EAT BEAT

5 questions for: NE Portland pioneer, Sarah Pliner

As NE Alberta’s Aviary takes flight, one of the three chefs talks cuisine and collaboration.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Feb 02, 2011 at 09:00AM 1 Comments

Wine director Leah Moorhead and co-chefs Katherine Whitehead, Jasper Shen, and Sarah Pliner.

Photo by Farhard J. Parsa.

Aviary, a new small-plates restaurant with a we-are-the-world menu and a trio of New York’s finest dining-trained chefs, opened for business yesterday at 1733 NE Alberta St.

I have eagerly been anticipating this eatery ever since I received the letter notifying me about their application for a liquor license a few months back—I live about a 30 second walk away from their front door. The Alberta area has its fair share of coffee shops, bars, and quirky boutiques, but it hasn’t exactly been a destination for classy dining. Aviary, with its three co-owner/chefs (Sarah Pliner, Jasper Shen, and Katherine Whitehead) is seeking to change that, while also celebrating the neighborhood’s communal spirit and strong sense of creative expression—the space features reclaimed wood crafted into everything from pantry shelving to banquettes, lighting from Rejuvenation, and, of course, local art.

A very-busy chef Pliner was kind enough to give us a preview of Alberta’s latest nest for nibbles.

1) Why the name Aviary?

It started with a mah jong tile, the smallest bamboo, which has a little bird on it. We thought it was cute but curious, because there doesn’t seem to be a reason it should be a bird. Then we were thinking about what we all want to do long-term, and Kat had been doing some freelance dessert work under the name katbird, so we thought that someday there might be other “birds”—a bake shop, a bar, etc. When we got our LLC, we called it Aviary, and while we were trying to find a real name, that place-holder kind of grew on us. I also felt like it had some relevance to what we’re trying to do, both with the food and the feel of the restaurant—that it should be a home to many different kinds of birds.

2) Can you give us a snapshot of what you’re serving?

The menu features modern French technique, but using ingredients and ideas from around the globe. It’s small plates so people can share and try many different things. Three dishes not to miss include: the dungeness crab dressed with a lemon emulsion, brioche croutons, and a thin slice of winter melon, and then topped with mentaiko (spiced cod roe) and kinome, the leaf of the szechuan peppercorn plant, which is citrusy and floral tasting; ox tail croquettes made from ox tail braised with sweet spices, then breaded and deep fried, and served with tomato jam flavored with ginger, lemongrass, cinnamon, and star anise; and brioche-crusted halibut with sea urchin and shiso rolled inside, sesame seed spinach, and a cucumber shiso sauce.

We also have some house cocktails made with local spirits and seasonal infusions, and a small, focused wine list with most of the mainly French and local wines available by the glass or bottle, and we are working on making our own sodas.

3) Three chefs, eh? How exactly does that work?

We argue about all the front-of-the-house decisions, such as chairs, tables, and flatware, until we get sick of arguing and someone gives in. In the kitchen, for the most part, Jasper and I collaborate on the savory, and Kat and I work on the pastry together, but there’s nothing that goes on the menu that we don’t all agree on. None of the three of us can see the point in giving someone a title that would allow them to ignore useful input—even if we named ourselves chef, pastry chef, and sous chef, that’s not how it would work.

4) Why Alberta and what do you think you can add to the neighborhood?

It’s a fun, eclectic neighborhood—there are always people out and there’s always something going on. I think we bring a different style of food from anything that’s on Alberta right now, maybe a little more refined, while keeping the front-of-the-house experience relaxed and casual.

5) What other restaurants in town are currently rocking your world?

I enjoyed Biwa the vegetable dishes. I think the attention to detail there was exceptional, and I really like izakayas and trying lots of different things. Also, Olympic Provisions, because they do their own charcuterie, which is really brave, and they do it amazingly well. I don’t get out much right now, so when I do, it’s nice for it to be a bit of an adventure.

Hours: Mon-Thurs, 5-10pm; Fri & Sat, 5-11pm

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Tags: Restaurant Openings, Wine, Northeast Dining, five questions, French, small plates

Happy Hour of the Week: Little Bird

The peeps behind Le Pigeon are now feeding eager beavers with their downtown bistro’s new Early Hour menu.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Jan 21, 2011 at 10:00AM 2 Comments

Little Bird’s ‘Le Pigeon’ Burger, with lettuces ($9).

