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Legal Wrangling

Will Lawsuit Stem Suds Sales?

Beer at food carts continues to fuel unrest

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The Portland City Council is attempting to make good on its threats to fight the Oregon Liquor Control Commission over the granting of a liquor license to a SE Portland food cart pod. The council filed a lawsuit on May 10 citing that the OLCC lacks clear and specific rules for such an establishment, and that such practices could open the doors for the city’s food carts and enclosed pods to serve recklessly, resulting in “increased crime, traffic accidents, fatalities, public nuisances, or other harms to the public safety.”

The lawsuit comes on the heels of the first permanent license being granted to a non-brick-and-mortar establishment back in March, the enclosed pod of 17 food carts known as Cartlandia, located where the Springwater Corridor bicycle trail meets the sprawling strip-malls and car dealerships of 82nd Avenue.

When Cartlandia applied for its license, the OLCC sought advice from the Department of Justice, and it was decided that food carts and pods should follow the same guidelines as brick-and-mortar restaurants. OLCC Communications director Christy Scott says, “every license is a case-by-case basis, and the fitness of the location and business plan are carefully looked over to ensure success and contribution to the economy and community.”

Cartlandia’s application was deemed favorable in part due to the six-foot fence that surrounds the 45,000 square-foot space, and the pod’s compliance in establishing a designated space for consumption, in this case, a roped-off beer garden. Cartlandia also employs two monitors to ensure that all alcohol purchases accompany food, and stay within established boundaries. It is because Cartlandia adhered to clearly defined restrictions that they were granted a limited onsite-only liquor license. This is the same type of license used in many establishments that serve alcohol; including full-service restaurants, sidewalk cafes, taverns, and nightclubs. It’s also the type that allows New Seasons customers to purchase a beer and drink it if they decide to have a bite inside the store’s deli. As for the ominous threat of a flood of liquor license applications? Scott tells me that in seven weeks, only one other application has been filed.

City Councilman Amanda Fritz is on the record as saying, “When you’re looking at a neighborhood that is already challenged with some significant issues, adding outdoor liquor sales is probably not the best choice in that location—and I question whether it is at any location,”

In response, Cartlandia owner Roger Goldingay counters that his is a family friendly establishment that has seen no problems since they began serving beer in March. At this time, their license still holds, and with warm weather approaching, he is still hoping to boost business by continuing to offer cold ones with any food purchase. He cites “groundless fear” as to why the council is seeking to overturn the OLCC’s decision, and says it’s a bit confusing as to why Cartlandia has received so much attention; many carts and pods in other neighborhoods have been serving alcohol on-site for some time under temporary or extension liscenses, or by operating as a building within a pod. Examples are Pizza Depokos within The North Station pod (on N. Killingsworth), which operates as a restaurant because it’s a stationary site (no wheels). There’s also the Captured by Porches beer cart on SE Division, and the Hospitality Suite, a temporary cocktail-only cart that was open last fall at Cartopia on SE 12th and Hawthorne.

I talked briefly with Caryn Brooks, a spokesperson for Mayor Sam Adams, who couldn’t say much about the desired outcome of the cart-pod case, since it is now pending litigation. She did state that the issue is not about Cartlandia itself, but rather the ill-defined licensing criteria of the OLCC, and that Cartlandia could be used as an example of precendent. In the meantime, customers can continue to wash down their gyros with a cold beer at the oasis on SE 82nd Avenue known as Cartlandia, even as both sides continue to monitor its progress.

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Beer Bulletin

Craft Beer Calendar

Show love for artisan brewers by bringing home the good stuff

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Yes, it’s American Craft Beer Week, so on behalf of this burgeoning industry, I hereby request that you spend an extra buck or so on your next beer purchase at Freddy’s or New Seasons, and get better acquainted with a sixer of something from a nearby artisan brewery. Seriously, save the Coors Light for a barbecue with people you can’t stand. Another good way to show your support for the brewing community would be to attend one of these upcoming events that will feature their most crafty creations.

