EAT BEAT - February 2012

PDX Restaurants Spring for Zenger Farm

Beginning March 11th, top local restaurants will be donating a portion of their sales to Zenger Farm, Portland’s only non-profit teaching farm.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 29, 2012 at 02:00PM 0 Comments

With the looming promise of Spring—really, it’s coming—it’s a great time to turn our attention to the farms and farmers that make our incredible food scene possible. One such purveyor of pristine produce (along with a healthy serving of education) is Zenger Farm, Portland’s largest nonprofit teaching farm located on Southeast Foster Road.

Almost a century ago, the land that is now Zenger Farm was home to Mount Scott Dairy, owned by Ulrich Zenger. The son of that dedicated Swiss dairy farmer, Ulrich Zenger Jr. inherited the fertile land and devoted his life to preserving his family land in the face of Portland’s rapid commercial and residential growth.

After Zenger Jr.‘s passing in 1994, the land was purchased by the City of Portland’s Bureau of Environmental Services, which understood the priceless value of an urban wetlands and watershed. Since 1999, Zenger has served as a non-profit teaching farm and open-air classroom, offering farm-based summer camps, kids cooking classes, community events, and hands-on experience for farmers as well as students of agriculture and sustainable food systems.

To make sure Zenger remains a thriving think tank for advancements in local agriculture, restaurants and businesses around Portland are pitching in for the Spring for Zenger Fundraiser throughout the month of March, and you can lend a hand (and a dollar).

Starting March 11th, participating businesses will donate a portions of their proceeds to Zenger Farm’s fundraising initiative, Spring for Zenger.

Want to pitch in? Simply stop into these popular eateries and small businesses on specific days throughout the week:

Sunday, March 11 at The Bent Brick (1639 NW Marshall St.)

Monday, March 12 at Pine State Biscuits (two locations: 3640 SE Belmont St. and 2204 NE Alberta St.)

Tuesday, March 13 at The Woodsman Tavern (4537 SE Division St.)

Wednesday, March 14 at Ned Ludd (3925 NE MLK Jr Blvd), Lincoln Restaurant (3808 N Williams Ave. #127), and Naomi’s Organic Farm Supply at People’s Co-op Farmers Market (3029 SE 21st Ave.).

Thursday, March 15 at Biwa (215 SE 9th Ave.)

Friday, March 16 at Grand Central Baking (all locations) and Portland Nursery (two locations: 5050 SE Stark St. and 9000 SE Division St.)

Saturday, March 17 at Tastebud or Bingo Sandwich on the opening day of the Portland Farmers Market at PSU, Concentrates (5505 SE International Way, Milwaukie)

Sunday, March 18 at Stumptown Coffee Roasters (all Portland locations)

Monday, March 19 at Bob’s Red Mill (5000 SE International Way, Milwaukie)

Tuesday, March 20 – Thursday, March 22 at Sunshine Tavern (3111 SE Division St.)

For more information about the farm and the Spring for Zenger fundraiser, head to the Zenger Farm website or call 503-282-4245.

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Robo Taco

A fun-loving taqueria joins Portland’s growing artisan taco movement

Posted by: Benjamin Tepler on Feb 29, 2012 at 12:55PM 3 Comments

Photo: Benjamin Tepler

Robo Taco’s al pastor

Surf rock tumbles through the tiny Robo Taco space on SE Morrison and 6th Ave, where bright plastic robots line the bar and an impressive collection of 90’s action VCRs weigh down the beverage dispenser. With homemade everything, cheap tacos, and a late night following, these guys are doing something right. Flavors are decidedly fresh and earthy, including homemade tortillas, scorching colorful salsas, slow-cooked pork, and fatty, aromatic lengua (tongue).

Chef-owners Jason Price and Jeff Sprague keep things simple: six meat options and four vegetarian, from an excellent carnitas to a meaty, marinated, carnivore-converting, Portobello and cotija cheese taco. Each version is folded into durable, fluffy corn tortillas made fresh for $2 a pop. A giant gyro rotisserie resembling the robot from Lost in Space slowly cooks the “Al Pastor”: a self-basting, skewered column of orange and guajillo chili-marinated pork under a heaping disk of pineapple. Robo does lengua (beef tongue) fans a justice, with tiny cubes of meat, as fatty as pork belly, but deeply aromatic with a super crisp exterior.

Photo: Benjamin Tepler

Reach into the refrigerator to find four squeeze bottles of salsa: a mellow avocado, fresh tomatillo, habanero with zing, and the fiery chile de árbol red sauce. Squeeze liberally, each flavor and spice level elevates Robo’s offerings tenfold.

Robo is great during the week, when locals, young children, and taco fanatics pack the shop. But beware the raucous weekends, when the place transforms into a late night dining spot for tipsy revelers from nearby bars, Dig a Pony and Holocene. Timing isn’t a strong suit. The tacos are blessedly cheap, but not the most expedient snack; expect to wait at least 10 minutes for your delicious folds of pressed masa.

Tacos are just the beginning. The growing menu includes fresh takes on nachos and huevos rancheros, along with a display case of homemade churros that piles higher with sweet panaderia offerings every day. Four months in, and already with a devoted following, this is clearly a place to watch.

Robo Taco
607 SE Morrison St
(503) 232-3707
Mon-Wed, 10am-11pm; Thu-Sat, 10am-3:30am

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Portland Monthly’s Country Breakfast

Yeehaw! Ya’ll best come on down to the wildest party in the west, with four of them top Portland chefs dishing up mornin’ style vittles and the city’s top five Bloody Marys in a smackdown to rival any noontime duel.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 28, 2012 at 10:00AM 3 Comments

It’s time to rise and dine, folks! The March issue of Portland Monthly is all about the morning meal, and we’ve rounded up the best breakfast dishes and drinks in every corner of the city. Check out Portland’s 10 Best Breakfast Dishes, 10 Top Biscuits, 5 Baked Goods worth waking up for and the 5 Best Bloody Marys to wash it all down.

What better way to celebrate our love of good ol’ breakfast than with a hoedown, Portland style, complete with country-style grub and a booze-fueled contest worth shoutin’ about? We can’t think of one either, and that’s why we’re hosting the Portland Monthly Country Breakfast and Bloody Mary Smackdown on Sunday, March 25th from 10 am to 1 pm. We’re decking out Miller Hall at the World Forestry Center with hay bales, picnic tables, and a dancefloor big enough for everyone.

New takes on favorite breakfast dishes will be served up by Cathy Whims of Oven & Shaker, Jenn Louis of Lincoln Restaurant, Chris Carriker of Gilt Club, and Gregory Gourdet of Departure. On the liquid side of things, bartenders from Tasty n’ Sons, Podnah’s Pit, Irving Street Kitchen, Ned Ludd, and Screen Door will be going head-to-head to prove they’ve got the best Bloody Mary in town. We’ve got a celebrity judging panel to taste them all, but the most important prize is the People’s Choice Award, decided by YOU!

The country good times don’t stop there—live tunes will be provided by the Jackalope Saints, and there will be plenty of beer, cocktails, mimosas, kid-friendly beverages and other surprises throughout the morning. Best of all, the fun is for a great cause: 100% of net proceeds will benefit p:ear.

Want to get in on the fun? Tickets are just $25 for all-inclusive food and drinks (including five Bloody Marys!), $15 for breakfast only, and kids five and under are free! This’ll be a party Portland’s going to talk about for years, so don’t miss out. Get your tickets here, and we’ll see you there!

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Eat Beat Neighborhood News

Top food news stories from around Portland, including the opening of downtown Portland’s Truss restaurant and chef Benjamin Bettinger’s departure from Beaker and Flask.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 28, 2012 at 10:00AM 1 Comments

The bar at Beaker and Flask.

Southeast

SE Sandy: Chef Benjamin Bettinger is leaving the Beaker and Flask kitchen to join the team behind Vitaly Paley’s new downtown restaurant. Bettinger’s relationship with the Paley’s is nothing new: the chef manned the Paley’s Place kitchen from 2002 to 2007, and aided Paley in his Iron Chef victory last year. In his place, current sous chef Anthony Walton will take over the Beaker and Flask kitchen when Bettinger departs in four weeks (720 Southeast Sandy Boulevard).

SE Water: Any week, another round of Bunk Sandwiches news! The formerly evening-only Bunk Bar in the Industrial Southeast is now offering daily lunch service, starting at 11 am. Get your sandwich on (1028 Southeast Water Avenue #130).

Sellwood: Killer Burger’s new location in the former Hash space at 8728 SE 17th Avenue is now open. This is the decadent eatery’s third location in the region, offering signature sammies like the peanut butter pickle bacon burger. Leap year baby bonus: If you were born on February 29th, bring proof of DOB to any Killer Burger location for some free grub.

Southwest

SW Naito: Truss, the new restaurant on the second floor of the Portland Marriott Downtown Waterfront Hotel is now open (1401 SW Naito Pkwy). Named for the truss-style bridges that span the Willamette River, the 80-seat eatery’s kitchen will be manned by former Aquariva chef Andy Ardnt. Menu items are inspired by the bounty of the Pacific Northwest, and include pan-seared trout and braised lamb-shank with hazelnut polenta.

Northwest

W Burnside: According to the Willamette Week, KOi Fusion’s Bo Kwon has purchased the former Stadium Flowers building across from Jeld-Wen Field (2010 W. Burnside St) that will serve as an indoor dining area for the Korean-inspired taco truck, complete with liquor license and bar. This West Burnside space will be Koi Fusion’s third brick-and-mortar location, joining kiosks in downtown Portland and the Bridgeport Village mall.

Citywide and Beyond

National Listage: The Daily Meal has released its take on the"101 Best Restaurants in America for 2012":http://www.thedailymeal.com/101-best-restaurants-america, and three of Portland’s top restaurants nabbed some nods: Beast comes in at number 69, Le Pigeon sits pretty at number 62, and Andy Ricker’s Pok Pok ranks highest among PDX hot spots at number 12. Among the illustrious judging panel that determined the list? Food editors and writers around the country, including Portland Monthly’s own Karen Brooks.

Got a food news tip? Send it my way at ajones@portlandmonthlymag.com!

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Eat Beat Weekly Planner

Our digest of Portland’s top upcoming food and drink events, including a Sherry Tasting at Tabla and five year anniversary parties at Biwa and Double Mountain Brewing.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 27, 2012 at 02:00PM 0 Comments

Tabla Chef Anthony Cafiero

Sherry Tasting at Tabla

What: Sample five sherries with tapas pairings from Chef Anthony Cafiero, and try four additional “Very Rare Old Sherries” averaging 50-70 years in solera. An additional Spanish menu will be available after the pairing, including Polpo a la Plancha with mojo verde, Vitellone Croquetas with saffron rice pudding, Smoked Lobster with pickled apple and fennel salad, and Iberico pork Pluma with celery root and carrots.
When: Monday, March 5th from 6 to 9 pm
Where: Tabla 200 NE 28th Avenue
How Much: $25 basic sherry flight, $40 “Very Rare Old Sherries” flight, $10 tapas pairings. Additional small plates will be $8-18. For reservations call 503-238-3777.

The Advent of Italian-American Cuisine at Basta Trattoria

What: The next installment of Basta’s Historical Dinner Series focusing on the impact that Italian immigrants have had on American food, from bologna to spaghetti and meatballs. Portland Monthly’s Allison Jones will co-host the dinner with Basta Chef and Owner Marco Frattaroli.
When: Tuesday, March 6th from 6:30 to 9 pm
Where: Basta Trattoria 410 NW 21st Street
How Much: $50 per person. For reservations call 503-274-1572.

Andina Taste of Peru Benefit Dinner with PDX-based Green Empowerment

What: A special four course meal with wine and cocktail pairings to benefit Green Empowerment, a local non-profit that helps deliver clean water and electricity to rural communities around the world. Dishes are set to include Spanish octopus in a passionfruit-ají amarillo hot sauce, fresh fettuccini sauté with house made charqui (traditional dried meat) and Peruvian peppers, roasted duck leg glazed with a spicy citrus-tamari sauce, and a wide variety of appetizers and desserts.
When: Monday, March 5 (SOLD OUT) and Tuesday, March 6 at 6 pm.
Where: Andina 1314 NW Glisan
How Much: For tickets and more information, please contact Green Empowerment by phone at 503-284-5774 or online at www.greenempowerment.org.

Biwa’s Fifth Birthday Bash

What: A celebration of five years of delicious Japanese-inspired cuisine in Southeast Portland. The famous Biwa Burger will be available all night long, as well as other food specials including Biwa menu favorites from years passed. The restaurant will also be donating 10% of the evening’s sales to Zenger Farms in support of their “Spring for Zenger” fundraiser.
When: Thursday, March 15th from 5 pm to Midnight.
Where: Biwa 215 Southeast 9th Avenue
How Much: Food prices vary. For more information, call 503-239-8830.

Double Mountain Brewery Fifth Anniversary Party

What: A free, all-day event featuring reserve Double Mountain beers, St. Patrick’s Day food specials, and live music from Meat Puppets, The Quick and Easy Boys, the Resolectrics, and Hood River’s own Four on the Floor. Family friendly until 8 pm.
When: Saturday, March 17th (St. Patrick’s Day) from Noon to 11 pm.
Where: Double Mountain Brewery & Taproom 8 Fourth Street in Hood River, Oregon
How Much: Free! For more information, visit Double Mountain’s website at doublemountainbrewery.com

Breakside Brewing Pairing Dinner at The Bent Brick

What: Three courses (plus appetizers) will be served alongside four beers from Breakside Brewing, including the special Buffalo Trace Bourbon Barrel Aged Ale (a collaboration between Chef Scott Dolich, Bent Brick bar manager Adam Robinson, and Breakside brewing team Sam Barber and Ben Edmunds). Dishes are set to include mussels on the half shell with tobasco mignonette served with Extra Dry Stout, Pork, scrapple, sweet potato, and red eye gravy with Buffalo Trace Bourbon Barrel aged Breakside Brewing Ale, and Xocolatl Churros with malted caramel served with a sourdough ale.
When: Monday, March 19th at 6pm
Where: The Bent Brick 1639 Northwest Marshall Street
How Much: $45 for food and drinks. For reservations, call 503-688-1655

Know about a great event coming up that should be on our radar? Shoot me an email at ajones@portlandmonthlymag.com or give me a shout over on Twitter at @allisonejones. Now get out there and start eating!

