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Leftover Love

5 Portland Chefs Present Post T-Day Sandwiches

These creative recipes for sandwiches made with Thanksgiving leftovers just might be the best thing since sliced bread.

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Two of the recipes involved in Paley’s post T-Day sandwich can be found here!

Turkey and Stuffing Scrapple —Timothy Wastell, DOC

To make the “scrapple,” first simmer shredded leftover turkey in a little leftover gravy; then, add a small amount of cornmeal and continue to cook until the mixture begins to thicken and bubble. Next, add some leftover stuffing and stir until the mixture is thick and homogenous, to the point that when it cools you will be able to slice and fry it. Taste the mixture to check the seasoning and adjust with salt and pepper if necessary. Next, transfer the mixture to a greased and/or parchment paper-lined tray or casserole dish, and smooth it out to an even thickness, ideally an inch to an inch-and-a-half thick. Cover the pan tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until the mixture is cool and solid—at least a few hours or up to overnight.

To complete, slice the scrapple into sandwich-sized pieces, dip them in a little cornmeal or flour, and pan-fry until they are golden brown. Serve the slices on pretzel bread from little t american baker or leftover rolls, with leftover cranberry sauce and a side of gravy for dipping.

Thanksgiving Turkey Rueben —Vitaly Paley, Paley’s Place

To make the sandwich that is sure to be the star of the Paley’s Place staff-meal more than once after Thanksgiving, Paley would use the bread pudding that he makes instead of stuffing as the bread portion, and he would use his braised red cabbage side dish in place of sauerkraut. (Editor’s Note: Both the recipes are in The Paley’s Place Cookbook: Recipes and Stories from the Pacific Northwest, available at Powell’s.) Start by rubbing slices of leftover bread pudding with Russian dressing on one side, and cranberry mustard (made from leftover cranberry compote mixed with whole grain mustard) on the other. Next, place slices of leftover smoked turkey (Paley smokes and spit-roasts his bird every Thanksgiving) on top, and cover with the red cabbage and grated gruyére. Grill the sandwich until golden brown and then serve with fries made from leftover sweet potatoes.

The Old Fashioned —John Stewart, Meat Cheese Bread

Begin by reheating your leftover turkey (or turkey sausage, goose, chicken, etc.) in the oven or microwave, warming your leftover cranberry chutney/sauce, and heating some leftover mashed potatoes in a covered pan on “low.” When the potatoes are hot, gently fold in some grated sharp cheddar cheese and a couple tablespoons of sour cream. Next, cut a Grand Central bolo roll in half, butter the cut sides, and then grill them slowly in a frying pan. When the bread is warm and toasty, add your leftovers in whatever order you like—Stewart prefers the meat on the bottom, topped with the potatoes, thinly sliced onions, and then cranberry chutney.

Thanksgiving Day-After Dip —Ken Gordon, Kenny & Zukes

Spread three tablespoons of softened butter on one side of eight slices of crusty sourdough or country white bread, and then flip the slices over. Spread four of the slices with one cup of leftover cranberry sauce. Distribute two cups of warmed leftover stuffing on the other four slices, layer one pound of sliced leftover turkey over the stuffing, spread a tablespoon of leftover gravy on top of each of slice, and top them with the other four slices of bread, cranberry sauce side down. Next, heat a large griddle to medium-hot and place the sandwiches on it, weighting them down with another large pan or two and lightly pressing down during the grilling. Cook the sandwiches until they are well-browned and crusty on one side, and then carefully flip them over and repeat on the other side. When they’re done, cut them into quarters and serve with a side of hot gravy for dipping.

The Hard Way and the Easy Way —Jason Neroni, Saucebox

If you’re feeling ambitious, consider doing a leftover turkey leg confit and making a rillettes (a preparation of meat similar to pâté). Slice it and serve it on the bread of your choice with leftover cranberry sauce mixed with mustard. If you don’t have that kind of motivation after a day of gorging, fry up a mess of leftover sausage stuffing and serve it on thin slices of the bread of your choice with a poached egg and leftover giblet au jus. Serve either sandwich with a spicy Bloody Mary garnished with pickled Brussels sprouts.

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Tags: Portland Chefs, Holiday Events, Thanksgiving, sandwiches

Perfect Pairings

Toothsome T-Day Wines

Good pilgrims know to show up at Thanksgiving dinner with a good bottle or two.

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Westrey

One of eight tasty T-Day sippers.

With only three food shopping days left until Thanksgiving, some folks are still frantically trying to figure out if they are going to go classic, cornbread, rice, or gluten-free with their stuffing. But then there are the lucky people who, instead of sweating into a pot of gravy or pan of sweet potatoes, will simply be attending someone else’s feast. Even if your gracious hosts have instructed you to only bring yourself, a fabulous wine always makes for a welcome addition to the festive T-Day meal.