Rambling around downtown and in need of a decadent weekday nosh sometime between 3 and 5pm, but don’t want a decadent tab? Little Bird is now able to meet that need with a new menu of “Early Hour” specials.

This late afternoon spread includes all the red-hot French bistro’s chalkboard items with around $2-$6 knocked off the price. Snack on a trio of cheeses (raw cow, sheep, and goat) for $10, or a charcuterie plate ($14) piled with three saucissons from Olympic Provisions and house-made pork rillette. The daily dozen oysters will run you $20, but the soupe du jour is only six bucks.

If you’re an LB newbie, your best bet is probably the much coveted, limited-edition at bad-boy big brother restaurant Le Pigeon but available all the time at Little Bird ‘Le Pigeon’ burger, accompanied by your choice of fries or lettuces for $9. A more adventurous choice, however, especially if you have a partner in dining, is the roasted marrow bones with onions and aged balsamic, also $9. “They’re really rich and great for sharing,” says Little Bird co-owner and general manager, Andrew Fortgang.

Fortgang also recommends using these early hours to sample bar guru Jonny Ericsen’s specialty cocktails, which are priced at $6 rather than the normal $9. “I suggest the Van Kleef and the Antoinette,” he says. “Both are representative of their namesakes, but you will have to try them to see what I mean.”

I accept that challenge, good sir.

Early Hours: Mon-Fri, 3-5pm

Address: 219 SW 6th Ave

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Tags: Happy Hour, Southwest Dining, Best Burgers, Downtown Dining, French

Happy Hour of the Week: Fenouil

Happy hour food that will actually make you forget about your wine, even when it’s a brilliantly matched glass of full, crisp, spicy Daedalus Gruner Veltliner.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Jan 12, 2011 at 08:00AM 1 Comments

Fenouil’s melt-in-your-mouth confit chicken wings with candied garlic, scallion, and Sriracha aioli for $6!

Happy Hour: Mon-Fri, 4-6pm

Address: 900 NW 11th Ave

In its previous cuisine incarnation, Fenouil —a glamorous two-tier dining room resplendent in cream-colored stone, polished wood, soft chocolate fabrics, and a crackling fireplace, with a wall of gleaming glass offering views of the Pearl District’s Jamison Square—fancied itself an “urban French brasserie.” I could argue that title simply based on the fact that the place is enormous and there is space between the tables; however, the menu itself began to shift toward contemporary Pacific Northwest fare anyway, when chef Jake Martin (formerly of the Carlyle) came on board in early 2010.

If, in recent months, you have been reluctant to check out what Mr. Martin is up to due to the prices or the posh décor, your time has come. Fenouil is now offering a new recession-friendly Small Plates menu, available in the cozy lounge, and you can get those dishes for a whopping 50-percent off during Happy Hour from 4-6pm, seven nights a week.

Yesterday I popped into try it and the one thing I keep wanting to say is “Well, I’ll be!” This is one killer happy hour. Not only is a glass of white, red, or sparkling wine du jour only $5, the small plates menu has great range (e.g. ahi tuna crudo with antique apples, shoyu, and white miso, or pate “en brioche” with dijon vinaigrette, chicory salad, and radish), and the happy hour prices are stellar—I mean, how often can you fill your belly in fine dining for only $5.50???

That’s the price of the house-ground burger. Paired with a mass of shoestring hand-cut fries, you get a hefty patty cooked to succulent perfection, topped with white cheddar, pickled onion, and bacon, and served on an exquisite Ken’s Artisan Bakery bun—genuinely soft in the middle and just a touch crispy on the outside thanks to a wash of butter. I think this burger deserves a shot at this year’s “best of” list.

Another personal favorite: The ever-so-tender, sticky, spicy, and not-too-sweet confit chicken wings ($6). Falling-off-the-bone, you could eat them with a fork or simply get your hands messy if you think pretension should take a backseat to pleasure.