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5 Questions for Biwa’s Gabe Rosen

Southeast PDX’s popular izakaya is turning five next month, so we sat down to chat with the owner and chef about the accidental meal that inspired Biwa’s menu.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 27, 2012 at 10:00AM 3 Comments

When Biwa first opened its doors in March of 2007, Japanese-inspired izayaka eateries were a new concept in Portland. Largely due to the success of chef and owner Gabe Rosen’s small-plates menu featuring bold Japanese flavors (both traditional and experimental), the izakaya concept has since exploded (See: Tanuki, Wafu, Miho, Yuzu, Yakuza, among others).

Next month, Rosen and the entire Biwa team will be celebrating their fifth anniversary, complete with an all-out birthday bash on March 15th. In addition to Biwa menu favorites from years past, the restaurant will be offering the much-discussed Biwa Burger—a flavorful patty layered with BBQ pork and topped with spicy kim-chee mayo, typically available very late night only—all night long.

I sat down to chat with Rosen about his last five years, the Portland Ramen Boom, inspirational meals from his travels, and the unlikely success of a kimchi-spiked hamburger.

1. Since you opened five years ago, ramen has become a huge part of the Portland dining scene. Why do you think that is?

I think people get excited about ramen because it is an interesting and delicious snack food (like hamburgers, tacos, or pizza) and people love snack foods. Ramen is very approachable. Its fun to eat a hot bowl of noodles, and it is complimentary to the weather here, too. When we opened Biwa we hadn’t originally intended to serve ramen, just udon. Right before we opened I kind of felt like soup noodles were going to be an important part of Biwa’s possible success and at the last minute added a ramen to the menu.

2. What’s changed about Biwa in the past 5 years?

We have become more open to changing our ideas about what “works” with the Biwa menu identity. We realized that it was more important to cook through the lens of the Japanese food culture than to cook “Japanese food”. We use local ingredients from here, and some are similar to what Japanese cooks use, but we didn’t want to limit ourselves too much to ideas about “tradition”. It’s become more important to recognize that we ARE using ingredients from here, that we DID train as French chefs (mostly), and that we LOVE Chinese food and clam chowder and don’t want to completely cut off access to these influences and experiences in our cooking.

Eating in Japan is so eclectic. Japanese love Italian food, Chinese food, and many if not most izakaya serve French fries, potato salad, and cheese. We came to the realization that we could do things the way we want to, as cooks, because that’s exactly what cooks in Japan do!

3. What makes the Biwa Burger so popular, and what’s this we hear about Biwa tacos?

Well, it is a very tasty hamburger. The Biwa hamburger really started as kind of a fun, lighthearted joke on our first anniversary as a way of sharing a smile with the staff and customers that had been with us since the beginning, and it’s become a tradition. It’s just good, rich late night food. This year we are messing around with Biwa tacos… I don’t expect that they will come around very often (maybe they will come back for cinco de mayo…) but we will do them for a few days the week of the birthday, although maybe not for the birthday itself… that’s really a special day that we like to spend with the hamburger. We are working on a miso carnitas and a kimchi “chilli verde”-type chicken.

4. Which restaurants in town do you find yourself admiring—for their approach to food, drinks, or service style?

As many really great people and friends as I have in restaurants in Portland, I personally like going to not-so-much-part-of-the-scene restaurants on my rare nights off. I really like Two Brothers Cafe and Grill on Belmont, Pho An Sandy, and on rare special occasions I like to eat Korean food in Beaverton or dim sum on 82nd. I would eat sandwiches from Chop or chicken rice from Nong everyday without fail. I think, for the service and wonton soup alone, downtown’s Chen’s Good Taste is hands down one of the city’s greatest restaurant assets. I think, honestly, that at a lot of iconic-type Portland restaurants, the tap lists are a lot more interesting than the dinner menus.

5. Is there a specific experience from your travels in Japan that greatly influenced something on your menu or in the restaurant itself?

One meal that I will never forget—a defining moment for me as a cook—happened completely unexpectedly. I took a road trip in Japan, on Hokkaido where I lived, with Kina [Rosen’s wife and restaurant partner] and my crazy friend Shun. We rented a car and drove like 10 hours through the snow from Sapporo to a town called Kushiro that is well known for its seafood, particularly oysters. Shun, who is an incomparable gourmand, took us to a restaurant called Conchiglie.

At this place you walk in to what appears to be a grocery market filled with fish and vegetables, get a plastic tray, and pick out what you want to eat… shrimp, oysters, salmon bellies, mushrooms. You pay for your food at the cash register and walk through a door into a big room filled with long narrow charcoal grills with stools on each side, surrounded by windows and an amazing view of the North Pacific. It couldn’t get any more simple from there—they provide napkins and shoyu and chopsticks. You can get beer and miso soup from a vending machine. And you grill the most delicious oysters until they just open up and add a little shoyu. It was so good and so primally simple.

This approach, this no frills simplicity, in all of the ways I have seen it in japan, has been a huge influence on me as a cook and informs much of how we do things at Biwa.

Biwa

215 Southeast 9th Avenue
503-239-8830
biwarestaurant.com

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Portland Sweets Earn Praise from Bon Appétit

PDX baking queen Kim Boyce and local chocolate makers Xocolatl de David and Cocanú nab well-deserved nods in BA’s March 2012 issue.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 24, 2012 at 02:00PM 0 Comments

Photo for Bon Appetit by William Abranowicz

Portlanders are growing happily accustomed to seeing mentions of local goods in the mass media, and the March issue of Bon Appetit features a few hometown heroes in the city’s growing artisan sweets biz.

VIP pastry chef and Bakeshop owner Kim Boyce is heralded for whipping up one of the Best Coffee Bar Desserts in America with a spotlight on her cherry-ginger scones available at Ristretto Roasters.

Home bakers rejoice: For the article, Boyce shared the recipe for her take on the breakfast pastry which uses “rye flour for its mild, maltlike overtones, which lend greater depth without overpowering the cream”. Author Charlotte Druckman recommends pairing the scone with Ristretto’s Cowboy Blend with “notes of orange and caramel” that “play off the scone’s tart cherries”.

In addition to the Boyce shout-out, two hometown chocolate makers got the glamour-girl treatment in the March issue. Portland’s Xocolatl de David and Cocanú were listed as two of “the most original, creative, and delicious sweets on the planet”. You can see the full list here.

Xocolatl de David’s David Briggs is no stranger to BA love—last October restaurant editor Andrew Knowlton tipped his hat to the chocolate maker’s Raleigh candy bars. Knowlton swoons over the bar’s “bites of honey-pecan-chocolate nougat topped with bourbon caramel and covered in dark chocolate”, calling it “the best chocolate candy [he’s] had.”

Cocanú’s Sebastian Cisneros has also been swimming in juicy press as of late, with a nod in the Wall Street Journal and another mention in Time Magazine’s Food and Drink section exploring the health benefits of chocolate (According the to article, “Cocanu infuses its Holy Wood bars with aromatic palo santo wood from Ecuador, beloved by Amazonian shamans for its cleansing properties”).

With all the coffee and cocoa love for Portland, who knows, we may nab the “Beantown” moniker away from our Top Chef rival.

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Get Schooled

We’ve rounded up the best cooking classes around Portland where seasoned pros help you, your date, and your kids hone those culinary skills.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 23, 2012 at 04:00PM 1 Comments

Ever wanted to know more about the magic going on in professional kitchens around Portland? You’re in luck—plenty of regional culinary experts are in the business of bringing the pro tips and tricks to you.

Here are our picks for the top cooking classes around town, whether you’re an experienced home cook or need to start with the basics.

Milwaukie Kitchen and Wine

This new grocery/deli/cooking school from Pascal Sauton is offering exciting classes taught by true local experts. From tapas dinners from Crown Paella’s Scott Ketterman to Indian Cuisine classes from Leena Ezekiel, this intimate series is a sure bet for folks hoping to dive deeper into home cooking.
Upcoming classes: Braises and Confit lead by Sauton himself, Italian Trattoria Dinner with Amelia Hard & Allison Bader, English Tea Party with Meredith Mortensen Price.
Location: 10610 SE Main St, Milwaukie
How to sign up: For more information visit milwaukiekitchen.com

In Good Taste

One of the vangaurds of Portland cooking classes, this Lake Oswego-based company offers eclectic classes that always end in a full meal—often with wine! From intensive multi-week cooking series to special date night classes for two, this cooking school is bound to have something for everyone.
Upcoming classes: Farmhouse Cooking in Tuscany with Pamela Sheldon Johns, Spring Break Cooking Class for Kids and Teens, Artisan Sausage Making, Culinary Date Night featuring Asian Cuisine.
Location: 6302 SW Meadows Road in Lake Oswego
How to sign up: For more information visit ingoodtastestore.com

Portland’s Culinary Workshop

One of the newer schools in town, Portland’s Culinary Workshop is lead by professional chef-instructors Melinda Casady and Susana Holloway. This moderately-priced option offers classes around $60 for cooks of all skill levels, from basic braising to butchery.
Upcoming classes: Fresh Cheese 101, Ramen from Scratch, Advanced Cake Decorating, Thai Street Food.
Location: 807 N. Russell Street
How to sign up: For more information visit portlandsculinaryworkshop.com

The Merry Kitchen

Here’s one for the kids! This school offers classes for children and teens led by Registered Dietitian and Chef Julie Merry. She’s got a fully-stocked kitchen and a large organic garden in her backyard to show kids not only how to cook great food, but how to grow it, too.
Upcoming classes: Roll-your-own Sushi, Slumber Party Treats, Hogwarts Table, Cookie & Cupcake Decorating, Dim Sum, Gluten-free Baking.
Location: 5202 NE 72nd Avenue
How to sign up: For more information, visit themerrykitchen.com

Portland Meat Collective

This meat-centric cooking school and community of quality animal product activists believes that everyone should have a deeper understanding of the way food gets to our table. PMC connects Portlanders looking to source local meat directly with the farms that are sustainably raising animals in the region, and offers classes to give home cooks the butchery to charcuterie skills needed to make the most of their freezer full of pork, goat, or rabbit.
Upcoming and Recent Classes: Basic Pig Butchering, Sausage Making, Rabbit Butchery, and Charcuterie Instruction (think rillette, bacon, hams, sausage, and pâté)
Location: Varies
How to sign up: For more information, visit pdxmeat.com

Caprial and John’s Kitchen

Long-time Portland food VIP’s Caprial and John Pence team up to demonstrate their tips and tricks for intimate groups of 15 diners. Though not as hands-on as other classes, “students” in Caprial and John’s Kitchen are treated to a full dinner at the end of the demo and receive plenty of guidance for duplicating dishes at home.
Upcoming classes: Southern Style, Spring Pasta Sauces (at KitchenCru), French Sunday Luncheon, Entertaining Italian Style.
Location: 609 SE Ankeny Street
How to sign up: For more information, visit caprialandjohnskitchen.com

Take it to the next level…

Do you dream of culinary school but can’t make the leap from your current career, or want to truly hone your skills as a home gourmand? Robert Reynolds Chefs Studio offers eight-week culinary diploma courses specializing in classic French techniques.

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The New Power Lunch

We’ve got the scoop on new lunch menus around town, including the reinvention of Clyde Common daytime offerings and lunch hours at Oven & Shaker.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 23, 2012 at 02:00PM 1 Comments

Fried rabbit and cornbread at Clyde Common.

Clyde Common may be connected to the lobby of the Ace Hotel, but as any Portlander will tell you, the hip restaurant and bar is miles above most “hotel restaurants” around the country (1014 Southwest Stark Street; 503-228-3333; clydecommon.com).

Chef Chris DiMinno’s approach to inventive whole-animal and farm-fresh veg cuisine has powered the Clyde kitchen since 2009, but lunch offerings at the SW Stark eatery had been limited to quality sandwiches and sides—albeit with some killer fries. That daytime-casual approach was flipped on its head recently when the Clyde Common team relaunched their lunch menu to reflect the restaurant’s true culinary focus.

According to owner Nate Tilden, Clyde’s lunch “drew a lot of visitors to Portland—people staying at The Ace—who came into the eatery because they’d heard great things in the press and from friends. With so many dinner options to choose from, folks would often come in just for lunch, order a sandwich, and wonder what the hype was about. This new menu gives everyone a bite of the whole Clyde experience, any time of day.”

The best dish on the new small bites and entrees menu? The batter-fried rabbit with braised greens, cipollini onions, and sweet cornbread (pictured above, $15). This decadent dish is like chicken and waffles with super powers—the deliciously moist rabbit is coated in a crispy batter that rivals the best guilty-pleasure chicken-in-a-bucket, set on top of a seared slice of sweet cornbread, and drenched in a creamy sauce that puts the whole thing over the edge into crave-worthy territory. Other standouts include the roasted beet salad with shaved ricotta salata, pistachios, and yogurt ($5 sm/$9 lg) and the roasted cauliflower with fragrantly spicy Calabrian chili and oil-poached garlic ($5).

Fans of the Clyde sandwich selection, have no fear. The menu boasts a selection of a la carte sammies like the grilled Anaheim chile and cheddar grilled cheese with ham ($8), roast steak sandwich with Gruyere ($8), and the Clyde hamburger with those previously mentioned killer fries ($12). The new lunch menu will be offered weekdays from 11:30 am to 3 pm.

Are we seeing a new trend of full-scale menu offerings at lunch time? In a city where upscale-casual options for weekday lunch can be limited, Clyde’s new approach is a welcome shake-up, and the lunchtime success of Little Bird and Grüner certainly proves there’s an audience. Portland restaurants aren’t just great for date night or after-work happy hours—they should be go-to joints for business lunches, daytime visitor itineraries, and those days when braving the elements for a food cart meal just doesn’t appeal.

