BAR PILOT

It’s a Wine…It’s a Beer…It’s Sake, Man!

Sake Fest Back in Portland

Posted by: Sarah Moore on Mar 28, 2012 at 10:00AM 0 Comments

Sake’s reputation precedes it as a cheap, hot addition to a sushi supper, or more recently, a high-end cocktail ingredient, but great drinking minds will tell you it’s so much more. A rice-based alcohol whose 5,000-year brewing history includes a Chinese birth and third century migration to Japan, sake is often called rice wine but has a production process akin to that of beer. Like both wine and beer, however, this Asian potable has more than enough qualities, varieties, and uses to give any would-be snob plenty to talk about.

Attend this year’s Sake Fest at the Governor Hotel (Thursday April 12, 6:30 – 9 PM), and you could learn enough to hold forth, too. Pair it with cheese and chocolate? Sure. With pizza or pasta? Why not? Pulled pork, you say? No sweat. Aficionados swear sake is as versatile as any other alcohol, and will offer proof in sample-sized, perfectly paired packages. When serving your newest culinary addition to your friends, never fear: experts are on hand to teach you the ins and outs of sake-speak. Soon you’ll be tossing off gems of insight regarding fragrance, impact, finish, acidity, presence and complexity. Easy as mochi.

If you still need help, or simply want to take your sake savvy to the next level, SakeOne’s got you covered. The Forest Grove-based company, one of a tiny cadre of American sake brewers, is launching its inaugural Sake Cocktail Guide, chockfull of tasty recipes from those in the know nationwide (for your copy, email info@sakeone.com with Saké Cocktail Booklet in the subject). Flip through the pages of this how-to and find sake dressed in elaborate costumes of sweet, spicy, floral and fruity, and accompanied by such outlandish ingredients as coarse crystal date sugar and Monin Jasmine Syrup. Even more fun, these party-worthy drinks come with names like Brennan’s Pear Flower cocktail and Melngailis’ Master Cleanse-Tini.

With such versatility and delectability on offer, why don’t we hear more about this appetizing alcohol? My fellow Portland Monthly intern Brandy Crowe, who learned much about the peculiar-seeming palliative while working at SakeOne, says that part of the problem is education: people simply don’t know enough about sake to appreciate it. A good festival ought to take care of that, she added, but there’s still the problem of taste: “It’s very bold. Just like wine, some people don’t like red wine at first. You have to sample it, get used to it, try it with food.” Fortunately for the consumer, this will not be a problem at Sake Fest.

And while you’re at it, why limit yourself to sake alone? Sample the full gamut of exotic hooch, including imported beers and plum wine, and learn to combine your new favorite into mouthwatering mixed drinks. With almost 40 Portland chefs and sake producers from abroad and at home, with so much to learn and so much to try, this festival is sure to educate, illuminate, even intoxicate. Bottoms up.

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Happy Hour: Sweet Hereafter

A nice, trendy bar—whether you are a vegan or not.

Posted by: Mac Pogue on Mar 21, 2012 at 01:00PM 5 Comments

What Happy Hour at Sweet Hereafter

Where 3326 SE Belmont St.

Why For some reason the word “vegan” is inseparable with Sweet Hereafter, but if you didn’t say it, (or hiss, as some people do) the Sweet Hereafter wouldn’t lose any allure (or repulsion). The sibling bar to that “other” vegan bar, the Bye and Bye, the Sweet Hereafter has plenty of choices on the menu that really ought to satisfy even the most ardent meat-lover. Vegan bars also have the unexpectedly pleasing corollary of not trying to wow me by slapping bacon on every food item. Maybe this is the way to go?

The Sweet Hereafter’s daily happy hour (from 4 to 7 pm) doesn’t offer any amazing discounts, but it does shave off a dollar from food and cocktail items. Don’t feel like you need to plan your night around the Happy Hour though; some of the large groups the happy hour attracts might be worth the few dollars to avoid.