Vegetarians can snack on an insanely decadent, creamy caramelized onion tart ($5.50) with whipped brie and a bitter herb salad, or the farmstead and artisan cheeses ($6, selected by Steve Jones of the Cheese Bar on SE Belmont) plated with a tart, vinegary winter fruit jam, brown bread, and marcona almonds drizzled with honey.

This was the kind of Happy Hour that made me want to go back and pay full price just to try the dinner menu—a very, very, very pleasant surprise.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Northwest Dining, French, Pearl District Dining

5 questions for: JON HART, an eater.shopper extraordinaire

The frequent eat.shop portland contributor gets candid about the culinary scene in the City of Roses and the City of Lights, and why he’s the guy to gab about it.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Dec 17, 2010 at 09:00AM 0 Comments

In the encyclopedia under “Wears a lot of hats”: Jon Hart. He writes for magazines like Casa da Abitare, a super cool Italian design rag. He co-owns a hip bag line called Chester Wallace, which is sold in a dozen or so stores around the U.S. and Japan. He’s in the midst of building a house which he helped design, and is now involved in the construction. He works at Evoe two days a week simply because he loves cooking. And he is a contributor to the très stylish eat.shop portland guide, as well as author of the paris version.

In honor of the hot-off-the press sixth edition of our city’s little green compendium of carefully-curated unique and “scrumdilicious” local businesses, we asked our Jon-of-all-trades to talk details about the edible half of his guide gig.

1) In your humble opinion, why are you uniquely qualified to dish about what’s worth eating in Portland?

It’s what I’ve always done. When I travel, I am always in pursuit of something delicious, and in that pursuit, I’ll eat anything. This often means I’m trying a lot of things that aren’t really great, but when I do find something amazing, I feel like I’ve won. I’ve now lived in Portland for about 18 years, and during that time I’ve worked in or been closely associated with the restaurant world. I’ve watched the city grow from a great farmer’s market and a few very good fine dining places, to what we have today. So, I’m a Portland booster.

2) Let’s say a person found out they were going to die in three days; what are the three local places where they MUST eat and what should they order?

I’d probably want to cook for them if they were on their death bed. But let’s assume they have some energy and aren’t dying of anything terrible—I’d take them to Grüner for the hamburger, and then go to Murata and have Mr. Murata keep feeding us miso grilled oysters, mackerel nigiri, and tiny, fried fresh water crabs until we were ready for dessert. We would end the night at Nostrana with the yogurt panna cotta and the butterscotch budino. And then we would go home and both want to die from over-indulgence.

3) In eat.shop portland you name eight carts that you love; what two carts would you add to make the list a perfect 10?

The first two that popped into my head are Tabor and FlavourSpot. By name alone, Tabor’s schnitzelwich would make anybody’s mouth smile and water. And Flavourspot almost seems to have invented a new food group with sandwiches made out of waffles.

4) You also write for eat.shop paris—in so doing have you noticed any culinary similarities between the two p-towns?

I’ve been traveling to Paris a lot over the past 15 years, and I’d say yes, and much more so recently. In the past, Paris restaurants have been focused on technique, which means sauces, richness, and stuff based on tradition. But in recent years, with places like Le Baratin, Racines, and Les Papilles, things have gotten much more casual and ingredient-focused and are often served in a wine bar atmosphere. This seems like Portland to me, in the sense that more interesting cooking is taking place in casual places. At Le Baratin I had the most delicious fried whole colinot fish with sauce gribiche (tartar sauce) for less than $20. It was light, simple, and delicious—a refreshing break from things baked under puff pastry and sitting in a pool of wine sauce or cream. It reminded me of something that might be served at Evoe or Navarre. In fact, we soon were serving pan-fried razor clams with sauce gribiche at Evoe.

5) What’s the last local place where you went out to eat, and what did you think of it?

It’s the dark rainy season so I want some comfort when I go out. I went to Dove Vivi this week and had the kale salad and a slice of Finocchiona pizza. That kale salad has inspired a lot of salads at my house. Raw kale chopped fine and tossed in lemon and olive oil and topped with a little riccota salata. It’s deceiving because it looks like a pile of tough, leathery greens that are going to be a drag to eat; but the lemon makes the leaves tender and delicious. I could eat it all winter long.