In other lunch news, Cathy Whims’ new Pearl District hot spot Oven & Shaker will be offering a daily lunch starting at 11:30 am (1134 NW Everett Street; 503-241-1600; ovenandshaker.com).

In addition to the wood-fired pizzas, hot soups, and seasonal salads of the dinner menu, the sexy space will serve several varieties of Puccia—a Puglia-style pocket bread stuffed with tasty fillings. Current Puccia options include pork meatballs with tomato butter and arugula salad, honey-roasted turkey with salsa rossa and mache, and basil eggplant with mozzarella and arugula.

With the launch of the new lunch menu, Oven & Shaker’s new hours are 11:30 to midnight, seven days a week.

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New Details on Bamboo Sushi NW

Bamboo Sushi NW will open in May with fresh takes on raw seafood. We caught up with owner Kristofer Lofgren for all the details.

Posted by: Benjamin Tepler on Feb 22, 2012 at 12:56PM 0 Comments

Bamboo Sushi’s Kristofer Lofgren

A new splash on the sustainable seafood front: Kristofer Lofgren says he will open his second Bamboo Sushi in mid-May at 838 Northwest 23rd Avenue. The expansive 3,200-square-foot Northwest branch will push beyond Bamboo’s sustainable sushi with fish-focused sausages and some playful molecular gastronomy at a time when Portland is finally joining the seafood conversation.

Last year, experimental chef Trent Pierce (Wafu) made waves at the short-lived Fin on SE Hawthorne Boulevard. Now, Lofgren says, his kitchen is picking up where Pierce left off with a “Bamboo Charcuterie Plate” featuring house-smoked fish, sashimi, and “blood sausage” made entirely from tuna, a fresh take on boudin noir. Executive chef Brian Landry (formerly of San Francisco’s Aqua) and sushi chef Jason Knowles test the culinary science waters with dishes like “The Potato Killer,” a simple yam glazed with miso and a dusting of sesame seed and caramel powder.

Back in 2008, Lofgren opened the country’s first “certified” sustainable sushi restaurant at 310 SE 28th Ave, leaving behind all notion of “red” and “green” lists, while delivering creative sushi. As first reported by Portland Monthly last May, the anticipated space on Northwest 23rd Avenue calls for more capacity and more options than the original. The Northwest branch doubles the size of the Southeast original and seats 105 guests, with a 22-seat half-circle sushi bar. According to Lofgren, the front dining room can be closed off for private parties of up to 30 people, and he plans to take a few small party reservations for dinner service every night. “We are trying to create an intimate experience but at the same time have a full happy hour and a great sushi space.”

Sushi, with a side of sustainability.

That new space will completely embrace naturally sustainable elements, from the repurposed rail car wood that covers the bar to the LEED lighting system. Lofgren has big plans for the new restaurant’s aesthetics, including a giant, LEED lit, 25-foot mural for the back of the restaurant. “We are hiring a scientific illustrator to prepare what will probably be a school of sardines…it is supposed to mimic the sensation of looking up at the sun from underwater, you’ll feel like you’re in a sort of twinkling aquatic environment.”

Lofgren’s passion for sustainable seafood extends beyond the kitchen to a new shark-tagging program, where normal guys and gals with $4,000 dollars to spare can fly to Miami to tag and name their own shark in support of University of Miami research. Profits from Bamboo Sushi have helped Lofgren preserve 405,000 acres of ocean in the Bahamas as a marine protected area. “To be sustainable means not just sticking to seafood from the green list,” he says. “Our goal is to make the red list obsolete.”

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Riffle NW Hooks Pearl District Space

East Coast transplant Ken Norris finds a home at last for his “catch-inspired” seafood vision.

Posted by: Benjamin Tepler on Feb 22, 2012 at 12:55PM 0 Comments

Photo: Benjamin Tepler

Spanish octopus at a Riffle test dinner.

Hot off the presses: After months of searching, Riffle NW, a new “catch-inspired” Northwest seafood restaurant plans to open in early May in the former 50 Plates space at the corner of NW Everett and 13th Avenue. Riffle NW is casting out another surprise: a white spirits cocktail program under the command of bartender Dave Shenaut, a mover and shaker in Portland’s mixology scene.

Shenaut has headed the Oregon Bartenders Guild and managed inventive drink lists at Kask and Rum Club. At Riffle NW, he plans to chart new waters: fish pairings made with white (unaged) spirits and house-made ice carved from 300-pound blocks of laboriously frozen, crystal-clear water.

Photo: Benjamin Tepler

Ken Norris at a Riffle test dinner.

As Eat Beat first reported last June, Norris is an avid fly fisherman and experienced chef. Most recently, he ran superstar Marcus Samuelsson’s August restaurant in Manhattan’s West Village. Norris says the revamped 50 Plates space will be lighter and more open, with “a surgical cleanliness” dominating the 80-seat dining room, 25-seat bar and 16-seat private dining room.

The menu, as expected, will focus on beachside classics with local Northwest ingredients and an obsessive attention to house-made ingredients, like fresh baked sourdough bread. (Check out our October Savor column for Norris’ beloved Dockside Chowder recipe here). Expect whole roasted fish cooked over a wood fire oven, clever plays on crab boils, and Norris’ playlist of cold shellfish and sauces.

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Party Pics: Mardi Gras at Irving St. Kitchen

Burlesque dancers! Tarot readings! A whole roasted pig! Eat and drink vicariously through my photos of this annual Pearl District Fat Tuesday party.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 22, 2012 at 11:00AM 0 Comments

Irving Street Kitchen certainly knows how to let the good times roll—and we’ve got the pictures to prove it.

Last night was the second annual Mardi Gras bash at this Southern-inspired eatery, complete with a Creole buffet, all-you-can-eat oysters, slices of King Cake based on chef Sarah Schafer’s mother’s recipe, burlesque dancers, zydeco music, and plenty of old-school New Orleans cocktails.

Hundreds of revelers decked in colorful beads, feather masks, and more than a few sequins packed into Irving St Kitchen for an evening of fun to benefit Portland’s Rose Haven Day Shelter for Women and Children. A photo booth flashed in a corner catching plenty of smiles, as I wandered the room snapping photos of the rest of the fun.

Mark your calendar for next year’s Mardi Gras event, Tuesday, February 12, and for now, eat up some pics:

The dining room’s tables were cleared out to make room for the Southern feast, a dance floor, the raw oyster bar, and a stage for Burlesque dancers.

Tarot readers were set up in Irving St’s cozy curtained booths to reveal the future of party guests. The most likely revelation? Time for another New Orleans-inspired cocktail (the bartenders were shaking up classic Hurricanes and Sweet Tea punch).

Executive Chef Sarah Schafer was up in the dark hours of the morning to roast a whole Carlton Farms pig on the Irving Street patio. In addition to the succulent pork, the kitchen dished out plate after plate of jambalaya, dirty rice, fresh oysters, creamy mac & cheese, and more.

For dessert? A classic King Cake—sweet dough swirled with cinnamon and sugar topped with icing and colorful sugar—with a plastic baby tucked inside…

The lucky guest who received the baby in their slice was crowned Queen of Mardi Gras, and will return to next year’s party with ten of her friends—on the house.

The night was emceed by gregarious food personality Don Bourassa of Yelp Portland.

Guests were treated to sultry shows from three of Portland’s best burlesque dancers for some old-school fun.

Local band Biscuits & Gravy entertained the room with live country folk jams (and one of the members just happens to be Chef Schafer’s brother).

Laissez les bons temps rouler!

All images by Allison Jones

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Portland’s 2012 James Beard Contenders

Six Portland chefs vie in a pool of 20 regional hopefuls for Best Chef Northwest, and four other talents compete in four national categories.

Posted by: Karen Brooks on Feb 21, 2012 at 05:00PM 2 Comments

Ten Portland food creatives have made the first “long list” cut for the 2012 James Beard Foundation awards. Finalists, whittled down to a fiercely competitive five per category, will be unveiled on March 19. Secret judges from around the country vote on the winner, announced on May 9 in the annual New York ceremony.

Last year, Portland’s food revolution officially moved out of the underground when two do-it-yourself local chefs nabbed prestigious chef awards. Le Pigeon’s Gabriel Rucker knocked out tough national competition and won one of the most coveted James Beard awards: the Rising Star category, aimed at hot shots under 30. Pok Pok’s Andy Ricker was named Best Chef Northwest, the first for a local restaurant outside of the iconic farm-to-table school of dining.

This year’s semifinalist list looks more like Beard lists of recent years: established chefs with long-term track records, plus a few surprise newcomers. Vitaly Paley, continuing a string of awards and accolades, will compete nationally with the likes of David Chang for Outstanding Chef. Ken’s Artisan Bakery’s Ken Forkish takes his third lap as semifinalist for Outstanding Pastry Chef, and Clear Creek Distillery’s Steve McCarthy returns as a long-lister for Outstanding Wine & Spirits Professional. Clyde Common is one of 24 places competing for a new category called “Outstanding Bar Program.”

Six Portlanders are in the hunt for the Best Chef Northwest ballot, competing against seven Seattle chefs and seven semifinalists from Oregon, Montana, and Idaho. Returning names include Nostrana’s Cathy Whims (a finalist three years running), Grüner’s Christopher Israel (a finalist last year), and Beast’s Naomi Pomeroy.

Newcomers include Country Cat’s Adam Sappington, whose stature as a premier butcher-chef is growing nationally, and St. Jack’s Aaron Barnett, showing the ongoing love for his Lyonnaise-meets-Southeast Portland restaurant.

Last year, Ricker was only the fifth Portland chef to win Best Chef Northwest. Previous winners are Cory Schreiber (Wildwood), Greg Higgins (Higgins), Philippe Boulot (The Heathman), and Vitaly Paley (Paley’s Place).

The season of intrigue is officially open. Stay tuned.

For a complete list of nominees, click here.

BEST CHEF: NORTHWEST (SEMIFINALISTS)

Chris Ainsworth, Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen, Walla Walla, WA
Aaron Barnett, Restaurant St. Jack, Portland, OR
Matthew Bennett, Sybaris, Albany, OR
Matt Costello, The Inn at Langley, Langley, WA
Matt Dillon, Sitka & Spruce, Seattle
Jeff Drew, Snake River Grill, Jackson Hole, WY
Renee Erickson, Boat Street Cafe, Seattle
Jason Franey, Canlis, Seattle
John Gorham, Toro Bravo, Portland, OR
James Honaker, Bistro Enzo, Billings, MT
Christopher Israel, Grüner, Portland, OR
Jeff Keys, Vintage Restaurant, Ketchum, ID
Brendan Mahaney, Belly, Eugene, OR
Naomi Pomeroy, Beast, Portland, OR
Adam Sappington, The Country Cat Dinner House & Bar, Portland, OR
Ethan Stowell, Staple & Fancy Mercantile, Seattle
Jason Stratton, Spinasse, Seattle
Cathy Whims, Nostrana, Portland, OR
Justin Wills, Restaurant Beck, Depoe Bay, OR
Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi, Joule, Seattle

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Eat Beat Neighborhood News

Top food news stories from around Portland, including the expansion of the Bunk Empire and more details about Duane Sorenson’s next project, Woodsman Hall.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 21, 2012 at 02:00PM 0 Comments

Bunk Sandwiches keeps growing.

Southeast

SE Division: Woodsman Tavern and Stumptown Coffee owner Duane Sorenson has announced more details about another addition to his one-stop-shop of a block on SE Division. Joining the Tavern, neighboring Woodsman Market, and Stumptown Coffee Shop will be the 5,000-square-foot sausage-and-beer-serving Woodsman Hall. According to Eater, the space will feature exposed brick, native wood beams, a fire pit, and ‘beer hall’-style tables. (We hinted at the project in our full review of Woodsman Tavern here).

Northeast

NE Fremont: Johanna Ware—formerly of Nostrana and David Chang’s Momofuku Ssam Bar and Momofuku Noodle Bar—has debuted her own eatery Smallwares at 4605 NE Fremont St. The eatery is serving “inauthentic Asian” small plates, and will be open Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday from 11:30am to 10pm, and will stay open an hour later on Friday and Saturday.

Southwest

SW Pine: Blue Collar Baking Company is now open the the public at 319 SW Pine Street, and you can see photos of the space on Eat Beat here.

SW 6th: Cochon 555, the annual pork-fueled smackdown that pits chef against chef in a battle to the tastiest, is coming through PDX again this year on March 12 at The Original. This year’s participating chefs include Vitaly Paley of Paley’s Place, Naomi Pomeroy of Beast, Adam Sappington of The Country Cat, Jason Barwikowski of The Woodsman Tavern, and Rita Jia You of Lucky Strike. Guests will also be able to dig into porky delights from Nostrana’s Cathy Whims and EaT: Oyster Bar’s Ethan Powell and Tobias Hogan. For ticket info, visit the Cochon 555 website.

Citywide and Beyond

Bunk Empire: According to Eater PDX, Tommy Habetz and Nick Wood of Bunk Sandwiches will be collaborating with ChefStable’s Kurt Huffman to expand the sandwich mini-empire to more PDX locations and, potentially, others around America. Possibilities for nation-wide expansion include Los Angeles and Chicago. Bunk Sandwiches currently operates three locations in Portland, the flagship shop on SE Morrison, Bunk Bar in the Industrial Southeast, and the new downtown location on SW 6th.

Top Chef!: A source has informed the Boston Business Journal that Top Chef’s upcoming 10th season could in in Boston or Portland. Mayor Sam Adams has jumped on the bandwagon in favor of bringing the hit cooking show to PDX, saying via Twitter “Portland vs. Boston!? Baked Beans, Bulkie Rolls & watery beer!? That’s our competition!? Game on!" Stay tuned for more info, and keep them fingers crossed.

Got a food news tip? Send it my way at ajones@portlandmonthlymag.com!

