a Big Gulp cup and just enough spice, Pastorcillos Tacos are as much a draw as the vineyards that surround the city.

Where to sip: After lunch, spend a few hours hopping from winery to winery and taking in the pastoral vistas. While you’re in Newberg, stop into Anam Cara’s tasting room for some truly excellent Riesling, then hit the road towards Carlton. Stop into Adelsheim VIneyards, Anne Amie Vineyards, and ArborBrook Vineyards for great views and serene sips.

In Carlton, check out Scott Paul Wines and Soléna Cellars tasting rooms for a casual lesson in Oregon wine from some true Pinot Noir experts. After an afternoon of wine, head back to Newberg for dinner.

Wind Down in Style: Located in a restored Victorian home in the heart of Newberg, the Painted Lady serves up a winning combination of traditional and modern to cap off a long day of wine tasting. A four-course tasting menu from talented husband-and-wife team Allen Routt and Jessica Bagley is like a spa treatment for your mouth; a relaxing tour through the best of regional produce, meats, and seafood. For a more casual experience, the Painted Lady team will be christening their new outdoor pizza oven and patio with summertime dinner parties throughout the season. The food is top-notch, and, if you’re up for more, the Oregon-heavy wine list can’t be beat.

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Tags: Wine, Food Find, wine country, Day Tripper

ON THE SCENE

IPNC Walks it Out

The International Pinot Noir Celebration brought the area’s top sips to Portland’s Central Eastside restaurants to kick off the sunny season.

Posted by: Allison Jones on May 02, 2011 at 01:00PM 1 Comments

The good people behind Oregon wine country’s annual International Pinot Noir Celebration sure made the most of yesterday’s glimpse of summer. The IPNC Pinot Walkabout brought out over a hundred Portland wine lovers for a Central Eastside food and drink relay race – fifteen of the area’s top Pinot pourers were paired with nibbles from Beaker & Flask, Noble Rot, and Simpatica Dining Hall. Tasters were encouraged to stroll between the neighborhood restaurants, and some of the area’s big names in wine and food were seen sipping their way through the afternoon. Check out our photos of the fun below!

If you missed the Walkabout, there are still tickets available for Passport to Pinot on Sunday, July 31. All 70 participating IPNC wineries will pour for Oregon’s largest outdoor wine tasting, and fifteen of the northwest’s top chefs will offer up summery pairings. This year’s Passport to Pinot chefs include Genoa’s David Anderson, Bar Avignon’s Jeremy Eckel, Ken’s Artisan Bakery’s Ken Forkish, June’s Greg Perrault, and many more. For ticket information, head over to the IPNC website.

Beaker & Flask’s bar hosted Adelsheim Vineyard, Amity Vineyards, Archery Summit, Bethel Heights Vineyard, and Erath wines. The event was a casual opportunity for wine lovers to get the inside scoop behind their favorite wines.

Beaker & Flask chef Benjamin Bettinger prepared plenty of treats for the afternoon’s revelers – saving time to try the wines for himself. Highlights included the smoked bone marrow and green garlic crostini and crispy pig ear snacks.

As the temperatures climbed and walkers worked up a sweat, Bethel Heights Vineyard’s 2009 Pinot Noir Rosé was a definite hit among the offerings at Beaker & Flask.

Simpatica hosted Rex Hill (that’s Mike Willison and Bill Hatcher of Rex Hill above), Sokol Blosser, Soléna Estate, Stoller Vineyards, and Yamhill Valley Vineyards wines.

Tasters received their own wine glass at every stop and were given 45 minutes to make their way around the room. After chatting and sipping through five wines at every stop, attendees were guided to the next location.

Noble Rot’s wine bar reputation and gorgeous views made it a natural stop on the tour. The rooftop restaurant hosted Elk Cove Vineyards, The Eyrie Vineyards, Lemelson Vineyards, Ponzi Vineyards, and R. Stuart & Co. wines.

Nobel Rot easily made the most of the sunny day, with expansive views of the Willamette River, downtown Portland, and the West Hills adding to the beauty of the afternoon.

PDX Pedicabs were on call to bring wine lovers from Point A to Point B. The Central Eastside tourism board should look into making these free all the time – or at least on gorgeous sunny Sundays!

All Images © Allison E. Jones

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Tags: Southeast Portland, Southeast Dining, Wine, Eastside Dining, wine country, Food Event

Best of PDX

Five Places I Love

Eat Beat’s newest gastrophile, Allison Jones, waxes poetic about her all-time favorite spots in Portland.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Apr 13, 2011 at 12:30PM 12 Comments

I dine out too much. Though once upon a time I was an avid home cook, these days I spend my time in tireless pursuit of the best things coming out of every Portland kitchen but my own. Sure, you’ll find me at whichever new French bistro or offal-in-a-waffle food cart pops onto the scene, but there are also places around town serving crave-worthy dishes that call me back time and time again whenever I think about making my own dinner for once. Here’s my list of the five reliable places that keep my home fridge empty.

