Somewhere on Sandy
A Wooden Chicken mystery
I’ve lived in Portland for 15 years so I like to pretend that I know my way around. And when it comes to downtown and most Southeast locales, I’m on solid footing. But I’m inexplicably drawn to the hinterlands, those little pockets of Portland and the outlying areas that resolutely continue to hock a loogie at any earnest effort to become more cosmopolitan. Perhaps due to my own hayseed upbringing (a shout out to all my Coos Bay homies!), I can easily morph into small-town mode when I find myself away from the urban center. I just put on a ball cap, keep my eyes on the floor, and make sure every third word is a profanity. Picture a Transformer that reconfigures itself from a Lexus to a riding mower.
I was way out Sandy Boulevard in the Parkrose ‘hood the other night with a fellow nightlife ne’er-do-well, looking for someplace to quaff a brew or two when we stumbled across a neon sign that hooked us like a pair of thirsty rainbow trout.
“What the hell’s the Wooden Chicken?” I asked Lucy. Since she’s lived here a few years longer than myself, I figured she knew all about it. She merely shrugged. We pulled over so I could get a picture of the sign, but we weren’t sure what to do next. Finally this bit of infallible logic won her over.
“C’mon! If you see a sign for a place called the Wooden Chicken, you damn well better go in,” I argued. So we did.
I was expecting a little squatter’s shack populated with barefoot guys called Zeke, Abner, and Rufus, tending a Rube Goldberg moonshine device, but the Wooden Chicken is a tidily rustic and spacious sports bar with a dozen or so screens tuned to the NASCAR network and 75¢ tacos on Tuesdays. And then there’s the beer taps.
The dominating decorating motif here is a cornucopia of beer taps (sadly not connected to kegs) on every imaginable inch of wall space. Oh, there’s also a bar stool bearing Greg Biffle’s autograph. Ask your Uncle Red who he is.
“Wow, how many taps are there on these walls?” I wondered aloud.
“The last time we counted there were 2,137,” replied the bartender. “But there are always more coming in.” That was the first of two burning questions answered. The other?
“I really don’t know where the Wooden Chicken name came from,” he said, placing a pint of domestic lager in front of me. “We took over the place in 1984, and it was the Wooden Chicken then.”
OK, historically minded drinking buddies, help me out. What is the origin of the Wooden Chicken name? I’ll settle for interesting made-up stories.
Yes, this is a competition and two winners will receive a valuable prize from me, the Bar Pilot: one winner for the actual origin story, and one for the most compelling fabrication. Go!
Tags: Places to Go



This is an easy one. Many years ago, the Wooden Chicken went by a different name (one that has been lost to history). The owner at the time was an eccentric gentleman who fancied himself a small-time rancher/farmer. In a small plot behind the bar, he kept a vegetable garden. He also amassed a small collection of livestock: a sickly cow, a couple of belligerent goats, and some chickens.
Though the animals were a source of bemusement to many of the bar’s patrons, the owner took his hobby very seriously, and in fact felt a strong emotional bond with his animals, particularly (for reasons that are, again, awash in the sands of time) the chickens. He talked to them, often more verbosely than he would to many of his human companions, and would frequently let them into the bar to stroll around.
It was on one such occasion that tragedy struck. A particularly drunk patron was sitting at the bar, feeling surly and angry at life (as many patrons of the pre-WC establishment often did). The man looked down and saw a chicken pecking idly at the floor by his bar stool. In one fluid (well, OK, it was probably pretty jerky) motion, he climbed off his stool, picked the chicken up with one hand, and flung it full-force into the wall.
There are still those who marvel at how that man made it out of the bar with his hide intact (stories of the owner chasing him with a shotgun abound). The owner, of course, was devastated. To everyone’s amazement, the impact had not killed the chicken. It had badly wounded her, however, leaving her without the use of either of her legs.
Now, the popular version of the story has it that the owner amputated the now-useless limbs and replaced them with crude wooden legs. This is, of course, folly; the veterinarian annals contain no records of hen prosthetics. In point of fact, the owner fashioned tiny wooden splints, in the hopes that the chicken would eventually recover and regain the use of its limbs. Of course, such was not to be the case. After an agonizing day and a half, the regal bird succumbed to her injuries. It was not long thereafter that the owner renamed his establishment in honor of his brave and beloved fowl.
I’m impressed! I didn’t think my readers had so much free time.
