EAT BEAT

A Foodie Farewell

An Eat Beater says sayonara and shares a few things she’s learned.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on May 11, 2011 at 09:00AM 6 Comments

Me, 28 weeks pregnant and relishing every second of a Tonalli’s buttermilk bar.

Dearest Eat Beat Readers:

It is with a heavy heart and a rumbling belly that after 10 months of chronicling our fair city’s culinary scene, I must say goodbye. Although I’ve loved every interview I’ve conducted and forkful of food I’ve consumed in the name of “work,” it just so happens that in a few short months I will be finished cooking up something of my own: a baby. And as energetic as my wee girl appears to be (repeatedly pushing off my ribs and slamming into my hip bone, probably because of all the doughnuts…), sleep deprivation and 24-hour diaper changing isn’t exactly conducive to seeking out the latest and greatest gourmet superstar, happy hour, or cheap date. Luckily the very astute Allison Jones has stepped in, and, of course, there is always the incomparable Karen Brooks and a cadre of guest writers with tireless taste buds.

I grew up cooking and baking, love to eat, and spent numerous years working in restaurants while I became a writer, and Eat Beating has been a truly special joy of mine. So without further ado about this adieu, I will leave you with a few thoughts about things I’ve learned along the way.

Best of PDX

Want a sure-fire way to get Portland peeps riled up? Rank their food options. And if you really want to see cartoon steam coming out of their ears, make sure you’re ranking their sweet carbohydrates, such as chocolate chip cookies, biscuits, and—drum roll—doughnuts! My analysis of 10 area doughnut shops had more readers than any post that has ever appeared on Eat Beat. And the comments included downright patriotic outrage over the rings, bars, and holes I failed to name. Looking back I can say that Tonalli’s (2805 NE Alberta St) still reigns supreme when it comes to classic doughnuts—although I am personally obsessed with old-fashioneds, this story made me try their melt-in-your-mouth buttermilk bar and it’s my new favorite. I also crave the apple fritter at Coco Donut and want to try all the more unusual flavors at Sesame Donuts. I also went to Helen Bernhard after being chastised for failing to do so in my doughnut round-up, and, while tasty, I don’t think it’s as good as the three I just named. I look forward to your shock and awe.

Cheap Eats/Cheap Date

Pho, pho, pho, pho, pho. A steaming bowl of this flavor-packed noodle soup is probably the most food you will ever be able to get for the least cash. It is also my favorite-est thing to eat in the world, and a singular pleasure in a city where a broad range of quality ethnic cuisine is not the strong suit. In my opinion, the best to be found, both fleshy and veggie, is at Pho Gia (1944 NE Sandy).

First Impressions

Although a number of the places I sought out to write about where new to me, the all-new establishment that really stands out is the all-vegetarian Natural Selection. I wasn’t expecting it to be anywhere near as good as it was. The food has so much thought, heart, and attention to detail, and their chocolate pots de crème is truly sublime. Plus, the staff is knowledgeable and attentive. And they have real, heavy silverware. This is the kind of place that is making us feel more like a multi-faceted culinary city like San Francisco or New York, rather than just an adorable but narrow-minded comfort-food-and-entrails foodie town.

Five Questions

There is nothing that compares to getting an insider’s POV. Every single one of these interviews I did was a thrill. But if I would never be able to drink wine again unless I pick three that stand out, I’d have to say Ken Forkish, Paul Gerald, and Aubrey Lindley.

Happy Hour of the Week

Rather than any one happy hour that shines above all the others, what I was surprised to learn was just how many of these discount dining experiences there are. If the timing works for you, you can eat and drink like a king all over town pretty much every day of the week. But 23Hoyt is pretty special in this arena.

Vegetarian Viand

Despite being a lifelong vegetarian, I didn’t cover this topic that much. Partially because there wasn’t a whole lot to say. We may have a hippie-dippie mystique, but there just aren’t a lot of solid (i.e. not crappy), totally vegetarian restaurants in town, although Blossoming Lotus is a true joy (I have eaten their Southwestern Bowl with golden tofu three times in the last two weeks). It doesn’t bother me much because most local eateries do a damn fine job of providing tasty veggie options that aren’t just fettuccine alfredo (DOC, Foster Burger, Screen Door), but I do think it’s a sign that we need to broaden our horizons a tad. Castagna has brought molecular gastronomy to the table; now let’s give some love to our multitude of veg-heads.

The Scene

Local, seasonal, creative, casual, and youthful, plus Portland is a pretty cheap foodie city all-around. Many of us can afford to eat at even the city’s best restaurants (e.g. Le Pigeon, Toro Bravo, DOC, Nostrana, Pok Pok, Ken’s Artisan Pizza, Olympic Provisions, Lincoln, Paley’s Place), if perhaps not all the time. This has a lot to do with local eateries prizing impeccable quality and innovation over white tablecloths and sky-high prices. You can build a gorgeous space, but we’ll pass it over (to wit, the late Ten-01 and Fenouil). However, build a gorgeous meal in an environment where we can wear our faded jeans and fleece coats, and we’ll keep coming back. Portland may be dreary much of the time, the economy is tenuous, and the drivers are the worst on the planet, but I’ve drunk the culinary Kool-Aid and I am hooked for life.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Cheap Eats, five questions, Vegetarian Friendly, First Impressions, The Best, lists

5 questions for: writer, baker, and pizza pie maker, KEN FORKISH

The local pastry and pizza master (and now book author-to-be!) weighs on what to eat, where to go, and why eaters love living in Portland.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on May 04, 2011 at 09:00AM 1 Comments

Photo: Alan Weiner

Ken Forkish and an oven.

Photo Credit: Alan Weiner

Week after week, Portland peeps are willing to wait an hour for a pie at Ken’s Artisan Pizza. Day after day, their Ken’s Artisan Bakery baguettes are half eaten before they make it home. It’s hard to believe that it all began over a decade ago when proprietor Ken Forkish decided to abandon his career in high tech, sell his Jaguar, and build a bakery—his very first food job. In one year his bakery saw visits from Alice Waters, Jacques Pépin, and André Soltner. And now, as of last week, the bread head (he learned his baguette methods at the San Francisco Baking Institute, he says, and the secret is using the best flour and never taking shortcuts) has a book deal with Ten Speed Press—it will be a cookbook with stories, as well as lots of great photos by Alan Weiner, and should be out in time for the holiday season, 2012.