1) The Burger: Screen Door 2337 E Burnside St
There are plenty of explanations for that infamous line out the door, but in my book there’s only one that really matters: Screen Door serves the best burger in Portland. Nothing cures food disenchantment caused by too many gourmet tasting menus than 10 bloody ounces of Painted Hills ground sirloin with thick-cut onions and extra pickles. Insider tip: Ask for the burger on the pulled pork bun for the full experience, and if you’re feeling daring, try it with pimento cheese and stuff your face like nobody’s watching.
Eat me: Step one: Backyard Burger with french fries. Step two: Banoffee Pie. Just do it.
Drink me: Porch Swing Lemonade with vodka, fresh lemonade, and muddled sage. Like sipping a liquid version of your summer herb garden right after it’s been watered. With booze.

2) The Coffee Shop: Ford Food and Drink SE 11th & SE Division St
This offshoot of SE Division’s Detour Café serves from-scratch pastries, sandwiches, soups, and focaccia pizza in a huge concrete-chic space that was once a Model T factory. Ford’s walls of windows keep the space bright – even when it’s pouring – and with plentiful power outlets and tables, you get the feeling you’re welcome to stay for hours. And I do.
Eat me: Good Morning Panino – Cream cheese, pepper bacon, oven-dried Roma tomatoes, and fresh basil pesto on house-made foccacia.
Drink me: With rotating beers on tap and a well-curated and affordable wine selection, the good people at Ford do their part to fill your cup with more than just Stumptown brew. The’ve got Happy Hour 5-7 weekdays, with $3 pints and glasses of wine.

3) The Food Cart: Los Gorditos Taqueria SE 50th Ave & SE Division St
I’m not going to involve myself in the eternal no-real-Mexican-food-in-PDX debate, but Los Gorditos is easily my favorite food cart in town. With a full covered porch and plenty of seating, this spot is the kind of place where you could throw a dart at their menu board and be completely satisfied ordering anything you hit. Be warned: the cart is closed on Sundays, making it the saddest day of the week, but their brick-and-mortar location on 12th and Division is open every day.
Eat me: The Soyrizo burrito, a lingering favorite from my vegetarian days – a grilled flour tortilla stuffed with Soyrizo, beans, rice, cheese, lettuce, tomato, avocado, sour cream, onion and cilantro, topped with a lot of their house salsa verde.
Drink me: Mexican Coke cold out of the fridge under the salsa bar. Because it’s the real thing.

4) The Date Spot: Bar Avignon 2138 SE Division St
I supposed you could call Bar Avignon a mom-and-pop joint, but only if your pop is one of the most well-respected wine directors in town and your mom makes a truly wicked sazerac. Randy Goodman and Nancy Hunt have created the quintessential neighborhood bistro, with a knockout wine and cocktail list, a full menu of classic, flavorful dishes, and a vibe that manages to be romantic, Euro-chic, and homey at the same time. They’ve been teasing me with the promise of weekend brunch in the coming months, and when that wish is granted I may never leave.
Eat me: Head in on Fried Chicken Night (check their website for dates) and feast on golden-crisp Draper Valley chickens drizzled with spiced honey, cornbread with maple butter, and spicy braised greens.
Drink me: Nancy’s take on the Vieux Carré – rye whiskey, Dolin sweet vermouth, Benedictine, Angostura and Peychaud bitters, and lemon.

5) The Hole in the Wall: Pho Huy 11342 SE 82nd, (503) 353-6646
Everyone’s got their favorite pho joint, and mine’s in the parking lot of a WinCo in Happy Valley. While Pho Huy’s take on the sinus-clearing Vietnamese noodle soups are standard, the real reason I’m impelled to drive a half hour for lunch is a salad. The Goi Bo (seared beef salad) is an addictive plate of flavorful steak bits, shredded cabbage, carrots, cilantro, and peanuts in a citrusy fish sauce dressing that manages to become far more than the sum of its humble parts.
Eat me: Said Goi Bo.
Drink me: Pho Huy manages to do something magical with their water (yes, as in tap water) involving fresh lime. If it was on the menu I’d order it, but it’s free, which is way better.

There you have it, my everyday cravings in a nutshell. What are your top five?

