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Hidden Gem: Downtown’s Mizu Sushi

This wee four-seat sushi (and udon) counter is fresh, fast, and worth seeking out.

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The Tiger Roll: tuna, avocado, cucumber, spicy sauce & masago ($7.65)

Mizu Sushi (1338 SW 3rd Ave) is the kind of micro-eatery you might drive by every day for two and a half years (how long they’ve been open) as you make your way to Market St on your commute home, and fail to notice every time because you’re too busy fiddling with your earpiece.

In fact, I still might not know this teensy four-seater plus display case existed if it wasn’t for a glowing recommendation I recently received from Dayna McErlean, proprietress of Yakuza and DOC. McErlean labeled the udon “amazing,” and, indeed, Ruth (the woman who owns and runs the joint along with her mother) told me that this slurpy, steamy soup is one of their most popular menu items, especially during our dreary months (i.e. every month but August).

However, my first foray happened to take place on an unusually sunny day so I opted for the sushi instead, and found it to be solid. Solid as in not earth-shattering, but definitely return-worthy, with bonus points for an extensive menu, made-fresh-ness, and large portions for decent prices—think $2.85 for a simple 6-piece tuna or salmon maki roll, up to $8.25 for a prodigious 8-piece specialty roll and $8.95 for the 6-piece sashimi.

A highlight was the popular Tiger Roll ($7.65), a hearty combo of tuna, avocado, and cucumber, drizzled with a spicy sauce and generously speckled with masago. The tuna tasted fresh and wasn’t overpowered by the sauce, and the plentiful masago was soft and lacked the fishiness you sometimes find in lesser quality roe. It may not represent the best roll you’ll find in the Portland Metro area (for that I offer Maki Japanese Restaurant in Tigard), but it’s likely the best you’ll find downtown.

The seafood that topped the lovely Rainbow Roll ($8.25)—salmon, yellow tail, tuna, and ebi—had less flavor, but the dish was substantial and worth a second-try.

Vegetarian? This is a place where you can get something a smidge more interesting than avocado, cucumber, and carrots. The addition of cream cheese to this combo in the 8-piece Cream Cheese Vegetable roll ($5.95) makes for a rich, satisfying variation on a typical veggie sandwich, while the 8-piece Tofu Roll ($5.95) combines the earthy flavors of raw tofu and chilled cooked spinach with the snap of green onions.

Because I was feeling piggy, I also ordered the seaweed salad side ($2.95). It was generously dressed with a flavorful and well-balanced combo of sesame oil, vinegar, soy, and sugar, but there were a few limp, almost fishy dark green strands among the mostly bright green, springy mass, which made me think it had been sitting for a while. This may have had something to do with the fact that Mizu is a two woman show, which means you’ll have to hold your horses if there’s a line and occasionally items might be pre-made (hence some kvetching I saw on Yelp).

But I also might have just been bitter because they were out of veggie gyoza (potstickers).

Regardless, although the nature of Mizu’s size and location in a building straight of the movie Metropolis means it caters to the eat-at-your-desk crowd, I’d say it’s worth a mid-shopping or paying-a-parking-ticket lunch break for the rest of us as well. Check out the new Happy Hour menu, Mon-Fri, 4-7 pm.

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Tags: Southwest Dining, Cheap Eats, Downtown Dining, Sushi, Japanese Cuisine

Five Questions

Manager Q & A: Kyle Lovell

A chat about sips and snacks with the brains behind the sake list at Northeast Portland’s Yakuza.

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General manager Kyle Lovell prepares for another evening at Yakuza, a cozy and yet cosmopolitan lounge bedecked with murals and wood in Northeast.

View Slideshow » Illustration:

General manager Kyle Lovell prepares for another evening at Yakuza, a cozy and yet cosmopolitan lounge bedecked with murals and wood in Northeast.

View Slideshow » Illustration:

The infamous Yakuza Burger: Highland Oak beef, chèvre, shoestring potatoes, house catsup, and spicy mayo.

View Slideshow » Illustration:

The Salmon Tataki with blood orange oil, bamboo salt, and kaiware.

In a state with a near rabid obsession for its own bold pinot noir, bracing IPA, and hip boutique booze, a nuanced and non-homegrown beverage like sake doesn’t get a whole lot of attention.

Unless you’re Kyle Lovell, the general manager at Yakuza, Micah Camden and Dayna McErlean’s pretty Japanese cuisine-inspired pub (or izakaya) named for the Japanese mafia. Lovell’s love affair with the fragrant and versatile rice wine known as sake began in Vermont when she got her first job at a Japanese restaurant, but it truly blossomed after she arrived in Oregon thanks to an opportunity to take a much-coveted class, Yakuza, and Marcus Pakiser, the sake rep for Young’s Columbia. “He’s really dedicated to increasing awareness of sake out in the world, while at the same time suiting the individual needs of each restaurant,” Lovell says.

Here, Lovell explains the why’s and how’s of the ways in which sake can suit the individual needs of you.

1) Can you give us a crash course in what might make one sake different than another?