Can’t wait? We got Ken to fork over his thoughts on his fabulous food and our culinary scenery.

1) How has the bakery scene changed since you got here?

When I opened my bakery in 2001, the two artisan bakeries in town were Pearl and Grand Central. Rosie’s small bakery on SE Division wasn’t well supported and closed, and Black Bear had just closed. Now we have Tim Healea’s excellent Little T American Baker in SE, Sweetpea vegan bakery, Greg Mistell’s Fleur de Lis bakery in NE, Julie Richardson and Matt Kappler’s Baker & Spice in SW, Two Tarts in NW, Nuvrei in the Pearl, and others. Pix was only at the Farmers Market when I opened, but now we also have excellent chocolateries with Verdun, Sahagún, Cacao, and Alma Chocolate. Where else in this country would you find this variety of quality bakeries, pâtisseries, and chocolateries in a town our size? It’s vast change since I opened 10 years ago, when the Atkins and South Beach diets were vilifying all-things starch. Now we embrace all the good stuff! I’m still working out my own plans for what’s next, but I’m thinking of opening a new restaurant in a year or two.

2) Portland seems to be having a gourmet comfort food renaissance—pizza, fried chicken, burgers, etc. What’s your two cents about what’s going on with the local culinary scene?

I’m a very big fan. I travel a few times each year and always look forward to returning home to restaurants where having quality food doesn’t require an increase in the formality of the dining room. When I opened my bakery, the kitchen talent was all in fine dining; now the talent is also in more relaxed places serving high quality food that embraces our seasonal produce, in an atmosphere appealing to a broader range of people. Look at the busiest restaurants in town: Toro Bravo, Tasty n Sons, Pok Pok, and Laurelhurst Market food and definitely not white tablecloth. What we have here is an embrace of the casual, a Portland-specific idea of what a restaurant needs to look and act like, a growing population supporting our homegrown restaurants as a principal form of entertainment, and an economy that allows younger chefs to open and run their own restaurants. I think the infusion of youth in the ownership ranks was a necessary force in our town’s dining out evolution.

3) What’s your perfect pizza experience?

Tricky question! My perfect pie changes with my mood or the season. I prefer simple toppings of the highest quality: perfect cherry tomatoes in the summer, or, right now, our Finnochiona pizza made with Olympic Provisions salami—you can taste the quality of the meat and the cure, and we counterpoint the fennel seed in the salami with shaved fennel on the pie. As for a drink-and-pizza pairing, more often than not I’ll go to a Sangiovese such as a good Chianti or a Rosso di Montalcino from Siro Pacenti, but I’m also happy with a nice Pinot from Cameron, Chehalem, Grochau Cellars, Evesham Wood, or J. Christopher, or a Barbera from Piedmont. Nothing wrong with a cold Pilsner, either, or a good rosé. Afterward, give me ice cream or my pizzeria’s lambrusco-rhubarb sorbetto and a cookie, please. If I’m feeling groovy, maybe a shot of grappa at the end.

4) How did you learn to make your ridiculously addictive canelés?

I didn’t learn canelés from anyone, but 15 years ago I had a French girlfriend and she introduced me to canelés at Poujauran’s boulangerie in Paris. They tasted of honey, almonds, and cake, with a perfectly crispy outside, and I was immediately intrigued. I searched them out at other Paris shops and became acquainted with the variety of styles, from lightly baked and custardy in the middle (not my thing) to a little more cakey in the middle and crisp on the outside. For a small fortune, I purchased a bunch of the copper molds at E. Dehillerin in Paris and went to work with a couple different recipes until I found the texture and flavor I like. Key is lining the inside of the molds with melted beeswax before pouring in the batter. Keep your eyes open for the next issue of The Art of Eating, in which Molly Wizenberg wrote a feature on canelés. She interviewed me along with Pierre Herme (!). Okay, he’s the king of pastry and I’m this little guy in PDX, but I got a kick out of being a source for the same article.

5) Where are you loving eating right now?

I have many favorite restaurants, from long-termers like Paley’s Place, Higgins, and Park Kitchen, to the usual suspects like Pok Pok, Toro Bravo, Grüner, Le Pigeon, and Little Bird. Lincoln, Ned Ludd, Nostrana, and Biwa are also high on my go-to list. Of the newer openings, I’m particularly fond of June, and Kin on NW 14th wins my “best restaurant that’s least appreciated” nod—I’m currently craving Kevin’s pork buns. Then there are two restaurants that get no press but have loyal followings and I love them: Ciao Vito and Bastas both have excellent Italian food and wine lists. When I eat out, the wine list is something I enjoy in addition to the scene, the food, and the décor. Just saying.

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Tags: Books, Interview, five questions, Pizza, Bakery

5 Questions for: Graped Crusader, STAR BLACK

Clyde Common and Olympic Provisions’ wine director talks natural wines, modern pairings, and the upcoming wine revolution.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Apr 11, 2011 at 01:40PM 4 Comments

Star Black is on a mission. As the wine director at some of Portland’s hottest restaurants, she’s hoping to translate the city’s obsessions with artisan foods, small distilleries, micro-brews and locally-roasted coffee into a love of well-crafted wine – and she wants you to join her. The stylish redhead is behind the well-curated wine list at Clyde Common, and she’s played an essential role in the redefinition and expansion of Nate Tilden’s Olympic Provisions empire. With the opening of the new Olympic Provisions Northwest in April, Black will head the wine selection of both charcuterie outposts and Clyde Common.

Black’s passion for vino is clearly on display as she carefully unpacks tall stacks of bottles in front of the “wine wall” at Olympic Provisions’ industrial Southeast headquarters. Seeing her hold up each bottle to the light like a new baby, it’s easy to imagine her leading the next generation of wine lovers in what’s quickly becoming Sip City, USA.

Here, Black gives us a taste of her wine philosophy and what’s next in her plans to take over the world, one glass at a time.

1) First things first – How did you get started with wine?

I came into wine through food. I went to culinary school and was a cook for many years in restaurants in New York, and I would sit in on wine meetings with the front of the house staff and pester the sommelier, asking tons of questions. I was just so amazed one grape could become so many different things, I just realized I loved wine and needed to know more. I was also getting burnt out on cooking, so I quit my job in a Brooklyn restaurant and took a long walk home instead of riding the subway. I walked past a wine shop, stopped to talk to the proprietor, and bought a bottle of wine. I came back a few days later with a resume.