Apex Two-Year Anniversary Party: They must be doing something right; Draft magazine named Apex one of America’s Top 100 Beer Bars. With its digital menu of 50 draught beers, and enough outdoor seating to accommodate an Occupy sit-in, Apex has quickly established itself as a desirable drinking destination, not only for the bicycle brigade, but for anyone who wants to savor a magnificent pint of Adam from Hair of the Dog or something obscure from a far-flung Belgian monastery. This weekend, Apex will be unveil a “mind-blowing” tap list in honor of their second year, including a Rhubarb Crisp from local barrel-age specialists Cascade Brewing and a special Double Apex Double IPA brewed especially for the fest by Bear Republic.

Sixth Annual Brewers Memorial Ale Fest: Last year, more than 3,000 folks and some 800 dogs attended this fest located in lovely Newport, that began six years ago as a tribute to Brewer, the faithful canine companion of Rogue’s head brewer John Maier, who passed in 2006. This weekend, parched citizens can slake their thirsts with a variety of Rogue’s signature suds, and also shimmy and shake to live music—with or without your dog as a partner. Better still, get your pooch to enter the celebrity dog look-alike contest or get him decked out in designer duds for the Doggie Fashion Show.

Zoo Brew: Here’s a little advice on sensible consumption. If you’ve been vigorously sampling beers and ciders for a few hours, and suddenly realize that you’ve acquired the ability to communicate with the animals, it’s probably be time to slow down and switch to a water-based diet. More than 60 breweries will have selections on tap, including BridgePort, Full Sail, Lompoc, and Laurelwood. There will be carnival-style games and workshops on the finer points of brewing, as well.

Second Annual Portland Fruit Beer Festival: Twenty-five brewers from near and far will bring their finest ales to town for the second edition of this fruit-forward fest. Representatives from Upright, Commons, Gigantic, Dogfish Head, Burnside, and Deschutes, among others, have introduced raspberries, huckleberries, lemons, peaches, papayas, and anything else they can find on the vine, to their brews to spice things up a bit. Live music and food also will be part of the festivities.

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Beer Bulletin

Beer Lottery!

Win a year’s worth of beers from the Bend Ale Trail.

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Along with being an awe-inspiring outdoor playground of vast natural splendors, Central Oregon is also a tourist draw for its hoppin’ craft beer community that rivals any, including our own. The newly formed Central Oregon Brewers Guild is now selling tickets for a summer raffle to support the organization and promote the 10+ breweries located along the burgeoning Bend Ale Trail. One lucky winner will be the recipient of a holy grog jackpot of gift certificates, in increments of $200, from breweries like Deschutes, Bend Brewing, and Cascade Lakes, totaling approximately $2,400—equal to one free beer, every day of the year, for a year. Luckily, if you don’t happen to reside within regional convenience of Bend, you don’t have to be present to win this raffle, and you have a full year to use your prize on food, brews, merchandise, or anything else sold at the breweries. Do it all in one day (remember to drink reponsibly!), or plan several getaways to Central Oregon throughout the year—or just relocate. Once you’ve arrived there are several transportation options (including a 16-seat bicycle) to ferry you from pub to pub.

Raffle tickets are $10 each, and the drawing will take place at the Fermentation Celebration on July 12 in the Old Mill District. Visit BendAleTrail.com for complete rules and details, and to purchase your tickets.

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Beer Bulletin

Gigantic News!

Love and Havig are open for business today

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Restless beer drinkers should know that the freshly minted Gigantic Brewing Tap Room and Champagne Lounge will be open today at 3 p.m. Yes, the much ballyhooed business plan of brewers Ben Love (formerly of Hopworks) and the scholarly Van Havig (last seen at Rock Bottom Brewing) is finally ready for its public reveal. As noted by reporter Brandy Crowe in her report from the Oregon Garden Brewfest, Gigantic’s black saison, dubbed The City That Never Sleeps, was an instant sensation.

“The room was quickly abuzz about the Cascadian dark ale, sweet with dark fruit and slightly spicy (expect a spicy-chili version in the future), that cut the richness of the ribs, creating a refreshingly smooth counterpoint.” The beer went on to win the People’s Choice Award at the fest.

