Set ’Em Up, Joe
Tell me about your bartender
Posted by: John Chandler on Jun 22, 2010 at 11:00AM
7 Comments
Just got through perusing an article by bartender/writer Karl Kozel in the Huffington Post about the primary responsibilities of a good bartender. Kozel believes, and rightly so, that there’s more to the business than being able to concoct a drink with 11 ingredients.
Kozel recalls the past fondly: “…twenty or thirty years ago, good drinks were made, but the bartenders also had personalities, and many were unique characters. They were fast, facile, knowledgeable about current events, business, the arts, and were pretty good with their fists if they had to be. Thank god the era of fisticuffs is behind us for the most part, but you get the picture.”
Is this an accurate memory or is Kozel perhaps missing a movie cliché that simply does not exist? You know, that dapper fella who always knew what you were drinking and who let you run a tab when times were tight. The garrulous Irishman with a hearty laugh and a million stories. The wise-cracking sports statistic machine. The soulful ex-bar fly with better advice than Ann Landers. I spend time in a lot of bars and for the most part, the bartenders in this town are a fairly laconic bunch who go about their business promptly and professionally. Sure, they’ll gab for a bit about the Blazers or the weather or whatever, but their presence is usually required in about 50 other places, so conversations tend to be brief. For that matter, if I’m at a bar I’ve most likely brought my own company to banter with, or, if I’m alone, I prefer to stay that way.
Discuss drinking buddies: Do you appreciate a chatty bartender? Should they instinctively be like cab drivers and barbers and be able to hold up their end of a conversation on demand? Or do you just want the drink and no gab? Tell me about your favorite bartenders, local, factual, or idealized. As for me, I was always a big fan of Miss Laura May Carroll at the Matador, a veteran drink slinger who could talk your leg off about her pet mountain lion, if you wanted to listen—and if not, that was fine too. But she always remembered what I was drinking.
Tags: Cocktails Bar Culture
In my humble opinion, the most important part of a bartender’s job is to keep traffic flowing smoothly when things are busy. I’m probably saying this largely because I just had the frustrating experience a few days ago of being at a crowded bar and having to wait quite a while to get a server’s attention. And my friends and I were lucky enough to have seats right at the bar; heaven help us if we’d been a few rows back with the teeming hoards.
Obviously mixing a good drink is important too, but thankfully, it’s fairly rare that I get a cocktail I find anywhere near undrinkable, so I guess most booze-slingers in Portland must have this part down pretty well (or I’m just easy to please when it comes to alcohol, which is an equally plausible answer).
As for conversation, I’m with the BP on this one: I’m always at a bar with friends, so I don’t really care if the bartender is chatty or not. But I’m never one to turn up my nose at the opportunity for a bit more of a personal connection with my enabler.
Any good bar has its own personality and a bartender to match. Personally, I like them strict and impartial, like a judge. One of my favorite bartenders of all time was Toby, a husky voiced lady who poured stiff drinks and wouldn’t let us cuss. She also invited us all to her wedding- and it was in a bar!
I’m with Eric, I like the drinks to be efficient first. Then, if they have the time, chat. However, if it’s a slow night, and they need a conversation to pass the time—who am I to force them to read the menu for the bazzillionth time? Especially considering they probably memorized the thing on their first shift. And, extra points if they used to ride with the Hells Angels and are willing to share a couple yarns.
I’ve logged quite a bit of time on the customer side of the bar, but started bartending – in Melbourne, Australia, of all places – 2 1/2 years ago. Since then, I’ve developed an appreciation for the fine art of being behind the bar instead of on a barstool.
And it is a fine art – part efficiency, part party host. A good bartender is quick to recognize when you need a drink and to remember what your drink is. They’re able to chat when you want them to and give you your space when you need it. They know how to make you feel special without feeling like you’re being condescended to.
Good bartending is as much about setting and maintaining a vibe as it is about service. Having said that, some of my favorite bartenders (Bad Amy from Hattie’s/Loretta’s and Tom from the Comet, both in Seattle) are cranky and I love them for it. Ditto Scotty (who I worked with at the Brick Tavern in Roslyn) and Justin, my favorite co-worker from the Tote in Melbs.
Is it wrong to want service, sass and really strong drinks? I think not!
Cranky is fine in a bartender. Stingy with the booze in a state without pre-pour measures isn’t.
Good points all! I realize that expertise and competence pretty much trump everything, but I definitely have a soft spot in my heart for interesting and amiable barkeeps. Conversation is such a lost art. :(
Not a mixed drink drinker in the mix, but I do enjoy a fine beer pour from the chaps over at Bailey’s. They know what you’re drinking and aren’t afraid to tell you to get something else. I like knowledge and I like a friendly air that’s not too in your face. Too many a time when I do partake of a cocktail, a bartender has been all “what’s up brooooooo?!!!!!! DRANKZ!” I do not appreciate this. I want my drink strong, made well and with minimal hassle to me. Someone who takes pride in their work. Casual and relaxed enough to answer questions, chat a little and give recommendations, but not trying to be invited to our next family gathering.