BAR PILOT

2011 in Review

In which we praise recent developments.

Posted by: John Chandler on Jan 04, 2012 at 11:00AM 8 Comments

A beautiful sight: A quintet of quality tacos from Robo Taco.

It’s as inevitable as the dust that gathers around the new treadmill gifted to you by your significant other. You didn’t honestly think that you’d escape early January without one of those pesky year-end lists from Team Bar Pilot, did you? Well, perish the thought, because we’re about to sashay down memory lane with some of the drinks, eats, trends, and bars that, in my opinion, did things right in 2011.

Best Happy Hour: Gold Dust Meridian. For those of us concerned with making the best use of our time while assigned to duty on this here planet, Gold Dust Meridian’s extremely generous happy hour (from 2-8 daily) is reason for a ticker-tape tango. You certainly owe it to yourself to unwind with a smoky Meridian Manhattan (Rittenhouse Rye, Peychauds bitters, brandied cherries, $8) and the Trio, a crusty grilled-cheese sandwich, tomato soup, and salad for a measly six bucks.

Best Cheap Eats: Robo Taco. I never, ever thought I would get carnitas (braised pork) tacos that were superior to those provided by taco wagon Lindo Michoacan at SE Division and 33rd. Robo Taco, a recently opened taqueria on SE Morrison, has accomplished this feat. With their diabolically deceptive heat, crispy finish, and depth of spice, these $2 tacos are best ordered by the dozen. The posole, a rich pork and hominy soup, is like the Mexican version of pho, a hearty bowl of steaming comfort that blossoms in flavor with the addition of house hot sauces. Bonus! It’s open till 3:30 in the morning on weekends! I envy anyone who’s yet to explore the Robo Taco menu.

Most Welcome New Cocktail Bar: Rum Club. The seriously high level of skill and craft present in top-notch tropical refreshers like the Serpent & the Rainbow (Bacardi 8 &
Flor de Caña Rum, pineapple syrup, apricot, and lime) and the downright delightful Ti’ Punch (J.M. Blanc Rhum, turbinado sugar, and lime) makes this cozy little joint a required stop, one that’s a bit more accessible than the thatch-heavy Disneyland that is Trader Vic’s.

Most Welcome New Beer Bar: Bazi Bierbrasserie. Sorry, I’m showing some favoritism for my ’hood on this one. Co-owners Eric Bottero and Hilda Stevens have not only been knocking it out of the park with genuine hospitality, hustle, and some 17 taps dedicated to Belgian-style beers, but their innovative beer cocktails like the Hepburn (Stoli Vanilla, Grand Marnier, Delirium Nocturnum, orange bitters, and a splash of champagne, served up) are not to be missed. And the French fries are rapturously crunchy twigs of salty joy.

Best cocktail: The barrel-aged Negroni at Clyde Common. Ordinarily, a Negroni is just a shade too bitter for my tastes, but aging the ingredients (gin, Cinzano sweet vermouth, Campari, orange peel) in Tuthilltown whiskey barrels for a couple of months works wonders, sculpting the sharp edges of the Campari into something altogether more expansive and glorious. I had several intriguing mixed drinks this year, but I returned to this one on several occasions, and I’m glad that I did.

In conclusion, it does my heart good to see a spirit of fearless exploration so present and pervasive in Portland—whether it’s beer cocktails, the aging spirits, or those stunningly sour beers, our preponderance of good press is proof that tastemakers throughout the nation look to us for inspiration. Your turn, drinking buddies: Let me know if you experienced any breakthrough moments with drinks, food, happy hours, service, atmosphere during the previous 12 months. I need to know these things!

Add a Comment »

Tags: Happy Hour, Belgian Beer, Bazi Bierbrasserie, Robo Taco, Rum Club, Gold Dust Meridian, Clyde Common, Best of 2011

Holiday Grab Bag

Support local craft and literature

Posted by: John Chandler on Dec 16, 2011 at 10:00AM 1 Comments

Here at the Portland Monthly compound we’re giddy with anticipation for this afternoon’s annual Christmas soiree, in which gifts will be exchanged (damn you to hell, whoever got me the Chia Pet last year!), food will be gluttonously shoveled, and many, many cocktails will be swilled, leading to all kinds of confessions, curses, and drunken slips of the tongue. Fortunately, we’re all friends here. Mostly.

As we gird ourselves for the final days before being overtaken by an orgy of consumerism wrapped in festive paper, I’d like to point out that the late, lamented, Guild Public House is reopening today under new ownership. As reported by Willamette Week, Eater PDX, and others, the intrepid trio of Justin Akins (from Vintage Cocktail Lounge), Kenny Hill of Trebol, and beer lover Daniel Roy, appear to be gung-ho on emphasizing local spirits and beers, which is always music to my ears. And, according to their Twitter feed, they will have pinball. That’s tight.

