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Behind Bars

New Bars in Town

Whether it’s umbrella drinks or an underground vibe you’ll find a stool.

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So many new bars, so little time. In order to properly guide you to your next watering hole we sent out the “street team” (i.e., intern Max Gelber) to gather some intelligence on a quintet of new Portland joints. And that was the last we saw of him. Seriously, if anyone knows of Max’s whereabouts, please clean him up and stuff him in a cab. Sigh. Good help is so hard to find.

The minds behind Dig A Pony (736 SE Grand Ave.) are trying their best to make a name for themselves by sticking with classic themes, and a “classy but not classist” motto. Taking over the space that formerly housed Niki’s Diner on the corner of SE Grand and Morrison, the dingy old carpets were soon jettisoned and the hardwood floor was restored to its original glory. The food will focus on classic American comfort stylings with a regional bent and will shift seasonally, due to the owners heavy focus on sourcing their food locally as much as possible. Prices will range between $5-$10. The local sourcing mind set is also present in the beverages, with local beers on taps rotating both seasonally and with the changing preferences of the customers. House-infused liquors will be a big focus, with the possibilities of extras like house-made bitters to come. Drinks will float under the $8 price tag, with drafts at about $4.

Nestled in the quiet Sellwood ’hood is the newly opened Portland U-Brew (6237 SE Milwaukie Ave). One part home brew store, one part watering hole, and one part training ground for beginning brewers, P.U.B is the brainchild of Jason Webb, who got his start at the now-defunct Saxer Brewing as a brewer and cellar man, and amateur home brewer Aaron Gillham. Housed in a two-story building, the second floor contains a fully fortified beer and wine supply store and a NW/British influenced bar with eight rotating beers on tap and a wide bottle selection of beers and ciders. The first floor houses a brewing area with six 20 gallon kettles that P.U.B will use to brew their own specialties, as well as renting out to locals to come in and use for their own concoctions. Webb and Gillham also will host beginner brewing classes every Saturday ($35, 10 percent off for couples), teaching everything about the science of beer to the brewing process itself. And after a 2 to 3 week fermentation process, students will be able to keg or bottle their new frothy inventions on site.

Once the home for one of Portland’s rare off-track-betting establishments, the Rialto Poolroom transformed its basement space into the Jack London Bar (529 SW 4th Ave). Out with the old betting parlor, in with a dimly lit space that gives off the vibe of a subterranean Portland dive (except much cleaner and with functional toilets). If you’re itching to find a new place to dust off your dancing shoes, the space includes a healthy amount of open hardwood space just screaming to be danced all over, paired with at long list of dance nights and revolving DJs (including DJ Gregarious on Fridays) with an emphasis on vintage vinyl. If that’s not your bag, the bar has some comfy looking couches and lounge chairs generously sprinkled around the space. Comedy showcases every first Thursday are also on the docket. Tuesdays will feature presentations by historian Doug Kenck-Crispin, the man behind the website Kick-Ass Oregon History (orhistory.com). And mustachioed man-about-town Sean McDonald (a.k.a., Seantos) will be in the house on last Thursday for Seantos Showdown, which he describes as “a little bit variety, a little bit talk, and a whole lot of awesome.”

And just as summer has finally chosen to grace our city with its presence, two bars (one newly inspired, the other an old friend returning home) are keeping the rum flowing with tiki-inspired concoctions. The folks in charge of Beaker & Flask recently soft-opened their new sister bar Rum Club (720 SE Sandy; rumclubpdx.com) to the public, while the Tiki behemoth Trader Vics (1203 NW Glisan; tradervicspdx.com) will reopen to the Portland faithful August 1 with an overflowing menu of over 80 tiki drinks. Even if we only have a few months to drink cocktails with tiny umbrellas without feeling too ridiculous, we’ll take it.

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Tags: Beer, Rum, Trader Vic's, New Bar

Beer Bulletin

Cheap, Cheap, Cheap

Premium lager at Walgreen’s?

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Yes, I’m drinking at work again.

