BAR PILOT

Happy Hour of the Week

It’s another tequila funrise at Acapulco’s Gold

Posted by: Philip Gaudette on May 02, 2011 at 12:00PM 1 Comments

Tequila and I don’t mix. I‘ve always shied from those salt-rimmed and wonderfully colored margaritas, instead choosing to nurse a cold brew or a simple gin and tonic. Is it fear of the unknown and underappreciated that muddles my mood for tequila, or could it be the hallucinatory flashes I have of taking a shot of José Cuervo, only to wake up on a chigger-infested couch on a curb in Tijuana, wearing nothing but a sombrero?

Whatever the case may be, I made it my goal to muster some courage when I stomped into Acapulco’s Gold (2610 NW Vaughn Street). Named after an infamously potent strain of cannabis (John Lennon and Robert Plant were apparently big fans), the bar resembles a fading Mexican fiesta; bright ketchup and mustard colored flames lick up the walls behind devilish portraits of pin-up girls and Corona bottle-shaped piñatas. Video poker machines glow and pop with noise, and the counter features a rockabilly Day of the Dead aesthetic.

Happy Hour (3-6pm) at Acapulco’s Gold deserves a mariachi band in its honor: the prices aren’t far from what you might find in Mexico. Little convincing was needed to saddle me up with a pint of Bud ($1.50) and a handful of Tex-Mex snacks ($2-4). Besides the complimentary chips and salsa (which are dandy), I chomped on a small but hearty cup of chili ($3.50) and a sizzling beef taco ($3.25). Next time I’ll try the alluring beer-battered halibut taco ($4.25), which is served on a soft corn tortilla with mango salsa, cabbage and rice. If tequila and Bud don’t suit your fancy, well drinks are a very reasonable $2.75 a pop. Feeling adventurous, I flung myself into the tequila menu, a two-page roundup of over thirty bottles of 100 percent agave hooch. Seeing my brow on permanent furrow, the bartender recommended the Milagro Reposado ($7), a milky white elixir I cautiously sipped with salt and lime. It was surprisingly smooth and fortifying especially accompanied by a nice, bland lager and some zippy salsa. Take note, my fellow tequila-phobes.

The menu had traditional fare, with burgers and salads to boot, but I wanted to give their veggie quesadilla ($7) a shot. Served with crackling fajita-style vegetables, the cheesy goodness sank in perfectly with the house margarita ($4), a steal impossible to ignore. Sprinkled with salt and oozing a soft jade color, I could almost imagine the clouds parting as I quaffed this sweet, molten concoction.

By the end, I was abuzz with a warm belly. I left Acapulco’s Gold feeling a little rejuvenated, the jubilant Mexican atmosphere having sparked a little sunshine in my brain (and my stomach); I was ready to take on the pouring rain and ride out the rest of the day in post-margarita bliss. When summer finally rolls around, I’ll be adding a bottle of tequila to my home bar. The sombrero, however, will remain in the closet.

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Tags: Northwest Portland, Happy Hour, Mexican Food, Acapulco's Gold

Crystal Gazing

McMenamins opens the doors to the Crystal Hotel

Posted by: John Chandler on Apr 27, 2011 at 02:00PM 4 Comments

Photo: John Chandler

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The Junior Parker room dedicated to the song “Mystery Train.”

View Slideshow » Photo: John Chandler

The Wilson Pickett room dedicated to the song “In the Midnight Hour.”

View Slideshow » Photo: John Chandler

Flatbread pizzetta with prosciutto and clams. This appetizer was quickly scarfed.

View Slideshow » Photo: John Chandler

The bustling Zeus Cafe named after former shady nightclub owner Nate Zusman, who used to run The Desert Room in this location.

View Slideshow » Photo: John Chandler

Everybody into the pool!

Mr. and Mrs. Portland—it’s a McMenamins!