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Tags: Interview, book, author, five questions, French, local

A Sneakpeek at St. Jack’s Menu

Get a peek at what’s for dinner at the new SE Clinton St eatery from Aaron Barnett/ChefStable, open for regular dinner service December 27.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Dec 08, 2010 at 09:00AM 0 Comments

This just in—a snapshot of the preliminary dinner menu for Southeast’s St. Jack:

Petit Plats, featuring simple, low-priced nibbles like Local Oysters with mignonette for $2 each, and Cervelle de Canut (warm marinated goat cheese with toasted baguette) for $6.

Hors D’oeuvres, consisting of soups, salads, and light-bites, such as the Salade Lyonnaise (frisee, bacon lardons, poached runner duck egg & bacon fat croutons) for $8, the Fisherman’s Stew with scallops, poached oysters, salmon roe & leeks ($12), and Sweetbreads, served with cauliflower puree and bacon, leek & caper vinaigrette ($12).

Plats Principaux, presenting the likes of Fried Rabbit with celeriac remoulade, honey & lemon, Coq a la Biere (half a chicken braised in farmhouse ale, with pearl onions, wild mushrooms & bacon) for $20, and—praise the lord!—Le Hamburger, which comes with gruyere, St. Jack sauce & pommes frites ($10), but you can gussy it up with bacon, caramelized onions, boudin noir, or a different cheese from their list.

There’s also a selection of Charcuterie De Maison (duh—this is Portland), and the delectable Desserts we mentioned last Friday.

As noted in that previous post, the pâtisserie portion of chef Aaron Barnett and ChefStable’s Kurt Huffman’s Lyonnaise-influenced bouchon (with pastries by Alissa Rozos) opens for business Monday, December 13, at 7am. You can also sign-up online now for a series soft-opening preview dinners on December 20, 21, and 22.

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Tags: Southeast Dining, Food News, Restaurant Openings, French, Bakery

Southeast’s St. Jack To Open Soon

The new Aaron Barnett/ChefStable SE Clinton St eatery is opening in three phases, starting Monday, December 13.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Dec 03, 2010 at 12:00PM 0 Comments

Extra! Extra! Read all about it! In just over a week, the highly-anticipated new venture from chef Aaron Barnett and ChefStable’s Kurt Huffman — the Lyonnaise-influenced bouchon and pâtisserie combo, St. Jack — will be welcoming its first customers at 2039 SE Clinton St.

This is a grand opening in three acts.

ACT ONE: Monday, December, 13, the pâtisserie portion will begin serving coffee, pastries, and lunch items seven days a week, 7am-4pm. As EaterPDX reported, former Bluehour pastry chef Alissa Rozos will now be running St. Jack’s pasty department (think éclairs, croissants, cannelle, and madeleines), as well as sweetening the deal by producing tasty treats like apple tart tatin with fromage blanc ice cream and chocolate soufflé with Grand Marnier crème anglaise for the restaurant’s dessert menu.

“Alissa is super talented,” says Huffman. “We are really excited for her to have her own storefront.”

The lunch menu will consist of simple, classic French soups, charcuterie, and sandwiches served on the très français baguette from little t american baker.

ACT TWO: Go online at www.stjackpdx.com ASAP to reserve your spot for one of the restaurant’s soft-opening preview dinners on December 20, 21, and 22. A jaw-dropping deal, $60 gets you a prix fixe menu with wine and beer pairings and an open bar. You heard me right, and the ticket price includes gratuity.

ACT THREE: The restaurant opens for reals December 27, and will be dishing up delectable down-home French country dinners Monday through Saturday until 10pm. The transition from bakery to restaurant will begin at 4pm, with Happy Hour starting at 4:30pm. Online reservations will be available in a couple weeks.

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Tags: Southeast Dining, Food News, Restaurant Openings, French, Bakery

Country French cuisine in Southeast

Chef Aaron Barnett is opening his first restaurant, in partnership with ChefStable.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Oct 15, 2010 at 10:30AM 1 Comments

According to ChefStable’s Kurt Huffman, over the last year Barnett, 33 (pictured here), has worked tirelessly to raise the necessary $100,000 and make his restaurant a reality, finding his own investors while Huffman was busy with Whiskey Soda Lounge and Grüner. “That dedication demonstrates that this restaurant is exactly what he wants to do,” says Huffman, “And that passion will translate to the food.”