2) Given your experience with both food and wine, how do you think the two are related?

There’s been a revolution in wine over the past 5-10 years of “natural” winemaking, biodynamic wines, old-school indigenous varietals, un-messed-with fermentations and natural yeasts with minimal manipulation, which is a total parallel to what’s happening in the food world right now. That’s really what’s going to draw in the next generation of wine lovers. I see people getting up early to go to the Portland Farmers’ Market on a Saturday morning, these cool, young people toting canvas bags full of beautiful produce, meats, and cheeses. Wine is just an extension of that. It’s an agricultural product that should attract people who care about what they put in their mouth.

3) Are there differences between how you approach the wine selections at Clyde Common and Olympic Provisions?

At the core, both restaurants have the same underlying philosophy of offering interesting producers, wines from Europe and Oregon, and natural winemaking. However, Clyde is a more traditional restaurant – in that there is a structured menu, with entrees, appetizers, and dessert – that calls for more traditional pairings, whereas Olympic Provisions is first and foremost a charcuterie facility. Right now I’m expanding Olympic Provisions’ wine list, and offering all of our wines at 25% off the menu’s list price, which I really hope will get people tasting as much wine as possible. There’s a whole world of pairing wine with these fantastic cured meats, which is so much fun.

4) Speaking of which, OP chef Alex Yoder recently described the perfect Olympic Provisions meal and, as far as wine goes, said, “I don’t worry too much about pairing. My advice is to drink what you like.” What’s your take on wine pairings?

I think wine pairing is still completely relevant. Beautiful food deserves beautiful wine, and the two are great dance partners. Wine can definitely enhance the flavor of food, but the old rules of ‘white with fish, red with meat’ are so out the window and everyone knows it. I’ve actually been really excited about Sherry pairings, and we’re doing a Sherry flight [at Olympic Provisions] that is really taking off. Wine pairing shouldn’t be intimidating. At home, I drink a lot of rosé and white wine. I don’t drink much red because my palate gets fatigued from all the stronger wines at work, and I usually just want something clean and refreshing.

5) Portland is head over heels for coffee, beer, and spirits – how do you tap into that when you’re creating a wine list or helping someone select a bottle?

Wine has a reputation for being intimidating and exclusively for the wealthy, and that’s too bad, because it’s none of those things. It’s a rotted grape. It’s so humble, but so incredible. My ultimate goal is to normalize wine and make it a really cool interesting thing, like those varieties of coffee beans or different kinds of hops. I’m always inviting guests at the restaurants to taste a few of the different wines I have open, try to get them to hone in on something that is just really interesting to them. Wine is awesome, and so personal. You just need to find your own style.

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Tags: Southwest Dining, Southeast Dining, Wine, Interview, five questions

5 questions for: hot, young talent ALEX YODER

Olympic Provisions’ executive chef chats about cookbooks, trends, and choice places to eat.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Mar 21, 2011 at 11:00AM 0 Comments

Alex Yoder was literally born to cook in Portland. Raised in a Northeast neighborhood by a family of cooks, he found his calling while working at Ashland’s venerable Chateaulin during college, but then returned to his hometown where he worked his way up from line cook to Café Castagna sous chef under then-executive chef Kevin Gibson, followed by a similar path at Clyde Common. In December, he followed in the footsteps of his former CC boss, Jason Barwikowski, taking the helm at Olympic Provisions.

Plopping down in a place that’s already notable—and replacing a chef with a known and respected reputation—may seem a little daunting. But so far this top spot transition has been pretty seamless, an all the more impressive feat because it comes at a time when the Eastside eatery is opening a new outpost (Olympic Provisions Northwest, scheduled for early-to-mid-April), launching an online store, and expanding their fresh and cured flesh line to include the likes of bacon, kielbasas, coppa, pancetta, and more.

Here, Yoder gives us a little insight into his own culinary style and makes us hungry.

1) We’re gonna start with a two-parter: A. In what ways are you making your mark on the Olympic Provisions menu? And, B. Can you give us an example of a perfect OP meal from start to finish?

The food I’m cooking is all about focus and big flavors, with just one or two highly flavorful components to each dish. An example would be our whole-roasted sardines with a mixed olive tapenade.

As for the perfect Olympic Provisions meal, it must start with a charcuterie plate. After that I would enjoy a toasted farro salad with mint and feta cheese, followed by squid sautéed with chorizo and corona beans—the squid is fresh and stays very tender… it’s really nice right now. As for what to drink with your meal, when I’m sampling a lot of different flavors, I don’t worry too much about pairing. My advice is to drink what you like. And for me, right now, that would be Barbera D’Alba.

2) Beginning in April, you’re going to start doing a special monthly menu that focuses on a particular region—can you give us a few highlights from the premiere performance?

The first region I’m going to feature in the series is Murcia in Southeastern Spain. This region is recognized throughout Europe for its pristine fruits, vegetables, and seafood. I am definitely going to make a cold shrimp and mussel salad with capers and Spanish olive oil. But the real highlight will be a dish called Arroz con Costra, which translates to “Rice with a Crust.” It’s a too-good-to-be-true sounding combination of rice, blood sausage, white sausage, and chicken, baked underneath a golden dome of fluffy whipped eggs.

3) We went ahead and labeled you a hot, young talent, thus we’d love to know what’s driving your culinary thinking right now?

The big thing exciting me right now is preserving. Oregon has amazing bounty for much of the year but it can get pretty lean in the winter. (By April I don’t even want to look at a sunchoke!) So, the challenge is to translate that bounty into great cooking and eating year-round. This goes beyond making pickles and jam. For examples, it means preserving peppers and tomatoes to use as ingredients all year as well. Preserving will be a major part of what the Olympic Provisions kitchen will be up to this spring and summer.

4) We hear you’re a fan of cookbooks—which ones are your current favorites?

I will always love the Zuni Café Cookbook by Judy Rogers because of her obsessive attention to detail. She trains her young cooks to taste stock every hour so as to track how its flavor evolves. Genius. I also adore Vegetarian Cooking For Everyone by Deborah Madison. Her vegetarian dishes honor tradition and never lack flavor, and she tells you how to cook a cardoon! Right now I am re-reading John Thorne’s Pot On The Fire—it’s not a cookbook, but it does include excellent recipes. Thorne is the most thoughtful food writer of all time as far as I’m concerned.