I was browsing at the Walgreen’s on 21st and W Burnside looking for sweat socks (Mother’s Day is coming!) when I bumped into a display for Big Flats, a lager that retails for a ridiculous $2.99 a six pack. Hell, that’s 1982 pricing! I am nothing if not diligent, so I went outside and panhandled for a bit and soon had enough coin to make a purchase.

Big Flats is a contract beer sold exclusively at Walgreen’s, and it’s churned out by the Genesee Brewing Company of Rochester, New York, which apparently has been doing business in one form or another since 1878. It’s brewed under the corporate aegis of Winery Exchange, “the leading corporate brand beer supplier for premium quality beers from the USA, Latin America, and Holland.” They also provide custom libations for Costco and Trader Joe’s.

Beer Advocate lists Big Flats as an American Adjunct Lager, which means it’s mass-marketed, light on malts, extra carbonated, and contains adjunct grains, such as rice and corn, which are used as filler in the brewing process to cut costs. In other words, it’s Yankee cheap swill. It weighs in at 4.5 percent alcohol.

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But at $2.99 for a sixer, how good does it really have to be? I chilled my Big Flats for a few hours and took it for a spin. It’s a light gold in the glass and it foams up and settles down in about two minutes. It’s lacking anything resembling a malty backbone, but has a not-unpleasant corny sweetness. I could drink about 14 of these things on a hot day (if I was between paychecks), hence the term “lawn mower beer.” I’ll go along with Beer Advocate’s analysis, which awarded Big Flats a grade of “C.” I’ve had worse beers—not exactly a ringing endorsement.

I do think, however, that hitching the word “Flats” to your beer is a colossal mistake. The Winery Exchange website claims the name “pays homage to the flat boats that traveled the area’s rivers delivering goods to early settlers.” That’s fine, I love history as much as the next gink, but it still creates an unfavorable association in the mind of the consumer. How about $2.99 Lager instead?

My recommendation is to pick up a half case if you’re going to a barbecue at someone’s house that you don’t know very well and aren’t particularly interested in cultivating as a friend. What do you think drinking buddies? Can you think of an occasion when a fine $3 lager would come in handy?

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Tags: Beer, Cheap, Big Flats Lager

Beer Bulletin

Crack A Cold One!

Beer Can Appreciation Day

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It was on this day in 1935 that New Jersey’s Gottfried Krueger Brewing Company put beer in a can—for the very first time! And thus was born Beer Can Appreciation Day. Though I’m normally a relentless cheerleader for our regional craft beer community, for today I’ll grant you a special dispensation to schlep down to the market and pick up a sixer of cans.

Conventional brew wisdom holds that beer in a bottle tastes better than beer in a can, though cans outsell bottles. How do you account for this? Also, please share your favorite beer in a can brand with me and the rest of the drinking buddies. I’ve always been partial to Rainier in the can, myself.

Now let’s enjoy a little holiday music!

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Tags: Beer, Beck

Mixology 101

The Beer Fashioned

Too much of a good thing?

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Today’s topic is the Beer Fashioned. What say ye drinking buddies? Thumbs up? Thumbs down?

I myself am insanely curious, so I’m going to drop some science and whip up one of these bad boys and report back tomorrow. This could be the summer drink we’ve all been waiting for! And if I call in sick to work, we’ll know the experiment was a rousing success.

The Beer Fashioned from Claire Thomas on Vimeo.

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Tags: Beer, Recipes, Cocktails, Bourbon

Mother of Inventions

Robots and Frozen Treats

A few ideas for keeping your cool

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Beerbot

Come to me, my mechanical manservant.

According to the weather forecast (which has never been wrong, ever!) the next few days are going to exceed the 90-degree mark. And because I care, so much, I surfed the web for some possible alcohol-induced methods for remaining cool, calm, and contentedly buzzed. As we all know, the secret to remaining sweat free is to conserve your energy and stay hydrated.

1. The Hopsicle Hey! You kids! Stay out of my freezer!

Pro: Refreshing, icy beer goodness.
Con: You’ll probably cut off a finger.