Press folks and prominent rubberneckers got to kick the tires at the new Crystal Hotel on Tuesday, wandering hither and yon through one of Mike and Brian McMenamin’s most ambitious projects to date. The refurbishing of the former gambling den, psychedelic rendezvous, and gay bathhouse at SW 12th and Burnside is nearly complete, with artistic nods to the building’s checkered past festooning every square inch of real estate. It’s a bit overwhelming, but the unifying aesthetic throughout is thoroughly McMenamin: the whimsical, impressionistic paintings, calligraphied song lyrics, and rock posters are the decorative elements in what otherwise resembles a very dark-hued youth hostel. The 51 rooms are hippie spartan, with no TVs and mostly no loos (though guests are welcome to slap their iPods on the clock radios next to the beds). There are 17 rooms on each floor along with 4 communal baths, so between answering the call of nature and the narrowness of the hallways, guests will have plenty of opportunity to rub elbows and get to know each other a little better. “It’s a rock and roll hotel,” announced one of the helpful tour guides. Indeed.

Speaking of which, each room has an artfully rendered song theme by an artist that’s played at the Crystal Ballroom at some point in time, all the way back from Little Richard to the Decemberists. I got a chance to check out the calligraphy and painted headboards in rooms dedicated to Junior Parker, Allen Ginsberg (he was here in 1967—I did not know that), Wilson Pickett, Built to Spill, Black Keys, Avett Brothers, and more, and I have to say that the overall effect is pretty damn charming—like spending the weekend with your rambling hippie uncle who used to be a roadie for Quicksilver Messenger Service. He tells the same stories over and over but at least he’s got good weed.

On the ground floor, the brand-new Zeus Cafe feels historic and homey, especially when the sun shines through the stained glass windows. It’s a welcome change from the polished sheet metal found in every other minimalist-industrial eatery in town. Again, it’s a very narrow walk through the room, so everyone should step lightly. Judging by the appetizers spread around the room, I can safely say the food is a several notches above standard McMenamins pub grub. The flatbread pizzetta with clams and prosciutto was a smoky-salty crowd pleaser and the crun-chewy flash-fried chips came with a trio of lively dipping sauces.

And now, on to the basement where you can find Al’s Den, a dusky grotto that’s like a subterranean speakeasy with a few tiki touches. Down the hall there’s a long serpentine soaking pool in a room lined with bamboo. If there is any justice in this world, guests should be able to drink from plastic cups while splashing about. Don’t quote me on that, though.

Final assessment: Hell yes, I’d stay here.

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Tags: McMenamins, New Bar

Pedaling Potables

When will we be seeing this around town?

Posted by: John Chandler on Apr 26, 2011 at 03:00PM 2 Comments

I heard there was one of these contraptions in Bend, and I was steamed that Portland was so behind the times. It appears that progress has caught up with us at last.

From the Facebook site.

The Portland Pedalounge is a 14 Human-Being-Pedal-Powered vehicle. It goes over here, and then down that way, and then stops for a little while, all at the whims of the driver and the human engine. It is a magnificent machine and provides extreme fun. You will be able to see it and book tours in May of this year. Get ready.

Drink beer and get a cardio workout? Let’s do it! At this point it looks as though Pedalounge will only ferry people to and from the pubs. We might have to wait a while before actual swilling and cycling takes place. More details as they materialize.

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Tags: New Bar, Beer Invention

Five Things a Bar Must Have

What are the most essential amenities for a positive drinking-out experience?

Posted by: John Chandler on Apr 22, 2011 at 12:00PM 11 Comments

As a marginally noteworthy local personality I get asked the same questions over and over. The first one is, “What’s your favorite bar?” to which I give a long string of confusing and contradictory answers. (Covering your tracks has never been more important. They can track us anywhere!) The second question is, “What do you look for in a bar?” To me, this is a much more complicated query. Are you asking me what I, the Bar Pilot, look for? Or are you asking me as a reliable barometer for the rest of humanity? I can’t take this kind of pressure!

I’m going to go ahead and list five things a proper bar should have if they want my business on a regular basis, but this list says more about me than it does the rest of human race.

1. Local spirits and brews. I’ll drink in a laundromat (and I have!) if it has a respectable number of regional taps and at least pays lip service to Portland’s artisan distillers.

