EAT BEAT

Charcuterie Chic

Olympic Provisions NW opens, bringing rotisserie chicken and handcrafted charcuterie to the far reaches of Northwest Portland.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Apr 27, 2011 at 11:05AM 0 Comments

Leave it to Nate Tilden and Elias Cairo to figure out the secret ingredient for truly phenomenal charcuterie. In order to make the best sausages, rillettes, pates, cured hams, frankfurters, and bratwurst around, you need to set up shop in the shadow of a bridge. The Olympic Provisions team launched their newest spot near the Fremont overpasses on NW 16th and Thurman, staking their meaty claim in yet another industrial area of our fair city. The new space is both neighborhood cafe and USDA-certified meat-curing headquarters, and reflects the same DIY design ethos as the charcuterie empire’s flagship space in the Central Eastside Industrial District, but with a brighter, more intimate feel. Check out our photos of the new space, and pop in for lunch or dinner before the new location is overshadowed by the next inevitable expansion of Tilden’s empire.

Olympic Provisions NW – 1632 NW Thurman St. 503-894-8136. Open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

While Cairo works his magic in the 4000-square-foot production facility connected to the restaurant, the open kitchen will be headed by former Clyde Common sous Erin Williams.

The menu will feature the classic sandwiches and charcuterie that made OP a household name, along with rustic Italian dishes like polenta with spring veggies, fried egg, and “cheese broth” ($12), ribeye steak with grilled romaine, salsa verde, and grana padano ($19) and rotisserie chicken from the adorable red eBay-scrounged roaster (complete with schmaltz potatoes, $15).

Left: Pull up a chair at the well-lit counter, grab a charcuterie plate ($12) and a specialty cocktail like the Whiskey Ginger, with Buffalo Trace, ginger beer, and lime ($8). Right: You gotta love a restaurant that stocks sausages in the mise en place.

The walls of windows and skylights illuminate the white subway-tiled walls, polished-metal meat slicer, handcrafted wine displays, and piles of salami wrapped in butcher paper topping the glass deli case.

The custom-built wine wall (filled with choice selections from wine director Star Black) and the kitchen counter’s frame were hand-fused by Tilden and his father – talk about a labor of love.

Expect Olympic Provisions NW to keep the laid-back, comfortable vibe of the original, with lunch offerings like hot ham-and-brie sandwiches, porchetta sandwich on ciabatta, and OP’s signature frankfurters.

“If it gets any brighter,” Tilden exclaimed, squinting into the sunlight streaming through the restaurant’s windows, “we might need blinds.” When they show up, you can bet they’ll be handcrafted as well.

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Tags: Portland Chefs, Restaurant Openings, Northwest Dining, Northwest Portland Dining, Openings, charcuterie, Opening Night

Flesh-Free Fine-Dining at Northeast’s Natural Selection

Portland vegetarians and vegans, rejoice! There’s finally a higher-priced (and delicious) eatery just for you!

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Mar 30, 2011 at 09:30AM 3 Comments

Natural Selection’s vegan Quinoa & Sunchoke Risotto Cake ($10).

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Natural Selection’s vegan Quinoa & Sunchoke Risotto Cake ($10).

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Natural Selection’s vegetarian Roasted Maitake Mushroom ($11).

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Natural Selection’s vegan Strawberry Rhubarb Shortcake ($8).

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Natural Selection’s vegetarian Chocolate Pots de Creme ($8).

I’ll admit it: I had reservations about my reservations at Natural Selection (3033 NE Alberta St), chef/owner Aaron Woo’s new higher-end vegetarian/vegan eatery. Why?

Despite being a life-long vegetarian—a girl who refused the flesh at the age of two—I think Woo’s more casual meat-free restaurant next door, Vita Café, is downright terrible. I’m sure such a verdict on my part will inspire hate mail, but every time I’ve tried to give that joint another chance, my food is bland and carelessly slapped together, the kind of flavorless, uninspired feed that justifies carnivores looking down on my kind. Cooking up simple chow is no excuse—there are plenty of low-key places in town that make a mean vegetarian sandwich alongside their reubens, cubanos, and turkey clubs.

Regardless, Natural Selection ostensibly aspires to grander things (a supper-club with a European feel, only available Wed-Sat) and every establishment deserves to be judged on its own merit, so, last Wednesday, there I went.