Inside The bar lighting inside is intimate (read: a little bit too dark) and the music a little too loud, so I skipped the main room for the large covered patio. Don’t ask me about the physics of this, but the patio manages to be substantially hotter than the inside—like T-shirt-in-March hot. If you’re looking for a reprieve from the cold, this miniature Eighth Wonder of Portland ought to do the trick. Physics-defying heat aside, the Hereafter will certainly warm you up with their ridiculously strong…

Drinks I tried their signature cocktail, the Hereafter ($8), an iced-tea lemonade with an out of control amount of vodka and bourbon. Seriously, I’m pretty sure the bartender poured longer than I could hold my breath. The refreshing beverage comes in mason a jar, and not a tiny jam jar-sized one. Eight dollars might have been a little bit steep for a single cocktail, but the sway in my step after splitting a beer and a cocktail with a friend made me consider otherwise. My booze-math errs on counting the Hereafter as two drinks, so adjust your charts accordingly. The beer menu doesn’t really seem intended to impress passersby. If you’re stopping at the Sweet Hereafter, I’d recommend taking advantage of the cocktail menu.

Food Easily my least favorite part of being involved with vegan culture is the Vegan Reveal (“And did you know it’s vegan?” “Betcha didn’t think that was vegan!” ad nauseam). But the Buffalo Sub sandwich ($8), stuffed with filling soy curls, veganaise and tomatoes, seems really ripe for a Reveal. My partner-in-crime scarfed down his half of the Buffalo Sub without even pausing to ask what the meaty substance was, giving me the perfect opportunity to try out my own Vegan Reveal. (He didn’t really seem to care.)

Even if you don’t care for your sandwich to come slathered in ideology, the Sweet Hereafter serves some pretty nice drinking snacks. The chips and salsa worked as a zesty, cheap counterpart to our beer and Hereafter, and the (not literally) beefy sandwich kept the cocktail’s booze from pushing me over the edge. I’m interested in trying their bahn mi sandwich next time I go. They also serve a variety of bowls with rice and tofu and other assortments for reasonable prices,

Bottom Line The Sweet Hereafter will work perfect for those who love the Bye and Bye but don’t want to go all the way to Alberta, fans of Dig a Pony who can’t stand the crowds, or those looking for a hip reprieve from some of Sunnyside’s dingier joints. Also, for vegans looking for a bar to call home.

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Tags: Happy Hour, Vegan Menu, Sweet Hereafter

Cartlandia Gets a Liquor License

Will the floodgates open? Not exactly.

Posted by: Mac Pogue on Mar 19, 2012 at 01:00PM 3 Comments

On Friday, after a reported three-hour deliberation, the Oregon Liquor Control Commission unanimously approved a liquor license for the Cartlandia food cart pod at the intersection of the Springwater Corridor and Southeast 82nd Avenue. Weary travelers can now settle down at the self-proclaimed “bike-central” cart pod and enjoy a beer with their meal, between the hours of 10am and 10pm, Monday – Thursday, and 10am to 11pm on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

The OLCC has historically never granted annual liquor licenses to food carts (the Captured by Porches brewery cart on SE Division has apparently slipped by on a technicality), but Cartlandia’s fenced-in beer garden and willingness to hire alcohol monitors gave it a leg up. Although OLCC’s licensing director Farshad Allahdadi made it clear in an interview on Friday that the Cartlandia approval does not set a precedent for food carts and liquor licenses, he did predict that the number of applications from food carts will rise.

While Mayor Sam Adams deems the license to be a harbinger of a Portland filled with booze-slinging food carts, Allahdadi assured the public that the OLCC’s chief concern remains “public safety and impact on community livability.” A walled-in beer garden with strict serving hours and alcohol monitors offers just about the same amount of control that any brick-and-mortar restaurant does, so how does hizzoner envision this food-cart-booze-fueled apocalypse? Even though there are 700 food carts, Allahdadi didn’t seem to be worried about a deluge of applications, and he certainly doesn’t foresee all 700 being granted liquor licenses. “I wouldn’t anticipate that we would see a tremendous flood from this decision,” he added, offhandedly addressing the Mayor’s concerns.

Whatever the future of Portland’s relationship with improvised restaurants and spirits, you can now soon order a beer at Cartlandia. Cheers!

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Tags: Oregon Liquor Control Commission, Cartlandia, Liquor License

St. Patrick’s Soirees

The holiday merriment will flow like Guinness in Portland.

Posted by: Brandy Crowe on Mar 14, 2012 at 10:00AM 2 Comments

Where’s the green beer?

Photo Courtesy of Ryan J. Lane.