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Eat Beat Weekly Planner

Our digest of Portland’s top upcoming food and drink events, including a Nordic supper club dinner for small business owners and Sunday Supper at Meriwether’s.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 20, 2012 at 11:00AM 0 Comments

Ashley Gartland’s Dishing Up Oregon

Taco Night at Bar Avignon

What: Bar Avginon owners Randy Goodman and Nancy Hunt recently returned from a trip to Mexico and they’ve brought back some killer taco recipes they can’t wait to share. Guest will be treated to a one-night-only Mexican extravaganza, featuring pork shoulder, lengua, and ceviche tacos with sides like citrus slaw, chips and salsa, and ranchero black beans (and plenty of Sangria)!
When: Wednesday, February 22nd, all night while supplies last.
Where: Bar Avignon; 2138 SE Division Street
How Much: $13 for each plate of three tacos. For more information, call 503-517-0808.

Special Snowflake Supper Club Seasonal Affective Dinner

What: Heather Julius—founder and head cook of the Special Snowflake Supperclub—will be collaborating with Cliff Allen of The People’s Pig and Tressa Yellig of Salt, Fire Time Kitchen for a Nordic dinner that celebrates the produce of late winter with dishes like gravad laks, gravad lamb, skyr, aquavit, and Svalbard beet soup. The dinner will be an opportunity for small businesses to network (for more information, visit the Snowflake Supper Club website)
When: Friday, February 24 at 6:30
Where: Abby’s Table 609 Southeast Ankeny Street
How Much: $45 per person donation for food. Additional drinks available. Tickets available here.

Meriwether’s Restaurant Sunday Supper Featuring Ashley Gartland’s Dishing Up Oregon

What: A collaborative wine pairing dinner featuring a menu inspired by Ashley Gartland’s book Dishing Up Oregon. Chef Earl Hook, Stewart Boedecker of Boedecker Cellars, and Gartland will prepare dishes like Beet-Chevre Spead with Meriwether’s Foccacia, Marionberry Pork Mole with Skyline Farm Chiles and Braised Farm Greens, and Wild Huckleberry and Oregon Olive Oil Trifle.
When: Sunday February 26, 5 to 8:30 pm
Where: Meriwether’s Restaurant 2601 NW Vaughn St
How Much: $48 for four courses, optional wine pairings for an additional fee. Call the restaurant at 503-228-1250 to reserve a seat.

Pizzas for Parkas Winter Coat Drive at Via Tribunali

What: Via Tribunali is partnering with neighboring Portland Rescue Mission to collect winter coats for those in need. Guests who donate a coat will receive a voucher for a free margherita pizza, topped with pomodoro, fresh mozzarella, grana padano, olive oil, and basil (regularly $13). Donations can be made at the pizzeria at any time during operating hours (including the new lunch hours).
When: Now through February 28
Where: Via Tribunali 36 SW Ankeny
How Much: Free pizza, people!

Momokawa Saké Supper Club at Wildwood

What: First in a series of Oregon craft saké pairing dinners, featuring sips from SakéOne in Forest Grove and nibbles from . Each chef was told to avoid the typical Asian fare and get inspired with new flavor combinations, so Chef Dustin Clark of Wildwood will pair these local sips with his hyper-local Northwest Cuisine. The next dinners in the series will feature dishes from Andina and Saucebox.
When: Friday, February 24 at 7 pm.
Where: Wildwood Restaurant 1221 NW 21st Ave; 503-248-9663
How Much: $55 per person, including food and saké.

Cheese Pairing with Steve Jones featuring local Wine, Beer, and Cider

What: An intimate two-hour tasting featuring 36 of Steve Jones’s favorite cheeses, paired with wines from Matello Wine and Teutonic Wine Company, beer from The Commons Brewery and Gigantic Brewing, and ciders from Bushwhacker Cider and Wandering Aengus Ciderworks. Guests will learn how to choose their own pairings and vote on their favorite cheeses. This educational event will also feature charcuterie from Fino in Fondo and live music.
When: Sunday, February 26th, with three two-hour sessions at 11 am, 2 pm, and 5 pm.
Where: Tabla 200 NE 28th Avenue
How Much: $49 per person, per session, includes a copy of 33 Books Company’s “33 Cheeses”. For reservations, visit Box Office Tickets.

The Reign of Spain: An Evening of Tapas at Kenny & Zuke’s

What: The ninth annual Spanish tapas dinner at Downtown deli Kenny & Zuke’s, featuring more than fourteen traditional family-style small plates washed down with pomegranate Sangria.
When: Sunday, February 26, seatings at 4:30 and 7:15
Where: Kenny & Zuke’s 1038 Southwest Stark Street
How Much: $42.50 per person, including food and sangria, $35.50 food only, $19.75 kids under 12. For reservations, call the restaurant at 503-222-3354.

Know about a great event coming up that should be on our radar? Shoot me an email at ajones@portlandmonthlymag.com or give me a shout over on Twitter at @allisonejones. Now get out there and start eating!

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Opening Week: Blue Collar Baking

Warren Becker’s working-class sweet shop opened its doors this week on Southwest Third and Pine, and we’ve got photos of the space that’s “not afraid of butter!”

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 17, 2012 at 01:00PM 0 Comments

Warren Becker’s spacious, light-filled bakery has launched into its first week of business catering to the cookie cravers and Bundt lovers of Downtown Portland’s workforce.

Blue Collar Baking Company, attached to the lobby of the Embassy Suites on Third and Pine, is home to a large open kitchen, a long counter stocked with fresh-baked goodies, and plenty of tables and nooks for cozying up with a newspaper, a mug of Water Avenue coffee, and a plate of sweets.

In addition to cookies, bars, coffeecakes, tea breads, scones, and Bundt cakes, the kitchen will serve up panini sandwiches and granola parfaits. Every item on the menu carries the throwback theme of Becker’s blue-collar roots growing up in Milwaukee, Wisconsin in the 1960s, and the bakery is decked out with lunch pails, thermoses, industrial clocks and workingman-inspired art.

Blue Collar’s cookies all have working-class names, like the Lunch Whistle with cranberries, white chocolate, and orange zest, the peanut butter Jackhammer, and the Big Rig, an oatmeal butterscotch cookie laced with cinnamon. According to Becker, “All the cookies cost a buck, because that’s what cookies should cost.”

Here, diners are encouraged to stay a while, with free wi-fi, comfy couches, and an atmosphere that speaks directly to the working stiff in all of us that just needs a cookie at the end (or beginning) of a long day.

Blue Collar Baking Company.
319 SW Pine Street; 503-227-3249
Monday through Friday: 7 am to 5:30 pm
Saturday: 7:30 am to 3 pm

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5 Questions for Bar Avignon’s New Chef Eric Joppie

One of Southeast Division’s classiest neighborhood eateries has a fresh face in the kitchen, and we’ve got the scoop on his approach to simple, delicious food.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 17, 2012 at 10:00AM 4 Comments

Eric Joppie is no stranger to the Portland food scene. A decade ago he was a line cook at Cafe Castagna alongside empire-builder Nate Tilden, but he departed Bridgetown to head several top kitchens in Sonoma (including the lauded—and tiny—Fork in Marin County).

Ten years later, Joppie has returned to PDX to helm another small kitchen, the intimate Bar Avignon owned by Nancy Hunt and Randy Goodman (2138 SE Division St). With the recent departure of chef Jeremy Eckel, Hunt and Goodman began their search for a chef capable of churning out five-star food without a lot of elbow room. Joppie wowed their palates with his upscale approach to comfort food—and a good dose of pastry experience—making the chef transition seamless for the close-knit staff and devoted diners.

Fans of Bar Avignon’s menu will be pleased with the new kitchen offerings, which preserve the overall menu format, price point, and wine/beer/cocktail pair-ability with a fresh perspective. I sat down with Joppie to chat about his return to Portland, his favorite dishes on the new menu, and his passion for a good brunch.

1. What drew you to this neighborhood when you came back to Portland?

I was really drawn to Bar Avignon’s small plate approach. I like that we can do so many styles of dinner here—people come in for a drink and a snack, a full happy hour spread, or a five course meal, which really lends itself to my kind of simple, old-world cooking. This place is small, so there’s not a lot of room to get high-tech with the cuisine. Nancy and Randy have given me free reign to do what I want with the menu, as long as I keep it wine friendly. For starters, I’ve started doing all of the charcuterie in house, as well as a full fresh-made pasta program.

2. What are some dishes you’re really excited about on the menu right now?

I love the duck breast pastrami. It’s brined just like beef pastrami and coated with coriander and black pepper, then smoked low and slow over apple wood. It’s served with caraway and beer mustard and a spelt cracker with rye, so all the parts come together like a Reuben. I’m also doing an agnolotti with foie gras and roasted apple. I sous vide the foie and roast the apples in the foie fat before blending everything together and putting it inside fresh pasta. The stuffed pasta is then served over a cider beurre blanc. [Owner Nancy chimes in with “It’s the best thing on the menu!”]

3. Bar Avignon is known as a great place for food, but the drinks have long been the star. Do you get inspired by the cocktail and wine program?

I actually don’t drink, so this is where Randy’s wine expertise is key. He’s so good at pairing wines with food that I can cook up something that may not be traditionally easy to pair, and he’ll pull out a wine that works so well that it seems crazy nobody had put those tastes together before. I think he really enjoys the challenge.

4. The food scene here is certainly different than it was ten years ago. Now that you’re back in Portland, which restaurants have you been enjoying?

I’ve been going around and trying a lot of brunch spots. I had the best brunch ever at Olympic Provisions Southeast. They’re doing a porridge of polenta with chestnuts and stewed plums with heavy cream. It was inexpensive, homey, and awesome. I’m from South Texas, so I’m also a sucker for Podnah’s Pit. You can’t beat brisket and eggs in the morning.

5. So when is the long-promised brunch finally coming to Bar Avignon?

Bar Avignon’s brunch is a work in progress, so stay tuned. We’ve already got a killer Bloody Mary recipe. I love making old-school pickles, and I’m a bit bummed that I came back on the tail end of the Portland pickle craze. I do think the Bloody Mary “salad” is the most important part of the cocktail, so I’ll be able to put out the best pickles on a stick around.

Bar Avignon 2138 SE Division 503.517.0808
Open 7 days a week, 5 pm to close; Happy Hour Monday through Friday, 5 to 6 pm

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Woodsman Tavern in GQ

One of Portland’s sexiest new restaurants gets the Top Ten treatment from GQ Magazine’s restaurant team.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 16, 2012 at 11:00AM 2 Comments

Domestic Ham Plate at the Woodsman Tavern. Photo: Allison Jones

GQ Magazine’s latest 10 Best New Restaurants in America list (which in previous years highlighted hot spots like Grüner and Ping) has turned it’s hipness-measuring lens on Stumptown Owner Duane Sorenson’s Woodsman Tavern. Chef Jason Barwikowski’s menu gets high marks for international inspiration and the presence of a particularly crave-worthy sandwich (aka domestic ham plate):

“What’s astonishing about the Woodsman is not so much that the kitchen doesn’t miss—it’s that this place didn’t exist until October of last year. It’s the restaurant that, if you’ve never been to Portland, you imagine on every corner: reclaimed wood basking in the glow of Edison bulbs, kitschy Zig-Zag dispensers behind the bar, serious cocktails, serious coffee. But this isn’t just some dutiful, farmy Portlandia-esque ideal, and after a few courses, you realize that the ‘Tavern’ descriptor is typical northwestern understatement, like saying that it sometimes rains here. Start with American ham sliced to transparency and served with bread, butter, and pickled collard greens, which make for the best sandwich in a city with a cultish sandwich culture.”

Looks like GQ has finally jumped on the PDX lovin’ bandwagon. This praise for the Woodsman is a far cry from the lead-in to last year’s list, which remarked (re: Grüner), “What’s a Restaurant Like This Doing in a Place Like Portland?” What a difference a year (and a dozen national and international articles spotlighting our food scene) makes!

You can check out the full list and read the rest of the Woodsman spotlight here.

The Woodsman Tavern

4537 Southeast Division Street; 971-373-8264

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Fried Chicken Skin Salad at Aviary

Aviary’s rebuilt menu packs bold new international flavors, and perfects old standbys, like the fried chicken skin salad.

Posted by: Benjamin Tepler on Feb 15, 2012 at 12:55PM 5 Comments

The fried chicken skin salad at Aviary.

Since re-opening in early December after a nasty fire brought down their operation, Aviary has amped up their food and drink program to a whole new level. The New York-trained triumvirate of head chefs, Sarah Pliner, Kat Whitehead and Jasper Shen, along with their new bar manager, Ross Hunsinger, are expanding the Portland criterion with an eclectic, global menu and killer cocktails to match. It’s hard to go wrong with their simple list of 16 small plates, but the fried chicken skin salad vibrates on another level.

Let me break it down: Aviary’s chef trio marinates the chicken skin overnight in soy sauce and curry, before dredging and frying it to a perfect golden crisp. Next, they toss a salad full of arugula, endive, fresh watermelon, and pickled, smoked watermelon rinds in a chili-fish sauce dressing. Finally, an extra-creamy smear of nutty eggplant baba ghanoush is added to the plate, and all of the ingredients come together in a perfect marriage.

It’s an international smorgasbord of flavors: Thai tang from the dressing, classic Americana in the form of fried chicken and watermelon, with a nutty Middle Eastern spread for good measure. Its also a perfect example of Aviary’s out-of-the-box thinking, a refreshing break from the farm-to-table snout-fest of Portland dining. Try it for yourself, and let us know what you think.

Aviary
1733 NE Alberta St
503-287-2400
aviarypdx.com

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Daniel Mondok Reveals New Wine Country Restaurant Details

Chef Daniel Mondok and Master Somm Brandon Tebbe unveil plans for Paulée, their ambitious new Dundee eatery catering to wine lovers and wine industry workers—muddy boots and all.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 15, 2012 at 12:54PM 4 Comments

Most wine lovers think of Dundee as the one-lane stretch of 99W that slows their tasting room trips to a crawl, but that’s about to change. No, they’re not building a new wine country highway, but starting in April Dundee will be more than a traffic headache—the small town will soon be home to Paulée, the new project from Sel Gris visionary Daniel Mondok and world-class wine expert Brandon Tebbe.