To make purchasing a bottle of holiday vino easier on you, we asked four local experts to weigh in with both a choice under-$30 red and a not-red. Of course, no one wine will be the soul mate for every item on the table, but bring any of these eight bottles and you and your fellow gobble-gobblers will truly have something to be thankful for.

THE GRAPE GURUS

Andrew Fortgang, co-owner of Le Pigeon and the upcoming Little Bird

Bruce Bauer, owner of VINO

John Kennedy, owner of Great Wine Buys

Lisa Shara Hall, senior editor at Wine Business Monthly

THE GOODS

Red

Bruno Côtes de Bruneaux “Columbia Valley,” 2008 (approx. $12.95)
Holiday meals are not the moment to split the atom wine-wise, says Bauer. “Big flavor + Big value = Big enjoyment. This Rhône-style red blend made from Washington grapes offers plenty of jammy, spicy, blackberry and cocoa-tinged fruit in a far too drinkable style, and the bold berry flavors and full-bodied texture will stand up to the cacophony of flavors running riot across your holiday table. It’s absolutely one of those nothing-not-to-like reds!”

Westrey “Oracle Vineyard” Dundee Hills Pinot Noir, 2008 (approx. $24.95)
Want a wine that will go well with the majority of your T-Day dishes and drink well on its own? Opt for a fruity red, says Hall. “Well-balanced dark cherries unite with a gentle spice in this Oregon pinot. The 2008 vintage is superb, showing off a firm structure, a tightly balanced core of fruit, and bright supporting acidity.”

Domaine Jacky Janodet Moulin-à-Vent, 2009 (approx. $19)
Beaujolais is always lovely with turkey, says Fortgang, “and the cranberry sauce will bring out the wine’s lively, fresh berry notes.”

Clos du Caillou Côtes du Rhône, 2007 (approx. $25.99)
Kennedy, a self-proclaimed sucker for the southern Rhône, says that this red’s savory herb notes, smoky earthiness, and roasted fruit flavors make it a great match for T-Day fare like bacon and sage dressing, roasted squash, and turkey—especially if the bird is smoked, as he does with his on a BBQ. “This bottling from the ripe 2007 vintage offers plenty of forward fruit for the casual wine drinker as well as layers of more complex spicy flavors that keep it interesting glass after glass.”

Not-Red:

Elio Perrone Bigaro, 2009 (approx. $18)
A semi-sparkling rosé from Italy’s Piedmont region, this lower-alcohol dessert wine is a great way to refresh the palate after a heavy Thanksgiving meal, says Kennedy. “An uncommon blend, it offers all the swoon-worthy floral, honeysuckle, and apricot aromatics of a white Moscato, along with the tangy cherry/berry flavors of a red Brachetto. Refreshingly delicious and lightly fruity as opposed to syrupy sweet, this is a dessert bottle to keep the party going rather than end it.”

Domaine de Juchepie Anjou Sec, Les Monts, 2005 (approx. $25)
The great richness of this white makes it great for poultry, says Fortgang. Lush fruit and a little funk on the nose, a round mouthfeel, and lovely acidity on the finish can both complement and cut through the richness of a heavy, fatty Thanksgiving meal.

J & H Selbach Zeitlinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett, 2009 (approx. $13)
To bring out the best in your sweeter Thanksgiving dishes, Hall suggests serving a sweet wine balanced by high acidity, such as this German Riesling Kabinett. “The stone fruit flavors are kissed with sweetness but balanced by a high acidity—perfect for cutting through the cranberries and sweet potatoes, and, actually, not bad match for the big bird.”

Waldschutz Grüner Veltliner, 2009 (approx. $11.95)
“Grüner Veltliner from Austria is the new flavor du jour in white wine, and it’s no wonder when you get gobs of fresh, crisp apple and citrus fruit with hints of black pepper and floral spice lurking around the edges,” says Bauer. “This Waldschutz GV is a textbook example. Über-food friendly, with plenty of personality, this one-liter bottle—1/3 more than a standard 750ml bottle—is exactly what you want at your T-Day table.”

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Tags: Wine, Thanksgiving, expert advice

Holiday Eats Cheat Sheet

Thanksgiving—Unwrapped

If your answer to the question “What’s cookin’?” is “Not me, pilgrim,” we have eight restaurant options to help you get your T Day fix.

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Let Country Cat chef/butcher Adam Sappington do your cooking and carving this Thanksgiving.