Still looking for stocking stuffer ideas? Allow me to recommend a couple from right here in Rose City. I’ve sang her praises before, but it bears repeating. Anyone interested in the subject of Happy Hour in this town should definitely be armed with Cindy Anderson’s exhaustively researched Happy Hour Guidebook 2012 edition. It contains up-to-the-moment crucial information on nearly 500 Portland venues offering Happy Hour deals, as well as some money-saving coupons that should take some of the sting out of your Happy Hour sticker shock. I treasure my copy, and you should do the same.

For the crafty fans of craft beers, local artiste Mindy Humphrey has created Mindy’s Beer Gear, an awesome collection of wallets, bags, and colorful accessories amazingly assembled from recycled beer labels, six packs, and other materials. And yes, she will do custom orders. If anyone wants to stuff something supercool in my stocking (that sounds bad, doesn’t it?) I could really go for a BridgePort Kingpin wallet. Preferably with a $50 bill in it. Jingle bells, everybody!

Add a Comment »

Tags: Happy Hour, christmas, Guild Public House, Happy Hour Guidebook, Cindy Anderson, Mindy's Beer Gear

Happy Hour: Swift Lounge

It’s dark, low-key, and drinks come in jars

Posted by: John Chandler on Nov 04, 2011 at 11:00AM 3 Comments

What: The Swift Lounge

Where: 1932 NE Broadway (former home of Colosso)

When: Jolly Hour is 4-8 Mon-Sat and all day Sun. Selected eats $2-5. Selected drinks $3-6.

Why: For an unpretentious, odd, and genuinely cozy hole-in-the-wall look no further. The black and red decor is cheerfully brooding, the music is none-too-loud, and the regulars are friendly. (One of them boldly started a conversation with me! And it wasn’t a horrifying ideal!)

They have their own way of doing things at Swift Lounge. You will have to adjust to the quirkiness of the house. The surprisingly large menu is a hoot; cocktails are listed as “Dranks” and the word “fer” is used in place of the needlessly formal “for”. Oh, and Happy Hour is called “Jolly” Hour. The cheap chow ranges from the usual suspects (sliders, fries, mac & cheese) to foreign intrigues (kimchi and brown rice, $2! Luke’s Bowl—Cuban beans, brown rice, pulled pork—$5!). I had the sliders (2 for $5) and found them juicy and delicious, with the sweet pickle slice giving it extra bite. The fries were crispy ($2 for a small bowl) and a tad greasy, but nothing we couldn’t handle. I didn’t see it on the menu, but somehow my friends were served a big pile of cauliflower. How strange.

Obviously the bartender has a sweet tooth. The Malus Manhattan comes with apple cider-infused whiskey and a graham cracker-coated rim. I ordered the “Seasonal Jar” which turned out to be pumpkin-infused vodka, homemade apple cider, ginger syrup, and bourbon whipped cream. My teeth cried out in pain, but my taste buds were too busy dancing the cha-cha-cha to care. There are a half-dozen drinks in jars listed under the heading “Masons.” My friend Lucy ordered the Kentucky Blackbird (a mason jar of Old Crow, peach syrup, peach bitters, and mint, $8) and announced to the table that this was the only drink she’d have to order for the whole afternoon. There are also five cocktails that use beer as an ingredient and they have a decent selection of Belgian beers and ciders. I know! Weird, right?

The Pumpkin Pie and the Kentucky Blackbird

As it turns out, the thing I like most about Swift Lounge is its brazen eccentricity, a fierce individualism wielded like a scimitar in a world of cookie-cutter conformity. It’s not a spot that will please everybody (it’s divey, but clean) but for the born iconoclast, it could be your tribal watering hole.

Add a Comment »

Tags: Happy Hour, Northeast, Swift Lounge

Bazi is Boss!

Come for the beer—stay for all the rest

Posted by: John Chandler on Aug 18, 2011 at 01:00PM 2 Comments

The Bosteels Quak, served in its own signature glass.

The value of a reliable neighborhood drinking establishment cannot be overstated. With Belgian beer bar Bazi Bierbrasserie (1522 SE 32nd Ave) only a couple blocks from my house, my outlook on life has improved tremendously. Perhaps it’s the Cheers factor: a cozy watering hole staffed by amiable folks. When I’m sitting at a sidewalk table casually sipping a malty, nourishing Delerium Tremens Ale, the weather always seems ideal, with just a suggestion of a breeze tousling my locks.