Mondok and Tebbe, along with chef du cuisine (and Paley’s Place/Jean Georges alum) Sean Temple, have collaborated to create a truly unique project in the former Farm to Fork space at 1410 N Hwy 99W. The restaurant aims to be both casual and upscale, will source from local farms within walking distance of the kitchen, and will boast one of the most ambitious drink programs in Oregon.

Inspired by the Paulée de Mersault, the annual Burgundian harvest festival that brings together winemakers, cellar workers, farmers, and the surrounding wine country community, Paulée aims to be a gathering spot for the Willamette Valley’s residents and visitors alike. Mondok and Tebbe have been roaming the valley taking to winemakers, farmers, and tasting room employees to find out what the community needs, and have incorporated their combined decades of expertise in food and drink to create a dining experience unlike any other in the area.

The 90-seat “modern rustic” restaurant will feature two dining areas—a casual bar/lounge set-up and a full dining room anchored around a 10-foot glass-enclosed wine cellar and intimate chef’s table. The build-out is still in process, but guests can expect to see plenty of local wood and natural stone accented by industrial metal elements and clean lines. What they won’t see are white table cloths—while the food will be a welcome revival of Mondok’s farm-driven and internationally inspired modernist cuisine, the talented chef hopes to break down the notion that tasting menus and quality service need to come with a stuffy atmosphere.

The team hopes to draw in the community straight from the vineyard for breakfast pastries, casual happy hours, and full fine-dining dinners. In the a.m., an on-site pastry chef will serve up warm scones, muffins, and breakfast breads in a “coffee shop atmosphere” including drink service from highly-trained baristas using an array of locally-roasted coffee like Heart and Coava.

The evening offerings from will be divided into two sections, a fully raw bar menu and a four-course dinner menu (with everything available a la carte and all special requests honored). At the bar—which will be open for the early and late night crowd—casual diners will find raw specialties like lamb tartare, oysters, raw veggies, and gorgeously composed salads that will pair perfectly with over 48 Enomatic-preserved wines by the glass, 12 local wines on tap, 12 draught beers (half local, half international), and a full-scale mixology program. Every server will undergo extensive training from the Court of Master Sommeliers, beer certification from Cicerone, and mixology training through BarSmarts to ensure a quality sip every time.

In the dining room, guests will be able to choose between five options for each course, including hot and cold appetizers, entrees, cheese, and dessert. Each dish will showcase Mondok’s worldly cuisine, inspired by Asian, Spanish, and classic French flavors and techniques with a focus on ingredients sourced from the Willamette Valley.

To source as locally as possible while maintaining control over the quality of the ingredients, Mondok and Tebbe have leased three plots of land suitable for produce, poultry, and livestock farming. A one-acre space adjacent to the restaurant will bloom into a garden supplying flowers, herbs, produce, and eggs for the eatery. Complete with a bocce ball court and room for outdoor events, this small-scale farm will be a clear sign to diners that their dinner isn’t just locally sourced, it’s grown next door. A larger 2-acre plot lies just down the street, and another 22-acre farm in Amity could source much of the restaurant’s meat within a few years.

If all goes as planned, this inspired farm-to-fork eatery will make Dundee a destination in its own right, and not just a bumper-to-bumper queue to wine country. The restaurant is slated to open in April, so stay tuned for photos, menu details, and more info as it comes in.

Paulée
1410 N Hwy 99W

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Mardi Gras, Portland Style

Mardi Gras is next Tuesday, February 21st, and these Portland restaurants are hoping to prove that Oregonians know how to party as well as anyone in the French Quarter.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 14, 2012 at 01:00PM 0 Comments

Grab your feathered masks and stock up on the beads, because Mardi Gras is less than a week away. If you’re not hopping on a plane to New Orleans this weekend, enjoy the next best thing right here in Portland. These decadent and colorful gatherings are sure to put the jazz in your step and the Fat in your Tuesday.

Pearl District hot spot Irving Street Kitchen’s Second Annual Mardi Gras bash promises to be an indulgent evening of music, food, drinks, and maybe a little bit of magic (701 NW 13th St). The dining room tables will be pushed away to make room for the dance floor where guests will be groovin’ to Southern Blues and sippin’ Hurricanes and Sweet Tea punch. Activites are set to include tarot readings, dancers, and magicians—last year’s party featured fire dancing, and this year’s fete is going to be even hotter. Chef Sarah Schafer will be waking up early to spit-roast a whole Carlton Farms pig on the patio, mix up some spicy jambalaya, shuck a few hundred oysters, and bake her mama’s sweet King Cake to prepare for the night’s all-you-can-eat affair. It’s all going down Tuesday, February 21st starting at 6 pm, and tickets start at $45 a head (including a NOLA-style buffet and plenty of Mardi Gras beads). To purchase tickets, call Annie at Irving St. Kitchen 503-343-9440, or email her at annie@irvingstreetkitchen.com.

Northeast Fremont’s cozy Southern kitchen Acadia is also turning up the heat for next Tuesday’s big party. The restaurant will feature a four-course meal in addition to the regular Cajun-inspired menu. $45 gets each diner four courses (think crab cakes with crab bisque, “crawfish boil” salad with crawfish tails, corn, potato, onion, and andouille, dirty rice-stuffed quail, file gumbo, and house-made King Cake with cream cheese icing) as well as plenty of Mardi Gras beads, masks, and doubloons. Guests who find the plastic baby in their slice of cake will win a $50 gift certificate for a return trip to the eatery. The menu will be offered from 5 to 10 pm on Tuesday, February 21st, and reservations will be accepted (just call 503-249-5001).

Four Brothers from Houston, Texas opened the quaint, friendly My Brothers Crawfish to satisfy their craving for traditional Creole comfort food and fresh seafood boils. They fly their crawfish live from Louisiana 2-3 times a week, and have secured an additional 90 lbs. for Fat Tuesday festivities that will inclued an evening of collecting beads and listening to some New Orleans’s jams. They are open extended hours and extending their generous happy hour that boasts Cajun Bloody Mary’s and traditional Hurricanes paired with oyster shooters, dark roux gumbo, Dungeness crab cakes, and a delectable Banana’s Foster dished out for dessert. (503) 774-3786

Want to get the party started early? Head to the Bossanova Ballroom’s second-annual Portland Mardi Gras Ball for a night of Tickets are $25 when ordered online, and get you in the door with a plate of Louisiana grub provided by the Swamp Shack and a no-host bar. Music will be provided by Too Loose Cajun/Zydeco Band, Atomic Gumbo, the Transcendental Brass Band for plenty of jazzy grooves, and guests will compete for best zoo-inspired mardi gras costumes. The party starts at 7 pm on Saturday, February 18, at the Bossanova Ballroom (722 E. Burnside).

Laissez les bon temps roulez, or for the rest of us, let the good times roll!

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Eat Beat Neighborhood News

Top food news stories from around Portland, including a third Barista coffeehouse location and a new breakfast menu at Sweetpea vegan bakery.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 14, 2012 at 10:00AM 0 Comments

Get your Mi Mero Mole fix at lunch!

Southeast

SE Division: Nuck Zukin’s tacos de guisados joint Mi Mero Mole is now open for Saturday and Sunday lunch, starting at 11 am (5026 SE Division St).

SE Stark: Sweetpea Baking Company—part of the all-vegan strip mall on SE Stark and 12th—has replaced their Sunday all-you-can-eat brunch with a full breakfast menu (1205 SE Stark St). The morning meal will be offered from 8 to 11 am every day, and includes vegan and gluten-free dishes like biscuits and gravy, breakfast sandwiches with house-made sausage and hollandaise, quiche, and loaded grits topped with vegan cheese and bacun bits.

Southwest

SW Washington: Barista owner Billy Wilson—owner of Portland coffee mecca Barista —has revealed the location of the coffee shop’s third Portland outpost at 529 SW 3rd Avenue. In addition to the flagship Pearl District location and NE Alberta coffeehouse, Portlanders will be able to get their artisan coffee fix in Portland’s Hamilton Building, around the corner from the Blueplate Lunch Counter on SW Washington.

Northwest

NW Vaughn: After a month-long remodeling closure, Meriwether’s Restaurant has re-opened (2601 NW Vaughn St). The kitchen updates will double the classic eatery’s output capacity, including new pizza offerings hot from a brand-spanking-new wood-fired pizza oven.

Got a food news tip? Send it my way at ajones@portlandmonthlymag.com!

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Zwickelmania 2012!

One of Oregon’s biggest beer events brings together over 68 breweries throughout the state for a Presidents’ Day weekend full of tastings and tours.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 13, 2012 at 11:00AM 0 Comments

The fourth annual Oregon Brewers Guild’s Zwickelmania will throw open the doors of more than 68 Oregon breweries this Saturday—February 18th—for exclusive (and free!) tastings and tours to give beer lovers the behind-the-scenes scoop on their favorite brews.

More than 30 Portland-area brewers are participating in Saturday’s big event, and the Oregon Brewers Guild has some suggestions for brewery crawls divided by PDX quadrants to make the most of your afternoon. Activities are set to include beer and food pairings, brewer-led discussions, beer samples and more. Breakside Brewing will be releasing three new beers, Cascade Brewing Barrel House will be pouring from live oak barrels, Coalition Brewing will sample their new smoked dunkelweizen, Migration Brewing will be celebrating their 2nd anniversary with live music, and that’s just a glimpse of the full event line-up.

To prepare for a long day of tastings, gird your gullet at a pre-Zwickelmania brunch from Rogue at the Green Dragon (928 SE 9th Ave) and Rogue Hall (1717 Southwest Park Ave), beginning at 10 am, and hop on a shuttle bus for a city-wide crawl all afternoon. Shuttle routes and times in Southeast Portland and NW/North Portland are available on the website.

If you’ll be outside of PDX for the weekend, breweries throughout Oregon are also getting their Zwickelmania on. Check the event website for a full list of participating breweries in Hood River, Bend, Astoria, Ashland, Eugene, Corvallis, and more.

So, er…What’s a zwickel? A zwickel is a spigot on the side of a tank that a brewer uses to taste the beer for quality control during the fermentation process, and Zwickelmania brings the secrets of those tastings to the consumer one day a year—for free. Cheers, and happy sampling!

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Eat Beat Weekly Planner

Our digest of Portland’s top upcoming food and drink events, including free pizza for your old coats and a special cheese pairing seminar with world-class cheesemonger Steve Jones.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 13, 2012 at 10:00AM 0 Comments

Feast on cheese with Cheese Bar’s Steve Jones.

Pizzas for Parkas Winter Coat Drive at Via Tribunali

What: Via Tribunali is partnering with neighboring Portland Rescue Mission to collect winter coats for those in need. Guests who donate a coat will receive a voucher for a free margherita pizza, topped with pomodoro, fresh mozzarella, grana padano, olive oil, and basil (regularly $13). Donations can be made at the pizzeria at any time during operating hours (including the new lunch hours).
When: February 14 through February 28
Where: Via Tribunali 36 SW Ankeny
How Much: Free pizza, people!

Post-Valentine’s Day Wine and Xocolatl de David Chocolate Tasting at Raptor Ridge

What: An intimate evening wine tasting for those who want Valentine’s Day to last a little longer (or for those who didn’t get their act together for the big day) featuring three single-vineyard Raptor Ridge Pinot Noirs, a special single-vineyard Rosé of Pinot Noir, and three sweet and savory bites from chocolate master David Briggs of Xocolatl de David.
When: Thursday, February 16th from 5 to 8 pm.
Where: Raptor Ridge Winery 18700 Southwest Hillsboro Highway.
How Much: $15 per person, no reservations required.

Momokawa Saké Supper Club at Wildwood

What: First in a series of Oregon craft saké pairing dinners, featuring sips from SakéOne in Forest Grove and nibbles from . Each chef was told to avoid the typical Asian fare and get inspired with new flavor combinations, so Chef Dustin Clark of Wildwood will pair these local sips with his hyper-local Northwest Cuisine. The next dinners in the series will feature dishes from Andina and Saucebox.
When: Friday, February 24 at 7 pm.
Where: Wildwood Restaurant 1221 NW 21st Ave; 503-248-9663
How Much: $55 per person, including food and saké.

Cheese Pairing with Steve Jones featuring local Wine, Beer, and Cider

What: An intimate two-hour tasting featuring 36 of Steve Jones’s favorite cheeses, paired with wines from Matello Wine and Teutonic Wine Company, beer from The Commons Brewery and Gigantic Brewing, and ciders from Bushwhacker Cider and Wandering Aengus Ciderworks. Guests will learn how to choose their own pairings and vote on their favorite cheeses. This educational event will also feature charcuterie from Fino in Fondo and live music.
When: Sunday, February 26th, with three two-hour sessions at 11 am, 2 pm, and 5 pm.
Where: Tabla 200 NE 28th Avenue
How Much: $49 per person, per session, includes a copy of 33 Books Company’s “33 Cheeses”. For reservations, visit Box Office Tickets.

The Reign of Spain: An Evening of Tapas at Kenny & Zuke’s

What: The ninth annual Spanish tapas dinner at Downtown deli Kenny & Zuke’s, featuring more than fourteen traditional family-style small plates washed down with pomegranate Sangria.
When: Sunday, February 26, seatings at 4:30 and 7:15
Where: Kenny & Zuke’s 1038 Southwest Stark Street
How Much: $42.50 per person, including food and sangria, $35.50 food only, $19.75 kids under 12. For reservations, call the restaurant at 503-222-3354.

Portland Food Adventure at Gilt Club, with Lardo

What: Next up in the popular Chef’s Choice dinner series from Portland Food Adventures, an interactive multi-course meal with chefs Chris Carriker of NW Broadway’s Gilt Club and Rick Gencarelli of crave-worthy cart Lardo. Diners will enjoy the decadent eateries’ signature flavors and chat with the chefs about their favorite Portland restaurants and bars.
When: Wednesday, February 29 at 6:30 pm.
Where: Gilt Club 306 NW Broadway
How Much: $125 per person, including dinner, cocktails & wine, tip, and gift certificates to some of the two chefs’ favorite Portland places. For reservations, head to the PFA website.