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Tags: Happy Hour, Food Carts, Coffee and Tea, Southeast Dining, Wine, Best Burgers, Vietnamese Food, The Best, Comfort Food

Interview

5 Questions for: Graped Crusader, STAR BLACK

Clyde Common and Olympic Provisions’ wine director talks natural wines, modern pairings, and the upcoming wine revolution.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Apr 11, 2011 at 01:40PM 4 Comments

Star Black is on a mission. As the wine director at some of Portland’s hottest restaurants, she’s hoping to translate the city’s obsessions with artisan foods, small distilleries, micro-brews and locally-roasted coffee into a love of well-crafted wine – and she wants you to join her. The stylish redhead is behind the well-curated wine list at Clyde Common, and she’s played an essential role in the redefinition and expansion of Nate Tilden’s Olympic Provisions empire. With the opening of the new Olympic Provisions Northwest in April, Black will head the wine selection of both charcuterie outposts and Clyde Common.

Black’s passion for vino is clearly on display as she carefully unpacks tall stacks of bottles in front of the “wine wall” at Olympic Provisions’ industrial Southeast headquarters. Seeing her hold up each bottle to the light like a new baby, it’s easy to imagine her leading the next generation of wine lovers in what’s quickly becoming Sip City, USA.

Here, Black gives us a taste of her wine philosophy and what’s next in her plans to take over the world, one glass at a time.

1) First things first – How did you get started with wine?

I came into wine through food. I went to culinary school and was a cook for many years in restaurants in New York, and I would sit in on wine meetings with the front of the house staff and pester the sommelier, asking tons of questions. I was just so amazed one grape could become so many different things, I just realized I loved wine and needed to know more. I was also getting burnt out on cooking, so I quit my job in a Brooklyn restaurant and took a long walk home instead of riding the subway. I walked past a wine shop, stopped to talk to the proprietor, and bought a bottle of wine. I came back a few days later with a resume.

2) Given your experience with both food and wine, how do you think the two are related?

There’s been a revolution in wine over the past 5-10 years of “natural” winemaking, biodynamic wines, old-school indigenous varietals, un-messed-with fermentations and natural yeasts with minimal manipulation, which is a total parallel to what’s happening in the food world right now. That’s really what’s going to draw in the next generation of wine lovers. I see people getting up early to go to the Portland Farmers’ Market on a Saturday morning, these cool, young people toting canvas bags full of beautiful produce, meats, and cheeses. Wine is just an extension of that. It’s an agricultural product that should attract people who care about what they put in their mouth.

3) Are there differences between how you approach the wine selections at Clyde Common and Olympic Provisions?

At the core, both restaurants have the same underlying philosophy of offering interesting producers, wines from Europe and Oregon, and natural winemaking. However, Clyde is a more traditional restaurant – in that there is a structured menu, with entrees, appetizers, and dessert – that calls for more traditional pairings, whereas Olympic Provisions is first and foremost a charcuterie facility. Right now I’m expanding Olympic Provisions’ wine list, and offering all of our wines at 25% off the menu’s list price, which I really hope will get people tasting as much wine as possible. There’s a whole world of pairing wine with these fantastic cured meats, which is so much fun.

4) Speaking of which, OP chef Alex Yoder recently described the perfect Olympic Provisions meal and, as far as wine goes, said, “I don’t worry too much about pairing. My advice is to drink what you like.” What’s your take on wine pairings?

I think wine pairing is still completely relevant. Beautiful food deserves beautiful wine, and the two are great dance partners. Wine can definitely enhance the flavor of food, but the old rules of ‘white with fish, red with meat’ are so out the window and everyone knows it. I’ve actually been really excited about Sherry pairings, and we’re doing a Sherry flight [at Olympic Provisions] that is really taking off. Wine pairing shouldn’t be intimidating. At home, I drink a lot of rosé and white wine. I don’t drink much red because my palate gets fatigued from all the stronger wines at work, and I usually just want something clean and refreshing.

5) Portland is head over heels for coffee, beer, and spirits – how do you tap into that when you’re creating a wine list or helping someone select a bottle?

Wine has a reputation for being intimidating and exclusively for the wealthy, and that’s too bad, because it’s none of those things. It’s a rotted grape. It’s so humble, but so incredible. My ultimate goal is to normalize wine and make it a really cool interesting thing, like those varieties of coffee beans or different kinds of hops. I’m always inviting guests at the restaurants to taste a few of the different wines I have open, try to get them to hone in on something that is just really interesting to them. Wine is awesome, and so personal. You just need to find your own style.

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Tags: Southwest Dining, Southeast Dining, Wine, Interview, five questions

Interview

5 questions for: NE Portland pioneer, Sarah Pliner

As NE Alberta’s Aviary takes flight, one of the three chefs talks cuisine and collaboration.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Feb 02, 2011 at 09:00AM 1 Comments

Aviary, a new small-plates restaurant with a we-are-the-world menu and a trio of New York’s finest dining-trained chefs, opened for business yesterday at 1733 NE Alberta St.