Welcome to St. Patrick’s Day 2012. We are indeed lucky lads and lasses in our great green city of Portland, as there’s an abundance of celebrations honoring the traditions of pub crawlin’ and corned beef eatin’. Better still, this most Irish of days falls on a Saturday this year, which means even more opportunities for stout-fueled roistering. For your convenience, we’ve gathered the lot of festivities for all the craic ye be seeking, from family-friendly fun and hearty Irish cuisine, to stomping live bands, booze specials, and boxing matches. So don your greens, pluck a shamrock, and slap a leprechaun—we’re on our way!

Dublin Pub boasts a lineup of six bands including pub favorites Darby O’Gill. They will not feature Sean Connery’s vocals from the movie of the same name, but will play timeless ballads about drinking and kissing the lasses. There will be plenty of Irish Stew, corned beef and cabbage, and sausage bangers in honor of the day. (6821 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Hwy)

How about a St. Patrick’s Day brunch featuring a bottomless pint or mimosa? That’s the Hop o’ the Morning special at East Burn. Be sure to save room for a mess of Mike’s Corned Beef and Colcannons. Healy & Haggerty will provide the swilling soundtrack. (1800 E. Burnside St)

Be on the lookout for a giant, two-story inflatable guest planted atop Jake’s Famous Crawfish, which heralds Portland’s longest continuous Irish holiday celebration (they’ve been throwing this party annually since 1892). The action happens inside the restaurant, as well as a block-long tent, and will feature jams by the likes of Seamus Egan & Friends and the Clan MacCleay Pipe Band. This is a charity event, with all proceeds going to Trillium Family Services. (401 SW 12th Ave)

Paddy’s is throwing a St. Paddy’s street party, closing down SW Yamhill Avenue in order to dole out food, drink, and entertainment, including Irish dancing, five bands, and a headlining appearance by local sax-playing soul man Patrick Lamb. Be sure to buy up plenty of raffle tickets as a five-day trip for two to Ireland will be raffled off to raise money for the Children’s Cancer Association. (65 SW Yamhill St)

North45 Pub ladles up the lamb stew with Guinness brew, and will have sipping specials on beer and Jameson Irish Whiskey. Caper about to the music of Carolan’s Skull Irish Band, Kilty by Association, and (rumor has it), bagpipers playing on bar tops. (517 NW 21st Ave)

With diversions like an Ireland vs USA boxing match and a viewing party at the bar for that coincidentally scheduled Portland Timbers’ game, Kell’s Irish Restaurant and Pub is the place to be for the biggest blarney bash in town. Their weekend celebration promises a myriad of live bands belting out traditional tunes, dance troupes, and rivers of Guinness. (12 SW Second Ave)

Perhaps chilling in Katie O’Brien’s spacious back patio is more your speed, nestled in a comfy chair ordering up corned beef hash and triple-decker reubens while nodding to the percussive persistance of the Last Regiment Syncopated Drummers marching band. Company reps from Bushmill’s will be stopping for whiskey tastings at 7pm. (2809 NE Sandy Blvd)

The Doug Fir hosts local Celtic punk band Amadan. Their frenzy of fiddling should blend nicely with the woodsy ambience resulting in much rowdy revelry. Watch for an appearance by the alphorn. (830 E. Burnside St)

What’s St. Patrick’s without the music of The Pogues? KMRIA (Kiss My Royal Irish Ass), a holiday specific tribute band featuring members of the Decemberists, The Minus 5, Eels, and Casey Neill & the Norway Rats will be tearing it up at the Wonder Ballroom.

Biddy McGraw’s brings live Irish music from 10 bands throughout the day, great Irish fare, drink, and good cheer! Parents are welcome too; there will be face painting and a balloon artist for the wee ones, who can hang with the family until 10pm. (6000 NE Glisan St)

As one might imagine, the brothers McMenamin take this holiday pretty seriously. You can find mc-tastic celebrations at all locations, with a multitude of bands, dancing, and the roving River City Pipe band—not to mention leprechauns with candy. Follow the Seamus MacDuff Golf Tourney on the green at Edgefield, or bring the clan to The Kennedy School to dance a few jigs and reels with Freak Mountain Ramblers and the Jig Jam Irish Hooley. At the top o’ the evening bonnie lass Ashleigh Flynn will take the stage at Crystal Ballroom, followed by Under a Blood Red Sky, a tribute to Irish icons U2. Toast “Erin Go Braugh!” with McMenamin’s Irish Stout, Irish Coffee cocktails, the newly released White Owl Whiskey, and the annual limited-edition Devil’s Bit Whiskey. Food specials include seasonal fare such as Dubliner Cheese Salad, Shepherd’s Pie, and MacSleyne Irish Stew.