Know about a great event coming up that should be on our radar? Shoot me an email at ajones@portlandmonthlymag.com or give me a shout over on Twitter at @allisonejones. Now get out there and start eating!

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Happy Hour at the New Suzette

Now that Alberta’s most popular crêpe cart has relocated to a brick-and-mortar on Belmont, owner Jehnee Rains is dishing out weekly happy hour offerings that are flat-out awesome.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 10, 2012 at 11:00AM 0 Comments

Once a pastry chef at Chez Panisse, Bluehour, and clarklewis, Jehnee Rains has been flippin’ and fillin’ crêpes at Suzette—her sweet Alberta eatery that was part food cart/part carriage house—to the tune of rave reviews since 2009 (including a nod in our own Best Restaurants 2011).

However, when the talented chef caught wind of a vacancy in a prime Southeast Belmont location, moving her petite crêperie south was a no-brainer: the opportunity for more space, reliable heating, and a full liquor license was too good to pass up.

The move was a smooth one, and Suzette’s new bright, spacious, and colorful home—in the former House of Records/It’s a Beautiful Pizza space—reopened on February 3rd.

The eatery boasts forty seats, full lounge and bar area, as well as local art and quirky touches (think vintage typewriters and a purple cabinet housing stemware). Unlike the old space, which could get pretty chilly on rainy days like these, the new crêperie keeps diners cozy and safe from the elements (though a cup of soup is still a welcome warmer).

Fans of Suzette’s menu will be glad to see that the classic sweet and savory crepes (complete with vegan and gluten-free options) and crave-worthy French onion soup are still available, but with the new location comes new happy hours and a full bar. Tuesday through Saturday from 4 to 6 and 9 to close, the $3 happy hour offerings draw a crowd. Guests can fill the table with a veritable Greatest Hits mix of Suzette dishes, including ham and cheese, prosciutto, sautéed mushroom, and marsala soaked fig crêpes for just three bucks each. Add a few cups of soup and a round or two of microbrews and you’ve got yourself a Parisian party that will make everyone happy.

Suzette Crêperie
3342 SE Belmont Street; 503-546-0892

Happy Hours: Tuesday – Saturday 4 to 6 pm, and 9 pm to close.
Pre-fixe Brunch: Saturday and Sunday, 9 am to 2 pm
Regular Hours: Tuesday through Thursday, 11:30 am to 10 pm; Friday 11:30 am to midnight; Saturday 8 am to midnight; Sunday 8 am to 4 pm.

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Video Crush: The American Beer Revival

Check out this info-packed little video that spells out the history (and future) of the American craft beer industry, with a special shout-out to the perks of being an Oregonian with a pint glass.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 10, 2012 at 10:00AM 0 Comments

While it’s no shock to anyone in Portland that the craft beer business has exploded in the past few years, it’s pretty awesome to see that the growth is not confined to our neck of the bottle. For the first time since the pre-Prohibition Belle Époque of Beer, the number of craft brewers in America has passed 1,750 (and that number is swiftly growing).

Here in P-town, our beer fanaticism is reaching new heights as well, what with food carts around town lobbying for licenses to pour and new eateries brewing up their own suds to pair with the locally-grown goods on their menus.

Though it’s pretty easy to see that the industry in booming—just drive down any major street in the city and look out for bearded dudes unveiling their shiny new brewing tanks—it’s sometimes helpful to see the facts spelled out in attractive animated typography. I stumbled upon this great infographic-fueled visual.ly clip that spells out just how big the American craft beer bubble has grown, so check it out for yourself.

Local pride bonus: watch out for the reason that Oregonians are “spoiled” when it comes to our local tap list.

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Give a Wine Country Getaway this Valentine’s Day

Still looking for a Valentine’s Day gift that will knock your sweetheart’s socks off? Indulge their wine-country fantasies with wine, chocolate, and über-affordable tickets to the exclusive North Willamette Wine Trail Weekend.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 09, 2012 at 08:30AM 0 Comments

Photo: Daniel Root

Here’s a great way to spread the love of Valentine’s Day over a few months: spend this weekend sipping wines around the Willamette Valley, then buy your sweetheart follow-up tickets to the North Willamette Wine Trail Weekend (March 31 & April 1).

This weekend (February 11 & 12) fourteen North Willamette Vintners are pulling out their most romantic vintages and serving up some truly memorable events for the Wines, Vines and Valentines weekend. Each event is priced separately, and you’re sure to find a vineyard that best fits your relationship (and budget). You’ll find wine and chocolate pairings for just $5, several romantic meals, and a chance to create your own wine blend with a custom label.

Once the official holiday of love is over, your darling will be able to look forward to next month’s vino adventure. The North Willamette Wine Trail Weekend brings together two dozen wineries for a day-tripper weekend worth remembering for seasoned wine lovers and novice sippers alike.

This ticketed event provides guests with complementary tastings of new and reserve wines, food pairings, and entertainment at each winery, as well as a long list of discounts and offers from area restaurants and hotels. Make a weekend of it and enjoy exclusive vineyard tours, winemaking demonstrations, and hands-on activities that will give you an exclusive look behind the scenes of your favorite wines. A list of participating wineries can be found here.

Tickets are just $45 for Saturday and Sunday, or $30 for Sunday alone. Buy you and your valentine tickets today, and consider your Valentine’s Day shopping done. FYI, adding a treat from a local sweet shop wouldn’t hurt…

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Tags: valentine's day

Navarre to Expand

Owner John Taboada’s unnamed project will rise this summer in the former Chin Yen space on Northeast 28th Avenue

Posted by: Karen Brooks on Feb 08, 2012 at 12:56PM 4 Comments

John Taboada and wife Giovanna Parolari at Luce

Chef John Taboada always has harebrained ideas going, and most of them work. Taboada was ahead of the curve in 2001 when he helped pioneer Portland’s do-it-yourself Eastside food scene at Navarre, an icon of farm-to-city eating. Luce, a reimaged Italian mom-and-pop shop run with his wife Giovanna Parolari, is humming along to happy reviews on East Burnside since opening in late fall. (Read our review here)

But Taboada had long dreamed of a four-table bar serving his beloved Europeans sips—aperitifs and digestifs—when Navarre neighbor Chin Yen recently shuttered. “I’ve been sandwiched between Starbucks and Chin Yen for ten years,” says Taboada. “I couldn’t resist.”

Game on. Taboada is starting the build-out for a new and as-yet-unnamed bar; what Taboada calls “a kindred spirit to Navarre, but not the same thing.” The plan, so far: a menu of appetizers and desserts only, to pair with drinks meant to be sipped before and after meals. A “secret dining room” is in the works, to house small groups and spontaneous parties. Meanwhile, a large prep kitchen means Navarre can expand beyond the nano-batch limits of its closet-sized kitchen. More charcuterie is on the table, and no one makes a pate like John Taboada. ETA is three to six months.

The new project occupies roughly one-third of the vast space held for decades by Chin Yen. According to Taboada, the landlord agreed to break the space into three spots rather than one large restaurant, opening up possibilities in a neighborhood of small businesses.

Is Parolari on board? The style maven and scavenger supreme is busy relocating her popular Una boutique to SE Ankeny St. “Oh, I don’t know, but I hope so” Taboada says. “She’s so busy right now I can’t even ask her. I’m just going to say yes!”

Navarre
10 NE 28th Ave
503-232-3555
navarreportland.blogspot.com

Luce
2138-2140 E Burnside St
503-236-7195
luceevents.blogspot.com

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Nong’s Khao Man Gai Expands East

The queen of carts crosses the river with a new takeout space.

Posted by: Benjamin Tepler on Feb 08, 2012 at 12:55PM 0 Comments

Good news for the chicken and rice-deprived eastside population. For her third outpost, Nong Poonsukwattana is opening up her commissary kitchen on SE Ankeny to the public. Amongst the giant vats of stewing poultry, heaping sacks of perfectly fluffed rice, and Nong’s famous ginger/garlic spiked sauce, you can buy a bundle of Khao Man Gai to go, without EVER going downtown.

Take-out service starts next Monday, the 13th of February and will run every Monday-Friday, from 11-4pm, with plans to open on the weekend.

Nong’s bottled Khao Man Gai sauce is still in the works for retail distribution. You can get a sneak peak in our latest issue.

Nong’s Khao Man Gai
609 SE Ankeny St, Suite B
503-740-2907
Monday-Friday, 11-4pm

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Cult Favorite Chefs Staging 10-seat Dinners

Podhah’s Rodney Muirhead and food-cart star Nong are among the cast of chefs lined up for an intimate dinner series at Robert Reynolds Chef Studio.

Posted by: Benjamin Tepler on Feb 08, 2012 at 12:55PM 0 Comments

Robert Reynolds and his dog, Thomas

Robert Reynolds is well known in Portland for his small, coveted cooking school, Chef’s Studio, on SE Pine Street. Every month, small batches of students and a few lucky diners bask in his erudite symposium of old school French and Italian cooking. This March, Reynolds is hosting his “Class Act dinners,” a month long series featuring some of Portland’s top chefs.

This years roundup is an all-star list: everyone from Paley’s Place dessert queen, Kristen Murray, to Thai cooking ambassador, Nong Poonsukwattana and Portland legend, Alton Garcia will be serving up a feast in their own unique style.

Each intimate dinner is part four-course meal, part cooking demonstration, with the chefs counter within reach. Each night features a different lineup led by appetizers, aperitifs, “what the French might call an entrée,” a main course, cheese, and dessert. The price is $45, with an additional $7 fee for wine. Seating is for 10 people per night. As Reynolds puts it: “We cook, we talk, we serve—you eat and drink.”

March 4th: Rodney Muirhead (Podnah’s Pit)
March 10th: Nong Poonsukwattana (Nong’s Khao Man Gai)
March 11th: Alton Garcia (Portland MVP, with stints at Genoa, Nostrana, Broder)
March 24th: Kristen Murray (Paley’s Place)
March 25th: Robert Reynolds (the man himself)
TBA: Kevin Gibson (EVOE)

Robert Reynolds Chef Studio
2818 SE Pine St
To reserve, email troufood@me.com, or call 503 421 9257

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Eat Beat Neighborhood News

Top food news stories from around Portland, including lunch hours at Via Tribunali and a Food & Wine nod to St. Jack Pastry Chef Alissa Rozos.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 08, 2012 at 10:50AM 0 Comments

Alissa Rozos’s madeleines at St. Jack. Photo: Stuart Mullenberg

Northeast

NE Fremont: Grand Central Bakery is set to open its seventh location in Beaumont Village, at 4440 NE Fremont (formerly occupied by Fife and Soluna Grill). The new cafe will open early summer after an interior remodel.

NE 24th and Glisan: Tabla owner Adam Berger is setting out to serve “the tastiest balls in Portland” at his new meatball-centric eatery 24th and Meatballs. According to The O, the 30-seat restaurant will serve “beef, lamb, pork and turkey meatballs on hoagies, panini, cheesy polenta, and at least one fresh pasta prepped at Tabla each day”. Also, frozen custard! Stay tuned for more info.

Southwest

SW Third: The pizza slingers over at Via Tribunali have announced that the Neopolitan eatery will start lunch service on Monday, February 13. You can now get your Pizza Margheritas and Calzones starting at 11:30 am, Monday through Saturday. (They’ve also got heart-shaped pizzas for Valentine’s Day!)

SW Salmon: Aaron and Jessica Grimmer, co-owners of crepe-and-rice-pudding joint Pudding on the Rice, are opening a new eatery at 723 SW Salmon. The Picnic House will be a 55-seat “fast-casual” eatery, stay tuned for more info.

SW Washington: More word on Christopher Israel’s downtown taco from The O. The soon-to-open eatery has been dubbed Corazon, and is set to serve “$3 beers, shots and seven types of tacos (think fish, octopus).” Good fish tacos in Portland? Finally.

Metro Area

All Around the Bubble: The Tigard-based Typhoon! Thai restaurant chain has permanently closed all locations, according to a press release from co-owner Bo Kline. Citing the emotional and physical tolls of operating the business, as well as the death of co-founder Steve Kline last year.

National

The Internets: St. Jack pastry chef Alissa Rozos is a West Coast finalist in the Food & Wine Magazine People’s Best New Pastry Chef competition. Readers have the chance to vote for their favorite pastry pro on the website, so go show some Portland Pride!

Got a food news tip? Send it my way at ajones@portlandmonthlymag.com!

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Souped Up

Culinary share space, KitchenCru, runs hearty, affordable soup lunches through March.

Posted by: Benjamin Tepler on Feb 08, 2012 at 09:30AM 1 Comments

Photo: Benjamin Tepler

(From left to right) mulligatawny, butternut squash, and minestrone.

Downtown professionals know their lunch options. Endless food cart pods, a few sandwich shops here and there, maybe even a trip to Little Bird for a power lunch. You can break the monotony this month (the unofficial soup season) at KitchenCru, a community kitchen space in the Pearl District. The culinary incubators over at the KitchenCru chef’s counter are running a sweet deal: $7 for house-baked bread, a fresh, simple salad, and one of three fantastic soups, with new flavors rotating in every week.

Last week’s slurpable feast brought the Anglo-Indian Mulligatawny, a subtly spiced chicken broth, endowed with curry, basmati rice, and bright bites of apple along with a superlative minestrone, hearty with wilted kale and a dollop of garlicky pesto. A sneak peak at this week’s souped-up menu promises tomato bisque with truffled grilled cheese, a split pea soup with ham, and an Italian wedding soup with polpettine and escarole.

The modestly priced soup series (including a $9 sampling of all three flavors) is held every Thursday and Friday, 11:30-2:30pm. Don’t forget about the $5 glass of wine that comes with lunch, curated by the knowledgeable Dan Beekley, from CorksCru next door. “Souped-Up February” will run through March 2nd at which point we can all transition back into our early-springtime asparagus craze.