Aaron Barnett—former head chef at the deceased Olea as well as 23Hoyt until Bruce Carey decided to go gastro-pub—has just signed the lease for a restaurant of his very own at 2633 Southeast 21st, in the space that formerly housed Charlie’s at Clinton Corner. When the locale became available last week, Barnett’s business partner, Kurt Huffman of ChefStable—an innovative restaurant development company responsible for the likes of Foster Burger, Grüner, and Ping —swooped in, and now the new endeavor is scheduled to open in six to eight weeks.

The cuisine: Down-home French country food modeled after the true bouchons of Lyon, France. A far cry from Thomas Keller’s sky high-priced Bouchon chain, real bouchons (of which there are only about 20 that have been officially certified) offer simple, affordable, meat-heavy Lyonnaise cuisine in a simple setting with simple service. Barnett’s bistro will feature soul-soothing dishes like coq à la bière (like coq au vin but the chicken is braised in a farmhouse-style ale rather than wine) and the traditional steak frites, as well a heavy focus on charcuterie. All entrées will be sub-$20.

The wine: Expect eight to 10 local wines served in traditional Lyonnais “pots”—50cl wine bottles that contain nearly three glasses each. Not bad for a price range of $12 to $20 per pot.

The stats: With a French bakery and coffee shop on one side of the space, and a formal dinner area on the other side, the plan is to be open Monday through Saturday, 7 or 8 a.m. to 11 p.m., but chances are you’ll also be able to get a Sunday supper there real soon.

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Tags: Portland Chefs, Southeast Dining, Food News, French, Bakery

Slooooooooow Food in St. Johns

A peek inside Pitxi (pee-chee), a culinary anomaly on North Lombard.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Oct 13, 2010 at 10:30AM 1 Comments

The four servings of cheese on Pitxi’s cheese plate were paltry, but they were paired with intriguing condiments like a rich dark chocolate paste and mango marmalade. A slice of cold roasted squash, eggplant & pepper terrine tasted fresh, clean, and earthy.

Who: Pitxi Dining Room & Wine Bar

What: A menu inspired by the Northwest, France, and the Basque region.

When: Tues.-Sat., 5-10 p.m.; reservations requested.

Where: 5225 North Lombard Street; 503.360.3963

Why: 1) The mystery. Pitxi first appeared in Sandy, then closed and reopened on the outskirts of St. Johns. Reviews online are all over the place, ranging from adoration to acrimony. 2) The space. Big, airy, elegant industrial, with an open kitchen. 3) The creative menu. Curry squash dumplings were hearty little pillows of savory pumpkin pie spice, paired with three kinds of mushrooms, including the unbelievably odd “chicken of the woods”—essentially flavorless, it has the exact texture of overcooked chicken. Buttery and gamey, the fall lamb stew with Navarra beans came in a little pot with brussel sprouts and sunchokes on the side. At first it seemed strange that the veggies weren’t incorporated in the stew, but it quickly became apparent that their simple, tangy preparation actually presented a nice break from the intensely rich lamb. A bright, gently-dry bottle of Benaza Mencia Monterrei was enjoyable with the food and alone—a pleasant surprise, seeing as how at $25, it was the second cheapest wine on the menu.

Why Not: 1) The price. While the intriguing dishes on the Small Bites menu—think eggplant beignets and garlic shrimp pancake—range from $3-$5, the dinner menu is a tad too pricey for the location ($9 appetizers, $18 mains). 2) The service. Unfortunately, I chose to sup on a Tuesday. Apparently this night is typically “dead,” so there was only one waitress. Although knowledgeable and gracious as all get out, she simply couldn’t serve the five tables in a timely fashion—maybe because she was also helping out the two cooks. Our meal took two-plus hours.

Conclusion: Two waiters and less obsessing over the perfection of each plate would probably improve the service/timing exponentially. The food wasn’t mind-blowing, but I couldn’t stop eating and I was continuously curious to see what would show up next. I’d go back.

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Tags: Review, North Portland Dining, St. Johns, French