Love and Havig also will be pouring their sturdy Gigantic IPA, along with a pair of collaboration beers, the Hoppy Hoppy Nano, an Imperial IPA that was created in partnership with Breakside Brewing, and the Sammy Hagar-inspired Collabo-Wabo, that was born of an alliance with Oakshire Brewing. When queried as to the style of beer, Love replies, “It’s a Sammy Hagar beer. That’s all you need to know.” There’s also a keg of Upright Brewing’s Blend Love on tap, a barrel-aged sour from brewer Alex Ganum.

On the champagne front, Love and Havig have handed curatorial duties over to local cheese wizard Steve Jones, who will introduce “five or six” varieties. Be advised there is no food on the premises, so either arrive having eaten, or get something delivered. Regular hours will be Wed-Fri from 3-9; and Sat-Sun from 2-8. The Gigantic Tap Room is located at 5224 SE 26th Ave.

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Beer Bulletin

Slideshow: Oregon Garden Brewfest

Beer, Blooms, and Blitzen Trapper

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The sun peeking out onto the path from the Oregon Garden Resort into the gardens.

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The sun peeking out onto the path from the Oregon Garden Resort into the gardens.

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The menu for a six-course experience paired with delicious craft beers.

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The first course of Thursday evenings Brewers Dinner featured a sharp-four year old cheddar paired with Logsdon Farmhouse Ales “Seizoen Bretta”.

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Widmer Brothers Brewing’s Marionberry Hibiscus Gose is a colorful addition to the menu.

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The main course: Rich roasted beef short rib and root vegetables. Paired with People’s Choice Winner “The City Never Sleeps”—a robust cascadian dark ale from Portland’s Gigantic Brewing.

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Visitors can admire exotic growths while wandering the gardens, then hop on a passing shuttle to the Brewfest Pavillion.

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A line of anxious brew fans waiting to taste.

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Brewfest getting started.

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Abundant pitchers in The Orchid Room at The Oregon Garden Resort.

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Ben Love of Gigantic Brewing schooling the audience on their Imperial Black Saison, The City That Never Sleeps.

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Women Enjoying Beer giving some tips on tasting.

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Brownish Black setting the tone with some soul.

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A festival goer and Chris Nelson of Good Life Brewing during Friday’s Connoisseur Tasting.

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Brewer Nick from Block 15, holding their dark oat stout, Nebula.

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Headliners Blitzen Trapper rocked out the crowd.

Most of the big festivals celebrating the Northwest craft libations take place in Portland, Bend or some windswept spot on the Oregon Coast. But during the last weekend of April, The Oregon Garden Brewfest offers a central Willamette Valley location just past the little town of Silverton. Last weekend, the Garden Brewfest, now in it’s eighth year, welcomed a record-breaking crowd of over 6,000 beer hunters and thirsty citizens. Brewers and beeroisseurs mingled and sipped over 90 varieties of craft beer, geeked out on tasting demonstrations, and shook their mugs to a sweet lineup of live music featuring Portland stalwarts Weinland and headliners Blitzen Trapper—all set amidst a lush 80 acre botanical garden.

The fest kicked off on Thursday evening with a fundraiser for the Garden, an intimate brewers dinner in which a coursed meal of six scrumptious plates were paired up with six craft beers, each introduced in detail by the brewers as they were being poured. A fruity, pear infused, pinot-barrel aged Seizoen Bretta by Logsdon Farmhouse Ales complimented aged cheeses; the sweetness of a bacon dressing over warm potato salad was evident when combined with Seven Brides Rose’s Imperial Pilsner, and a spring salad was accompanied by a very fuschia Marionberry Hibiscus Gose, which by all appearances was supposed to be tart and sweet, but was actually light and crisp. The main entrée, a braised beef short rib, slow roasted with root vegetables demi-glace, was paired with an imperial black saison named The City Never Sleeps, by Portland’s new Gigantic Brewing: a collaboration between Ben Love (formerly of Hopworks), and Van Havig (once the head brewer at Rock Bottom). Ben worked the room into laughter as he explained that Gigantic had been brewing for about…3 weeks. The beer was brand new, yet it was the star of the show. The room was quickly abuzz about the Cascadian dark ale, sweet with dark fruit and slightly spicy (expect a spicy-chili version in the future), cut the richness of the ribs, creating a refreshingly smooth counterpoint.