I have eagerly been anticipating this eatery ever since I received the letter notifying me about their application for a liquor license a few months back—I live about a 30 second walk away from their front door. The Alberta area has its fair share of coffee shops, bars, and quirky boutiques, but it hasn’t exactly been a destination for classy dining. Aviary, with its three co-owner/chefs (Sarah Pliner, Jasper Shen, and Katherine Whitehead) is seeking to change that, while also celebrating the neighborhood’s communal spirit and strong sense of creative expression—the space features reclaimed wood crafted into everything from pantry shelving to banquettes, lighting from Rejuvenation, and, of course, local art.

A very-busy chef Pliner was kind enough to give us a preview of Alberta’s latest nest for nibbles.

1) Why the name Aviary?

It started with a mah jong tile, the smallest bamboo, which has a little bird on it. We thought it was cute but curious, because there doesn’t seem to be a reason it should be a bird. Then we were thinking about what we all want to do long-term, and Kat had been doing some freelance dessert work under the name katbird, so we thought that someday there might be other “birds”—a bake shop, a bar, etc. When we got our LLC, we called it Aviary, and while we were trying to find a real name, that place-holder kind of grew on us. I also felt like it had some relevance to what we’re trying to do, both with the food and the feel of the restaurant—that it should be a home to many different kinds of birds.

2) Can you give us a snapshot of what you’re serving?

The menu features modern French technique, but using ingredients and ideas from around the globe. It’s small plates so people can share and try many different things. Three dishes not to miss include: the dungeness crab dressed with a lemon emulsion, brioche croutons, and a thin slice of winter melon, and then topped with mentaiko (spiced cod roe) and kinome, the leaf of the szechuan peppercorn plant, which is citrusy and floral tasting; ox tail croquettes made from ox tail braised with sweet spices, then breaded and deep fried, and served with tomato jam flavored with ginger, lemongrass, cinnamon, and star anise; and brioche-crusted halibut with sea urchin and shiso rolled inside, sesame seed spinach, and a cucumber shiso sauce.

We also have some house cocktails made with local spirits and seasonal infusions, and a small, focused wine list with most of the mainly French and local wines available by the glass or bottle, and we are working on making our own sodas.

3) Three chefs, eh? How exactly does that work?

We argue about all the front-of-the-house decisions, such as chairs, tables, and flatware, until we get sick of arguing and someone gives in. In the kitchen, for the most part, Jasper and I collaborate on the savory, and Kat and I work on the pastry together, but there’s nothing that goes on the menu that we don’t all agree on. None of the three of us can see the point in giving someone a title that would allow them to ignore useful input—even if we named ourselves chef, pastry chef, and sous chef, that’s not how it would work.

4) Why Alberta and what do you think you can add to the neighborhood?

It’s a fun, eclectic neighborhood—there are always people out and there’s always something going on. I think we bring a different style of food from anything that’s on Alberta right now, maybe a little more refined, while keeping the front-of-the-house experience relaxed and casual.

5) What other restaurants in town are currently rocking your world?

I enjoyed Biwa the vegetable dishes. I think the attention to detail there was exceptional, and I really like izakayas and trying lots of different things. Also, Olympic Provisions, because they do their own charcuterie, which is really brave, and they do it amazingly well. I don’t get out much right now, so when I do, it’s nice for it to be a bit of an adventure.

Hours: Mon-Thurs, 5-10pm; Fri & Sat, 5-11pm

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Tags: Restaurant Openings, Wine, Northeast Dining, five questions, French, small plates

Perfect Pairings

Toothsome T-Day Wines

Good pilgrims know to show up at Thanksgiving dinner with a good bottle or two.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Nov 22, 2010 at 09:30AM 0 Comments

With only three food shopping days left until Thanksgiving, some folks are still frantically trying to figure out if they are going to go classic, cornbread, rice, or gluten-free with their stuffing. But then there are the lucky people who, instead of sweating into a pot of gravy or pan of sweet potatoes, will simply be attending someone else’s feast. Even if your gracious hosts have instructed you to only bring yourself, a fabulous wine always makes for a welcome addition to the festive T-Day meal.

To make purchasing a bottle of holiday vino easier on you, we asked four local experts to weigh in with both a choice under-$30 red and a not-red. Of course, no one wine will be the soul mate for every item on the table, but bring any of these eight bottles and you and your fellow gobble-gobblers will truly have something to be thankful for.

THE GRAPE GURUS

Andrew Fortgang, co-owner of Le Pigeon and the upcoming Little Bird

Bruce Bauer, owner of VINO

John Kennedy, owner of Great Wine Buys

Lisa Shara Hall, senior editor at Wine Business Monthly

THE GOODS

Red

Bruno Côtes de Bruneaux “Columbia Valley,” 2008 (approx. $12.95)
Holiday meals are not the moment to split the atom wine-wise, says Bauer. “Big flavor + Big value = Big enjoyment. This Rhône-style red blend made from Washington grapes offers plenty of jammy, spicy, blackberry and cocoa-tinged fruit in a far too drinkable style, and the bold berry flavors and full-bodied texture will stand up to the cacophony of flavors running riot across your holiday table. It’s absolutely one of those nothing-not-to-like reds!”