Could be it’s the head-spinning selection of Belgian beers —of the 17 rotating taps available, roughly 15 are dedicated to wild yeasty, complex ales brewed in Old World fashion. Most are imports (Duchesse de Bourgogne, Bosteels, Sint Canarus, to name a few), but a handful of regional breweries like Upright, Oakshire, and Double Mountain routinely appear. And if for some strange reason Belgians aren’t your cup of tea, the helpful servers are knowledgeable enough to guide you to something in your comfort zone.

Certainly the excellence of Bazi’s happy hour, which stretches leisurely between 3 pm and 7 pm daily, plays a significant role in my adoration. The specials include a $5 cocktail, usually something potent and tropical, along the lines of a blood orange mojito, or pepper-infused marguerita. Speaking of which, it would be perfectly understandable at such a bastion of beer if the cocktails were merely phoned in, but that is definitely not the case here. Johnny the bartender is as consistent as sundown in his mixological prowess and the Schipperke—Cruzan rum, blood orange, fresh lemon juice, and splash of simple syrup, served up—has become my girlfriend’s go-to drink. (And she’s ultra-picky!) In an effort to bridge the beverage gap, Bazi also boasts a dynamite beer cocktail, the Jeanneke, a Belgian beer-infused elixir that combines a tripel style beer, Monopolowa vodka, Aperol and Demerara simple syrup. It’s a real corker, as the fruit notes from the ale blend seamlessly with the apricot liqueur, resulting in a very robust refresher. The majority of the cocktails fall into the $7-8 range.

Stoemp of the day—pureed potatoes, green apples, bacon, and gruyere.

The happy hour menu has plenty of choice chow, such as the GAB burger ($6), an efficiently sized and thoroughly filling patty of beef from Highland Oaks Farm near Salem, topped with an egg. Normally, I don’t cotton to having yolk splashed all over my kisser, but here the egg works as a hearty binder for the juicy burger, and the flavors dance delightfully. There’s also a daily Stoemp special for $5, based on the traditional Belgian dish of pureed mash potatoes and an assortment of cheese and vegetables. On my last visit, the special featured potatoes, green apple slices, and gruyere. I should mention that paying the extra three $3 for bacon, ham, or sausage is money well spent. It’s an avalanche of tastes and textures that still manages to annihilate the pesky hunger pangs.

And then there are the frites (you know, French fries) which I count as being among the best in town. The Flemish frites ($2.50) are blanched and tossed with sea salt. They’re small and cooked to a severe crunch, but retain a delicate spudfulness (new word, write it down) especially when plopped into the silky house-made mayonnaise. (I prefer the invigorating curry variety.) The truffle frites are a little more expensive, but they’re earthier and more fragrant. Even the humble olive plate (marinated in garlic! Yum! $2) offers a superb alliance of flavors.

Frites to die for.

Never fear drinking buddies, I will continue to fearlessly patronize bars, taverns, pubs, and dives from Alberta Street to Wanker’s Corner, but I’ll tell you this: I sleep better at night knowing that my frites and beer needs are so brilliantly met, and so close to home.

Add a Comment »

Tags: Southeast Portland, Happy Hour, Cheap Eats, Belgian Beer, Bazi Bierbrasserie

Happy Hour: Oswego Grill

A confluence of comfort and style

Posted by: Chelsea Fitch on Jul 11, 2011 at 10:00AM 2 Comments

Photo: Chelsea Fitch

Growing up around these parts has taught me two crucial survival skills: (1) Never expect (or accept) an average meal and (2) not drinking local is a sin against the Portland brewery gods. If I can get through a happy hour with at least one of these skills, I am often still pleased—and such is the case with Oswego Grill, a posh pit stop south of Portland just off I-5 (3-6 pm & 9 pm-close).

Walking in the door, the old-world, dark wood appointments and obsessively polished bar and tables made my jeans and bright yellow top stick out like a tie-dye T-shirt among the business suits, pearls, and sweater sets, but the staff didn’t think twice about this fashion faux pas and seated us promptly with non-phony smiles. (No walking in and plopping down at any table here, even in the bar.)

At first glance the down-home menu was surprising for such a swanky watering hole. With comfort food options and fresh summery drinks, I was definitely put off guard at this oxymoron, they were calling happy hour. My first stab at the menu was the mac & cheese, and at $2.95, it was a steal. The baked dish had a shocking spicy pepper kick yet maintained a creamy, buttery, thick sauce making it more of a "grown-up mac & cheese” that I instantly devoured despite my tendency to want to hold my fork with my pinky extended high in the air.