5) So, you grew up here in Portland—where did you love eating as a youngster, and where do you dine now when you actually have the time?

I grew up going to Nicholas, Pambiche, and Escape from New York Pizza, and when the grandparents visited, they would take me to the Ringside. I still go to all those places. These days, though, my favorite things to eat for lunch are duck soup at Good Taste Noodle House, and anything Kevin is cooking at Evoe. My favorite things for dinner are the whole steamed bass at Ocean City Seafood Restaurant, and mussels and fries at Laurelhurst Market. I grew up in Laurelhurst so perhaps I’m biased, but I think they’re cooking very well over there.

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Tags: Southeast Dining, Interview, five questions, Northwest Portland Dining, charcuterie

5 questions for: many wonders woman, JENN LOUIS

The cook, caterer & new tavern creator makes us feel hungry, thirsty, and unintentionally guilty about how little we do.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Mar 07, 2011 at 10:30AM 3 Comments

Sunshine Tavern proprietors, David Welch and Jenn Louis

Photo Credit: Alexis Turk, Jasmine Photography

Jenn Louis is a serious player. By that I mean that not only is she executive chef and co-owner (with her husband, David Welch) of NoPo restaurant Lincoln and catering company Culinary Artistry, the two-time James Beard “Best Chef: Northwest” semifinalist (this year, and last year) will soon be stretching the duo’s dominion into Southeast. According to Louis, their new drink-and-eatery, Sunshine Tavern, is slated to open at 3103 SE Division St “April 19, unless…” The cuisine concept is “basic” tavern food, such as pizza, burgers, fried chicken, fries, wings, etc., albeit it with the gourmet flavor flourishes we comfort-loving and poor but picky Portlanders have all come to expect.

Here, just as we face another onslaught of rain, Louis gives us a glimpse of Sunshine.

1) So, what’s the big idea behind Sunshine?

We care about food and service and environment. Our goal was to create a place to relax, a place that is not inventive, nor challenging. A place that is not too serious… somewhere between a dive bar, a diner, and a fine dining bar. We wanted the great comforts of something low-key, but with the quality ingredients Portlanders love. As for the name, well, everyone loves sunshine, right? But, the inspirational “Sunshine” was my brother’s childhood pet, a green and yellow parakeet.

2) Can you give us a sneak-peek at a few of Sunshine’s twists on “tavern” fare?

The fried chicken has a crunchy, ripple-y dredge on it that David calls the “fozzie dredge” because he thinks it looks like Fozzie Bear’s fur. It will come with a yeasted semolina waffle, butter, and local honey. Options on the burgers will include a big slab of roasted tesa (cured pork belly) or chicken liver mousse—pair that with a glass of sparkling! Our fries will be house-made, with the option of getting them as pork-sausage gravy cheese fries, and our wings will come with honey-mustard sauce. And the monte cristo is delicious: ham, turkey, and Swiss on brioche, fried, with marionberry jam and a fried egg. We’ll also have an in-house soft-serve ice cream machine—Chad Draizin of Fifty Licks is helping with the recipe.

3) Lincoln is known for its cocktails—what’s on tap booze-wise at Sunshine?

It’s all David’s doing. We’ll have cocktails, wine, eight taps, and a good bottle list, including 22 varieties of 22 oz bottles, such as Long Brewing IPA, Rogue ales, and Heater Allen ales. And, of course, a good selection of bourbon—that will keep me happy. Sunshine will also sport a slushie-style margarita machine.

4) How’s about the décor/vibe you’re shootin’ for?

Comfortable, relaxed, and modern. This project has been really fun—lots of handmade metal-work, the bar-top is made from reclaimed bowling alley lanes, and dismantled barn wood will be installed in several areas around the dining room. Plus, we’re installing a 14-foot shuffleboard table and video games: Donkey Kong, Ms. Pac Man, and Galaga (my favorite).

5) Where else in town do you like to go if you actually have a moment to breathe?

David and I tend to lay low; we try to spend as much time with our three kitties as we can during our time off. But we do eat a lot of dumpling soup at Chen’s Good Taste (18 NW 4th Ave) in Chinatown and drink a lot of Ristretto Roaster’s coffee. And I love the bar at little bird!

Sunshine Tavern’s Hours-to-be: Sun-Thurs, 5-10pm; Fri & Sat 5-11pm

Prices: $5-$12 starters & $9-$15 sandwiches/entrées

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Tags: Southeast Dining, Southeast, five questions, Comfort Food

5 questions for: master pasta maker, ADAM BERGER

The proprietor of Northeast’s Tabla Bistro talks positivity, pasta, and tasty places other peeps are eating.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Feb 16, 2011 at 08:45AM 1 Comments

A month and a half after the tumultuous Ten 01 succumbed to a combo of the economy, size, and the somewhat fair weather Portland dining set, its former proprietor, Adam Berger, 41, has refocused all his energy on his original Portland eatery across the river, Tabla (200 NE 28th Ave). Unlike its bigger, splashier, doomed to a perpetual “rocky start” or “rollercoaster” reputation younger brother, Tabla has remained neighborhood-y and relatively consistent. Dishing up Mediterranean fare from regions like Spain, France, Northern Africa, and Italy, Tabla was one of the first restaurants in Portland to peddle tapas and employs old Italian techniques for handcrafting fresh pasta that is presented with modern twists.

Here, Berger chats with us about moving on, making pasta, and where he might eat if he didn’t have three little macaroni of his own at home.

1) What’s your post-Ten 01 takeaway about the current state of Portland’s restaurant scene?

People in Portland, like everywhere, love novelty and the excitement of going to the “new” place. Restaurants definitely have a life span. Some live short and fast, while others become multigenerational. Both contribute to the variety of Portland’s exceptional dining scene. I am very optimistic about what’s going on here.

2) What’s got you excited these days?

I’m excited about being at Tabla every day and being able to focus on one restaurant. I know chef Anthony [Cafiero] will be cooking some exciting new dishes when he gets back from Spain, where he has visited lots of tapas bars and some very high-end restaurants in Madrid, Barcelona, and San Sebastian. I’m also planning on doing a series of dinners based on Anthony’s trip, which should be phenomenal, and we are going to be reaching out to our favorite local winemakers for some fun events.