Westrey “Oracle Vineyard” Dundee Hills Pinot Noir, 2008 (approx. $24.95)
Want a wine that will go well with the majority of your T-Day dishes and drink well on its own? Opt for a fruity red, says Hall. “Well-balanced dark cherries unite with a gentle spice in this Oregon pinot. The 2008 vintage is superb, showing off a firm structure, a tightly balanced core of fruit, and bright supporting acidity.”

Domaine Jacky Janodet Moulin-à-Vent, 2009 (approx. $19)
Beaujolais is always lovely with turkey, says Fortgang, “and the cranberry sauce will bring out the wine’s lively, fresh berry notes.”

Clos du Caillou Côtes du Rhône, 2007 (approx. $25.99)
Kennedy, a self-proclaimed sucker for the southern Rhône, says that this red’s savory herb notes, smoky earthiness, and roasted fruit flavors make it a great match for T-Day fare like bacon and sage dressing, roasted squash, and turkey—especially if the bird is smoked, as he does with his on a BBQ. “This bottling from the ripe 2007 vintage offers plenty of forward fruit for the casual wine drinker as well as layers of more complex spicy flavors that keep it interesting glass after glass.”

Not-Red:

Elio Perrone Bigaro, 2009 (approx. $18)
A semi-sparkling rosé from Italy’s Piedmont region, this lower-alcohol dessert wine is a great way to refresh the palate after a heavy Thanksgiving meal, says Kennedy. “An uncommon blend, it offers all the swoon-worthy floral, honeysuckle, and apricot aromatics of a white Moscato, along with the tangy cherry/berry flavors of a red Brachetto. Refreshingly delicious and lightly fruity as opposed to syrupy sweet, this is a dessert bottle to keep the party going rather than end it.”

Domaine de Juchepie Anjou Sec, Les Monts, 2005 (approx. $25)
The great richness of this white makes it great for poultry, says Fortgang. Lush fruit and a little funk on the nose, a round mouthfeel, and lovely acidity on the finish can both complement and cut through the richness of a heavy, fatty Thanksgiving meal.

J & H Selbach Zeitlinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett, 2009 (approx. $13)
To bring out the best in your sweeter Thanksgiving dishes, Hall suggests serving a sweet wine balanced by high acidity, such as this German Riesling Kabinett. “The stone fruit flavors are kissed with sweetness but balanced by a high acidity—perfect for cutting through the cranberries and sweet potatoes, and, actually, not bad match for the big bird.”

Waldschutz Grüner Veltliner, 2009 (approx. $11.95)
“Grüner Veltliner from Austria is the new flavor du jour in white wine, and it’s no wonder when you get gobs of fresh, crisp apple and citrus fruit with hints of black pepper and floral spice lurking around the edges,” says Bauer. “This Waldschutz GV is a textbook example. Über-food friendly, with plenty of personality, this one-liter bottle—1/3 more than a standard 750ml bottle—is exactly what you want at your T-Day table.”

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Tags: Wine, Thanksgiving, expert advice

'Burbs Bites

Restaurant Update: MiNGO West

Simple, solid, and delicious Italian cuisine in Beaverton.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Nov 12, 2010 at 12:00PM 3 Comments

In our food-obsessed hamlet, it’s rare that I hear mention of any place to eat outside of the four quadrants. For example, I’ve lived in Portland for a few years now, and it was only recently that I learned there was a third manifestation of Northwest Portland’s deliciously reliable Caffe MiNGO and Bar MiNGO — MiNGO West —located in Beaverton. It’s just a hop, skip, and a MAX ride away from downtown (literally—there’s a stop right in front of the building, at the Round), but no one I know knew it existed.

Last weekend I had dinner plans with a friend who lives in Cornelius, so I figured it was time to make my maiden voyage to this middle-ground culinary destination.

Warm and cheery, with wooden floors and quirky art, MiNGO West is the kind of place that invites regulars—in fact, as I enjoyed a glass of Evesham Wood pinot noir while we waited for a table, I watched as the co-owner, Michael Tocchini, greeted numerous patrons by name and the occasional hug. (Tocchini also sent us some perfectly seared scallops on a buttery/peppery crostini; a thoughtful gesture when you consider that it was our own fault for failing to make a reservation on a bustling Saturday night.)

In case you’re wondering, as I was, about how all those MiNGOs are connected, Tocchini owns West with Michael Cronan who also owns Caffe and Bar with Joe Cleary. Tocchini’s father grew up with Cronan and the Cleary family in San Francisco back in the day, and Cronan is Tocchini’s godfather. The younger Italian worked for Cronan at Caffe and Serratto, before joining in the creation of West, which opened in 2004, where he serves as managing owner, collaborates with chef Martín Gomez to produce a new menu every six weeks, runs the extensive wine program, and coordinates the immensely popular winemaker dinners. (Next up is Pamela Lenzi of Fattoria di Petroio in Tuscany, on November 18th.)