And there went a lot of other people (i.e Democrats of all ages) as well. The place was packed, so we had to sit for a short while. The hostess was extremely apologetic, but it gave me a chance to get a good look. Warm and woody, with mirrors and minimal art on the walls, it’s a classic (and borderline cliché) Portland establishment, open kitchen and all. That said, when you enter, the off-kilter set-up feels a little weird. Tables line the right side, while the kitchen and wait-staff station dominate the opposite, providing a less than elegant eyeful of the floor mats and garbage cans while you wait.

But that’s all easy to forget thanks to the distractions once you sit down. The menu consists of a column A (vegetarian) and a column B (vegan), each with four courses (appetizer, salad, entrée, and dessert). I recommend the four-course fixed price dinner for $35, which allows you to mix and match from both columns. A majority of the items are gluten-free and labeled as such, and there’s a note at the bottom that advises you to inform staff about additional allergies—which comes as no surprise, as Portland peeps seem to have more food issues than everyone else on the planet. There’s also a carefully-curated selection of spirits, beers, wines, and non-alcoholic drinks, including a delightfully sweet-tart house-made pomegranate soda.

Our meal began with a perfect amuse-buche—a creamy, salty bite of romesco between fried polenta cakes with a sprinkle of herbaceous chervil. It was a sign of things to come: a meal that was far more nuanced, refined, boldly flavorful, and, yes, tasty than I was expecting.

The vegetarian appetizer paired a delicately crispy on the outside, soft on the inside roasted maitake mushroom ($11) with the crunch of al dente asparagus. The accompanying fingerlings were a tad dry, but that was easily remedied by dragging them through the sweet-and-salt combo of balsamic reduction and an earthy mushroom jus. The miraculously buttery vegan app—a quinoa and sunchoke risotto cake ($10)—was equally enjoyable.

We chose to skip the vegan salad, as it didn’t strike me as anything new, but the vegetarian salad was a knockout. The crispness of the shredded raw Brussels sprouts paired beautifully with luscious hunks of ruby grapefruit and sunchokes, bitterness expertly balanced by salty parmesan and toasted pinenuts.

My major (and only real) complaint is the entrées. The vegetarian sweet potato and pear cannelloni ($15) gets an A for creativity, and an F for execution. It was shockingly sweet and mushy, like a grainy pie-spice pudding. The vegan beluga lentils and agave glazed carrots ($14) was tasty enough, but reminded me of the boring meals I toss together when I’m busy. At least, however, it offered the protein I was missing in the other dish.

But things quickly improved. The palate cleanser that followed—a refreshing and sophisticated mint and lime ice served in a chilled martini glass—was akin to an edible version of wandering through a summer garden.

And the dessert… Obviously, it isn’t difficult to do a vegetarian dessert if eggs and dairy are at your disposal. But this chocolate pots de crème ($8), with its deep cocoa flavor and essence of boiled cream, was one of the yummiest things I have ever eaten, a strong challenger to the butterscotch budino at Nostrana. I wanted to climb inside it. The vegan strawberry rhubarb shortcake ($8) gets a less lavish review due to the dense, doughy pastry, but the berries were delicious, as was the lavender coconut cream.

I wouldn’t plan to hit up Natural Selection if you’re looking for a quick bite, as our meal took nearly three hours. But I was truly impressed, plan to return, and would recommend it. It’s a clever concept, stylishly executed, and is a strong start to filling the gaping veg-friendly high-end dining hole that we have here in Portland. (See our own EAT BEAT debate on the subject.) With only eight items that are a bit protein-deficient and priced rather high if ordered individually, I do wonder how long this conceit can last; but it’s a joy to dine on dishes that have clearly been lovingly created—and to leave an almost perfect meal without feeling like I need a nap.

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Tags: Restaurant Openings, Northeast Dining, Vegetarian Friendly, vegan, First Impressions

5 questions for: NE Portland pioneer, Sarah Pliner

As NE Alberta’s Aviary takes flight, one of the three chefs talks cuisine and collaboration.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Feb 02, 2011 at 09:00AM 1 Comments

Wine director Leah Moorhead and co-chefs Katherine Whitehead, Jasper Shen, and Sarah Pliner.

Photo by Farhard J. Parsa.

Aviary, a new small-plates restaurant with a we-are-the-world menu and a trio of New York’s finest dining-trained chefs, opened for business yesterday at 1733 NE Alberta St.