2. The Bottle Opener A bottle opener? On a shirt? The future is here!

Pro: A frosty beer need never again remain cruelly trapped in its oppressive bottle, a tantalizing distance from your parched mouth.
Con: Dorky looking and the opener will likely come off in the wash.

3. Beerbot Beer Pouring Robot Yes! Yes! Yes!

Pro: It keeps your beer cool and opens it for you! If they could make one that looked like Christina Hendricks, I’d declare my undying love for this divine technology. (Heh, heh, just kidding baby.)
Con: It doesn’t have wheels to follow you around—yet. Also, it only holds 6 12-ounce cans. What about the 40s? What about the 22s?

If they could make one the size of Christina Hendricks (with wheels!) it could probably hold a dang pony keg! By the way, if you’re still trying to decide what to get me for Christmas …

And if you, my dear drinking buddies, have some brilliant booze-inspired ideas, please share right here and now.

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Tags: Beer, Good Ideas

Mark your calendar

Drinking Days Ahead

Beer, gin, rum, and more beer

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Yep, the major beer festivals are behind us, but fear not! There’s still plenty of opportunity to get your drink on and behave like a jackass this month.

Tomorrow (August 5) is International Beer Day. The video below explains this holiday’s mysterious origins. (Mild language)

Coincidentally, tomorrow is also the Hop & Vine’s two-year anniversary. How fortuitous! From 3 till closing, this butt-kicking little bistro will have live music, wine and cocktail specials, bangers and mash, and at least two extra-awesome beers available: Breakside Brewing’s Gator Boots Gose and Upright’s Old Barrel-Aged Apricot ale. And if all that fails to motivate you, be advised there will be cupcakes. Should be a blast. Owner and photogenic bartender Yetta Vorobik knows how to throw a party.

Still haven’t had enough carousing with your fellow brew believer? Then Saturday’s Fremont Fest Pub Crawl has your name on it. Between noon and 4 PM, you can plunk down $10 for a tasting mug and five tokens ($1 for additional tokens) that will buy you some craft beer samples from Double Mountain, Hopworks, Alameda Brewing, Upright, and Laurelwood at various stops along NE Fremont between 40th and 50th Avenue.

I confess that thanks to Food Network shows like Chopped and Iron Chef, I’ve become fairly obsessed with culinary competition. Like-minded nosh nerds will want to plop themselves on a stool at Couture Ultra Lounge next Monday night (August 9) at 8 for Bombay Sapphire’s Most Inspired Bartender challenge, where an A-list of local mixologists will brandish their swizzle sticks. The winner will represent Portland in the finals of this event being held in Las Vegas at the end of the month. Among the esteemed participants are Ricky Gomez from Teardrop Lounge; Urban Farmer’s Lance Mayhew; Mark Joseph from El Gaucho; and 50 Plates bartender JP Pierce, who tells me he’ll be preparing an Oregon Crusta (a traditional New Orleans cocktail), with gin and a fresh strawberry puree.

And finally, Monday, August 16 is National Rum Day. So go someplace and drink some rum. What, I have to plan everything? Try a little spontaneity for once in your life!

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Tags: Beer, Bar Culture, Gin, Rum, bar, bars

Happy Hour

Happy Hour of the Week

Duck into Ducketts

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Photo: John Chandler

This must be the place.

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This must be the place.

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Words to live by.

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The obligatory interior shot.

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The sun is starting to set on the patio crowd at Ducketts.

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Let me tell you about our specials.

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My perfectly serviceable quesadilla.

View Slideshow » Photo: John Chandler

Two-man band Ardis Udder, part of the evening’s entertainment.

My band had a show last night at a North Portland venue that I was unfamiliar with called Ducketts Public House. Believe it or not, their Happy Hour lasts from 4 till 9 pm Monday-Friday so I was able to get in on the tail end of it. This report has less to do with the specific deals ($2 well drinks, 50¢ off drafts—pretty standard really, as Dr Evil would say) and more to do with the place itself, a clubby little punk-rock sports bar that hasn’t really found a regular crowd yet. IMHO, this works to its advantage; a bar should be a place where everyone feels welcome and as I kept an eye on the broad cross-section of humanity ambling in and out the front door my heart warmed to this little neighborhood dive. Either that, or I forgot my Prilosec when I ordered the chili cheese fries ($5.95).