When they were deciding where to locate their new MiNGO outpost, Tocchini and Cronan considered Portland’s eastside, but finally settled on the ‘burbs because they felt there was more of a foodie hole to fill farther out. “There was nothing like us out here when we arrived, save Hall Street Grill and some good hole-in-the-wall Asian places,” says Tocchini.

For my dinner last weekend, I had the ultimate rainy autumn night soul food—a grano intero pizza, which had a whole wheat crust and was topped with roasted butternut squash, smoked mozzarella, radicchio, and sage. One of my dining companions devoured the melt-in-your-mouth halibut, resting atop a wealth of chanterelles and sweet potatoes, and the other enjoyed the super tender Polpo (octopus), served on top a bed of arugula. The menu has just changed, but I’d like to return for one of their homemade pasta dishes (such as the penne tossed with beef braised in chianti and espresso, or the pappardelle with rabbit sausage and butternut squash in a madeira cream sauce) or the newly added potato gnocchi, with a simple brown butter and sage preparation—you can add truffles as well, which you should.

MiNGO West isn’t reinventing the wheel—instead, what they’ve brought to the suburban table is a simple, even wholesome Italian menu that showcases local produce and favors dishes featuring only a few lovingly-handled ingredients. In a culinary environment in which food is often twisted and tweaked to look like anything but what it actually is, there is something to be said for a meal that’s just plain good. It’s definitely worth a 15 minute car ride or a MAX ticket.

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Tags: Wine, Italian Cuisine, Beaverton Dining, restaurant update

Food News

Wine Country Dinners

Thistle announces its 2nd Annual Guest Chef & Winemaker Dinner Series

Posted by: Karen Brooks on Oct 27, 2010 at 09:30AM 0 Comments

McMinnville’s growing reputation as a foodie destination soared with the arrival of Thistle in 2009, which brought a bit of Portland recycled cool and farm-fresh obsession to an old-school town fully embracing another newcomer, two young turks rethinking the Italian kitchen at nearby institution Nick’s Italian Café

If you haven’t explored the new McMinnville mode, Thistle has made it easy to dig in for a good cause: the 2nd Annual Guest Chef & Winemaker Dinner Series, starring serious talent with artisan-farm-fresh creds and benefiting the Yamhill Community Action Partnership, a local food bank (last year’s gig raised $5,000).

The monthly five-course dinners, on Sunday nights, cost $100 a head, with a limit on 25 people served—of course—at communal tables, made at Thistle from reclaimed bowling-alley wood. Up first: edgy Northwest cooking from Beaker & Flask paired with small-batch spirits and cocktails donated by local favorite, Ransom Wines & Spirits.

Call 503-472-9623 for reservations. Discounted rooms are available at McMenamins Hotel Oregon across the street.

The lineup:

November 14: Beaker & Flask with Ransom Wines

December 12: June with Soter Vineyards

January 16: Beast with Evening Land Vineyards

February 13: Ned Ludd with Cristom Vineyards

March 20: Grain & Gristle with EIEIO Wines

April 17: LUC (from Corvallis) with Eyrie Vineyards

May 15: Navarre with Anne Amie Vineyards

June 19: Nostrana with Remy Wines

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Tags: Food News, Wine,

No Meatables

Portland’s Top Three Veggie Burgers

One gal’s opinion of meat-free “burgers” even carnivores should love.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Aug 30, 2010 at 10:00AM 2 Comments

When waxing poetic about burgers, the veggie versions are usually little more than a punch line. It’s understandable — most restaurants offer the same old over-cooked Boca or Gardenburger, or they think that veg-heads will be sated with any patty that contains beans or soy, even if it’s crumbly, pasty, or flavorless.

But there are exceptions to this rule, and I have three “best-of-the-best” local examples to prove it. Of course, “best” is a subjective term and I’m sure there are plenty of people who would disdain the ranking of my choices, or the fact that they exist on my list at all. Please feel free to comment and tell me how terribly wrong I’ve been.

1. The Farm Café: Farmhouse Veggie Burger ($11)

The patty in this veggie burger “sandwich” is an intoxicating combo of eggplant, breadcrumbs, cheese, and spices. Served on an airy rustic bun with caramelized onions, lettuce, thick slices of heirloom tomatoes, Dijon mustard, and seasonal pickles, it just has “such good flavor! Each bite is exciting!” as my sister-in-law put it. Eggplant is unusual in veggie burgers, but this meaty vegetable imparts a fabulous rich, umami quality. Perfectly caramelized on the outside, the patty is moist without being oily — it’s almost like a heartier eggplant parmesan in burger form. It also comes with fries or a salad. I like the meaty fries because they necessitate The Farm’s house-made ketchup, which contains curious and yet lovely flavors like curry and clove.