And finally, It’s OK to get stocious on the 12th annual St. Pat’s BarFly Bus. It’s $25 a head or 10 tix for $200, which means no driving and no cover charges as you receive VIP treatment at 8-10 watering holes, along with drink specials and free food.

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Tags: McMenamins, St. Patrick's Day, Kells, Guinness

Would You Drink This?

Spelling doesn’t count with Coole Swan—unless it’s a Yeats reference.

Posted by: John Chandler on Mar 13, 2012 at 10:00AM 11 Comments

This is why advertisements on Facebook need to be more carefully curated. Seriously? Coole Swan? It’s allegedly an artisan blending of whiskey, Irish cream, and chocolate. Look, I’ve imbibed much scarier concoctions than this one in my time—including a mysterious clear liquid served in an old mayonnaise jar distilled by my cousin Lalo, that caused me to chirp like a budgie for three days. But is this a product that you would actually go to the liquor store and buy? Over 31,000 people “like” it on FB, and It retails for around $25.

OK, drinking buddies, your assignment for today is as follows: First of all, weigh in on Coole Swan. Who’s the target audience here? Is it you? Once we’ve established that, spitball some fancy cocktail recipes that include Coole Swan as a key ingredient. And if you happen to work for Coole Swan, by all means send me a bottle so we can road-test this puppy. I would be only too happy to give it a day in court (as long as I don’t end up there, myself).

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Tags: Coole Swan

What’s Up, Widmer?

Brewer Ben Dobler talks shop

Posted by: Sarah Moore on Mar 09, 2012 at 11:00AM 2 Comments

Widmer Brothers’ Spiced IPA and Dark Saison.

Craft brewing has taken hold of the American imagination as Krazy Glue takes hold of balsa … that is to say, hard. Here in the Northwest the penchant is particularly pronounced, with mom and pop (or more accurately, dude and dude) breweries popping up all over the landscape.

Widmer Brothers Brewing Co., an innovator when it opened almost 30 years ago and still a Rose City favorite today, has weathered the competition by providing a consistently good product and catering to lovers of all things seasonal and new. Ben Dobler sat down with Portland Monthly to discuss two of their newest offerings, the W’12 Dark Saison Brewmasters’ Release and the Spiced IPA, the latest offering in Widmer’s Rotator IPA series.

“This is a marriage of a core style with a seasonal mentality,” says Dobler of the IPA, explaining that the sumptuous spicing is a product of collaboration with San Diego homebrew club QUAFF (Quality Ale and Fermentation Fraternity). These zesty flavors enter by way of a cold-brewed black tea spiked with ginger, cinnamon, clove, star anise, black pepper, and cardamom. The aroma lends hints of citrus initially, though different scents come to the fore as the beer warms. Malt complexity is restrained, adding just the right sweetness to balance the bitterness of the finish. “It doesn’t take a lot of talent to make a blow-your-palate-away IPA,” Dobler adds. “The trick is getting the hops to play nicely with the malt.”

Brewer Ben Dobler has demonstrated considerable creativity in his 16 years experience at Widmer.

The W’12 Dark Saison, latest in an annual series of releases designed, according to Dobler, as “a platform for brewers to really think outside the box and develop new styles,” also depends on the judicious use of malts. True to form, “outside the box” is Dark Saison’s middle name; this traditionally straw-colored farmhouse-style ale is, in its current incarnation, a dark, ruby-hued font of flavor. Owing its dusky complexion to the addition of caramel and dark chocolate malts, this dry-finishing brew has aromas of pepper, bubble gum and an indefinable spiciness. “We like to embrace tradition while throwing it out the door,” says Dobler. Well, sir … mission accomplished.

So what else is new at Widmer? There’s the Raspberry Russian Imperial Stout, the Oatmeal Porter (made with a custom blend of roasted oats), and the Marionberry Hibiscus Gose, a slight makeover of their Portland Fruit Beer Festival hit Raspberry Hibiscus Gose. Dobler is particularly excited about the Gose, a style of brewing that was almost lost over the last half-century, kept alive only by a couple of dedicated German brewers. As it happens, they were happy to share the tricks of their trade. “They were so excited to get a call that they told us everything,” Dobler laughs.