I have eagerly been anticipating this eatery ever since I received the letter notifying me about their application for a liquor license a few months back—I live about a 30 second walk away from their front door. The Alberta area has its fair share of coffee shops, bars, and quirky boutiques, but it hasn’t exactly been a destination for classy dining. Aviary, with its three co-owner/chefs (Sarah Pliner, Jasper Shen, and Katherine Whitehead) is seeking to change that, while also celebrating the neighborhood’s communal spirit and strong sense of creative expression—the space features reclaimed wood crafted into everything from pantry shelving to banquettes, lighting from Rejuvenation, and, of course, local art.

A very-busy chef Pliner was kind enough to give us a preview of Alberta’s latest nest for nibbles.

1) Why the name Aviary?

It started with a mah jong tile, the smallest bamboo, which has a little bird on it. We thought it was cute but curious, because there doesn’t seem to be a reason it should be a bird. Then we were thinking about what we all want to do long-term, and Kat had been doing some freelance dessert work under the name katbird, so we thought that someday there might be other “birds”—a bake shop, a bar, etc. When we got our LLC, we called it Aviary, and while we were trying to find a real name, that place-holder kind of grew on us. I also felt like it had some relevance to what we’re trying to do, both with the food and the feel of the restaurant—that it should be a home to many different kinds of birds.

2) Can you give us a snapshot of what you’re serving?

The menu features modern French technique, but using ingredients and ideas from around the globe. It’s small plates so people can share and try many different things. Three dishes not to miss include: the dungeness crab dressed with a lemon emulsion, brioche croutons, and a thin slice of winter melon, and then topped with mentaiko (spiced cod roe) and kinome, the leaf of the szechuan peppercorn plant, which is citrusy and floral tasting; ox tail croquettes made from ox tail braised with sweet spices, then breaded and deep fried, and served with tomato jam flavored with ginger, lemongrass, cinnamon, and star anise; and brioche-crusted halibut with sea urchin and shiso rolled inside, sesame seed spinach, and a cucumber shiso sauce.

We also have some house cocktails made with local spirits and seasonal infusions, and a small, focused wine list with most of the mainly French and local wines available by the glass or bottle, and we are working on making our own sodas.

3) Three chefs, eh? How exactly does that work?

We argue about all the front-of-the-house decisions, such as chairs, tables, and flatware, until we get sick of arguing and someone gives in. In the kitchen, for the most part, Jasper and I collaborate on the savory, and Kat and I work on the pastry together, but there’s nothing that goes on the menu that we don’t all agree on. None of the three of us can see the point in giving someone a title that would allow them to ignore useful input—even if we named ourselves chef, pastry chef, and sous chef, that’s not how it would work.

4) Why Alberta and what do you think you can add to the neighborhood?

It’s a fun, eclectic neighborhood—there are always people out and there’s always something going on. I think we bring a different style of food from anything that’s on Alberta right now, maybe a little more refined, while keeping the front-of-the-house experience relaxed and casual.

5) What other restaurants in town are currently rocking your world?

I enjoyed Biwa the vegetable dishes. I think the attention to detail there was exceptional, and I really like izakayas and trying lots of different things. Also, Olympic Provisions, because they do their own charcuterie, which is really brave, and they do it amazingly well. I don’t get out much right now, so when I do, it’s nice for it to be a bit of an adventure.

Hours: Mon-Thurs, 5-10pm; Fri & Sat, 5-11pm

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Tags: Restaurant Openings, Wine, Northeast Dining, five questions, French, small plates

5 questions for: wine country wizard ERIC BECHARD

Thistle’s dashing defender of local pigs dishes about the upcoming Community Plate and other places to eat good in his neighborhood.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Jan 14, 2011 at 09:30AM 0 Comments

Eric Bechard, commander-in-chef of wine country’s classy Thistle, will be opening a new establishment in McMinnville this February. Sporting a more casual, everybody-knows-your-name vibe, Community Plate will cater to the area’s indigenous populace—cellar rats, tasting room kids, wine makers, Linfield College students, restaurant industry folk, and neighborhood peeps. Well, and any out-of-towners who want to drive over and appreciate the cornucopia of native food and drink that spilleth over in Oregon’s wine country.

According to the 32-year-old restaurateur, his new venture’s cuisine will be an extension of the philosophies that guide Thistle, namely a fierce passion for cooking with meat, fish, cheese, and produce that is only a hop, skip, or short drive from its origins.