3) What should we be eating at Tabla today?

We make five or six different pastas fresh everyday and they are all outstanding. The Tabla Ravioli, for example, is still one of my favorite dishes. It’s one giant ravioli filled with ricotta, chard, and an egg yolk, simmered for two minutes so that the pasta is perfectly cooked and the yolk is runny, and then garnished with butter, cheese, and poppy seeds—awesome! Another favorite pasta dish recently has been a simple pork sugo. Anthony brought in his pressure cooker and all the cooks fell in love with it. We make a wonderfully simple sugo with pork shoulder, white wine, tomato, garlic, onion, and prosciutto, pressure cook it for 45 minutes, and then toss it with fresh pappardelle and some grated parmigiano reggiano. Amazing!

4) I hear you took some staff over to Tabla from Ten 01—in addition to crave-worthy pastry chef Jeff McCarthy, can we get some names?

I took Kara and Greg from the Ten 01 bar when two of my Tabla servers moved on. Lia Termini is doing a really great job as my bar manager at Tabla and I knew that Kara and Greg would both be a good fit—our cocktail program is really one of the best-kept secrets in Portland. But I wish I could have taken my whole Ten 01 staff over. They were all very good.

5) What are some other restaurants around town that you are loving right now?

Besides working nights, I have three small children at home, so we don’t go out all that often. I eat vicariously through my staff. They’ve enjoyed St. Jack and Little Bird and always go to Meat Cheese Bread and Biwa.

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Tags: Northeast Dining, Interview, five questions, tapas, Mediterranean Cuisine

5 questions for: NE Portland pioneer, Sarah Pliner

As NE Alberta’s Aviary takes flight, one of the three chefs talks cuisine and collaboration.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Feb 02, 2011 at 09:00AM 1 Comments

Wine director Leah Moorhead and co-chefs Katherine Whitehead, Jasper Shen, and Sarah Pliner.

Photo by Farhard J. Parsa.

Aviary, a new small-plates restaurant with a we-are-the-world menu and a trio of New York’s finest dining-trained chefs, opened for business yesterday at 1733 NE Alberta St.

I have eagerly been anticipating this eatery ever since I received the letter notifying me about their application for a liquor license a few months back—I live about a 30 second walk away from their front door. The Alberta area has its fair share of coffee shops, bars, and quirky boutiques, but it hasn’t exactly been a destination for classy dining. Aviary, with its three co-owner/chefs (Sarah Pliner, Jasper Shen, and Katherine Whitehead) is seeking to change that, while also celebrating the neighborhood’s communal spirit and strong sense of creative expression—the space features reclaimed wood crafted into everything from pantry shelving to banquettes, lighting from Rejuvenation, and, of course, local art.

A very-busy chef Pliner was kind enough to give us a preview of Alberta’s latest nest for nibbles.

1) Why the name Aviary?

It started with a mah jong tile, the smallest bamboo, which has a little bird on it. We thought it was cute but curious, because there doesn’t seem to be a reason it should be a bird. Then we were thinking about what we all want to do long-term, and Kat had been doing some freelance dessert work under the name katbird, so we thought that someday there might be other “birds”—a bake shop, a bar, etc. When we got our LLC, we called it Aviary, and while we were trying to find a real name, that place-holder kind of grew on us. I also felt like it had some relevance to what we’re trying to do, both with the food and the feel of the restaurant—that it should be a home to many different kinds of birds.

2) Can you give us a snapshot of what you’re serving?

The menu features modern French technique, but using ingredients and ideas from around the globe. It’s small plates so people can share and try many different things. Three dishes not to miss include: the dungeness crab dressed with a lemon emulsion, brioche croutons, and a thin slice of winter melon, and then topped with mentaiko (spiced cod roe) and kinome, the leaf of the szechuan peppercorn plant, which is citrusy and floral tasting; ox tail croquettes made from ox tail braised with sweet spices, then breaded and deep fried, and served with tomato jam flavored with ginger, lemongrass, cinnamon, and star anise; and brioche-crusted halibut with sea urchin and shiso rolled inside, sesame seed spinach, and a cucumber shiso sauce.

We also have some house cocktails made with local spirits and seasonal infusions, and a small, focused wine list with most of the mainly French and local wines available by the glass or bottle, and we are working on making our own sodas.

3) Three chefs, eh? How exactly does that work?

We argue about all the front-of-the-house decisions, such as chairs, tables, and flatware, until we get sick of arguing and someone gives in. In the kitchen, for the most part, Jasper and I collaborate on the savory, and Kat and I work on the pastry together, but there’s nothing that goes on the menu that we don’t all agree on. None of the three of us can see the point in giving someone a title that would allow them to ignore useful input—even if we named ourselves chef, pastry chef, and sous chef, that’s not how it would work.

4) Why Alberta and what do you think you can add to the neighborhood?

It’s a fun, eclectic neighborhood—there are always people out and there’s always something going on. I think we bring a different style of food from anything that’s on Alberta right now, maybe a little more refined, while keeping the front-of-the-house experience relaxed and casual.

5) What other restaurants in town are currently rocking your world?

I enjoyed Biwa the vegetable dishes. I think the attention to detail there was exceptional, and I really like izakayas and trying lots of different things. Also, Olympic Provisions, because they do their own charcuterie, which is really brave, and they do it amazingly well. I don’t get out much right now, so when I do, it’s nice for it to be a bit of an adventure.

Hours: Mon-Thurs, 5-10pm; Fri & Sat, 5-11pm

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Tags: Restaurant Openings, Wine, Northeast Dining, five questions, French, small plates

5 questions for: crackerjack chocolatier, AUBREY LINDLEY

The co-owner of downtown’s Cacao Drink Chocolate shops chats about trends and sweet treats.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Jan 28, 2011 at 09:00AM 0 Comments

With two downtown locations (414 SW 13th Ave and 712 SW Salmon St, tucked in a corner of the Heathman), Cacao Drink Chocolate is a sea foam green and milky brown fantasyland for choco-files. Just plain pretty to look at, these stores offer an extensive range of artistically-arranged premium solid chocolate bars from around the world, select handmade delectables, and their own wildly-popular drinking and hot chocolates. Co-owners Jesse Manis and Aubrey Lindley set the thermostat at 67 degrees to preserve the goods, and yet the shops always manage to feel warm and welcoming.