Photo: Chelsea Fitch

Pork tenderloin sliders and fries, a sweet deal at $2.95.

My friends went the more seasonal bbq route ordering the Pork Tenderloin Sliders ($2.95, and they come with fries!) and mozzarella wedges ($2.95), which were deftly described by my companions as "a tangy wonderland of summer.” Looking around I saw nothing but joy and gusto on the faces of office drones lustily shoveling down elegantly prepared chicken nachos ($3.95), chicken and cheese quesadillas ($2.95), and fish tacos ($2.95). The menu, a cunning blend of comfort food with a splash of gourmet, definitely fit my “I’m pretending to be a suit and tie but honestly I couldn’t care less” budget.

While the homey food passed my first survival skill, the brew selection fell short. Pints of beer are a $1 off during Happy Hour, but don’t get your hopes up for a wide selection of local tastes. They offer Widmer Hefeweizen and a Ninkasi IPA on rotating tap, but with a hometown handle like Oswego Grill, I would have expected a stronger regional selection.

Where the grill lacks in locals, the cocktails shined forth in the dark, mood-lit bar. The consensus favorites of the afternoon were the Blueberry Drop ($7.50) and the passion fruit mojito ($8), both with made fresh fruit and a judicious layering of lemon. Sadly, the Very Berry Lemonade ($6), a seemingly can’t-miss summer refresher, was sorely lacking in the bright-flavor department. My advice? Stick to the fresh-fruit house-made cocktails for a bracing beverage.

Photo: Chelsea Fitch

The blueberry drop in a chilled glass, $7.50.

Even though I felt like “Annie Get Your Gun” among financial execs and proper ladies, the Oswego Grill is a great happy hour for when you’re in the mood to spoil yourself with comfort food gussied up with stylish accents. I’m in no danger of becoming a regular—the bill can add up fairly quickly and I’d have to pilfer my grandmother’s broach and a cardigan—but it’s a solid and serviceable happy hour nonetheless.

Add a Comment »

Tags: Lake Oswego & West Linn, Happy Hour, Cocktails, Cheap Eats

News, News, News

Too much going on for one Bar Pilot!

Posted by: John Chandler on Jul 08, 2011 at 10:00AM 1 Comments

I knew it was going to be one of those days when I bent over to get a drink of water from a Benson Bubbler—only to discover that some miserable wretch had just hurled into it. Talk about a rude awakening. Anyway, on with the news!

ITEM: Drinking Buddy For Life Jen Lane of BarFly fame will be hosting one of her free-floating pop-up Happy Hours today at the Slammer Tavern (500 SE Eighth Ave) from 5-8. That in itself is reason to make an immediate reservation, but the real cherry on the sundae is an appearance by none other than Frank Furter and the Hot Dogs! Mr. Furter is without a doubt the finest troubadour that performs in a hot dog costume in the entire Northwest. So haul your buns over there, you weenie! There will be drink specials and (can this be right?) FREE HOT DOGS!

ITEM: Next weekend marks the return of Portland’s annual tropical drink wingding Tiki Kon. For those desperately in need of some suave saucing opportunities, this little island-hop can’t be beat. On Thursday July 14, there’s a tiki-inspired fashion show at Tony Starlight’s Supperclub (3728 NE Sandy Blvd) starting at 8 PM. On Friday the 15th, the faithful will gather at Ella Street Social Club (714 SW 20th Place) for a surfin’ safari with righteous rock ensembles Guantanamo Baywatch, Surf Weasels, and Wave Sauce! And the Big Kahuna bash, the Tabu Extravaganza, will put a stopper in the bottle on Saturday the 16th at the Kenton Masonic Lodge (8130 N. Denver Ave). This sophisticated soiree will include exotic foodstuffs, vintage vendors of all sorts, and the musical stylings of Sneaky Tiki and the Lava Lounge Orchestra! Good lord people! What more could you possibly want?

ITEM: Hurray for Oregon Craft Beer Month! The Cans Fest is this Saturday at the Guild Public House from noon till 10 PM. And next weekend boasts the Portland International Beer Fest at the North Park Blocks, which is quickly followed by Puckerfest V, a celebration of sour beers at Belmont Station (12-14 rotating taps daily) that runs from Monday July 18 through Sunday July 24, a lovely preamble to the Oregon Brewers Festival.