Ducketts, situated within spitting distance of PCC on N Killingsworth, is a snug and clamorous hive (three TVs, pinball, video crack, live music starting at 9:30), that fortunately empties out into an equally cozy patio that feels like one of those postage stamp-sized parcels affixed to a condominium for your (minimalist) barbecue and entertaining needs. Rather than feeling uncomfortably close to that table full of baseball capped college students simultaneously yammering away about how much LeBron sucks, you feel inclined toward good will and bonhomie. After all, this is somebody’s party, you’re all invited, so belly up and relax. Clustered in various convo pods nearby were boisterous Latinos, a black dude on his cell, peroxide punks, skaters, a few nervous squares, and one old hippie with an open shirt who seemed incredulous and offended that my band wasn’t going to be playing anything by the Doors.

Oh, and there’s a ping pong table if you feel up to it. Had to conserve my energy for playing the bass last night, otherwise I would have happily thrashed the house.

At the moment, owner Dustin Berkholtz is the only staff in sight, and he’s remarkably efficient. Bartender, server, cook, busboy, and restroom supply guy all rolled into one, he still manages to perform all these duties in a timely manner, never leaving a customer hanging at any of his stations. I appreciate hustle, and Berkholtz seems to be a relentless dervish of task handiness. Gotta hand it to him.

There are craft beers on tap (Ninkasi, Rogue, Sierra Nevada, Lagunitas), but they feel out of place here. Instead, $5 pitchers of PBR and Rainier (one of my favorite blue-collar brews; sturdy and reliable) flow like Type O from a freshly nipped jugular on True Blood. Eeew! Sorry, I didn’t get much sleep last night.

There are menu curiosities I didn’t get a chance to sample (steak and baked potato, $9; mac ‘n’ cheese bites $4; bowl o’ chili $3.50; jello shots $1) but I can report that the quesadilla ($5; $6 for chicken), the service, and the prices were all a-ok. Tall boys of Tecate for $2? Here’s a twenty. Keep ’em coming.

Ducketts is still a nebulous entity, a nascent hangout waiting for that one clique to claim it and plant their flag. Frankly, I hope none of them does. You’ll never learn anything drinking with the same ol’ slobs. No offense, drinking buddies.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Beer, Cheap Eats, Live

Happy Hour

Happy Hour of the Week

Victory’s victuals? Very, very good.

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The dusky atmosphere at Victory Bar suits me. Under the room’s sepia-toned low light, everything takes on a more mysterious caste. The music is in the background where it belongs and the efficient waitstaff come and go on kitty feet. The art of conversation is actually a thing within reach.

This may not be a big deal to most of you, but as someone who’s played bass in decibels-be-damned rock bands for 30 years, the relaxed volume at the Victory is a gift bordering on the princely. It’s a revelation that not a word of artful banter is wasted on my wooden ears. I’ve already ranted and raved about bartenders who can’t live without their Neanderthal playlists blasting the rafters, so let’s just move on to more productive topics.

Between 5 and 7 daily, discriminating Happy Hour idlers can graze through Victory’s $5 food menu, sip $3 well drinks, and take a dollar off the voluminous wine and beer list. More specifically, one can inhale a terrific bowl of spaetzle, which is basically the superior German version of mac and cheese. Loaded with smoky gruyere cheese and topped with crispy shallots, the spaetzle presents adult diners with a devilish problem, namely, how in the world to work through a whole bowl of these gooey noodles without letting out an annoying “MMMMMM!” after each bite. A similar conundrum accompanies the ridiculously rich and pulse-slowing pot de creme.

It’s not on the cheap eats menu, but attention should be paid to the Venison Burger ($10) which one of my comrades described as tasting “like meat used to taste.” Presumably he’s referring to the robust flavor that comes from a creature that’s enjoyed a diet of good ol’ grass as opposed to an institutional regimen of corn and steroids.

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There are over 70 intriguing beers by the bottle—Belgium and Germany are well represented—and a rotating lineup of quality taps. There’s much to like beerwise at this SE Division getaway. We suggest you begin exploration immediately.