The Down Home: Country Cat Dinnerhouse & Bar 2pm-7:30pm
Denim overall wearin’ chef Adam Sappington will be dishing up recipes that have been in his family for two generations, like the brined, smoked & braised turkey with Granny Criss’ stuffing, and “The Judy,” a spread of Longhorn cheddar cheese, beer, Tabasco, and onion. This four-course feast includes an amuse bouche (truffled deviled egg, chopped crab & grilled shrimp toast) and choice of three starters (e.g. chanterelle, hazelnut & pumpkin soup), four entrées (turkey, double cut pork chop, steelhead, or veggie crepes), and four desserts (e.g. pumpkin cheesecake with bourbon Chantilly), and you can add sides like bacon braised collard greens for an extra $5 each. $40/person; vegetarian options and kids menus available; reservations and walk-ins welcome.

The Sophisticated Steakhouse: Urban Farmer Noon-9pm
Chef Matt Christianson wants you and yours to “Enjoy Our Home This Thanksgiving” with a three-course spread inspired by the Northwest’s bounty. Before tucking in to your choice of entrées like Oregon honey and spice roasted turkey or Highland Oak grass-fed New York strip steak with bone marrow and crisp salsify, select a starter such as spiced roasted chestnut Dungeness crab cakes or farm charcuterie including foie gras torchon. Every meal comes with an assortment of family-style sides like chanterelle, chestnut, and cornbread stuffing. Finish yourself off with a choice of desserts like pumpkin praline bread pudding or a Stumptown coffee parfait. $49/adults; a la carte menu for children; reservations recommended.

The Classic: Paley’s Place 2:30pm-8:30pm
Pop in to this Portland fine-dining prototype for Thanksgiving specials like spit-roasted turkey, mashed potatoes, creamed Brussels sprouts, and curried butternut squash and pear bisque. The regular menu will also be available so expect James Beard award-worthy dishes like escargot à la Bordelaise, crispy sweetbreads, and rabbit ravioli, as well as a charcuterie section, cheese cart, and both traditional and seasonal desserts from new pastry chef Kristen Murray. Reservations recommended.

The Fancy-Pants: Bluehour 3pm-9pm
It’s an elegant à la carte extravaganza of dishes like turkey two-ways (smoke roasted breast and a leg confit) with apple-chestnut stuffing, green beans with toasted almonds, jalapeño gravy, and cranberry relish. Begin your meal with the likes of a green cabbage & sour apple salad, house-made hog’s head cheese, or a tower of oysters on the half shell, and close it out with a pumpkin spice ice cream sundae with white chocolate, candied pumpkin seeds, and cinnamon twist cookies. Reservations recommended.

The Very Veggie: Blossoming Lotus Seatings at 2pm and 5pm
Have a flesh-free holiday with a prix fixe vegan celebration that includes carrot ginger soup with herbed spelt croutons, cranberry & toasted walnut salad with chanterelle vinaigrette, savory tofu roast with wild rice & cornbread stuffing topped with stewed vegetable gravy and served with steamed broccoli and kale, and both pumpkin and pecan pie served with creamy vanilla soft serve. Hemp nog and hot spiced pumpkin cider are included. $35/person for dine-in; $39/person for take-out; reservations required.

The Global Gala Part I: Andina 1pm-9:30pm
Andina owner Doris Rodriguez de Platt is serving a lavish El Día de Acción de Gracias three-course repast that combines Oregon flavors with a bit of Peruvian spice. Select from a veritable cornucopia of tapas like baked scallops with parmesan cheese and lime butter, Spanish-style potato frittata with ají Amarillo aioli, mussels cooked in white wine with tomato-corn salsa criolla, and oh so much more, followed by the choice of 11 entrées, such as oven-roasted heritage turkey with quince huacatay chutney, or pork tenderloin quickly braised in the Arequipa style, with butternut squash and gorgonzola ravioli, green apple, and a tamarillo-rocoto “uchucuta.” As for dessert? We suggest the yam-ají Amarillo crème brûlée topped with white chocolate biscotti, or the pumpkin chiffon tart served with caramel sauce and candied walnuts. $50/adults; $25/children age 5-11; children under 5 are free; reservations recommended.

The Global Gala Part II: East India Co. Grill & Bar Pick-up available until 1pm on Thursday, November 25
Have a West Coast Thanksgiving with a little Eastern flair. East India Co. is offering their Indian-style Thanksgiving menu in the restaurant the week of November 22-27, but will also have the dishes available for take-out. Think whole stuffed turkey with Indian spices, tandoori grilled turkey tikka and turkey sheekh kebabs, sweet & sour pumpkin, and sweet potato halwa. Call for pricing.

The Old-Fashioned: Kenny & Zukes Pick up on Wednesday, November 24
Although they aren’t open on Thanksgiving itself, you can get the holiday goods to go if you order by Monday, November 22nd at 3pm. Select tasty, time-honored favorites like roast turkey breast stuffed with wild mushrooms, giblet gravy, cornbread stuffing with chestnuts and caramelized onions, garlic mashed potatoes, candied maple yams, cranberry/tangerine relish, and more. Call for pricing.

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Tags: Food News, Holiday Events, Thanksgiving

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