Marionberry Hibiscus Gose shines like a frothy Valentine.

The result: a fine light beer with a flavor unlike anything you’ve ever tasted. Such nontraditional ingredients as salt, coriander, and lactic acid help account for the pleasant tang as well as the faintly herbal taste. Both marionberry and hibiscus lend strong summer-leaning flavors and bright colors; the hibiscus especially is responsible for ruby tones and magenta highlights, as well as a candy-colored head. Contrary to expectation, the perky-looking brew isn’t sweet at all, but Dobler is particularly happy about the crossover engendered by such a, well, pink beer. “The ladies,” he nods knowingly. “The ladies love it.”

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First Impression: Rum Club

A sipping spot for Dad—and everyone else

Posted by: Kate Degenhardt on Mar 07, 2012 at 09:00AM 0 Comments

Photo: Kate Degenhardt

Pickled eggs at Rum Club come in delicious (and colorful!) varieties like beet and horseradish (center) and mustard.

View Slideshow » Photo: Kate Degenhardt

Pickled eggs at Rum Club come in delicious (and colorful!) varieties like beet and horseradish (center) and mustard.

View Slideshow » Photo: Kate Degenhardt

Exes and Oh’s cocktail has Cruzan Blackstrap Rum, Cardamaro, Root, vanilla and nutmeg.

View Slideshow » Photo: Kate Degenhardt

Rum Club’s interior is dominated horseshoe shaped, mahogany-topped bar with glass tiling.

View Slideshow » Illustration:

Savory pulled pork sandwich, wedge salad with bacon and blue cheese and Rum Club’s toddy, the Weights & Measures.

View Slideshow » Photo: Kate Degenhardt

Cuban spiced boar ribs ($9) and the Sauracher ($8).

View Slideshow » Photo: Kate Degenhardt

Rum Club is right around the corner from its sister bar Beaker & Flask.

What: Rum Club 

Where: 720 SE Sandy Blvd

When: Open at 4 pm, last call at 2 am Monday – Saturday.

Why Someone once described this dapper hole-in-the wall as the “ultimate dad bar.” I think that means it has lots of wood and leather, a handsome interior and refined, quality cocktails that someone with discriminating taste can really appreciate. All of these things are true about Rum Club, but I’m still not completely convinced. After I walk in and order the Exes and Oh’s (Cruzan Blackstrap Rum, Cardamaro, root, vanilla, nutmeg) I realize that while this may not be the “ultimate dad bar,” it might be the “ultimate bar lover’s bar.” My drink is perfectly balanced, fresh, and spicy. It’s not surprising that the Rum Club was created by the guys behind Beaker & Flask. Actually, it’s right around the corner from its sister bar in the same stately building on Sandy.

Inside Candle flames flicker in textured red glass bowls and the horseshoe shaped, mahogany-topped bar compliments the warm amber glow of the rum in my glass. It looks like the sort of place the boys from Mad Men might hang out. I see it now; Don Draper sitting in the corner studying a Rum Club Daquri (Bacardi Aged Rum, lime, sugar, Maraschino, Angostura Bitters, Absinthe) as tendrils of smoke coil from his cigarette. (Obviously, there’s no smoking.) He swirls the glass and wrinkles his brow, orders a pickled egg and makes meaningful eye contact with an incredible looker seated at the bar.

In reality, a flanneled mixologist tinkers with ingredients behind the bar, and a slate-colored brick facade behind a row of wooden tables offsets vintage golden bird patterned wallpaper that recalls the darling sophistication of the 1950s and 60s. The bar radiates, thanks to the folks at Annen Design Industries who also imagined Beaker and Flask’s interior.

Drinks The cocktail list includes some creatively updated classics as well as inventively novel potions. most for around $8. Try the refreshing Sauracher (rye, campari, Italian vermouth, fresh lime, ginger beer). Feeling cold? Ask for the Weights and Measures, a hot toddy made from a combination of Spanish rum, French rum from Martinique, aromatized wine and honey. It’s sure to make you feel toasty and maybe a little giddy. Those seeking something more exotic should try the Burton Mercer (Bacardi Oakheart Spiced Rum, Aperol, coconut cream, and house orange syrup in a blender) or Strange Magic (Mt. Gay Black, Tuaca, amaro, lime, egg white, mulled wine grenadine, orange biters). Beers on the menu range from Tecate ($3) and Ranier ($2) to Caldera pale ale in a can ($5). Wine and bubbly are also on the menu.