2. A reasonable noise level. Whether it’s the bartender’s iPod, the crappy folksinger in the corner, the TV, or the jukebox, noise should never impede conversation. Obviously this does not apply to music venues. For more on this subject…

3. A range of price options. I love plunking down my hard-earned coin for a fancy pants cocktail as much as anyone, but I have to know that I can retreat to the safety of a reasonably priced tap beer if my funds are drying up. It’s only common sense.

4. Atmosphere. This answer is kind of a cheat, because it includes lighting, service, and an x-factor (decor, design, furnishings, feng shui) that reveals that some thought about patron comfort went into the room layout. For more on this subject…

5. Decent chow. I generally don’t go to a bar with the intention of eating, but if I’m hanging out and having a good time, I want to know that the food base is covered by something other than a frozen burger patty slapped onto a fly encrusted grill.

Yes, there are tons of other factors to consider. I can even put up with slow service as long as the staff is amiable. But now I want to hear from you, drinking buddies. Let’s talk about the bees in your bonnet. Tell me what needs you have that need to be met in order to guarantee a return visit. Let’s build the definitive list so that we can distribute it to publicans all over the city to ensure our satisfaction. World peace and contentment will surely follow.

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Tags: Bar Culture, Bar Research

Shenaut Will Shine at the Crystal

Mixologist David Shenaut joins the McMenamins empire

Posted by: John Chandler on Apr 18, 2011 at 04:25PM 2 Comments

It’s looking like the brothers McMenamin are upping their game on several fronts with the opening of the new Crystal Hotel and Ballroom. They’ve made a major move toward cocktail respectability with the hiring of Beaker and Flask bartender David Shenaut, who will be mixing drinks at the new Zeus Cafe in the downtown hotel. I chatted with Shenaut about his new position working with bar manager Mike Lorberbaum to bring real consistency to the making of classic cocktails like the mai tai, margarita, mint julep, negroni, and Ramos gin fizz (my go-to breakfast drink). “I can’t speak for the company,” he says, “but it seems to me from the people they’re bringing in that the level of cocktails, wine, and food will be several notches above what we’ve come to expect from the pubs.”

In particular, Shenaut is keen to work with the state-of-the-art Kold-Draft ice machine being installed at the Zeus Cafe. “All of the top bars in New York and San Francisco have Kold-Draft systems,” he explains. In the simplest of terms, Kold-Draft makes bigger, harder ice cubes that melt slowly which results in a crisp cocktail that doesn’t dilute as quickly. “Ice cubes are a very important cocktail ingredient,” Shenaut says, adding that only three Portland bars currently use Kold-Draft technology.

Shenaut believes that the addition of a true upscale venue to the McMenamins empire will be good for business across the board. “I think we’re going to get to a point where you can go into a McMenamins, ask for a negroni, and you’ll see the bartender go to the fridge for the vermouth,” he says. And that’s a good thing.

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Tags: McMenamins, New Bar, David Shenaut, Beaker & Flask

Plate and Glass

Whiskey to the rescue!

Posted by: John Chandler on Apr 15, 2011 at 02:30PM 0 Comments

This is too sweet of a deal to pass up. On Sunday at Beaker & Flask you can attend “A Conversation Between Plate & Glass,” a five-course Japanese feast prepared by B & F chef Anthony Walton. Each course comes paired with a Japanese whiskey selected by Neyah White, an acclaimed Bay Area bartender and brand ambassador for Yamazaki Single Malt. If you’re having trouble wrapping your head around the concept of whiskey from the Land of the Rising Sun, be advised that Yamazaki has won gold medals at both the International Spirits Challenge and World Spirits Competition, so we’re talking about some distinguished beverages here.

This epicurean event, hosted by Yamazaki Whisky and the Oregon Bartenders Guild, is only $120 per person with proceeds going to Second Harvest, Japan’s largest food bank that distributes food to soup kitchens, orphanages, the elderly, emergency shelters, single mothers, the homeless, migrant workers, and many others. Obviously in light of recent tragic events, Second Harvest’s need for donations has never been more urgent.