The two-dozen specialty cocktails are reasonably priced (nothing over $7) and just as generously poured. The cheeky tweaks on familiar names like the Ross Island Ice Tea (gin, rum, tequila, St. Germain elderflower liqueur, lemon, and loganberry syrup) and the Victory Martini (New Amsterdam gin, housemade cucumber vermouth, and garnished with a pickle) are mostly agreeable upgrades. Definitely take a dip into the Safe As Milk … Punch, a head-turning variation on a traditional New Orleans tipple. Your innards may not approve of this caloric confluence of bourbon, brandy, creme de cacao, orange curacao, vanilla, cream, and nutmeg, but your sense of well being will be through the roof. And you needn’t be concerned about the possibility of some influential citizen spying you with such a girlish glass of firewater—remember, the darkness is your friend.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Beer, Cheap Eats

Drinking & Dining

The Beer Belly Dinner

Dining event offers abundance of brews and foodstuffs

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Cheese
Photo: Emma Hall

Starter: Fraga Farms Goat Cheeses with flat bread, pickled pear and habañero almonds. Served with Cascade’s Spring Gose.

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Starter: Fraga Farms Goat Cheeses with flat bread, pickled pear and habañero almonds. Served with Cascade’s Spring Gose.

View Slideshow » Photo: Emma Hall

Appetizer: Chef Jeff’s Cold Smoked Salmon Canapes with Creme Fraiche and Dill. Served with 2009 The Vine.

View Slideshow » Photo: Emma Hall

Appetizer: beer-battered frog legs with caramel sauce. Served with Cascade’s Busta Nut Brown.

View Slideshow » Photo: Emma Hall

Entree: pan-seared rack of spring lamb from SuDan Farms with cherry demi-glace, quinoa tabouli and corn. Served with Cascade Kriek.

View Slideshow » Photo: Emma Hall

Dessert: Beer Belly cheesecake with stone fruit compote. Served with a 2009 Apricot Ale.

ON THE SECOND THURSDAY of each month, EastBurn plays host to the gastronomically challenging Beer Belly Dinner. Pairing a local brewery with the efforts of noteworthy chefs, it’s a four-course feast with accompanying beers for $35. The event is a smashing deal for the amount and quality of food—not to mention the sheer number of award-winning brews that are served—so much so that I almost reluctant to tell anyone about it. Plus, the proceeds all go to RideOn, a local nonprofit whose members will drive you and your car home anywhere in Portland proper for only $15. I admit that I placed one of their cards in my wallet—for a friend.

This month, the featured brewery was Cascade Brewing. Brewers Ron Gansberg and Curtis Bain were on hand to mingle and answer any questions, with Ron looking resplendent in his Hawaiian shirt embellished with hops, no less. Portland chefs Jeff Pagel and Joe Dougherty were also present to introduce each course and quell my fears about eating frog legs.

Cascade presented an amazing array of sour and fruit beers. For someone who only first tried sour beer a few weeks ago, I am now a true believer in these deliciously sweet, palate-cleansing beers.

Though the food and beers were out of this world, the best part of the Beer Belly Dinner is the company. You sit outside in EastBurn’s four-season patio at long tables, squashed in with an interesting array of folks: everyone from craft beer lovers to local beer celebrities. I was fortunate to be totally surrounded by good-natured beer lovers (including the Beer Goddess herself, Lisa Morrison), which made the event really fun and educational.

The starter course was assorted artisanal goat cheeses from Fraga Farm which paired perfectly with our first beer of the evening, the Spring Gose, a seasonal salty-sour ale with orange accents.

The first appetizer was Chef Jeff’s cold-smoked salmon rosettes, which were so tasty that when our waitress returned offering a tray of seconds, one-by-one our entire table snatched up them all up. The salmon was served with Cascade’s 2009 The Vine, a sour beer made with white chardonnay grapes.