ITEM: Speaking of the OBF, the July issue of Portland Monthly includes a dandy little insert called Passport to Beervana, a cool contest that invites local brew fans to patronize at least five brew pubs in order to collect “stamps” for their “passports.” Once your passport is fully stamped, you must drop it off at the Information booth at the Oregon Brewers Festival in order to be eligible for a grand prize drawing that’s truly grand. The winning passport will get round-trip tickets to the Great American Beer Fest in Denver (Sept 29-Oct 1). For you cheapskates that, for one reason or another, are unable to buy a copy of the July issue, you can download your own Passport to Beervana here. Remember, you can’t win if you don’t enter. Drinkers, start your engines!

Add a Comment »

Tags: Happy Hour, Beer Festivals, Tiki Bars, Oregon Craft Beer Month, BarFly Magazine

London Calling

It’s a new bar in an old space

Posted by: John Chandler on Jun 17, 2011 at 02:00PM 2 Comments

In a few hours (Hurry up, Mr. Clock!) I’ll be rambling over to the opening party for the new Jack London Bar, located in the basement of the Rialto Pool Hall, formerly an adjunct of the bar’s Off Track Betting parlor. From 5-8 today Jen Lane of BarFly magazine fame will be hosting her weekly “pop-up” happy hour, T.G.I. BarFly at the JLB, which will include succulent samples from the Jack London menu, a “meat cake” from culinary sorceress Kristina Von Kroug’s Meat á la Mode enterprise, drink specials, raffles, and the lush audio stylings of record-spinner extraordinaire DJ Drew Groove.

As for the near future, the basement bar with the literary handle will be hosting the delightful DJ Meow (aka Ms. Lane) on Sunday, ShanRock Trivia on Monday, a PDX History night with Portland State professor Carl Abbott on Tuesday, and jazz singer Lily Wilde every other Wednesday. Oh yes, and non-dbag dancing is very much a part of the plan, as Bar Pilot drinking buddy DJ Gregarious will share his eclectic tastes in tunes every Friday night. Live comedy will also be part of the weekly culture mix.

For recent arrivals, the bar is named after the Jack London Hotel, a previous identity of the upstairs Hotel Alder, a low-income housing residence run by Central City Concern. Stay tuned and I’ll have a more detailed report next week after I get smashed and make a complete jackass out of myself (or as I call it, “the christening”) this evening.

Add a Comment »

Tags: Happy Hour, New Bar

First Impressions: Bazi Bierbrasserie

It’s a full-on Belgian bistro just off Hawthorne

Posted by: John Chandler on Jun 01, 2011 at 11:00AM 9 Comments

Frites and a Belgian brew at Bazi Bierbrasserie.

Finally I have a “local” to call my own. A scant few blocks from my humble abode stands Bazi Bierbrasserie, a new Belgian-themed bar that resides in the former Magnolia Cafe locale. I’ve been twice in the last two days and I can reliably report the following:

• Happy Hour is generous indeed, stretching from 3-7 pm. The GAB burger at $6 is a HH bargain, made from Highland Oaks Farm beef and cooked to order—with an egg on top.

• There are 17 taps of Belgian-style brews including the seriously fabulous Duchess de Bourgogne and a scintillating berry-forward wit from Corvallis’s Flat Tail Brewing.

• The frites are delicate, delicious, and served with a curry mayonnaise that fires tiny needles of pleasure throughout the mouth.

• Head bartender Johnny, who used to mix at Nuestra Cocina, is a skilled artisan whose pepper-infused margaritas have won my girlfriend’s heart.

• The croque madame is an expansive pile of applewood smoked ham, gruyere, zesty dijon mustard, house-made mayonnaise, and grilled brioche, that will easily conquer most run-of-the-mill attacks of hunger.

• I will be back like the Terminator.

Add a Comment »

Tags: Southeast Portland, Happy Hour, New Bar, Belgian Beer, Bazi Bierbrasserie

Happy Hour of the Week

It’s another tequila funrise at Acapulco’s Gold

Posted by: Philip Gaudette on May 02, 2011 at 12:00PM 1 Comments

Tequila and I don’t mix. I‘ve always shied from those salt-rimmed and wonderfully colored margaritas, instead choosing to nurse a cold brew or a simple gin and tonic. Is it fear of the unknown and underappreciated that muddles my mood for tequila, or could it be the hallucinatory flashes I have of taking a shot of José Cuervo, only to wake up on a chigger-infested couch on a curb in Tijuana, wearing nothing but a sombrero?

Whatever the case may be, I made it my goal to muster some courage when I stomped into Acapulco’s Gold (2610 NW Vaughn Street). Named after an infamously potent strain of cannabis (John Lennon and Robert Plant were apparently big fans), the bar resembles a fading Mexican fiesta; bright ketchup and mustard colored flames lick up the walls behind devilish portraits of pin-up girls and Corona bottle-shaped piñatas. Video poker machines glow and pop with noise, and the counter features a rockabilly Day of the Dead aesthetic.