The Morning Menu (8-11:30am) will feature Stumptown coffee and treats like baked eggs and house-made scones, croissants, and breakfast breads. For Lunch (11:30am-4pm), expect seasonal salads, soups, and sandwiches, as well as a Ploughmans plate and small bites such as deviled eggs and spiced filberts. At Dinner (5-10pm) you can select a protein like roast chicken, meatloaf, or rockfish to pair with sides like mashed potatoes, collard greens, and spring peas. And it’s all served in airy, refurbished 120-year-old historic building in Old Town (3rd Street) with antique industrial décor, communal tables, and an open kitchen, natch.

We caught up with the busy Bechard and asked for an insider’s POV on Community Plate and the region he holds so dear.

1) With one successful wine country restaurant already under your belt, why this style of restaurant in this location right now?

Because it doesn’t exist. Made up of many communities, wine country is not just a tourist destination. The locals want something that can offer the quality of a “wine country restaurant” without the price tag—a casual neighborhood eatery that appeals to everyone who calls the Willamette Valley home.

2) You refer to the menu as “Old School Cookery”—what exactly does that mean?

Classic Americana, pork chops and applesauce, the dishes and foods our grandmothers made for us as children. The twists will be in the techniques and ingredients, making these dishes new and exciting while at the same time familiar.

3) If someone was going to eat breakfast, lunch AND dinner at Community Plate in one day, what eats are too awesome to be missed?

Start with an espresso and a bowl of steel-cut oats with buckwheat honey and dried figs. Midday, get the thick-cut bacon and soft-boiled egg sandwich with a cup of green tomato soup. To end the day, have the burger (1/3 pound ground chuck, horseradish mayo, caramelized onions, white cheddar, and arugula) and house-cut fries or roast chicken with baked mac and cheese and vinegary greens. Either way, finish with a slice of huckleberry pie and loose cream.

4) Who do you look to for culinary inspiration?

I am inspired by farmers, winemakers, and chefs who are passionate about their craft. Farm: Kullas (Oakhill Organics), Mike (Gaining Ground Farm), Mckibbons (McK Ranch), and Judy (Slow Food Yamhill County). Wine Industry: Tad (Ransom Wines & Spirits), The Myers (Vinetenders), and Remy (Remy Wines). Chefs: Matt Lightner (Castagna) and Ben Meyer (Grain & Gristle). Individuals who are striving to make their culinary scene and community more interesting and diverse get me excited to be part of this field.

5) What are some other wine country restaurants you’re loving right now?

The Blue Goat in Amity (amazing vegetarian empanadas), El Paraiso Taco Truck (the beef tongue and goat torta is happiness on a bun), and Kame—the udon noodle soup with a poached egg is Japanese comfort food.

Community Plate hours: Tues & Wed, 8am-4pm, Thurs-Mon, 8am-10pm.

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Tags: Restaurant Openings, Interview, 5 questions, wine country

Good Eats at Grain & Gristle

Parking on NE Prescott is about to get a little dicier, thanks to great beer and step-above grub at Grain & Gristle.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Jan 05, 2011 at 08:00AM 3 Comments

Mon-Fri, noon-midnight
Sat & Sun, 5pm-midnight
Weekend brunch begins January 8th, 9am-3pm

Glancing around Grain & Gristle’s warm and woody interior (a U-shaped maple bar, exposed beams, wood table tops and chairs, wooden salt and pepper shakers), I have the distinct impression that I could be an extra in an episode of a modern version of Thirtysomething. I’m nearly 34 and the peeps that pack the tables look to be my kind of crowd—casually dressed and mildly tired thirty-somethings who want great food and drink without the pomp or high prices.

Of course, there are also a few groups of perfectly happy older folks and a couple pairs of younger lovers nervously trying to impress each other (I bet they drove home talking about how they both love Williamsburg), but I relish the feeling—false though it may be—that this gastropub was made for me.

Ben Meyer—who co-owns the joint with Marcus Hoover and Alex Ganum, owner of Upright Brewing —told me that having lived in the neighborhood (G&G’s location is 1473 NE Prescott) for years, he always wished there was a comfortable place where he could go alone after work and grab a bite and a pint, but also take his girlfriend for a full meal.