KitchenCru
337 NW Broadway
503-226-1900
“Souped-Up February” runs through March 2nd
Every Thursday and Friday, 11:30-2:30pm

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Date Night: V-Day Edition

We’ve curated a best-of list featuring Portland’s top Valentine’s date night options, so you’re bound to find the meal that truly suits you and your sweetheart.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 07, 2012 at 02:00PM 0 Comments

I’m dreaming of the perfect dinner…

We’ve all got different ideas about what makes a perfect date night, so we’ve culled through this year’s Valentine’s Day dinner offerings to help you craft the perfect evening to match your personal foodie style.

Classic and Classy

clarklewis Love is Local Ingredients
Live the high life with this four-course meal highlighting the best of Oregon’s seasonal bounty. Dishes are set to include Dungeness crab arancini, chocolate-braised duck legs, wild shrimp wrapped in lardo, braised rabbit ravioli, pork belly-wrapped pork loin, and grilled leg of lam. $65 per person, for reservations call 503-235-2294.

Wildwood serves up Valentine’s Day Lunch and Dinner
Nothing says romance like lingering looks over lunch. Specials are set to include Grilled Pork Belly Confit with mashed chickpeas, cocoa-braised lamb ribs with harrisa polenta, or apple and radicchio salad with honey, grated walnuts, and buttermilk blue cheese. Lunch reservations available from 11:30 to 2:30 and dinner reservations available from 5:00 to 9:45. Call 503-248-9663 for more details.

Paley’s Place Pulls out the Big Guns
This Valentine’s Day, Paley’s Place will be offering specials like Baked Oysters Rock’a’fella made ‘Paley’s Way’ with bacon, foie gras, and black truffles, an Oregon black truffle tart with apples and leeks, spit-roasted Duck Breast and Duck Leg Confit with shaved foie gras, and a New York Strip Steak with creamed greens, Dungeness crab, and bacon hollandaise. Call 503-243-2403 for reservations.

More Valentine’s Day Specials: The Heathman, 23Hoyt, Genoa.

Oh-So-Portlandia

Ned Ludd Four-Course Menu for Lovers, Seatings at 6 and 8
This Northeast love nest is featuring heart-felt specials from the wood fire oven, like hen ragu with arugula, smoked trotter terrine, venison with celery root and juniper, beef coppa mole, and a few decadent desserts. Vegetarian options available by request. $45, wine pairings for an additional $20. Call 503-288-6900 for reservations.

Din Din Supper Club’s Sexy Valentine’s Day
This year, sexy means Italian—think romantic menu items and Armani-clad servers and cooks—at two din din dinners: one at the Sakura Ridge Farm & Lodge in Hood River on Saturday, February 11th at 6pm, and one on Valentine’s Day proper (the 14th) at 7pm in Portland at The Little Church, 5138 NE 23rd. Both events are $85 for five courses and wine pairings. Head over the the din din website for full menu details and reservations.

More Valentine’s Day Specials: Gilt Club, Blossoming Lotus, Acadia

Vino-centric

Bar Avignon Toasts to Love and Oysters
Everyone knows oysters are an aphordisiac, so pile them high with Bar Avignon’s Valentine’s Oyster Flight. Get two baked Yaquina Bay “Rockefeller” oysters, raw Kusshi oysters with Champagne mignonette, and raw Malaspina oysters with Mimosa Gel, all for $18. Grab a bottle of wine or some specialty cocktails, then finish your romantic meal with a Molten Chocolate Cake with espresso creme anglaise and Bourbon chocolate truffles. Specials will be available from Friday, February 10th through Tuesday, February 14th. For more information, call 503-517-0808.

More Valentine’s Day Specials: Andina, Red Ridge Farms Chocolate and Wine Tasting.

Modern Romance

Departure’s Naughty and Nice Dinner For Two
This set-price menu will feature Kampachi sashimi with roasted grapes, apple and parsnip soup with duck confit and ginger, Chili Noodles with crab, and beef cheeks in toasted coconut, plus a decadent chocolate dessert. $50 per person, call 503-802-5370 for reservations.

Aviary Does Four Romantic Courses
Alberta’s internationally-inspired eatery is serving up four courses of tasty treats, including Arctic Char crudo with blood orange and caviar, truffled egg toast, and pan-roasted squab with soy caramel and yellowfoot mushrooms. $55 per person, wine pairings available for an additional $25. Call 503-287-2400 for reservations.

More Valentine’s Day Specials: Biwa, Yakuza.

Meat + Potatoes = Love

Urban Farmer Luxurious Meals for Two
Sharing is caring, so grab your darling and head to the Nines Hotel for a truly decadent meal for two. Choose between a Northwest Seafood Platter with Hama Hama oysters, Honey mussels, Dungeness crab, and smoked sturgeon for $45, butter-poached Maine lobster with salt-cured foie gras and black trumpet mushrooms for $55, and 21-day dry aged 32 ounce Ribeye with bone marrow and horseradish, carved tableside for $110. Specials available from Friday, February 10th through Tuesday, February 14th.

The Country Cat Reservations available, call 503-408-1414
Chef Adam Sappington is preparing lover’s specials like a Steak for Two with scampi butter and lacy potato cake, oysters on the half shell with green apple mignonette, and a decadent milk chocolate dessert to share. Regular menu also available.

Besaw’s Sexy Surf and Turf
This Valentine’s Day, tuck into an Oyster Plate with three fried and three fresh oysters then choose between Peppered Beef Tenderloin with beef demi-glace and celery root puree or Grilled Ahi Tuna with avocado chutney. For reservations, call 503-228-2619.

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Tags: valentine's day

5 Questions for Healthy Dinner Party Diva Abby Fammartino

The chef and owner of Abby’s Table is launching Abby’s Table Healthy Kitchen Membership, lending her allergy-free dinner tips and tricks to home cooks that have fallen in love with her approach to farm-to-table food.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 07, 2012 at 10:00AM 2 Comments

Photo: David Lanthan Reamer

When guests sit down to dinner at Abby’s Table on Southeast Ankeny, there’s an almost palpable feeling of collective anticipation for the family-style meal ahead. There’s no menu to select from, just the promise of a gourmet four-course meal made without gluten, dairy, or soy. The results are invariably delicious, and after the meal the assembled crowd bursts into a round of applause to congratulate the kitchen team on a difficult job done well.

With a new online membership revealing recipes, shopping tips, and nutritional information, Fammartino hopes to break down that aura of perceived difficulty, one email at a time.

Fammartino has been dreaming up delicious allergy-free dishes for years. After attending the Natural Gourmet Institute of Food and Health in Manhattan, she worked at the lauded Greens in San Francisco and was even the featured chef on a National Geographic Expedition in the Aleutian Islands. Her eclectic experience and love of travel are reflected in the international flavors on her menus, and her passion for healthy, delicious foods has prompted her to launch an online service that debunks the myth that from-scratch, healthy cooking must be a daunting feat.

I sat down with Fammartino before a delicious dinner to get the behind-the-scenes scoop on her most-loved cookbooks and blogs, her favorite Portland restaurants, and the new Abby’s Table Healthy Kitchen Membership that brings the treats of her table to your kitchen.

1) Tell us about your new subscription service, Abby’s Table Healthy Kitchen Membership.

It was inspired by all the people who come to our dinners who are so excited to eat things that are both delicious and good for them. We want to empower people to feel that way in their own kitchens, to make allergy-free cooking less intimidating. Instead of giving people a bunch of recipes, we’re sharing the skills, the improvisation tips, the ways you can take one recipe and learn how to transform it into meals that last throughout the week. Each week, members receive seasonal recipes, a discussion of the health benefits of the week’s ingredients, a shopping list, kitchen tips, and videos and audio chats with me and our functional nutritionist Andrea Nakayama.

2) Which cookbooks and blogs have inspired your culinary style?

I really like 101 Cookbooks, Hot Sour Salty Sweet by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid, A Spoonful of Ginger by Nina Simonds, and The Herbfarm Cookbook by Jerry Traunfeld. Mostly, though, I’m inspired by the weather. When it’s cold and dreary outside, I want to give people the comforting food they crave, and when the sun comes out, I try to make it feel a bit more like summer on their plates.

3) What have been some of the most popular "Abby’s Table dinners?

People have loved our Breakfast for Dinner events, but our most popular dinners tend to be the ones that feature spicy, “complicated” flavors. The Southern Indian and Sicilian dinners, as well as the Oaxacan and Thai events, seem to get people really excited, and we get a lot of requests for recipes from those international cuisines. We also just did a Norwegian dinner full of a lot of new flavors and dishes that translate so well to ingredients from the Pacific Northwest.

4) Your dinners are definitely some of the least expensive four-course experiences in town. Why have your prices stayed so low?

Pricing has always been a big part of our message. When we started, our dinners were small, $12 deals, and now they’re only $24 for four courses. With the dinners here, we’re more interested in bringing people in and showing them what we can do, turning them on to these dishes and cooking skills. It’s not about profit, at a certain point. It’s about creating a space where people and come together on a regular basis and eat what they love, and not have to save up for a month to do it.

5) Which restaurants do you enjoy when you’re not in your own kitchen?

I love clarklewis, Grain and Gristle, and Pok Pok (I have a soft spot for chicken wings). Really, there are so many places in Portland where it’s possible to eat the way I love eating!

Abby’s Table
609 Southeast Ankeny Street
503-828-7662

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Naomi Pomeroy to Relocate and Update Beast

Portland’s pork princess plans to roll out a new look, new location, and new ideas by September.

Posted by: Karen Brooks on Feb 06, 2012 at 03:20PM 8 Comments

Naomi Pomeroy and Mika Paredes

Six years ago, Naomi Pomeroy opened one of Portland’s great food experiments, a supper club with reservations, six-course feasts, and major girl power. Now, with a pile of national media clips and two food-TV-star turns under her bistro apron, she’s ready to take the next step. Pomeroy tells Eat Beat that she will not renew the lease on her two-table house of cool at NE 30th Avenue and Killingsworth Street. The lease expires in August. Her plan is to take Beast to a bigger location. The signature communal dinners will stay, but Beast will unleash a bar with a playful menu and seasonal cocktails that break with Portland’s manly bourbon and bitter-centric drinks. “I want people to come when they want,” she says. “Right now, it’s just one option—come for the night and six courses. I’m lightening things for us. This town is so dude food.”

Pomeroy is scouring downtown and surrounding neighborhoods. Basically, she says, “I’m looking for a landlord excited to have me, what I can bring to a neighborhood.” Meanwhile, her longtime culinary sidekick, Mika Paredes, has signed on for the ride.

However it shakes out is bound to be interesting. Pomeroy has great style—no one sets a more beautiful table. Ideas right now to complement the multi-course dinners are in the blue sky phase. “If we go downtown, I’d do lunch. Maybe tapas, Barcelona-style, plates ready to grab; or just a fixed menu. I’ve toyed with idea to do a walk-by sandwich window, a brick-and-motor food cart. I’m super excited about the ideas.”

Pomeroy plans to celebrate one of Portland’s most personal spaces with special feasts from now through August, from beer dinners to vegetarian throw-downs. Watch the web site for details: beastpdx.com

Beast
5425 NE 30th Ave
503-841-6968
Dinner Wed–Sat

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PDX Chefs Serve Soup for the Soul

Eat Beat’s snagged a pair tickets to Transition Project’s Soup for the Soul Event featuring Portland’s top chefs—and we’re just itching to give them away.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 06, 2012 at 11:00AM 0 Comments

Looking for a chance to hobnob with the hot shots of Portland’s culinary scene and help a great cause at the same time? The Transition Projects Soup for the Soul competition is taking over the Pearl District’s Urban Studio on February 23 from 6 to 8:30 pm, and will feature some of Portland’s biggest names in food and drink serving up their take on winter’s warmest dish.

Among the recognizable faces at the benefit-in-a-bowl dinner: Christopher Israel of Grüner and the upcoming Corazon, Daniel Mondok of Genoa, Sel Gris, and an upcoming wine country restaurant in Dundee, Greg Samples of Portland Prime, Amanda Ames of Chez Joly, Karen Pride and Brittney Galloway of Prasad Cafe, and the up-and-coming culinary stars of the Oregon Culinary Institute’s Food Ethics and Social Responsibility department.

The event will be emceed by FOX 12’s Andy Carson, and will also feature nibbles and sips from Cupcake Jones and Widmer Brothers brewing.

Want to sip soup with the pros? The $75 event will benefit the work of Transition Projects, an organization that helps over 500 people move from homelessness to housing each year. Get your tickets for the soup showdown here. (A portion of the ticket price is tax deductible.)

Foodie Freebie: If you’d like to score a free pass to the soup extravaganza, you’re in luck. Eat Beat’s snagged a pair tickets to give away to our readers, and they just might have your name on them. Send me an email at ajones@portlandmonthlymag.com with “Soup for the Soul” in the headline by Friday, February 17th at 5 pm, and I’ll pick a winner at random for a night of soup, dessert, beer, wine, music, and good vibes.

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Eat Beat Weekly Planner

Our digest of Portland’s top upcoming food and drink events, including a carbonated cocktail seminary with Jeffrey Morgenthaler and two tapas dinners worth a taste.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 06, 2012 at 10:00AM 0 Comments

Wine dinners shine at Luce.

Great Wine Buys Vietti Dinner at Luce Restaurant
What: A seven-wine, five-course dinner at Luce highlighting the wines of Vietti, one of the top producers of Piedmont. Chefs John Taboda and John Willis will prepare classic Piedmontese dishes including eggs in green sauce, risotto with red wine, and capon in hazelnut and honey sauce. Paired wines will include Arneis, Barbera d’Asti, Nebbiolo Perbacco, Barolo Castiglione, an older single-vineyard Barolo, and Moscato.
When: Wednesda,y Febuary 8th at 7 pm.
Where: Luce, 2138-2140 E. Burnside St
How Much: $75 including all food, wine, and gratuity. For reservations, call Great Wine Buys at 503-287-2897.