Have a look at the bountiful menu

Hibiki 12 year
Sashimi Scallop, Asparagus, Greens, Orange

Yamazaki Single Malt 12 year
Cold Soba Salad, Barbecue Chicken, Spring Vegetable, Egg Yolk

Yamazaki Single Malt 18 year
Miso Marinated Kobe Beef, Herbs, Kohlrabi, Yam

Auchentoshan Three Wood
Udon Noodles, Pork Belly, Kamaboko, Daikon, Seaweed

The Glenrothes ‘98
Ota Silken Tofu, Orange Mint, Sour Plums, Ponzu, Honey, Sesame

It almost sounds too good to be true so you are requested to RSVP by 4 pm Saturday. What are you waiting for? Good deeds and good food are the greatest pairing of all.

RSVP with
David Shenaut
dshenaut@oregonbarguild.org
phone 503 888 3118

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Tappy Days

A bonanza of brew fests

Posted by: John Chandler on Apr 14, 2011 at 03:30PM 4 Comments

You might need two Sharpies to circle all these dates on your quaffing calendar. Yes brew believers, you are indeed living in the best of all possible worlds as the next four weeks brings us enough beer blasts to plaster a platoon of parched frat boys. Needless to say, in a town that prides itself on constant innovation and sudsy style points, average ales are not on the menu.

Firkin Fest On Saturday, Rogue Brewing hosts the fourth annual Firkin Fest, a split-session soiree of beers that are unpasteurized, unfiltered, carbonated in the cask, and served at room temperature. Some 30 Oregon breweries, including Bridgeport, Full Sail, Cascade, Upright, and Natian will be in attendance to pour decidedly distinctive ales. Ticket purchases goes to help Buckman Elementary School, so buy a whole bunch of them,

GermanFest 2011 Get ready to hoist a stein or two as the lads at Bailey’s Tap Room don their leather shorts and Tyrolean hats starting at 4 PM on Saturday afternoon. Here, a cadre of Oregon’s best breweries have created exclusive ales brewed with Old World recipes. Bocks, dopplebocks, Berlinerweisses, goses, and rauchbiers will flow from the likes of Heater Allen, Lompoc, Laurelwood, and Alameda. Ich bin ein beer drinker!

Spring Beer and Wine Festival Every year sipping sophisticates come from miles around to sample the suds, vino, and artisan munchies on display at the Oregon Convention Center. Big-name breweries and regional upstarts like Flat Tail and Calapooia will be jockeying for your tokens. Remember, it’s a two-day event, so no need to hit every single booth in one afternoon. Save a little room for Saturday.

Portland Cheers to Belgian Beers Burned out on IPA? Bid the hops a fond farewell at this celebration of yeasty, malty, Belgian-style ales. Participating brewers from Hopworks, Fort George, Lucky Lab, and Deschutes (to name just a few) actually threw darts at a specially marked board to help them decide if their brews would be light or dark in color, and strong or light in alcohol content. Taste the difference!

Cascade Saison Festival Saison, or farmhouse ales, originate from the 19th century in rural France and Belgium, where impromptu farmhouse breweries would quickly crank out these creamy, crisp, and substantial beers to whet the whistles of their seasonal laborers (saison means “season”, duh!). Rough and tumble brews from Block 15, Breakside, Oakshire, and Double Mountain will be on tap, but keep your eyes on the home team. Cascade brewmaster Ron Gansberg is one of the most skilled and imaginative cats in the business.

That’s a whole lot of beer—and it’s not even summer yet!

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Tags: Beer Festivals, Cascade Brewing, Green Dragon, Belgian Beer, German Beer

Hummus a Tune

Tarboush tingles the taste buds

Posted by: John Chandler on Apr 11, 2011 at 02:00PM 1 Comments

Generally speaking, I’m a man of simple tastes (with a mind to match). However, on those occasions when my taste buds go on strike, I am powerless to placate them with nachos, wings or other examples of Happy Hour usual suspects. If you’ve got a moody palate like I have, be advised that Tarboush, my latest Happy Hour discovery, delivers a high level of nuanced Lebanese flavors at reasonable rates.