Well, he built it and local livers seem only too happy to come—my husband and I, who live about five blocks away, made our first foray on a recent Sunday around 6:30pm and had to wait 10 minutes for a table. Seating is done free-for-all style, but the cheery servers actually keep watch and help direct traffic.

My first move upon sitting was to scan the drink menu: three wines, a carefully curated selection of booze, and a handful of alcohol-free options like the extra-fizzy bottomless house mineral water for $1. But the real standout libation is the beer. The board above the bar catalogs bottled options and eight rotating brews on tap, including a refreshingly bitter Beer Valley Leafer Madness and a palette-pleasing Block 15 Pappy’s Dark, aged in bourbon barrels. Most beers are available in 8oz, 12oz, and pint pours.

The food menu—broken up into Salt, Vegetables, Protein, Cheese, 2-fers (a couple-friendly special entrée, two sides, and two beers), and Sweet—showcases local farmers, ranchers, and craft producers, but many of the dishes are reminiscent of countries like Germany and Belgium. In other words, countries that are known for their beer.

Salt ($3-$5) is mostly snacks like pork rinds, house pickles, and a Fressen pretzel. Vegetables ($4-$7) include three simple salads, two sides, and house-made “Freedom Fries” and onion rings. I loved the piquant kick and char on the Mustardy Brussels, although they were a couple leaves too soft for my taste. But I could have happily eaten a soup tureen full of the crisp romaine salad with sweet pickled onion, snipped herbs, and a silky coating of maytag bleu dressing.

As for Protein ($8-$10), salt cod fritters and Belgian-style mussel frites share the billing with classics like braised pork, a pastrami reuben, and Portland’s ever-present burger. On the lighter side, a spicy pork link gets a touch of cooling sour sweetness with cabbage, apples, and a drizzle of sour cream. For now, it appears vegetarians will have to make do with Steven’s three-cheese board ($10). It wasn’t particularly exciting the night I was there, but the portions were more than fair.

I also liked the look of the Sweets (think apple pie with a cheddar crust and custard for $6) because they sounded like comfort food and art at the same time. But we had over-burdened gastrointestinal systems from spending Christmas in Paris, so we decided to save dessert for our second visit.

Which will surely be soon. The space is great, the beer is boffo, and the food is well on its way. To quote the table of straightforward thirtysomethings sitting next to me, This is a really great addition to the neighborhood!”

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Tags: Beer, Restaurant Openings, Cheap Date, Bar Openings, Northeast Dining, First Impressions

Get a Life

Living foods and vegan goods at the all new Green Lady, just opened downtown.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Dec 13, 2010 at 10:00AM 4 Comments

Pure Energy on a Plate: living greens and pomegranate seeds.

Move over Blossoming Lotus, there’s a hot new vegan venue in town. Now in a soft-opening phase at 1016 SW Washington St. ( M-F: 8:30am-5pm, Sat: 10am-5pm, Closed Sun), with a grand opening event to take place January 1, The Green Lady specializes in “living” (aka raw) foods and creative, ethnic-influenced vegan, organic fare, available both dine-in and take-out.

The background for this new gourmet health hub reads like a pitch for a Hollywood movie:

Mississippi lawyer, former hot wings restaurant proprietress, and four-year living foods veteran, Wanda Abioto, moved to Portland with her five daughters—Intisar (24), Hanifah (23), Kalimah (23), Amenta, (19), and Aisha (10)—on “an adventure.” Their collective goal? To incubate a restaurant that dishes up edible energy (currently hot as hell in L.A., by the way) and eventually expand their empire back to the south, where an interest in vegan, organic, and living foods has only just begun to sprout.

Fittingly, the menu will continue to evolve, but right now it includes a range of elixirs, smoothies, and drinks concocted with purely living ingredients like spirulina, citrus, leafy greens, cacao, and house-made nut milks e.g. almond, cashew, hazelnut, and Brazil nut, which also come in creams to top tea and cold-press coffee infusions. (Cold-press coffee has far less acid than hot brews, which results in far less gut rot.)

Soon they will offer a range of meals, both cooked (African pho, coconut lentil soup) and purely living, such as tomato basil soup and locally foraged marinated dehydrated mushrooms in a hot & spicy Memphis barbecue sauce. “I never thought I could give up hot wings,” says Mama Abioto, “but these pull apart just like chicken!”