Tapas & Tango with Penner-Ash, Toro Bravo, and Ned Ludd
What: A pre-Valentines’ Day tapas feast featuring flowing Penner-Ash wine and plenty of dancing to a live band. Chefs John Gorham of Toro Bravo and Jason French of Ned Ludd are crafting a tapas-inspired menu from locally sourced ingredients, and Alex Krebs, world renowned tango dancer and instructor, will show guests the basics of the most romantic dance in the world.
When: Friday, February 10th at 5:30
Where: Penner-Ash Winer
How Much: $100 per person. For reservations, call 503-554-5545.

Carbonated Cocktail Seminar with Jeffrey Morgenthaler
What: Get the low-down on bubbles, the biggest trend in cocktails, from one of the best bartenders in Portland. Find out about home carbonation, try a few sparkling cocktails for yourself, and embark on a crash course in the history of carbonation. This is a Portland Culinary Alliance event, but is open to the public.
When: Sunday, February 12th at 2 pm.
Where: Oregon Culinary Institute, 1701 SW Jefferson St.
How Much: $25 PCA members, $30 non-members. For more information and to reserve a spot, visit the Portland Culinary Alliance website. Reservations must be made by Thursday, February 9th.

Vegetarian Dinner at Beast
What: The next round of meat-free feasting at Northeast’s hottest little eatery is scheduled, and the menu is set to feature crispy yellow beets and chervil, truffled goat cheese raviolo, white bean tartlettes, citrus cream cake and more. These dinners sell out fast, so make your reservations ASAP.
When: Tuesday, February 21st; Seatings at 6 and 8:45 pm.
Where: Beast 5425 Northeast 30th Avenue
How Much: $100 per person (including all food and wine pairings). For reservations, call 503-841-6968.

Momokawa Saké Supper Club at Wildwood
What: First in a series of Oregon craft saké pairing dinners, featuring sips from SakéOne in Forest Grove and nibbles from . Each chef was told to avoid the typical Asian fare and get inspired with new flavor combinations, so Chef Dustin Clark of Wildwood will pair these local sips with his hyper-local Northwest Cuisine. The next dinners in the series will feature dishes from Andina and Saucebox.
When: Friday, February 24 at 7 pm.
Where: Wildwood Restaurant 1221 NW 21st Ave; 503-248-9663
How Much: $55 per person, including food and saké.

The Reign of Spain: An Evening of Tapas at Kenny & Zuke’s
What: The ninth annual Spanish tapas dinner at Downtown deli Kenny & Zuke’s, featuring more than fourteen traditional family-style small plates washed down with pomegranate Sangria.
When: Sunday, February 26, seatings at 4:30 and 7:15
Where: Kenny & Zuke’s 1038 Southwest Stark Street
How Much: $42.50 per person, including food and sangria, $35.50 food only, $19.75 kids under 12. For reservations, call the restaurant at 503-222-3354.

Portland Food Adventure at Gilt Club, with Lardo
What: Next up in the popular Chef’s Choice dinner series from Portland Food Adventures, an interactive multi-course meal with chefs Chris Carriker of NW Broadway’s Gilt Club and Rick Gencarelli of crave-worthy cart Lardo. Diners will enjoy the decadent eateries’ signature flavors and chat with the chefs about their favorite Portland restaurants and bars.
When: Wednesday, February 29 at 6:30 pm.
Where: Gilt Club 306 NW Broadway
How Much: $125 per person, including dinner, cocktails & wine, tip, and gift certificates to some of the two chefs’ favorite Portland places. For reservations, head to the PFA website.

Patton Valley Vineyards Winemaker Dinner at Bluehour
What: A five-course pairing menu. Winemaker Derek Einberger and Chef Thomas Boyce will be on hand to discuss the dishes, wines, and more. Courses are set to include smoked trout with caviar, seared Maine diver scallops (paired with 2009 Wente Clone Chardonnay), Striped Bass with blood sausage (paired with 2009 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir), Sudan Farms Lamb two ways (paired with 2009 Lorna Marie Pinot Noir), and much more.
When: Saturday, February 11 at 6:30 pm.
Where: Bluehour’s Private Dining Room:
How Much: $100 per person including food and wine. Gratuity not included. For reservations, call 503-226-3394.

Know about a great event coming up that should be on our radar? Shoot me an email at ajones@portlandmonthlymag.com or give me a shout over on Twitter at @allisonejones. Now get out there and start eating!

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Dragonfish Closing, Reopening as Tasting East

Downtown restaurant shutters briefly to rebrand as Asian-inspired “street plates” restaurant across from Directors Park.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 02, 2012 at 01:00PM 1 Comments

A fish by any other name: Dragonfish Restaurant in the Paramount Hotel has closed its doors at 909 SW Park Avenue. The space is currently being transformed into Asian fusion eatery Tasting East Restaurant, set to open late February.

According to Tasting East’s manager Andrew Tinling (who was also the bar manager at Dragonfish), the eatery’s new menu will offer small plates inspired by the street cuisines of China, Japan, Taiwan, Thailand, India and Vietnam.

The bar will offer sho-chu, soju, and Portland’s largest selection Asian beers. TE:bar is now open, and will be open while the full-service restaurant is remodeled.

Dragonfish, which opened in 2001, was an offshoot of Seattle’s Dragonfish Asian Cafe.

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Service Shake-Ups

A few Portland favorites are mixing up their menus, including the debut of dinner service at Bijou Cafe and Chef’s Choice tasting menus at Castagna—with daily vegetarian options.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 02, 2012 at 11:00AM 0 Comments

Bijou Does Dinner: Popular downtown dining destination Bijou Café will add Friday dinner service starting this week, February 3rd (132 SW 3rd Ave). According to Chef Josh Lorenzen, doors will open at 6, dinner will be offered from 6:30 on, and each week will feature the musical stylings of live jazz musicians from the Pacific Northwest.

An early look at the new menu reveals tastes like pan-seared steelhead with broccolini and garnet yams, braised lamb shanks with apricot pistachio couscous, linguine with clams and Italian sausage, and a pastrami sandwich with house-made sauerkraut and gruyere. A varied selection of snacks and small plates will also be available for those stopping in for the music, including curried butternut squash soup, warm black kale salad with hazelnuts, local cheese plate, and mussels with andouille and fennel.

Paragon Rolls Out Sunday Brunch: Pearl District eatery Paragon will debut brunch service on Sunday, February 19 from 10 am to 2 pm (1309 NW Hoyt at 13th). The Sunday menu will feature brunch classics like pork belly hash, eggs benedict, buttermilk flapjacks and a Portland take on huevos rancheros.

On the liquid side of things, look forward to a Bacon Bloody Mary and the Wake Up Call, with Amaretto di Saronno, Tia Maria, Stumptown Coffee and fresh whipped cream. For the kick-off weekend, brunch will be offered Sunday and Monday (Presidents’ Day, February 20th), and proceeds will benefit Blanchet House.

Castagna Debuts Tasting Menus: Choosing items off the menu at Castagna used to require a leap of faith, due to the difficulty of capturing the restaurant’s exquisite dishes in typical appetizer, entree, and dessert descriptions. With the debut of Castagna’s new daily tasting menu only service, diners will be able to enjoy Chef Justin Woodward’s culinary creations without being stymied by the choice between “winter squash hot and cold with wild char roe, nasturtium, mustard and arugula” and “cauliflower in various textures with oyster and oyster leaf”.

Castagna will now offer frequently-shifting chef’s choice menus of five ($65) or ten ($95) courses, including a daily vegetarian five-course option (ten-course veg meal available with 24 hours notice). Each dish featured on the new tasting menus will be paired with a wine selection from sommelier Jack Hott for an additional fee, and dishes will also be available a la carte (a perfect intro for first-time diners).

Chef Woodward has long been a champion of the farmers and foragers that deliver the best of the country to his kitchen, and his avant garde take on Northwest Cuisine truly highlights the best of Oregon’s fresh-picked bounty. With the new freedom of the chef’s choice menus, Woodward will have even more room to experiment.

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The Ice Cream Collective

Salt & Straw teams up with five Portland restaurants to churn out their own unique flavors.

Posted by: Benjamin Tepler on Feb 01, 2012 at 12:55PM 1 Comments

Photo: Benjamin Tepler

Patrick Fleming (left) and Tyler Malek (right) concoct their kaffir lime and lemongrass ice cream

The lights dim at Boke Bowl, post lunch rush, leaving only chef Patrick Fleming and his new kitchen collaborator, Salt & Straw ice cream ace, Tyler Malek. The pair dangles a viscous amber spoonful of their experimental “ fish sauce caramel” over a scoop of lemongrass and kaffir lime ice cream, topped with a confetti of bright Korean chili flakes. “Yup, it’s awesome,” they say in unison, licking the spoon clean.

A mishmash of ice cream and Southeast Asian ingredients sounds nuts, but the flavor combinations are shockingly good. If all goes well, the first batch should come together in early April to coincide with the opening of Salt & Straw’s new outpost on NW 23rd and Kearny. Owners and ice cream fanatics Kim and Tyler Malek are planning a series of five chef collaborations, and Boke Bowl is the first. Chefs dream up the ideas, Salt & Straw churns them into a reality.

This project represents the best of Portland’s community food scene: a symbiotic gathering of culinary artists coming together for the sake of delicious food.

Photo: Benjamin Tepler

A thick spoonful of fish sauce caramel.

Some of Portland’s hottest talents have already signed up. In the works: A sake ice cream with house made yuzu marmalade from Bamboo Sushi; a toasted coconut ice cream with sesame toffee and boysenberry-ginger jam from Aviary; and a “Foie S’mores” with roasted cocoa nib ice cream covered in a veal chocolate sauce and hazelnut graham cracker crumble from Greg Denton’s upcoming Ox.

Each distinct flavor will run for six weeks at Salt & Straw, as well as on the dessert menu at the collaborating restaurant, with all proceeds going to a charity of the chef’s choice. More dates and details to come as the project unfolds. With fish sauce ice cream already a reality, and a veal chocolate sauce in the making, the sky’s the limit.

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6 Local Sweets for Your Sweetheart

Our tasty picks for sugar-powered Valentines’ Day gifts made with love, right here in Portland.

Posted by: Allison Jones on Feb 01, 2012 at 10:00AM 11 Comments

Somewhere along the line, desserts and candies earned the peerless reputation for being romantic, sexy, and made with love. Maybe you’re more of a passionate pork belly lover, or have been known to swoon over a bottle of fine wine, but at the end of the day most folks think of sweet decadence when they think of culinary love. Here are some fool-proof picks for showing your love via Portland’s best candies, cakes, and cookies this Valentines’ Day.

1. Two Grand Central Bakery’s Shortbread Linzer Hearts for $2.65 (Available February 3 to 14)

Each of these buttery, heart-shaped shortbread cookies from Grand Central Bakery are filled with Glenmore Farms raspberry jam and dusted with powdered sugar. Or maybe you’re the almost-DIY type who’s short on time—pick up some of Grand Central’s U-Bake chocolate chip cookie dough or puff pastry to whip up your own goodies without the prep work.

2. Pix Patisserie’s French-Inspired Specials, $2.25-$8.75 (Available now through February 14)

This petite patisserie is serving up a dose of Parisian l’amour in sugar form, like their Truffle Heart (a caramel almond truffle and cinnamon macaron hidden in a heart of chocolate mousse), St. Honoré for St. Valentine (puff pastry with raspberry pastry cream, chocolate covered pop rocks, crème chantilly, rose macarons, and fresh raspberries), and heart-shaped versions of their crave-worthy macarons. In addition to their Valentines’ Day treats, one chocolate gift box at each Pix locations will feature a pair of real diamond earrings hidden amongst the candies!

3. Petunia’s Gluten Free and Vegan White Chocolate Raspberry Passion Tartlette for Two, $8 (Order online by February 8)

This decadent dessert combines a coconut macaroon cookie crust with white chocolate raspberry mousse and tangy passionfruit curd. The tartlette is finished with fresh berries for even more color and sweetness. Petunia’s online owner and chef Lisa Clark is also hosting a Valentine’s Day baking class on Sunday, February 12th. For $50 (if you reserve a spot by this Sunday), Clark will help you make White Chocolate Raspberry Passionfruit Tarts, Chocolate Strawberry Sweetheart Cupcakes, and Triple Chocolate Ecstasy Cupcakes.

4. Two Fresh Chocolate-Dipped Strawberries from Elephant’s Deli for $3 (Available February 13 & 14)

It doesn’t get more classic than two juicy strawberries dipped in smooth chocolate (to be hand-fed to each other, naturally). For a full fine dining experience at home without the work, the deli also has a full Valentines’ Menu to seduce your sweetheart. Order online or stop into Elephant’s Deli to reserve your desserts today.

5. Five Decadent (and Guilt-Free) Truffles from Missionary Chocolates for $15 (Available Anytime)

These chocolate truffles just took home the Best in Show and People’s Choice trophies at last week’s Chocolates For Choice event, and they also happen to be vegan. Yes, Missionary Chocolates are made by a naturopathic doctor to be as healthy as chocolates can be, but they’re also some of the best chocolates in town. For your sweetie, pick up a five-piece box packed with flavors like Meyer Lemon Explosion, Vanilla Salted Caramel, Trailhead Espresso, Dark Chocolate Delight, and Spicy Cinnamon Chipotle.

6. Gold-leaf icons from Alma Chocolates, starting at $15 (Available Anytime)

These stunning treats are inspired by items of religious reverence so you can show your darling you worship them. Made from solid single-origin dark chocolate and hand gilded with 23k edible gold leaf, Alma’s edible icons highlight the true value of sweets this time of year. Choose between sacred hearts, flaming hearts, amor hearts, or even anatomical hearts for the more literal-minded lover. Alma is also a one-stop shop for truffles, handmade candies, and ooey-gooey salted caramel sauce. That caramel can be spread on anything… but we’ll leave that one up to your imagination.

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