As a choco-fiend myself, the way that Lindley answers the following cacao questions is enough to heat my blood.

1) What are some chocolate trends you foresee for 2011?

We are continuing to see a lot of interest in bean-to-bar manufacturers, including people experimenting at home with raw or roasted cacao beans and using home devices such as an oven, a Champion juicer, and a rock tumbler. It’s similar to roasting your own coffee beans, but with a ton more work. Also, two years ago no chocolate maker was willing to add anything to their chocolate. But now they realize that adding something like salt, caramel, spice, bacon, or peanut butter can actually enhance their chocolate’s flavors and broaden their potential audience. Yet another continuing trend is nutraceutical-marketed chocolate—categories like raw or products with alternative sweeteners or added nutritional supplements.

2) If someone was only in town for a day, what three things must they order from you?

Our store is founded on the principle that we have something for most people, but very little is for everyone. It would depend on where the customer is from and what they’re interested in. If someone wanted to learn about chocolate, for example, then I would suggest a mini tasting kit from Pralus, New Taste of Chocolate by Maricel Presilla, and a Claudio Corallo Soft bar. Or if they simply wanted some delicious things, then maybe Béquet Celtic Sea Salt Caramel, Pralus Barre Infernalle, and Cacao Spicy Drinking Chocolate.

3) You opened for business in 2006—what’s next for Cacao?

Enhancing the offerings in the café, along with finally producing packaged drinking chocolate mixes—these will be available before the end of this year. We will also continue to do more public events, hosting chocolate makers and chocolatiers for tastings and presentations.

4) What other Portland chocolatiers, candy stores, or even restaurants help inspire you and keep you creative?

We work with many talented, local chocolatiers who inspire us in their own way, such as Elizabeth Montes at Sahagun, David Briggs at Xocolatl de David, Sebastian Cisneros at Cocanú, and John Depaula at Depaula Confections. We’re also inspired by Evoe, Cheese Bar, Olympic Provisions, Kir, Por Qué No, Biwa, Nong’s Khao Man Gai, little t american baker, and the list goes on and on and on.

5) In your expert opinion, what is the most perfect chocolate experience on earth?

For me, chocolate is like life—I can’t imagine one best experience. I want continued access to an ever-evolving selection of the best so that I can have that amazing “wow” moment again and again. For example, last weekend Art Pollard from Amano handed me a piece of chocolate that he is working on that was a brilliant explosion of tart, concentrated red fruit with a little bit of walnut or leather or tobacco underneath. I had been drinking gin and tonics earlier so my palate was not what it might have been…

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Tags: Interview, five questions, Downtown Dining, Chocolate

5 questions for: new fangled-foodie MATT LIGHTNER

Castagna’s culinary lightning bolt briefly talks trends and tantalizing tidbits.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Dec 31, 2010 at 12:00PM 0 Comments

Call him our gastronomic Harry Potter…David Blaine…Pablo Picasso. Whether they deem him a wizard, magician, or artist in the kitchen, the local and national culinary critics can’t seem to stop praising Matt Lightner, 30, executive chef at Castagna since October 2009.

A few of his accolades in 14 short months? Named one of Food & Wine Magazine’s 2010 Best New Chefs in America. Nominated for a 2010 Rising Star chef award by the James Beard Foundation. Chosen as one of 10 to Watch in 2010 by Restaurant Hospitality Magazine. Catagna received the Oregonian’s 2010 Restaurant of the Year award, making it one of only two restaurants in Portland to have been honored with the title twice. And, of course, it was one of Portland Monthly’s Top Restaurants of the Year in the 2010 Restaurant Guide.

A graduate of the Western Culinary Institute a.k.a. Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Portland and trained in the field by the likes of Andoni Aduriz at Mugaritz (a Michelin two-star restaurant in San Sebastian, Spain) and Philippe Boulot at the Heathman Restaurant & Bar here in Portland, Lightner has made his own mark by using both traditional (e.g. grilling, brining, smoking) and modern (e.g. sous vide, painting, powdering) cooking techniques to play with local, often wild ingredients in entirely new ways. The result is innovative dishes that surprise and educate diners by elevating true flavors and invoking a visual connection to the fertile Northwest.

New Year’s Eve is essentially the food scene Super Bowl, but here the young chef takes a brief break to answer a few questions for us about what’s cooking—past, present, and future.

1) What one item on your menu right now would you say best represents your philosophy of cooking perfected on a plate?

A dish of lightly-cured scallops dressed with a milk made from parsley root, an ice made from the juice of unripe pears, and dandelion greens. It allows us to use very mainstream ingredients in a new fashion, taking a time of year that’s generally rich and heavy and, instead, making it refreshing.

2) What’s a food trend you predict for 2011?

Chefs’ using fresh juice, and herbs appearing as an ingredient, not just a garnish—essentially, lowering the calories while upping the flavor.

3) What’s a 2010 food trend you’d like to see disappeared?

Putting everything on the plate. I know there’s a lot of great product out there, but practicing a bit of restraint can actually highlight items even more.

4) What other menus do you like to scope out here in Portland?

Hard to say… There seems to be something interesting going on every week in our food scene, from Gabe opening up little bird, to FIN’s unique style, to the super local Ned Ludd and Grain & Gristle.

5) Here we are in the dead of winter—what are some of the techniques you plan to play with as we launch into the new year?

This time of year we are inspired by the hunting season so we look back in time at some pretty old traditions such as curing, drying, and making sausage—but doing these things in our style, and very, very carefully.

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Tags: Southeast Dining, Interview, five questions, local

5 questions for: JON HART, an eater.shopper extraordinaire

The frequent eat.shop portland contributor gets candid about the culinary scene in the City of Roses and the City of Lights, and why he’s the guy to gab about it.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Dec 17, 2010 at 09:00AM 0 Comments

In the encyclopedia under “Wears a lot of hats”: Jon Hart. He writes for magazines like Casa da Abitare, a super cool Italian design rag. He co-owns a hip bag line called Chester Wallace, which is sold in a dozen or so stores around the U.S. and Japan. He’s in the midst of building a house which he helped design, and is now involved in the construction. He works at Evoe two days a week simply because he loves cooking. And he is a contributor to the très stylish eat.shop portland guide, as well as author of the paris version.