Energy-enthusiasts can also look forward to living sweet treats (Amenta’s specialty) and themed supper club evenings, including a soul food night and the Midnight Scoffers, Intisar’s 12am feast which got its name from an obscure ‘80s flick.

Perhaps the Abioto clan can make sticking to our New Year’s resolutions a little less painful.

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Tags: Food News, Restaurant Openings, vegan, juice bar, living foods

A Sneakpeek at St. Jack’s Menu

Get a peek at what’s for dinner at the new SE Clinton St eatery from Aaron Barnett/ChefStable, open for regular dinner service December 27.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Dec 08, 2010 at 09:00AM 0 Comments

This just in—a snapshot of the preliminary dinner menu for Southeast’s St. Jack:

Petit Plats, featuring simple, low-priced nibbles like Local Oysters with mignonette for $2 each, and Cervelle de Canut (warm marinated goat cheese with toasted baguette) for $6.

Hors D’oeuvres, consisting of soups, salads, and light-bites, such as the Salade Lyonnaise (frisee, bacon lardons, poached runner duck egg & bacon fat croutons) for $8, the Fisherman’s Stew with scallops, poached oysters, salmon roe & leeks ($12), and Sweetbreads, served with cauliflower puree and bacon, leek & caper vinaigrette ($12).

Plats Principaux, presenting the likes of Fried Rabbit with celeriac remoulade, honey & lemon, Coq a la Biere (half a chicken braised in farmhouse ale, with pearl onions, wild mushrooms & bacon) for $20, and—praise the lord!—Le Hamburger, which comes with gruyere, St. Jack sauce & pommes frites ($10), but you can gussy it up with bacon, caramelized onions, boudin noir, or a different cheese from their list.

There’s also a selection of Charcuterie De Maison (duh—this is Portland), and the delectable Desserts we mentioned last Friday.

As noted in that previous post, the pâtisserie portion of chef Aaron Barnett and ChefStable’s Kurt Huffman’s Lyonnaise-influenced bouchon (with pastries by Alissa Rozos) opens for business Monday, December 13, at 7am. You can also sign-up online now for a series soft-opening preview dinners on December 20, 21, and 22.

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Tags: Southeast Dining, Food News, Restaurant Openings, French, Bakery

Southeast’s St. Jack To Open Soon

The new Aaron Barnett/ChefStable SE Clinton St eatery is opening in three phases, starting Monday, December 13.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Dec 03, 2010 at 12:00PM 0 Comments

Extra! Extra! Read all about it! In just over a week, the highly-anticipated new venture from chef Aaron Barnett and ChefStable’s Kurt Huffman — the Lyonnaise-influenced bouchon and pâtisserie combo, St. Jack — will be welcoming its first customers at 2039 SE Clinton St.

This is a grand opening in three acts.

ACT ONE: Monday, December, 13, the pâtisserie portion will begin serving coffee, pastries, and lunch items seven days a week, 7am-4pm. As EaterPDX reported, former Bluehour pastry chef Alissa Rozos will now be running St. Jack’s pasty department (think éclairs, croissants, cannelle, and madeleines), as well as sweetening the deal by producing tasty treats like apple tart tatin with fromage blanc ice cream and chocolate soufflé with Grand Marnier crème anglaise for the restaurant’s dessert menu.

“Alissa is super talented,” says Huffman. “We are really excited for her to have her own storefront.”

The lunch menu will consist of simple, classic French soups, charcuterie, and sandwiches served on the très français baguette from little t american baker.

ACT TWO: Go online at www.stjackpdx.com ASAP to reserve your spot for one of the restaurant’s soft-opening preview dinners on December 20, 21, and 22. A jaw-dropping deal, $60 gets you a prix fixe menu with wine and beer pairings and an open bar. You heard me right, and the ticket price includes gratuity.

ACT THREE: The restaurant opens for reals December 27, and will be dishing up delectable down-home French country dinners Monday through Saturday until 10pm. The transition from bakery to restaurant will begin at 4pm, with Happy Hour starting at 4:30pm. Online reservations will be available in a couple weeks.

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Tags: Southeast Dining, Food News, Restaurant Openings, French, Bakery

SE Belmont’s Not So Hidden Gem

Roost is doing something really, really right—now they just need the people to prove it.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Nov 01, 2010 at 08:00AM 4 Comments

This year I decided to forgo the urge to dress up as a sexy something (nurse, nutcracker, UPS driver, banana, etc.), and instead spend my pre-Halloween Saturday night having dinner with an old friend at Roost. Located at 1408 SE Belmont St, the spare, bright, white-and-wood space with strips of coat pegs along the walls seemed like a good place to dine on a soggy evening.