The name is an ode to the tradition of Southern Fried Chicken, a term coined in 1925. However, the Scots introduced this now famous staple to our country brothers and sisters in the 1800s—minus the herbs and spices we’ve come to expect today. Folks on American soil perfected the recipe we’ve all come to expect from the likes of Wooden Chicken, Paula Dean, and other culinary contemporaries. To this day, there are odes to the famous staple, including the most recent number one country western hit by Zac Brown Band, simply titled “Chicken Fried.”
While the Wooden Chicken wasn’t momma’s cookin’—it’s as close as a good ol’ boy named Merl Chagrin from Alabama could hope for in these parts. Plus, it was the one item that sold the best. Rocky mountain oysters never took off, much to Chagrin’s disappointment. As the original structure was a wooden shack, the restaurant was dubbed the Wooden Chicken.
Further, it was a fine living Chagrin could be proud of. He put his children through school, and managed to afford the medical to finally quit using chewing tobacco. The only evidence from his former habit is a Skoal ring in the back pocket of many of his Levis. An important detail, as many of his early customers got a bit of the noxious weed as seasoning in their chicken.
Today, old man Chagrin is retired and his daughter Emmylou runs the joint. It’s rumored she has plans to try to bring back daddy’s rocky mountain oysters, now that Portlanders’ culinary palettes have expanded. Apparently this will also include a new family sauce they hope to patent.
You didn’t say what the prizes are
Ah, JC! I haves me some fond memories of The Wooden Chicken from my Portland days (circa ‘89-’94); it was a quite a meat market back then. Not sure where the name originates, but its blue-collar charm and pool tables remind me of the watering holes in our hometown. ‘Think I’ll slip on down to the oasis. Oh, I’ve got friends…’
Actually it is a bit of a misspelling.
In the early days of Portland, the seamen would bring shanghai’d workers from the Orient to build the great Western railroad lines. Thus, the appearance of many ‘China Town’s’ up and down the west coast.
Along with the workers came the forbidden spice – opium (also known as the ‘Wu’)
Illicit ‘Wu Dens’ operated sketchily under the radar, paying off local authorities and plying the sailors, prostitutes and junkies of the underground with their devilish poison.
It was an old man saved from a life of vice and corruption, when one of these infamous dens was raided, near NE Halsey and 116th. Neighbors found the man (Later known as old Mr. Arnold) and took him in, only to later discover his mastery of the cuisine of the far east.
One dish in particular was everyone’s favorite . Mr. Arnold’s plum pepper chicken.
Some even said the secret was opium itself in the batter!
The dish was so successful, he was finally forced to open a restaurant.
The “Wu Den Chicken” was a local favorite for decades (also serving many a Jewish family on Christmas Eve)
Mr. Arnold died in the late 50s and the restaurant sat empty. It was a returning veteran from Vietnam who wanted a place to hang with his biker pals who eventually bought the place – renaming it the ‘Wooden’ chicken, in order to rid itself of any Asian reference due to his memories of the war.
Friends carved a giant wooden bird that sat out front for years, until animal activists hell bent on tying their cause to fighting the timber industry set fire to the bird on fire in the 90s, burning it to the ground.
And that’s how it became what we know today as the Wooden Chicken!
In 1942, Anton Pfister returned from the war with a vision. Culled from his late, lonely nights spent bounding around the catering kitchens of Paris, Pfister saw the master chefs use cedar planks that gave a smoky flavor to their array of seafood dishes, such as Nice trout and Brussels Mussels. Why not poultry? Or so Pfister asked his commanding officer shortly before his honorable discharge (he’d lost both of his ring fingers in a cigarette-rolling mishap).
His first attempts at cooking filleted chicken on wood tasted like aspirin, but Pfister soon perfected the skill, once feeding a reunion of Asa Lovejoy’s offspring and earning praise from the Oregon Journal for his tarragon-based sauce. It made sense to open a restaurant.
He tried many names. Walking the Plank. Planks A Lot. You’ve Been Planked. Chickenshitz. Nothing worked. Until he found it, the perfect moniker for his artful cuisine: Damn Plankees.
Of course, that name was really stupid and the food actually did taste like chickenshitz and Greg Biffle’s dad bought the place in 1983, ceased using the planks and renamed it Wooden Chicken.
Well I’ll be. . .and here all this time I thought the name was simply a redundant penis joke. Yet again, I’ve underestimated the long history and rich culture of Parkrose. I stand before you humbled.
Sadly, no one came up with the real origin story, but I can’t complain about the quality fiction this post inspired. I’ve consulted with my fellow web department drones, and we like the offerings of X and DK the best thus far. You will be notified about your prizes. I’ll give you my personal note for 90 days. If you haven’t received your prize by then you can keep the note.