In honor of the hot-off-the press sixth edition of our city’s little green compendium of carefully-curated unique and “scrumdilicious” local businesses, we asked our Jon-of-all-trades to talk details about the edible half of his guide gig.

1) In your humble opinion, why are you uniquely qualified to dish about what’s worth eating in Portland?

It’s what I’ve always done. When I travel, I am always in pursuit of something delicious, and in that pursuit, I’ll eat anything. This often means I’m trying a lot of things that aren’t really great, but when I do find something amazing, I feel like I’ve won. I’ve now lived in Portland for about 18 years, and during that time I’ve worked in or been closely associated with the restaurant world. I’ve watched the city grow from a great farmer’s market and a few very good fine dining places, to what we have today. So, I’m a Portland booster.

2) Let’s say a person found out they were going to die in three days; what are the three local places where they MUST eat and what should they order?

I’d probably want to cook for them if they were on their death bed. But let’s assume they have some energy and aren’t dying of anything terrible—I’d take them to Grüner for the hamburger, and then go to Murata and have Mr. Murata keep feeding us miso grilled oysters, mackerel nigiri, and tiny, fried fresh water crabs until we were ready for dessert. We would end the night at Nostrana with the yogurt panna cotta and the butterscotch budino. And then we would go home and both want to die from over-indulgence.

3) In eat.shop portland you name eight carts that you love; what two carts would you add to make the list a perfect 10?

The first two that popped into my head are Tabor and FlavourSpot. By name alone, Tabor’s schnitzelwich would make anybody’s mouth smile and water. And Flavourspot almost seems to have invented a new food group with sandwiches made out of waffles.

4) You also write for eat.shop paris—in so doing have you noticed any culinary similarities between the two p-towns?

I’ve been traveling to Paris a lot over the past 15 years, and I’d say yes, and much more so recently. In the past, Paris restaurants have been focused on technique, which means sauces, richness, and stuff based on tradition. But in recent years, with places like Le Baratin, Racines, and Les Papilles, things have gotten much more casual and ingredient-focused and are often served in a wine bar atmosphere. This seems like Portland to me, in the sense that more interesting cooking is taking place in casual places. At Le Baratin I had the most delicious fried whole colinot fish with sauce gribiche (tartar sauce) for less than $20. It was light, simple, and delicious—a refreshing break from things baked under puff pastry and sitting in a pool of wine sauce or cream. It reminded me of something that might be served at Evoe or Navarre. In fact, we soon were serving pan-fried razor clams with sauce gribiche at Evoe.

5) What’s the last local place where you went out to eat, and what did you think of it?

It’s the dark rainy season so I want some comfort when I go out. I went to Dove Vivi this week and had the kale salad and a slice of Finocchiona pizza. That kale salad has inspired a lot of salads at my house. Raw kale chopped fine and tossed in lemon and olive oil and topped with a little riccota salata. It’s deceiving because it looks like a pile of tough, leathery greens that are going to be a drag to eat; but the lemon makes the leaves tender and delicious. I could eat it all winter long.

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Tags: Interview, book, author, five questions, French, local

5 questions for: PAUL GERALD, a morning meal maestro

The author and breakfast buff banters about the second edition of his book, Breakfast in Bridgetown, and gives insider tips on where and what to eat now.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Dec 06, 2010 at 10:00AM 0 Comments

Meet the author at his Breakfast Book Launch Party, 5:30-8pm, Tuesday, December 14, at Cafe Nell. A short program at 6:30pm will feature comments from Gerald and contributors Nick Zukin (Kenny & Zuke’s; ExtraMSG.com) and Brett Burmeister (FoodCartsPortland.com). The “breakfast-for-dinner” menu will include tasty treats like house-made pork sausages, shrimp and grits, and silver dollar pumpkin pancakes. Signed breakfast books are $16 each, or two for $30. $2 from every sale will be donated to the Oregon Food Bank.

Are you cuckoo for Coco Puffs? Or maybe gaga for gravy? Psycho for scrambles? A freak for French toast? Mad as a hatter for maple syrup and pancakes?

Lucky for you, Portland author, freelance writer, and self-publishing consultant Paul Gerald has just published a second serving of his popular book, Breakfast in Bridgetown. The new edition includes over 120 Portland-area morning meal reviews, a new chapter on ethnic breakfasts written by Kenny & Zuke’s co-owner Nick Zukin, and new sections on food carts and out-of-town hot spots. Gerald is not a proper restaurant critic, he proclaims. Instead, he aims to tell an engaging story about each breakfast joint, including the vibe and who eats there, as well as what the food is like, wait times, vegetarian options, and, of course, what kind of coffee they serve.

Here, Gerald is kind enough to dish about our fair city’s favorite meal and the morning dining destinations that are truly drool-worthy.

1) Why do you think Portland is so bonkers for breakfast?

Because we’re a town of slackers? Seriously, I think we’re a very social town, filled with people who moved here to make a fresh start, try their own thing, and dig the lifestyle. All of that means we’re a social lot with time on our hands, and the restaurant scene is nuts, as we all know. And, finally, restaurants make more money per person on breakfast than any other meal, so it’s in their best interest to serve it.

2) Let’s say a person just found out they were going to die in three days; what are the three places they MUST go for breakfast and what should they order? Oh, and one of them has to be a cart.

Your appetizer is the Monte Cristo Sandwich at The Big Egg cart on N Mississippi St: an egg any style, grilled black forest ham, and gorgonzola, drizzled with a pure maple glaze and stacked between two pieces of vanilla cardamom brioche French toast, and dusted with powdered sugar. (Note: The Big Egg is taking a break until early February, but they are worth the wait.) Your main course is the oyster hash at the Bijou Café downtown. And for dessert, go to Jam on Hawthorne and get the lemon-ricotta pancakes.

3) What are a few of Nick Zukin’s top ethnic breakfast joint picks?