Food Chef Ben Bittinger is returning to his roots at Paley’s Place, and his replacement is Jon “Bones” Anderson, a former sous chef at Le Pigeon. I know that Rum Club’s focus is drinks, and that the small plates of “American continental cocktail cuisine” are meant to support, not distract. That explains the menu, which includes a shrimp cocktail with spicy sauce and the picked eggs that I have been dying to try. At first glance my choices seem a bit stark (although gourmet chex mix with piménton does seem like it would go perfectly with with my drink!) The duck liver paté ($8) and pulled pork sandwich ($8) sound promising. Above the bar there is a specials board filled with heartier rotating dishes, and they sound delicious. The empanadas are tempting but I decide on the Cuban spiced boar ribs with orange ($9). Although there is no doubt that Rum Club’s forte is its cocktails, the two friends behind Rum Club, Kevin Ludwig and partner Mike Shea have proved that they know how to pair food and drink. The ribs are incredible—tender, spicy and rich. The savory pulled pork sandwich comes on a sub roll, and the wedge salad with bacon and blue cheese is as delightful as it sounds.

The Bottom Line The next time I am craving an exemplary rum cocktail and scintillating victuals, I will run straight to Rum Club: It’s not just for dads.

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Happy Hour: Uptown Billiards

A stylish Happy Hour where the eats can’t be beat

Posted by: Sarah Moore on Mar 05, 2012 at 09:00AM 2 Comments

Sometimes love is a slow process, filled with wrong turns and misunderstandings, but growing sweeter with time. Sometimes it limps along before giving up the ghost; sometimes it never even leaves the runway. But sometimes, on those rare occasions when the planets align and you catch Cupid’s notice, it can strike like lightning.

Such was the love I felt for Uptown Billiards wine board at Happy Hour: immediate, electric, unconditional. Well, that last part isn’t actually true. There were lots of conditions that predisposed me toward instantaneous love, like the perfectly tender grilled squash or the nicely spiced jumble of olives and garlic cloves, the clutter of cheese or the medley of meat. Whatever the case, at $5.50 per person it was nothing short of highway robbery, only I was the robber. What a thrill.

This dimly lit hall, dressed in Baroque wallpaper and heavy drapes, accented with a glittering bar and row upon row of green felt-clad tables, operates on a simple premise: Happy Hour food should be cheaper. And so it is; appetizers, soups, salads, sandwiches and pizza are all half off from 4-6:30 every evening. The dinner menu is not included, nor are most drinks, though they do offer $5 pours of red and white wine. And to give credit where credit is due, their cocktail list is extensive and varied, rivaled only by their selection of whiskey, 36 strong.

Because the food is such a steal, though, paying a bit more for drinks hardly matters. The fabulous Pizza Mediterraneo, loaded with sun-dried tomato, roasted red peppers, olives, feta and fontina, is only $4.50. Oysters on the half shell ($5.50) are lusciously sweet and fresh, especially topped with a pucker-inducing strawberry ginger granita. The romaine, reggiano and white anchovy salad ($4.50) is also lovely. I wouldn’t know how the steamed mussels were, however, as clams arrived in their place. Though our spacey waitress did eventually concede there’d been a substitution (“I haven’t been around for a while,” she told us in non-explanation), it was at the time a bit of a disappointment. Nevertheless, the menu now reflects the change, and as ancho chili saffron broth cloaks both bivalves equally deliciously, especially when paired with grilled artisan bread and offered up for $5.50, I am willing to forgive.

On the list for next time – and yes, there will be a next time – are the mango and avocado salad, the bacon, pear and fontina pizza, and the habanero guacamole burger. Oh, and also the Pate Like Nobody’s Business – a dish with that kind of name, like Uptown Billiards itself, simply has style.

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Truth in Advertising

Trader Joe’s knows how to sell beer.

Posted by: John Chandler on Mar 01, 2012 at 01:00PM 3 Comments

A candid photo from Trader Joe’s. With an advertising campaign like this one, it’s no surprise that house brand Simpler Times Pilsner is flying off the shelves. What’s more, I agree 100 percent. It’s not horrible. It’s not a magic pony ride to Flavortown either, but for $3.99 a six-pack you can’t gripe too much. Think of it as the beer equivalent of Two-buck Chuck.