On a recent excursion, I paired my burger with a glass of medium-bodied 2008 Willamette Valley pinot noir from the NW Vine Project, an ultra-affordable secondary label from highly-regarded Northwest winemakers like David O’Reilly and Andrew Rich. This fresh, structured pinot has an initial bite but quickly becomes smooth, and doesn’t get lost once you attack your burger.

2. Veritable Quandary: Heather’s Veggi “Burger” with Lentils, Wild Mushrooms & Hazelnuts ($14)

This veggie burger may be the priciest I’ve eaten, but it’s also the biggest and the fanciest. Lightly seared on the outside, the patty is more like a dense hunk of meatloaf, expertly seasoned and earthy. It’s topped with buttermilk blue cheese, caramelized red onions, and truffle aioli and served on a thin grilled focaccia that tastes like the buttered toast you might find at a diner (I mean that as a compliment!). At first I was weirded out by the lack of fresh veggies, but for some insane reason, the lemony truffle aioli made me forget about it. This is the kind of sandwich that really sings when all the components are consumed together.

It comes with a mix of mostly bitter field greens in a light coat of salt-and-pepper vinaigrette, a fitting foil for the decadence of the burger.

3. The Observatory: Quinoa-Mushroom Veggie Burger ($8)

This version seemed to be the town favorite when I did a cursory search on Google, but I just don’t think it’s as interesting as the first two. Regardless, it’s certainly tasty as well as the most “real burger”-like. The crisp patty mostly maintains its structural integrity, and offers a deep, almost mineral flavor, reminiscent of molasses. Dished up with fresh lettuce, tomato, and onion on a Grand Central sesame seed brioche bun, you can also add cheddar, Swiss, or blue cheese for a dollar. And a generous portion of thick, salty house-made fries ensures you won’t go home hungry.

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Tags: On the Menu, Wine, Best Burgers, Vegetarian Friendly

Landon

Sommelier Erican Landon to Leave Ten 01

Landon heads to wine country. The Heathman’s Jeff Groh to replace

Posted by: Eat Beat Team on Feb 03, 2010 at 01:00PM 0 Comments

Ten 01’s star sommelier and general manager Erica Landon, who was named the city’s best wine geek by this magazine in 2008, is leaving Ten 01 to become the director of marketing and events at Hawks View Cellars near Sherwood. Friendly, outgoing, and possessing an encyclopedic knowledge of wine, Erica will be missed. To the Ten 01 faithful who might be dismayed at today’s news, fear not. The city’s other big-name sommelier Jeff Groh of The Heathman fame will be taking her place. Groh will join the restaurant that has consistently showcased the city’s top beverage program, thanks to Landon and bar manager Kelley Swenson.

Ten 01 has had a few shake-ups recently, but seems to be finding momentum. Executive Chef Benjamin Parks, who replaced the much-heralded Jack Yoss, left the restaurant in the fall, but his replacement Mike Hanaghan has reportedly been earning high marks with the regulars. Hanaghan, as well as his sous chef, is an alum of Thomas Keller’s restaurants. Between the two, the duo has worked at French Laundry, Per Se, and Bouchon—both the Las Vegas and original Yountsville locations.

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Tags: Wine

wine tasting

Indie Wine Festival Pre-Thanksgiving Tasting Event

Posted by: Kaitlyn Evans on Nov 23, 2009 at 03:00PM 0 Comments

I don’t need a giant sign dangling from my neck with "Amateur wine taster” printed in bold. The irresolute slant of my eyebrows says it all. It was laughable, really, when my boyfriend, Marcus (another amateur, might I add) and I stepped between the white flaps of the Indie Wine Festival pre-Thanksgiving Tasting tent, and were instantly poked and prodded by local winemakers like a pack of vultures feasting on their prey.

Kathken Vineyards nabbed us first, asking what we’d like to start the afternoon with. Cue that eyebrow slant. Marcus and I looked at each other, shrugged, and were poured a generous ounce of Syrah. Our eyes lit up. Before long, we had tried Jolie’s Juice – a port wine, Pinot Gris, reserve Pinot Noir, and Clarke’s Cuvee.

A word of the wise came from a woman seated nearby. “You may want to start spitting soon,” she said, gesturing toward Marcus, who was loading a plateful of turkey rolls and cheese from the snack table.

We slowed down a bit after that, partly because the tent, stationed on the front lawn of the picturesque Brookside Inn, was swelling up with people. For the first annual pre-Thanksgiving tasting event, the Indie Wine Festival had invited over ten award-winning Oregon wineries to offer tastes of their acclaimed wines and sell bottles to pair with guests’ upcoming holiday menus.