Full disclosure: I’m rooting for Tarboush to succeed because it’s in my neighborhood and this particular location has seen three different restaurants (including Belly Timber) come and go over the last four years. Even so, I’ve had a few disappointing dinner outings. Like a distressing number of eateries in this town, the quality of food can vary greatly depending on who’s in the kitchen. For the most part the entrees have been serviceable, but I’ve also encountered skimpy shawarma plates, lackluster hummus, and tired salads. On my most recent Happy Hour visit, I was pleased to note that the A-team was definitely on duty. Everything we ordered was deftly prepared and the service was swift and reliable.

Happy Hour rolls from 3-6 M-F and 10 to midnight M-Sat, with 16 very sharable items ranging from $4 for lentil soup or rice pudding to $12 for a heaping order of kawaj (green peppers, eggplant, zucchini, potatoes, and onions piled atop basmati rice. The most basic staples of Lebanese cuisine, tabbouli ($4.50) and hummus ($4.50) are well represented here, accompanied to the table by a basket of pillowy, oven-baked pita. The tabbouli, which can be an extremely bitter experience, was properly balanced with a foundation of olive oil, mint, and lemon. The hummus was creamy perfection with an agreeable garlic kick.

Mhammara and tabbouli. Mmmmm.

The biggest surprise was the mhammara ($6.50), a vivid vermillion spread of red pepper paste, crushed walnuts, olive oil, and pomegranate molasses that’s deceptively dense and filling. Robust flavors abound, as the spicy pepper and sweet pomegranate meld for a zesty walnut crunch. Attention mhammara! I will be back! And I will finish you!

Shanklish ($6.50), a plate of homemade Lebanese cheese coated with thyme and garnished with tomatoes, onions, and olive oil, looks like a salad and can be eaten as such, but for a true Middle-Eastern feast of the senses, I recommend that everything should be piled indiscriminately onto the warm pita, folded over in taco fashion, and shoveled into your pie hole. Once deposited therein, the forces of sweet, sour, bitter, smoky, and astringent rattle their sabres and threaten to do battle before assimilating peacefully.

Vegan and gluten-free diners have an assortment of options, though it would be nice if there was a bread or cracker substitute for the gluten free, since most menu items are spreadable or dip worthy. My poor girlfriend was forced to improvise with french fries with mixed results.

Shanklish at Tarboush.

For the washing down of all this delightful chow, pints of beer are a paltry $3, with selections from trustworthy names such as Ninkasi, Terminal Gravity, Widmer, and Laurelwood on tap. Signature cocktails ($7) like the spirit-heavy Tarboush Iced Tea (gin, rum, triple sec, vodka, Coke, and sweet and sour) rely on puissance rather than mixological finesse, but they get the job done if you’re cruising into an early weekend. Brimming glasses of house wine go for $5-7.

Obviously, the average citizen does not have weekly cravings for such far-flung fare, and for them there are an infinite number of spots that will happily serve up domestic kibble. I for one, however, am deliriously grateful that my rebellious taste buds can be pacified with a victual vacation to Tarboush—where the breeze is redolent with the aroma of olives and mint and the imaginary heat of the desert sun warms my tired bones.

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The Skittles Challenge

Nope, wouldn’t be prudent at this juncture

Posted by: John Chandler on Apr 10, 2011 at 04:00PM 4 Comments

Yes, it’s true that I once chugged down a Twinkie-and-rum milkshake and lived to tell the tale. But even with my reputation as a daredevil drinker hanging in the balance, I must announce that there are some lines I will not cross. May I direct your attention to this placard in the window of Barracuda that’s undoubtedly used to promote sensible consumption.

Skittles and vodka? Nope, not gonna do it, drinking buddies. That is, unless I see some serious cash or I get triple-dog dared and presented with a signed petition. And even then I won’t feel good about it.

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Dutch Treat

Upright Brewing’s Kopstootje

Posted by: John Chandler on Apr 05, 2011 at 12:00PM 3 Comments

The instruction card read:

Scoot to the edge of the bar.
Bend from the waist to sip from the tulip glass.
Look a little silly? Perfect.
Sit up. Take a sip of your beer.
Now introduce your new friend to a stranger.
Repeat.