Happy Hour (3-6pm) at Acapulco’s Gold deserves a mariachi band in its honor: the prices aren’t far from what you might find in Mexico. Little convincing was needed to saddle me up with a pint of Bud ($1.50) and a handful of Tex-Mex snacks ($2-4). Besides the complimentary chips and salsa (which are dandy), I chomped on a small but hearty cup of chili ($3.50) and a sizzling beef taco ($3.25). Next time I’ll try the alluring beer-battered halibut taco ($4.25), which is served on a soft corn tortilla with mango salsa, cabbage and rice. If tequila and Bud don’t suit your fancy, well drinks are a very reasonable $2.75 a pop. Feeling adventurous, I flung myself into the tequila menu, a two-page roundup of over thirty bottles of 100 percent agave hooch. Seeing my brow on permanent furrow, the bartender recommended the Milagro Reposado ($7), a milky white elixir I cautiously sipped with salt and lime. It was surprisingly smooth and fortifying especially accompanied by a nice, bland lager and some zippy salsa. Take note, my fellow tequila-phobes.

The menu had traditional fare, with burgers and salads to boot, but I wanted to give their veggie quesadilla ($7) a shot. Served with crackling fajita-style vegetables, the cheesy goodness sank in perfectly with the house margarita ($4), a steal impossible to ignore. Sprinkled with salt and oozing a soft jade color, I could almost imagine the clouds parting as I quaffed this sweet, molten concoction.

By the end, I was abuzz with a warm belly. I left Acapulco’s Gold feeling a little rejuvenated, the jubilant Mexican atmosphere having sparked a little sunshine in my brain (and my stomach); I was ready to take on the pouring rain and ride out the rest of the day in post-margarita bliss. When summer finally rolls around, I’ll be adding a bottle of tequila to my home bar. The sombrero, however, will remain in the closet.

Add a Comment »

Tags: Northwest Portland, Happy Hour, Mexican Food, Acapulco's Gold

Happy Hour of the Week

More than beer at Burnside

Posted by: Philip Gaudette on Mar 29, 2011 at 11:00AM 4 Comments

Everywhere I look nowadays there’s a new pub or beer bar: Breakside, Apex, Migration, Coalition, Plew’s Brews, etc. You’d think Portland would burst at the seams, spilling hoppy run-off into the Willamette. Yet somehow we soak up all this beer and never hit a saturation point. Are we spoiled? Burnside Brewing Co., the latest venture by Jason McAdam (Roots Organic Brewing), wants us to think we are. With a locally based array of artisan cured meats and pickled snacks, we’re talking about a food menu that’s several culinary rungs above beer nuts and rubbery wings. Oh, and the beer’s pretty good too.

Located at Seventh and East Burnside, the first thing I noticed about Burnside Brewing was that I never noticed anything before. What I mean by that is, I’ve been up and down this block a gajillion times, and I’ve never, not ever, glanced at this location. Maybe it’s the giant Timbers billboard on the adjoining building that always caught my eye, but I was surprised to see Burnside Brewing right there, across from Rontoms, Le Pigeon, and Farm. It’s odd that from the street this new brew venue bears a striking resemblance to a Verizon dealership. It’s a tricky juxtapose, because the inside features a high, fir-beamed, Nostrana-esque ceiling paired with clean, new wave industrial design, all of which seems properly trendy for a Portland pub.

Kitschy abstract art hung on the walls, and a giant blackboard surrounded by driftwood from the Willamette proudly announced the specials throughout the week. Other than that the space is pretty bare, and I caught myself thinking more than once that it seemed like an Ikea template: new, but not lived in. But the enormous handmade black walnut bar, combined with the strains of “Ziggy Stardust” bopping over the speakers, quickly won us over.

Happy Hour at Burnside Brewing occurs during the not-all-that happy hours of 3-6 pm. Even so, the bar was jamming, and when we sat down our server immediately poured four generous samples of Burnside house brews, a welcome orientation to newbie clients and a smart way to sell their drafts. The main draw for Happy Hour is the 20 oz imperial pints, which go for a sweet $3.50 ($3 all day on Wednesday). This is a glass of beer with some serious heft, one that encourages thoughtful consumption. Or you could spice things up with a glass of wine for $5 (a bottle is $18), but if you take a look around, chances are you’ll notice everyone at the bar drinking the same thing: Burnside Brewing’s Sweet Heat. This li’l number is a wheat beer brewed with over 200 pounds of apricots, then dry-hopped with imported Jamaican Scotch Bonnet peppers. At first gulp I was unimpressed; despite everyone at the bar slurping happily, I found it more akin to an apricot soda gone flat. But wait! An alluring aftertaste developed, a soft ping of spice at the back of my throat, and the next thing I knew I was eagerly draining my pint for its refreshing kick. You will want to drink Sweet Heat all summer. And unlike Pyramid’s Apricot Ale (and despite the name) this isn’t an annoyingly cloying quaff—think pale ale with a hint of fruitiness. Since the eight people next to me were all drinking it, I felt somewhat beer-pressured. Now I count myself as an apricot believer.