I found the variety of wineries, including J. Scott Cellars, Et Filles, Viento, and more, fitting for a newbie taster like myself. I was particularly fond of the 2007 Pinot Noir from Christopher Bridge, a wine that has four double gold awards under its belt. However, their Muscat – as the woman at the booth was sure to point out – could change a taster’s opinion of the sweet, white variety entirely.

Also worth mentioning was Madrone Mountain, a Southern Oregon winery known for their artisanal dessert wines, and favored by local restaurants like Paley’s Place and Noble Rot. They poured three different Ports to sip in sequence, a delectably sweet Starthistle Riesling, and offered Madagascan chocolate and Rogue Creamery blue cheese as compliments.

I must admit, part of my affection for Madrone Mountain stemmed from the proprietor, who proudly adorned a ‘hat’ that made it look like a wine cork and a corkscrew were sticking out either side of his skull. A perfect reminder that wine should never be taken too seriously.

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Tags: Wine

holiday buzz

Have a little turkey with that wine

Posted by: Kaitlyn Evans on Nov 18, 2009 at 09:00AM 0 Comments

It’s time to dust off this year’s September ’09 issue – unless, of course, you have it displayed on your kitchen counter, the pages dog-eared and crumpled from referring back to our hand selected, top 50 Oregon wines before making a definitive decision on your own. (If this is you, we like you)

With winter looming just over Mt. Hood (think: slick roads, pink noses, and spirits either hopped up on holiday treats or sinking with each drizzly morning) wine is basically all we have, Portland. So let’s make sure we are well versed, tasted, and stocked for the season.

Willamette Valley Wineries is in its 27th year of hosting its annual tribute to vino, Wine Country Thanksgiving. During the weekend immediately following Turkey Day, wineries from the Chehalem Mountains to the Eola-Amity Hills (plus, everywhere in between) will open their doors for wine tasting, food pairings, special offers and live music. Proceeds from this year’s event will benefit the Yamhill Community Action Partnership (YCAP).

Each winery has tailored their own celebration (a complete schedule can be found on the Willamette Valley Wineries website), but we recommend that you visit at least a handful of wineries from our September list.

Wherever your weekend takes you, here is a little cheat sheet of our favorites:

Dundee Hills

Archery Summit Winery
#1 2006 Pinot Noir ‘Red Hills Estate’

Cozy up with our 2009 winner for Archery Summit’s Toast the Season tasting event, with food pairings, live music and a logo glass. $20. Fri-Sun 10-4 PM

Domaine Serene
#6 2006 Pinot Noir ‘Carter Vineyard’
#14 2006 Pinot Noir ‘Jerusalem Vineyard’
#18 2006 Chardonnay ‘Etoile’

Sip award winning Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah, and have first dibs on to be released barrel wines. $30. Event on Friday. Noon-3 PM

Yamhill-Carlton

Ken Wright Cellars
#4 2006 Pinot Noir ‘Abbot Claim Vineyard’
#5 2007 Pinot Noir ‘Carter Vineyard’
#15 2006 Pinot Noir ‘Premier Cuvee’

This gem is open to the public only two weekends of the year! Be sure to join Ken Wright Cellars for a barrel tasting of the new 2009 vintage. Fri-Sat 10-4 PM

Eola-Amity Hills

Cristom Vineyards
#7 2005 Pinot Noir ‘Signature Cuvee’

Current releases and library selections available for tasting, and the $5 tasting fee is waved if you purchase a bottle. A limited supply of the award-winning 2005 Signature Cuvee will be on hand for purchase – so hurry up and get here quick!

Chehalem Mountains

Bergström Wines
#8 2007 Chardonnay ‘Sigrid’
#23 2007 Pinot Noir ‘ Bergstrom Vineyard’
#32 2007 Chardonnay ‘Old Stones’

Bergström Wines understands the importance of family during Thanksgiving, and wants you to join theirs in tasting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay paired with locally baked breads and artisan cheeses. $15. Fri-Sat 10-4, Sun 12-3 PM

Ribbon Ridge

Brick House
#28 2007 Chardonnay
#34 Multivintage Pinot Noir ‘N.V.’

This winery has 19 years of certified organic wine growing under its belt. Catch the first glimpses of 2008 wines, snack on cheese from Montheillet Fromagerie, and slather it all in local honey from Andrew the Bee Man. $15. Fri-Sat 10-4 PM

McMinnville

Brittan Vineyards
#12 2007 Pinot Noir ‘Basalt Block’
#27 2007 Pinot Noir ‘Gestalt Block’

Meet winemaker Robert Brittan and taste renowned Pinot Noir from this hillside vineyard. $20 (includes all 8 wineries)

Happy Sipping!

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Tags: Wine