Among Mexican food options, one of his favorites (and mine) is Autentica, because of their fresh, authentic cuisine, as well as the smug joy of watching the suckers in line for Cup & Saucer Café across the street. Otherwise, he says to go west, like to Taqueria Hermanos Ochoa’s in Hillsboro (get the huevos con chorizo) or to Chavita’s in Beaverton, where he recommends champurrado: a corn gruel filled with chocolate, and “better than it sounds.” Then there’s Asian, and he says the best dim sum in town can be found at Ocean City Seafood on SE 82nd. As to what to order there, you’ll have to read for yourself.

4) Are there any new breakfast places on your hot list that you didn’t include in your book?

There’s a new place called City State Diner on NE 28th, but I didn’t think much of it. I read a review that said it wasn’t flashy or cutting-edge, and I thought, “Hmm, that’s what I usually say when I don’t think a place is very good.” I just want John Gorham to open another one. He gave us Simpatica and Tasty n Sons, and we need more of such things.

5) What did you eat for breakfast this morning?

Today I was selling books at Skidmore Market, which means it was Honey Nut Cheerios with soy milk and stovetop espresso at home, followed by a morning bun and a cup of Stumptown from Ken’s Artisan Bakery on NW 21st. And since the market was slow, I wandered over to Flavour Spot on SW 3rd to get a waffle with sausage and maple spread. I have seven sweet teeth and, at this rate, won’t see the age of 50.

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Tags: Interview, book, author, five questions, Breakfast

Chef Q & A: Jason Neroni

Talking food, folks, and fun with the new executive chef at downtown Portland’s Saucebox.

Posted by: Anna Sachse on Nov 05, 2010 at 10:30AM 0 Comments

Here are the facts on the new executive chef at Saucebox, 34-year-old Jason Neroni: He has spent over half his life either executive chef’ing or working in such notable eateries as 10 Downing Street, Tabla, Le Cirque, Alain Ducasse at the Essex House, Spago, Chez Panisse, and more. For his work at 10 Downing, he received an impressive two stars from the formidable Frank Bruni, former food critic at the NY Times.

Before Neroni clocked in at Saucebox for the first time less than two weeks ago, owner Bruce Carey planned on preserving some of the recipes that had been the restaurant’s mainstays for over 10 years, such as the tapioca dumplings, spicy Korean pork ribs, and Javanese salmon. For now, those dishes remain, but, Carey says, “Jason has very quickly earned our respect to the point where, more and more, the menu will be a reflection of what he can do. He’s interpretive…creative…a real game changer.”

Some examples of what he can do? Well, I can tell you from experience that the hanger steak tartar with pickled mustard seeds, romaine, sesame purée, and quail egg, the crispy brussel sprouts in dashi broth with poached egg and thai basil, the peking suckling pig (see below), the 24 hour short ribs for 2, and the brook trout with smoked marrow, grilled cauliflower, black vinegar, and cashew purée, are delicious and an inventive use of local ingredients, with an Asian spin. And next time I’m trying the sable fish with uni coconut risotto, ginger scented quince, and tagorashi.

Now, Neroni also has a reputation for being unpredictable and restless—two things that I wouldn’t exactly call pejorative when it comes to what goes on a kitchen. And there is some ridiculous drama that swirls around him, based on accusations of exceedingly minor thievery from a restaurant he worked at over four years ago. Despite the fact that these charges were dropped, the media continues to make a fuss about it because potentially criminal chefs are apparently more interesting than the actual food they produce. Carey’s take? “There are always two sides to a story. I know Jason well, I trust him, and I am proud to have him in the family.”

As far as I’m concerned, the matter doesn’t merit any more attention than that because what Neroni should be judged on, if anything, is the merit of his cooking.

So, without further ado, please meet the culinary cowboy himself.

1) Why did you decide to leave the food capital of the U.S. and move across the country to rainy Portland?

This isn’t my first time living here. About three and a half years ago I was out here for a summer with my wife who was working as the GM at Clarklewis, and I had the opportunity to work with John Gorham at Toro Bravo when that restaurant was just opening. I fell in love with Portland that summer—the coast, the vineyards, a large living space unlike NYC, and we have a lot of friends here—but it just wasn’t the right time for us. I got the opportunity at 10 Downing and my wife also got a great job opportunity, so we left. Ever since then, though, we’ve talked about coming back, so when Bruce called, we decided it was the right move at the right time and here I am.

2) Can you tell us a bit about some of those cutting edge food technologies you’re using?

I’m definitely a modernist when it comes to matters of technique. I brine everything—fish, chicken, vegetables, etc. We sous vide a number of items for texture and preserving the food’s integrity. Seaweed gelatin stabilizes certain pastries or sauces in ways that would otherwise be difficult to attain. I’m a huge fan of transglutaminase—it’s a great tool when trying to utilize the whole product. But I also use a lot of good, old-fashioned cooking techniques as well. I don’t see the more “cutting edge” technique as better, necessarily; rather, they are just another tool in my arsenal.

3) In what ways are you making your stamp on Saucebox?

Saucebox will always have an Asian twist, so that’s how I’m approaching the menu. But I want to take it to a place with soul, for lack of a better word—rich, rounded dishes, exploiting Portland’s bounty but also utilizing those amazing exotic flavors. I grew up in Garden Grove/Westminster, California, which has the largest Vietnamese population outside of Vietnam, and I was inundated with those flavors—a lot of my friends’ moms cooked such amazing food… I guess the menu will be my cooking style, but incorporating those foods I had while growing up, as well as Korean, Indonesian, Cambodian, Japanese, and South Asian flavors. I’m not looking for the food to be authentic and I wouldn’t want our patrons to expect that; it’s just my take on great local food—with a couple twists.

4) I hear you’re also handling the dessert menu, so can you name one entrée and one dessert that we should eat?

We’ve started doing a Peking suckling pig confit, where we brine the pig overnight, cook it in duck fat, press it, cut it into squares, and crisp the skin, and then glaze it in hoisin and serve it with crispy sunchokes and pickled red cabbage purée. A dessert that’s been well received is the passion fruit soup with avocado, salted caramel bananas, Thai chili chocolate gelato, and basil.

5) What’s the best non-Carey-restaurant meal out you’ve had in Portland since moving here?

Well, I ate at Tasty n Sons today—it was simple and delicious and my son loved the boudin blanc omelet. I’ve also been to Ned Ludd and I think Jason French is doing an amazing job—great food and cocktails… it was an amazing night out.

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Tags: Portland Chefs, Food News, five questions, Downtown Dining, Asian Cuisine