My friend James stuck with the reliable Burnside IPA, and I had the Stock Ale next, a rather tasty year-round pleaser in the ESB family. Some bars relish having dozens of beers on tap, with menus that require a table of contents, but all I really need are the basics: IPA, ESB, stout, a pilsner or wheat, and I’m good to go. And that’s pretty much what we have here (with more on the way), in addition to some guest taps.

The Brat Burger

I wasn’t feeling too hungry, but an open kitchen does wonders for an appetite; we watched with glazed eyes as piles of fresh fries wafted over tender pork sliders and smoky grilled cheddar sandwiches, while two cooks assembled a variety of carnivorous snacks. My first beer came coupled with the Brat Burger ($6), a formidable mound of meat slathered with kraut and Dijon on a pretzel roll. The roll was a nice touch, but the thin slice allowed my burger to fall apart halfway through. James ordered the spicy pickled pork slider ($5), which maintained its structural integrity, but drew mixed reviews from us due to the pool of cold sauce it came soaking in. Was it to counteract the potent burn of the pork? We remained undecided, but the spice lingered in our bellies for some time.

We finished up with the humble pickle platter ($4), a zesty medley of beets, beans, and cucumber slices that really delivered a kick. We actually fought over who got the last green bean (we diplomatically cut it in half, but it was totally mine). Thankfully no one was hurt.

When it comes down to it, the fatty pints give this place an edge. I measured almost no head on both beers, so rest assured you’re getting the most out of that $3.50 (hey, some of us are on a budget—the little things matter). They’ve got some respectable beers here that are well worth checking out. The chow was intriguing, if a bit inconsistent, but since Burnside Brewing has only been open for a few months, these nitpicks can slide. In the meantime, I’ll be back on Wednesday for the $3 imperial pints.

Add a Comment »

Tags: Happy Hour, Cheap Eats, Burnside Brewing

Happy Hour of the Week

Night Light does it right

Posted by: John Chandler on Mar 22, 2011 at 11:00AM 5 Comments

Till I’m blue in the face I’ve said it. The success or failure of a Happy Hour depends mostly on the little things—the willingness of the staff to put out (don’t—just don’t) and make it a special occasion every time Joe Bohemian and Sally Thriftstore-Waife sashay through the door. Congratulations to the Night Light Lounge on SE Clinton, ‘cause you thoroughly understand the concept of Happy Hour, which explains why you’re always packed to the gills. And for venues who are having trouble getting butts in the seats during the after-work exodus, I suggest you take notes.

First of all, the hours are generous. From 2-7 Monday-Friday and 11 pm – 1 am Thursday-Sunday you can get special prices on food, beer—and wine. This is good news for oenophiles. My more elegant companions are frequently in a lather over having to pay full price for a glass of vino during Happy Hour whilst the rest of us are contentedly lapping up cheap beers. Anyway, the duration of Happy Hour here is such that you aren’t under insane pressure to immediately decide on snacks and swill. Even if you’re a clever little bug and order a whole bunch of food at once, chances are it will be cold, gooey, and hideous by the time you’re ready for another round. On a non-HH note, the Night Light hosts a reasonably priced brunch every Saturday and Sunday between 10-2.

Night Light offers 50 cents off wells, $1.50 PBRs, $3.50 micros, $4 for a 20-oz Guinness, and $1 off all wine by the glass. Like I said, generous.

Speaking of which, there are also five seating options to accommodate parties of all shapes and sizes, including a bustling main room with a couple of comfy couch pods; seats at the bar if you want to keep the bartender in sight at all times; a smaller back room for a dab of privacy; a rustic smoking deck; and a half-dozen sidewalk four-tops for those who listened to their mothers and brought along sweaters.