In the world of filtered sake there are different levels of refined rice that are used for brewing. A low percentage on a bottle, like 25-percent, means the rice has been milled down to a small portion of its original size. This will likely lead to a delicate sake. A higher percentage means more of the original grain was used, which often leads to a bold sake. However, the most glaring difference that you can visibly see is between Sake and Nigori Sake. Nigori is cloudy and has a thicker texture, but it is roughly-filtered rather than unfiltered like most people might assume.

2) What was the thinking behind how you built the Yakuza sake list?

I was fortunate enough to take a class with John Gauntner, an English-speaking sake “guru,” of which there are only two in the world. His Professional Sake Course teaches you about sake from the ground up. He really opened my eyes to the dynamics and allowed me to see where there were gaps in the Yakuza list. There are many different palates and several of our sakes taste completely different when paired with food. My goal was to have a taste variety that would include something for everyone, while at the same time offering a price range that made sake accessible to everyone.

3) Can you name three awesome food/sake pairings?

One: Our Salmon Tataki and the Seikyo “Mirror of Truth,” a great sipping sake that vastly changes when paired with food. The salmon has a seared edge with togarashi, a Japanese red pepper flake seasoning that allows the Seikyo to bounce off the spice and really open up its flavor.

Two: Our Yakuza Burger and Yuho. Most people wouldn’t think to drink sake with something as American as a burger, but this is a great example of how a meat-and-cheese dish can pair with sake and really elevate the palate. Yuho has an amazing robustness that brings out the flavor of the chèvre.

Three: Our Sashimi Trio and Wateri Bune 55. This combo is on my list of favorites not only because the citrus undertones in the Wateri Bune balance perfectly with the Thai chili spice on the Sashimi Trio, but because I have had some truly great experiences introducing customers to sake thanks to the Wateri Bune. It’s a great way to demonstrate how approachable and enjoyable sake can be for everyone.

4) What are a couple sake cocktails that make for easy drinkin’?

With a much lower alcohol content than liquor, sake both makes a great base for cocktails and mixes well with other, stronger types of alcohol. At Yakuza, one of our specialty drinks includes Nigori Sake, vodka, muddled cucumber, fresh lemon and lime, and a dash of simple syrup. The second would be a combo of Junmai Gingo, gin, marionberry, honey, lemon, and lavender.

5) If you could share a bottle of the finest sake with any celebrity in the world, who would it be and why?

I could go the selfless route and choose a high profile person with a lot of influence so that more people would recognize sake and be willing to give it a try—in my opinion, sake is as crucial to the knowledgeable drinker’s experience as wine. But I think I am going to have to choose Stevie Wonder because maybe we would have a grand old time and he would sing a couple songs to me. Maybe he would even slide over to the piano and write a song about me. That would be great.

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Tags: Cocktails, Northeast Dining, Best Burgers, Sushi, Japanese Cuisine, sake

Good Deed Eats

Do Good While You Dine

Starting with Southeast Portland’s Bamboo Sushi, select restaurants donate an entire night’s profits to the Oregon Environmental Council.

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If you can’t attend tomorrow night’s dinner/fundraiser, swing by tonight and order the “Gin Henson”—all profits from the sale of this popular herbaceous cocktail will be donated to OEC leading up to Tuesday’s event.

If you’re looking for a place to take a dinner date tomorrow night, or maybe impress some coworkers, hang with friends, or, oh, I dunno, actively support sustainability and sweeping eco-friendly policies on the legislative level, may I suggest you make your destination Southeast Portland’s Bamboo Sushi?

This Tuesday, October 12th, this splendid sushi joint—specializing in premium sakes, elegant cocktails, and environmentally ethical contemporary Japanese cuisine—will host the premier evening of the Oregon Environmental Council’s (OEC) new Taste Your Oregon (TYO) fundraising series. TYO is a monthly one-night-only event in which a participating restaurant agrees to donate all their profits from the evening to OEC. That’s right—every single penny of their profits. And, tomorrow night, all you have to do is dine on the same albacore carpaccio, Kobe beef patty melt, and Green Machine roll you would have eaten anyway.

“We’re hoping to have a line from the time we open until we seat the last guests at 10 p.m.,” says the owner of Bamboo Sushi, Kristofor Lofgren, who conceptualized and helped create the TYO program after recently joining OEC’s new eight-member board of local businesspeople all under the age of 35.

“We want to break our all-time sales record and then turn around and give all those earnings to OEC,” he says. “This is an organization that effects major change. Instead of simply protecting a single patch of trees, for example, they work to reform the logging policy for the entire state of Oregon. But working on the legislative level takes a lot of time and funding, so to support them, restaurants like mine—who have been fortunate in this recession—need to put our money behind our beliefs.”

The next official TYO events include North Portland’s Lincoln on November 10th and Thyme at FivePine in Sisters on December 8th, so mark your calendar. The OEC is also hoping to partner with some of their other favorite restaurants, including Higgins, Paley’s Place, Nostrana, and Toro Bravo in PDX, as well as JORY at The Allison Inn & Spa and The Painted Lady in Newberg and the Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge in Gold Beach.

But this Tuesday is all about the albacore at Bamboo Sushi. Of course, it wouldn’t hurt to go home with a few extra bottles of sake, as well, seeing as how it’s all for a good cause…

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Tags: Green, Southeast Dining, Sushi,

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