I was also curious. This 40-seat venture belongs to Megan Henzel who apparently used to private chef for celebs in NYC. But I have yet to read a major review and only a few folks have weighed in online. When we walked in, another table was just leaving, but, other than that, the place was empty and stayed empty throughout our meal. So, here is my two cents, based on a one-night-only experience:

It was awesome. Really, really, really good.

Although the Maple Soaked Bacon Chop (a giant pork chop wrapped in bacon) with optional house-made marshmallow was tempting, as was the Open Faced Braised Beef “Burger” Wrapped in Caul (mmm… membrane), we opted for the Grilled Skirt Steak with “big red wine sauce,” blue cheese mashed potatoes, and sautéed spinach.

The steak, a perfect medium rare, was juicy and tender, which is difficult to do with skirt. The simple-seeming sauce enhanced the rich umami quality of the meat and the cheese in the creamy potatoes was subtle—perhaps a smidge too subtle, but less is definitely more when it comes to dosing dishes with the stinky stuff.

The Roasted Beet Salad presented large chunks of earthy beets (which I prefer over the from-a-can-style slices) in a pool of mild horseradish cream and topped with a handful of peppery watercress. On the side sat two pieces of a dense, moist brown bread that tasted of sweet dates (regardless of whether it was actually made with dates), each topped with a heaping spoonful of salty, creamy egg salad. It was unique, flavorful, and satisfying.

Cauliflower Fritters with Mustard Cream? Succulent and addictive.

A side of Deep Fried Brussell Sprouts? Juicy, with a light crisp, and they knocked the pants off the sprouts I had the night before at Ned Ludd.

The all-Oregon wine and beer list doesn’t go deep, but it has a great range, and it’s affordable.

I have it on good authority that Roost’s brunch may leave a bit to be desired, and I’ve only had one meal there myself, of course. But soon I’ll be able to write a more solid opinion, because I am definitely going back.

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Tags: Southeast Dining, Restaurant Openings, Food Find

Two Frankies Portland Project On Hold

An anticipated collaboration between Brookyn’s bearded restaurant wonders and Stumptown’s Duane Sorensen is off the table (for now).

Posted by: Karen Brooks on Oct 11, 2010 at 05:16PM 0 Comments

Let’s be Frank. This is not good news. Word from our friends at Eater PDX earlier this year that Brooklyn food stars Frank Falcinelli and Frank Castronovo were bringing their radical comfort food to Portland was cause for celebration—and hope that the fun-loving, food-serious and old-world-obsessed restaurateurs would challenge Portland’s bar.

But word has been circulating that the red-hot Frankies are busy with other projects. On the front burner: a new West Village restaurant with elements drawn from their Italian-American Frankies Spuntino and German-centric Prime Meats. No doubt they’re looking at more opportunities with Sorenson, their partner in Brooklyn’s Café Pedlar and master of the coffee universe.

The restaurant was to slated to take over the empty storefront next to Stumptown on Division Street.

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Tags: Coffee and Tea, Food News, Restaurant Openings

Chef Q & A: Ben Meyer

The former helm of Ned Ludd jaws about getting a brew and a bite to eat at Grain & Gristle, opening soon on NE Prescott.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Oct 08, 2010 at 12:00PM 1 Comments

My husband and I are always arguing about where to eat. I love creative, expertly-prepared food, but most of the places where you can get it are far too fancy for my beer-loving husband’s taste.

All I can say is thank god for Ben Meyer, Alex Ganum (owner/head brewer of Upright Brewing Company), and Marcus Hoover, who has designed some of Portland’s premier kitchens, including Toro Bravo, Nostrana, and the new Pinot American Brasserie. Their latest endeavor, Grain & Gristle, scheduled to open December 1st at 1473 Northeast Prescott, will actually make both me and my husband happy. It will be a casually cool space with an extensive beer list and a menu, showcasing local farmers, ranchers, and craft producers, that is both awesome and affordable. Even better, they will be open noon to midnight Monday through Friday, and 9 a.m. (yay, brunch!) to midnight on the weekends.

Here, Meyer is kind enough to answer a few questions about an establishment where my husband and I will likely go at least once a week, so that we can fight about things other than where to eat.