On the food front, it’s basic but bountiful. The nachos ($4) get a thumbs-up thanks to the fresh-made tortilla chips, which serve as yummy and durable corn saucers bearing payloads of beans and cheese to your waiting gob. The quesadilla ($3) is serviceable but really receives a boost from a splash of chipotle tomatillo salsa adding some zest to the three cheeses on parade. You certainly can’t go wrong with a hearty grilled cheese sammy and a cup of tomato soup for $5, especially if there’s a chill in the air and you didn’t listen to Mom and bring a sweater. Instant warmth. And while they aren’t offered at a discount, the Oregon Buffalo Slider ($4) with dried figs, bleu cheese, tomato, fried onions, and Mexican chocolate au jus is a required course for aficionados of the small-burger movement; when cheese and chocolate connect it’s like Romeo and Juliet, baby. Except you eat them.

Cocktail connoisseurs will have plenty of possibilities to ponder from the $7 signature cocktails menu. I normally have little patience for gimmicky drinks (unless you’re buying), but the Pineapple Habañero Cosmo is hard to resist with its mix of fire and fruit. The Jamaican Mule, served in a tall glass with ginger-infused Deco rum, is another can’t-miss choice. The Stumptown Nudge combines Godiva chocolate, kahlua, brandy, and Stumptown coffee. It must be fairly tasty; the gal one booth over was making Meg Ryan orgasm sounds with every sip.

Considering that the Night Light has a fiercely loyal neighborhood following who seem to be present around the clock, it’s also amazing that the waitstaff is so fast and friendly. The Night Light is a tight ship, from the bartenders to waitresses, everyone is on the same page. And finally, a personal observation. The folks at BarFly mag are correct: the clientele is quite attractive.

Add a Comment »

Tags: Happy Hour, Cheap Eats, Southeast

Happy Hour Report

Underwhelmed at Breken Kitchen

Posted by: Jonathan S Banasky on Mar 08, 2011 at 03:00PM 0 Comments

The name has changed but they’re still cooking and pouring up a storm. Breken Kitchen, formerly Sydney’s, is a comfy coffee house situated at the foot of the Fremont Bridge on the northernmost fringe of the Pearl District. What you’ll find inside isn’t a whole lot different from the dozens of other java joints scattered throughout Portland—high ceilings, wood floors, brick walls spotted with unremarkable art, a few pods with newspaper-strewn sofas, and the thick-brimmed glasses of customers peering out from behind steaming mugs and clattering laptops.

Needless to say, this isn’t an atmosphere that screams Happy Hour excitement, but I was in the neighborhood and feeling a bit peckish—so what the heck?

Breakfast and lunch are peak hours here as paper shufflers from surrounding hives fuel up with bagels, fancy-pants sandwiches (like Roasted Portabella and Onion Panini with Juniper Grove Goat Cheese and Parsley Pesto, $8.95), soups, salads, and other reasonably light/healthy fare, while partaking of a sizable selection of stimulating hot bevvies (coffee, tea, chai).

In an effort to keep a few customers lingering during the slower afternoon hours, Breken Kitchen also does Happy Hour Wed-Fri from 3-5.

Hunger can be treated with lasagna ($7), bread and olive oil ($2), soup of the day ($3.50 for a cup of potato or pork pozole), and salad ($3). There are decent beers to be had (Lagunitas, Guinness, Black Butte Porter, and Chimay) but the only beer special was 50 cents off a PBR tall boy, which was not something I was in the mood for while flying solo at 4 in the afternoon. According to their website, there are four whites and three reds on the HH menu that range from $4-8 but it was all full price during my visit. Guess they thought I looked gullible. Speaking of the website, most of the prices listed on its Happy Hour menu are completely wrong. Sorry, we must deduct points for that.

I came with an appetite, so I ordered the lasagna along with a salad. The latter wasn’t particularly exciting—some mixed greens tossed with a vinaigrette, but at least there was plenty of it. The lasagna arrived as a hefty square about the size of CD cover, layered with hunks of ground beef and onion slices, topped with a generous coat of marinara. Solid and serviceable but Pazzo’s needn’t worry about the competition. Note to management: It’s really a bit of a stretch to refer to lasagna, green salad, and a PBR as Happy Hour. Maybe “Other Food Hour?”

To summarize: If you’re looking for a Happy Hour in the traditional sense (i.e. a lively lounge to meet for beers and wings after work or get your night started by downing as many drinks as possible before they raise the price), this is not the place to do it. Breken Kitchen is a laid-back neighborhood nosh pit for the cubicle crowd or parents picking their kids up from the neighboring Montessori school. There’s nothing here that warrants a special trip. If you do decide to venture forth, don’t forget to pack your laptop; your profile ain’t going to update itself.

Add a Comment »

Tags: Happy Hour, Breken Kitchen, Pabst Blue Ribbon