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Glenfiddich’s Cask of Dreams

Intern Brandy Crowe sets sail for Scotland.

Posted by: Brandy Crowe on Feb 28, 2012 at 09:00AM 0 Comments

Hailing from Jack Daniels country, I’ve always had an affinity for sipping bold, slightly sweet bourbons on the rocks or in Mint Juleps. In my endeavor to become a more well-rounded beverage imbiber, I’m temporarily abandoning my familiar Gentleman Jack and Woodford Reserve in search of a new world of whiskies. It’s an enjoyable journey, but one that comes with an overwhelming pour of information. All those styles by region and distillation practices, such as American, Canadian, or Irish made with rye, corn, or barley, can be brutal to keep straight, not to mention small batch, single barrel, sour mash and charcoal filtered. Time to get educated.

And then there’s scotch, which I was unfamiliar with other than a few chance drinks and Mad Men-esque thoughts of bottles being opened to celebrate business ventures. I was therefore delighted to recently snag an invitation to the Oregon Culinary Institute, where Mitch Bechard, scotch whiskey expert and ambassador for beverage giant William Grant & Sons, held court with students and whiskey aficionados alike on the history and merits of the prestigious Glenfiddich Scotch Distillery and to introduce us to the differences between scotch, whiskey, and bourbon.

In his heavy Scottish accent, Bechard led us through a virtual tour of the distillery while we sampled Glenfiddich’s range of 12, 15, and 18 year old famous single malt scotches. On screen, the property resembles the Pacific Northwest, nestled within a misty expanse of evergreen trees. Apparently, the large vats used for marrying the aged scotch are made of Oregon Pine. (Yay us!) Glenfiddich, meaning “Valley of the Deer” in Gaelic, is one of the oldest and most successful distilleries from the Speyside region of Scotland. Built by William Grant and his nine children in 1887, it’s still family owned and operated.

Glenfiddich is renowned for producing a light, slightly fruity scotch with a big taste. The 12 year old is svelte and floral, with big pear notes, followed by subtle oak, leather, and pepper on the end. The 15 year is denser, with more honey and warm brown sugar, and a sassy sweetness of sherry from the sherry casks that were predominantly used in its aging. The 18 year is exquisitely smooth on the palate with a rich complexity of earthiness and smoky oak finishing with sweet cinnamon and citrus flavors. New flavors, like new friends, can really turn your head.

At the end of the lecture, which touches on the company’s dedication to sustainable practices, among other subjects, we are presented with Glenfiddich’s latest progeny, an extremely limited release modestly named the Cask of Dreams.

Most of Glenfiddich’s barrels (or “casks” in Scotland) used for aging are older oak, but in 2011 Glenfiddich procured newer American oak barrels from Louisville to experiment with flavor textures. In celebration of Glenfiddich’s 125th anniversary, they decided to have a little fun and roll the casks through several major U.S. and Canadian cities, throwing parties in their wake. Curious bystanders were asked to scrawl their hopes and dreams all over the oak. In the end, the inscribed casks were returned to Scotland, where they were filled with a blended scotch aged 14-16 years, and then allowed to age an additional 3 months. Only 3,500 bottles of this “dream scotch” were produced, and priced at $99.95 each, About 300 will be available in Portland from spirits retailers upon release in mid-March.

The Cask of Dreams is a lighter golden-brown color with aromas of dried fig and vanilla. It is surprisingly smooth in the first sip and mid-palate with playful pear and apple flourishes, but in the finish the new oak becomes apparent with its shades of rich smoke and spice, and finishes with a lingering peat note coming through, a warming hint of the traditional Scottish fuel used in the fires that dry the barley.

Now that I have I’ve had a proper introduction to this noble spirit, I plan on spending some quality time with it. Bechard suggests that the best way to experience a scotch whiskey is to chill and pour it neat after dinner, adding just a splash of water to amplify the aromas and flavors. This is homework I’m actually looking forward to.