1) It sounds like this joint will have a serious focus on beer—what are a few of the labels you’re likely to feature?

Alex is curating the beer list, so I can’t guarantee anything, but you can bet on Walking Man being represented, as well as Double Mountain. Upright will have a stable tap, but we will rotate through their four year-round beers and some of their more unusual seasonal creations, such as Late Harvest, a Pinot Noir barrel-aged farmhouse brown ale brewed with spices.

2) I’ve heard word that your menu will aim to “heighten and support the flavors on the beer list”—do tell?

At Ned Ludd there were a lot of beers that I could never have on tap because they were too hoppy or too sour. It’s a food place and the beer is a supporting player. Grain & Gristle will be a beer place, and we’ll cook foods that we think showcase the beers’ flavors. For instance, the Upright Four and Belgian mussel frites with onion, fennel, and cream is amazing, especially when you include the beer in the preparation. The sour wheaty-ness balances the briny dankness of the mussels, and the bubbles in the beer want fat so the fries become an amazing vessel to bring it all together! People often think that wine is the natural food-pairing beverage, but beer actually works better most of the time.

3) Can you give us a head’s up about what the menu will look like?

I kept the sections vague enough that we could play around within them, but made sure to cover the basics: Salt, such as spiced pork rinds with a mustardy dipper, because salty things taste good with beer and make you want to drink more; Vegetables, treated as simply as possible to make them shine; Protein, such as a pastrami reuben or braised pork shoulder with creamy beans and kale; Cheese, by Steve’s Cheese, because it’s the most natural beer-pairing in the universe; and Sweets, such as apple buckle or caramel panna cotta, which can also really heighten a lot of beers. We’ll do a big shift of the menu once a month, but little things will change all the time, and we’ll have specials as well as a $20 “two-fer”—a hearty dinner with two glasses of beer, meant to be shared by a couple. The two-fer will change daily but will look something like “grilled half chicken, mashers, greens.”

4) What made you decide that Northeast Prescott was the place to plop down?

I’ve lived in the neighborhood for years and always wished there was a comfortable place close-by where I could both go alone after work and grab a bite and a pint, or take my girlfriend for a full meal and spend some time. This space came up and Alex, Marcus, and I thought it would be perfect. I love Podnah’s Pit Barbeque, and was excited to be located next to Rodney Muirhead, the chef/owner. I was bummed, of course, when I found out he was moving his restaurant to Northeast Killingsworth, but then Andy Ricker started looking at that space (for Pok Pok Noi, or Little Pok Pok) and I knew it would still be magical. I love complete neighborhood pods. We have an amazing coffee shop (Extracto), a great lounge (TiGA), a barber shop, and the drum shop. The neighborhood can come to our little strip to get a lot of things they need every day.

5) If you could have any two people in the world—one alive and one dead—belly up to your u-shaped maple bar, who would it be?

Sheesh. Um, living… Ian Mackaye from Minor Threat and Fugazi—I would just love to have a beer with the guy who coined the concept of straight-edge. And dead… Edward Abbey. That cantankerous coot would be the best drinking buddy to ever stand up for his convictions.

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Tags: Northeast, Restaurant Openings, Bar Openings, Northeast Dining, five questions

Hiro Ikegaya to open Mirakutei

Local sushi master will open Japanese-style “tapas” joint

Posted by: Karen Brooks on Oct 06, 2010 at 04:50PM 0 Comments

Hiro Ikegaya, whose beautiful knife work makes his Hiroshi a Pearl District destination, has a new project in the works. Mirakutei will be a 32-seat bar/eatery at 524 E Burnside, next to the bustling, artful dive bar Rontoms.

Ikegaya says the focus is Sapporo-style ramen noodles, sushi rolls and “Japanese tapas with contemporary Southern California creativity,” a specialty of the chef that he is transporting to Portland from Los Angeles. Scheduled to open in late October or early November, Mirakutei will be open daily, until midnight, with prices $4-$10. Ikegaya plans to stay at his post at Hiroshi.

Ikegaya has been talking about a noodle house for some time now, but our friend’s at Eater PDX snooped out the news that the sushi master had applied for a liquor license. Mirakutei translates roughly as “enjoy our tasty food house.” We hope to do just that.

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Tags: Portland Chefs, Food News, Restaurant Openings