The second appetizer was beer-battered frog legs swimming in a savory caramel sauce. “I’ve never had frog legs before-so I jumped all over it,” (har, har) explained brewer Curtis about his choice. I was also a frog-leg newbie, but the chefs insisted they tasted like a mix of halibut and chicken, which turned out to be an accurate description. Our table joked about the Schwarzenegger-sized legs as we scarfed them down, but I’m not sure I would eat them again if they weren’t covered in crispy beer batter. These were drizzled in a caramel sauce made from the paired beer, Busta Nut Brown. This malty beer was quite different from the sours, with its coffee-like aroma and dark-mahogany color.

The entrée was served buffet style, with plenty of extra helpings to go around. The main dish was pan-seared rack of lamb from SuDan Farm, which is available at the Portland Farmers Market. Vegetarians, avert your eyes: the chef proudly confided that the lamb had been slaughtered less that 24 hours before it hit our plates in all of its glory. The lamb was served with a cherry demi-glace that matched the accompanyin beer, 2009 Cascade Kriek, a fruity beer made from two different types of cherries.

Next up was the surprise taster that turned out to be the Noyeaux, an ale aged in white port barrels with 20 pounds of raspberries and toasted apricot pits. “In my opinion, it’s the one world-class beer we’ve made,” said brewer Ron. Though I would disagree about it being the only one, it was a true standout brew.

Finally, when we didn’t think we could fit any more food or beer in our swollen bellies, we were served white chocolate cheesecake served with a stone fruit compote, which of course paired perfectly with the 2009 Apricot Ale (A-ha! Thus the abundance of apricot pits that painstakingly were removed and used in the Noyeaux).

I’m not sure I could choose my favorite Cascade beer from the dinner, as The Vine, Noyeaux, and Kriek are now all very near and dear to my heart. I definitely recommend the Beer Belly Dinners for the vast array of food, top-notch beers, and terrific company. See you at the table!

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Tags: Beer, Slideshow, Portland Chefs, Craft Beers

Beer Bulletin

American Craft Beer Week

Just another excuse to chug a mug

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It could be argued that every week in Portland is craft beer week, but this week it’s official. Get yourself excited about toasting our mighty craft beer industry and then start wishing it was July (Oregon Craft Beer Month). Here are some local events to pour over:

Full Sail Brewing has come out with its own signature brew for the event, a German style weizen bock called the “Vendell Veizen.” You can belly up to the bar at the Harborside Pilsner Room if you’re craving a pint.

Lompoc Brewing will be pouring a special beer (read: tapping a limited-edition keg!) at each of their local pubs to celebrate the week. Today at Oaks Bottom, Wednesday at New Old Lompoc, Thursday at Fifth Quadrant and Friday/Saturday at Sidebar.

PDX Green Dragon is serving over 50 American craft beers this week, so head down to quaff a few and sign the Declaration of Beer Independence.

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Tags: Beer, Beer Festivals, Craft Beers

Happy Hour

Happy Hour of the Week

Bountiful beer at Widmer Gasthaus

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Photo: Emma Hall

Welcome to Widmer week. While tasting the new Widmer Braggot, at the brewery, I spied the Widmer Gasthaus across the street and figured it would be wise to stop in for Happy Hour. I asked one of the brewers, Doug Rehberg, what he recommended over there. “I go for the Hop Jack or Alt—usually anything with a lower alcohol content.” I guess that’s what happens when you’re up to your elbows in beer all day. Rehberg added that the pigs in a blanket were a must-try as well.

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Photo: Emma Hall

Good call on the piggies, Doug. The pigs in a blanket ($4.95) were awesome, mostly because they’re made with mini bacon sausages instead of the customary li’l smokies. These are lovingly swaddled in a flakey, buttery, um, blanket. And they pair wonderfully with a woody Widmer beer. However, I found the real standout snack to be the pretzel with fondue for only $2.50. (A plain pretzel is a dollar less but be sure to shell out that extra buck for the sensational Swiss fondue—I’m having a hunger flashback just thinking about it.) The fondue sausage sampler is another worthy option ($6.95) and the Bourbon Bock Cheeseburger ($5) looks like a real mouthful.