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Snacking at Wafu

Appetizers mix familiar and exotic flavors

Posted by: John Chandler on Feb 23, 2012 at 04:00PM 3 Comments

Steamed pork belly buns

What: Wafu

Where: 3113 Southeast Division Street; 503-236-0205

Why: In two words, bar snacks. Wafu, the hipster Japanese bar overseen by Trent Pierce, has many things to recommend it. If I can be permitted to borrow a Fieri-ism (a descriptive word or phrase associated with peroxide Food Network host Guy Fieri, usually referring to edible awesomeness) the variety of ramen here is like a joyride to Flavortown. The cocktails are delicate boozy blossoms that run the gamut from precious to puissant. There’s a tastefully curated beer selection, and sake on tap. The waitstaff is attentive and affable. And there’s always a samurai movie showing in the back room.

Two varieties of tempura shrimp with a side of daikon

But I want to talk about the brilliant and reasonably priced appetizer menu. There’s no Happy Hour at Wafu, but the dozen small-plate options should inspire some serious episodes of profligacy. The steamed pork belly buns ($3 each) are luscious rectangles of smoky-sweet meat lovingly wrapped in a silky rice comforter. You may start with a single order, but I predict a teetering stack of crockery is in your future. The inari hot pockets ($7 for a trio) look complicated, prompting the dinner to wonder about the efficiency of chop sticks versus bare hands. It’s a tempura battered roll stuffed with bacon, fontina cheese, and scallions. The bacon shows up early to the party, accompanied by the smooth, nutty fontina, with the scallion bite on the backside.

A potent pile of edamame

I’ve also developed strong feelings for the tempura shrimp, which for $7 entitles you to a couple modest mounds of deftly fried shrimp in dueling sauces (one creamy and spicy, the other slathered in wasabi mayo). Even the humble pile of boiled soy beans known as edamami ($3), is turbo-charged with garlic, soy, sichuan salt, and flecks of chili pepper. Don’t be surprised if after you’ve put away several other dishes, and you swear that there’s no room at the Stomach Inn, your hand continues to reach for these fiery little suckers.

I’ve yet to experience the roasted crab hand roll ($5), the grilled mackerel ($8), and the skirt steak skewer ($5), but I’m taking steps to correct this sorry situation. Stay tuned, and remember, anytime is snack time.

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Happy Hour: Bent Brick

Bent Brick does haute for less

Posted by: Sarah Moore on Feb 22, 2012 at 12:00PM 7 Comments

A perfect mating between old-world gentleman’s club charm and the ever-popular industrial aesthetic, wrapped in stone and ivy and moved to the Pacific Northwest, the Bent Brick is as seamlessly fashionable at Happy Hour (5-6:30 PM daily) as it is the rest of the day.

Cocktails during this twilit time are only $5, and though the selection is small, the choices are inspired: a simple G&T gussied up with house-made tonic; an Old Fashioned exuding house bourbon and a thick orange twist; a Moscow Mule made with vodka and lime and a kick of never-fresher ginger. Drinks come in buzz-friendly tumblers, hugging one giant ice cub apiece and smacking of simpler times. House red or white wine is also available for $4, and Astoria-born Fort George 1811 lager pounders for $3.

The snack selection (all $3) is equally small but tasty. Arranged on the classic jumble of rocks, mussels are served cold on the half shell with smoky aioli and a dab of spicy mignonette on top. Country ham rillettes marry with green tomato mustard and thin, oily (but not too oily!) slices of crunchy toast. A pickle plate awaits those with tangy proclivities and adventurous palates: among the offerings are beets, jicama and shrimp. And don’t be fooled by the crispy pork snacks, buffalo style…these aren’t your childhood pork rind, but something much nicer indeed.

While decadent, be prepared that none of the happy hour food is very filling, and eating anything more substantial will cost you. Small plates (such as clam chowder with sunchokes and seaweed ($10) or sweetbreads with cabbage, horseradish and bacon ($13)) are lovely but, as the name implies, not large; main dishes range from $19-22 and are limited. Other offerings include desserts for $8, candies for $2.50, and an extended cocktail list.

Still, the Bent Brick’s appeal lies not in large servings but in the care taken to prepare each dish, the hyper-local ethic and the dimly lit grace of its insides. A beautiful and well-stocked bar combine with an open kitchen and spacious layout to create the ideal watering hole, especially if you’re wearing nice duds and are on your way to somewhere fancy. Even if you aren’t, though, Happy Hour makes an otherwise spendy stop more than worthwhile.

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