Last Friday found your humble narrator facing the bar at Circa 33, along with a bunch of other beery chaps, waiting for the green light. Directly in front of each of us was a shot and a beer, but nothing nearly as prosaic as bourbon and Bud. Instead, the bartender had filled our lovely tulip glasses to overflowing with Bols Genever, a brazen, wheat-based Dutch-style gin variant. Perched nearby was a beer back of Kopstootje (kop-stow-tje, which mean "little head-butt) Biere, a specially brewed, limited-edition ale from Upright Brewing mastermind Alex Ganum and local spirits guide Jacob Grier, that was formulated specifically to be imbibed in concert with the gin (that isn’t really gin).

After some introductory comments by Ganum, who noted he tried to add as many of the same botanical and aromatic ingredients to the beer that are also found in Bols Genever (star anise, clove, juniper, to name a few), and by Bols Genever brand ambassador Tal Nadari, who insisted that his product is really more akin to whiskey than gin, we put our hands behind our backs, bent forward and sipped. I can attest to the fact that Bols Genever is in no way similar to Beefeaters, Seagrams, or any other dry London-style gin. Instead, there is more herbal sweetness, with none of the accompanying burn. When you add a splash of the botanically bolstered Upright Kopstootje, the remnants of the Genever seem to go “poof” and a cloud of malt, licorice, and clove is left behind, which softly dissipates.

I found the combination to be earthy and intricate, but perhaps not suitable for your daily dose. This is a complex flavor confluence best left to august occasions. If you wish to take this pairing for a test drive, you can find Bols Genever and Kopstootje currently available at Hop and Vine, Beaker and Flask, Grain and Gristle, and a few other classy drinking establishments.

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Tags: Upright Brewing, Circa 33, Bols Genever

Oh, Henry’s!

Henry Weinhard’s IPA

Posted by: John Chandler on Apr 04, 2011 at 03:00PM 5 Comments

Another day’s mail, another beer delivery. The appearance of a couple cold bottles of Henry’s new India Pale Ale is by no means cause to jump, jive, and wail (especially if you were hoping for cognac), but unlike some longtime Northwesties, I maintain a soft spot in my liver for this venerable brand.

While it’s true the Weinhard Brewing operation in Portland closed down in 1999 when it was bought by industry giant SABMiller, Henry’s is largely brewed on a contract basis by Full Sail in Hood River, so technically it’s still a part of the landscape. Over the last several years they’ve continued to churn out the familiar Henry’s Private Reserve and Blue Boar, while diversifying the brand a bit with their own palate-friendly versions of hefeweizen, blonde ale (a serviceable beer), the odd seasonal, and now an IPA. While I certainly wouldn’t stack it up against BridgePort IPA or Hair of the Dog’s Blue Dot (it’s nowhere near as robust), for the price (usually between $5.99 and $6.99 for a six pack) it’s not too shabby. It’s got a piney-fruit aroma, a generous hop bite with a decent amount of malt backbone, and a tingly finish.

It’s good to know that a mid-range option still exists somewhere on the suds spectrum between down-market corn-fed swill on one end and premium-priced craft beer on the other. Clue me in, drinking buddies: What do you reach for when the wallet won’t allow a trip to the top shelf?

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Tags: Henry Weinhard's

Have Beer Will Travel

Steinbart’s home brew happening

Posted by: John Chandler on Mar 31, 2011 at 03:30PM 1 Comments

This calls for a beer! Thanks to the passage of SB 444, which was just signed into law by our lager-loving governor on Monday, it is now legal for home brewers to bring their ales out from the basement, garage, or man-cave in order to enter them in competitions or share them with the public. As we reported last year, problems arose when an Oregon State Fair committee brought an obscure (i.e., old and idiotic) law, ORS 471.403, to the attention of the OLCC, in reference to the fair’s popular home brewing and home winemaking competitions, which effectively led to the kibosh of the contests.

Now that the matter has been cleared up in the legislature, F.H. Steinbart Co., the oldest and most revered supplier of home brew gear in the area, is ready to celebrate. This Saturday, starting at 9 a.m., home brewers of all skill levels are invited to bring their beers and/or brewing paraphernalia to Steinbart’s for a Set Home Brew Free event. Weather permitting, participants can set up and brew in the parking lot, with home brew samples available for the tasting. Needless to say, attendees are instructed to imbibe wisely.

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