Pints during happy hour are $3-4, which is a major steal considering all the unique local beers you can dip your beak into. Of course, you can quaff a Widmer staple such as my personal favorite, the W ‘10 Pitch Black IPA. At 6.5 percent alcohol content, this burnt hoppy wonder is a yearlong special release that demands your attention. I first tried it at this year’s Zwickelmania gathering and haven’t looked back since.

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Photo: Emma Hall

However, if you’re looking for a beer that’s even more memorable, try the current Collaborator brew. Right now it’s a chocolaty malt number called Ale-X. The Collaborator Project is just one way that Rob and Kurt Widmer pay-it-forward from their own humble roots. Homebrewing club the Oregon Brew Crew (of which the brothers are long-standing members) has an annual brewing competition in which the best beer—regardless of style—gets brewed by Widmer and served at the Gasthaus.

The bar is housed in an old hotel, and they’ve kept this aesthetic but added a few modern, sporty touches. And since the crowd at Happy Hour include clusters of folks from 21-80+, it’s an ideal place to bring out-of-town guests to show off what Portland is really all about—namely beer.

The only less-than-happy aspect of the Widmer Gasthaus Happy Hour is the time: Monday-Friday from 2-5 PM. Yikes! But hey, isn’t tasty and affordable local beer a reason enough to sneak out of work early? I’m sure your boss won’t mind—just don’t tell him it was my idea.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Beer

Beer Bulletin

Prickly Will Go Quickly

Widmer’s Braggot Ale is a terrific tipple

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Photo: Emma Hall

Based on volume sales, Widmer Brothers Brewing Company is Portland’s top banana. Thankfully, resting on its laurels isn’t part of the game plan. The Widmers dropped their newest reserve release, Prickly Pear Braggot Ale (a strong follow-up to last fall’s Cherry Oak Doppelbock) at a brewery tasting event on Tuesday, and I was fortunate enough to be among the assembled sippers. Coming in at a cool 10 percent alcohol content, this sweet brew goes down easy—just make sure you have a designated driver or cab fare.

The brewers (Joe Casey, Ben Dobler, and Doug Rehberg) have a track record of experimenting with honey, so a braggot was agreed upon as the next logical step. As for the inclusion of the intimidating-sounding prickly pear, brewmaster Casey is from the Southwest. While he was browsing through a list of possible ingredients, the prickly pear juice jumped out as a natural choice to blend with the honey and make the proposed ale more complex. Though the braggot tastes mainly of the spicy-sweet—almost medicinal—honey from Montana, the prickly pear juice lends the brew an earthy bite that balances out the sweetness. The brewers discovered that, on its own, the prickly pear juice looked and tasted very vegetal, almost like V8. So they opted for a red prickly pear hoping that it would affect the color of the beer, and ended up with a glass of burnt orange beauty.

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Photo: Emma Hall

So just what is a “braggot” anyways? It’s half mead and half ale. Technically, a braggot should have at least 50 percent of its fermentable sugars come from honey. However, in order to make this a legal quaff, the Widmer crew had to get as close to 50 percent honey as possible without going over. In that case, the tasty brew would be considered a wine mixed with a beer, which isn’t legal.

Though they don’t pretend that the braggot will be every drinker’s cup of (alcoholic) tea, Rob and Kurt Widmer are well aware that discriminating beer fanciers appreciate their offbeat brews. With their own roots deep in home brewing, the brothers still enjoy playing mad scientist with exotic ingredients and recipes. And they sure had fun with this one: the brewers found themselves mired in two inches of honey during the mixing process. “It was sweaty, sticky fun—for about the first hour,” said brewer Ben Dobler. You can check out the process on YouTube.

Honey

And if you need another excuse to tip this lovely limited reserve, hear this: some studies show that prickly pear might even lessen the effects of a hangover. Rob and Kurt couldn’t confirm that their new brew was actually hangover-free, but they welcome any input from willing participants.

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You can score your own bottle at a local higher-end bottle shop like Belmont Station on SE Stark or John’s Market on SW Multnomah for $9.99. And if you really like it, stash a couple bottles away for a later date: mead notoriously lends itself well to age.

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Tags: Beer, Craft Beers

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