Not only did they wow the diners, but Gigantic Brewing’s “City” also won The People’s Choice for the entire festival.

Other honorable mentions were Uinta’s Duhbe Imperial Black Ale, Seven Brides Becky’s Black Cat Porter, and Calapooia’s Chili Beer.

Upon receiving my glass and tasting tickets I set off to sample my own battery of brews.
These were my picks:

Gilgamesh; “Vader”: Started the day with this black IPA/coffee stout. Resiny hop aromas, rich espresso flavors, and a peppery finish.

Block 15; “Nebula”: Hints of fresh coffee, dark chocolate and caramel with a velvet brown head. Golden naked oats provide a sweet-nut flavor and a satiny mouthfeel.

Good Life Brewing; “Mountain Rescue Pale Ale”: Somewhere between an amber ale and an IPA, it had a balanced body and spicy finish.

Tieton Ciderworks; “Apricot Cider”: I wanted to finish a little sweeter, so I decided to try one of the cider booths. The Apricot sounded enticing, but while it started out crisp, it went a little more sour than flavorful, and probably needed to be chilled longer.

Gilgamesh; “DJ Jazzy Heff”: I circled back to try the other beer by Gilgamesh. A jasmine tea-infused Hefeweizen, citrus and herbal notes and just the right amount of hops. Light, spritzy, and perfect for warm days.

The event combines two of my favorite things, beer and gardening, and is scheduled during a convenient time of year for a relaxing getaway. In between drinks or waiting for festivities to begin, myself and many festival goers wandered throughout the gardens to view exotic flowers, and native wildlife. Some visitors made a weekend of it by staying at The Oregon Garden’s resort: well landscaped, cottage-style accommodations with private patios, and a lodge featuring a full spa, event space, and a restaurant with live music. Just a short drive away are opportunities to take fun pictures in fields of blooming tulips, trekking a waterfall hike, or exploring the Oktoberfest village of Mt. Angel. The Ninth Annual Oregon Garden Brewfest will take place April 26 & 27, 2013. Start making plans!

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Beer Bulletin

Vote Early (and Often)

Asheville, Shmashville. Portland is Beer City USA!

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Image courtesy of SixPackTech.com

It’s that time of year when Examiner.com conducts its beer survey to determine which town will snag the coveted title of Beer City USA. How Portland (or Bend, for that matter) isn’t dominating this damn thing is beyond comprehension.The best recent showing we’ve managed was a TIE for first in 2009 with Asheville, NC (a lovely city, to be sure), who has subsequently won the voting three years in a row.

Come on drinking buddies, are we going to let someone steal our rightful thunder again? Though it’s hard not to go on a crazy mud-slinging campaign against Asheville (especially since I can’t remember ever drinking a beer from the place that’s owned the title for three years running), that’s not what I’m about. I’m calling on you and yours to stuff this ballot box to bursting. Let’s do this thing! Voting is open till May 13. We are Beer City USA!

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Beer Bulletin

Brew Days Rising

A bounty of beer fests on the horizon

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With the sun tentatively peeking out from behind the cloud cover, the time has come for rabid brew festival fanatics to start their engines. Just make sure someone else drives you home.

8th Annual Oregon Garden Brewfest
What: This annual botanical garden beer festival features over 40 breweries pouring 100 brews to the beat of live music, as well as tasting instruction from Women Enjoying Beer and an Oregon Garden Homebrew Competition.
When: Friday April 27-28 from noon to 11 pm.
Where: The Oregon Garden, 879 West Main St, Silverton, Oregon
How Much: For pre-orders, a one-day tasting package (including admission, tasting mug, 7 tasting tickets, and priority entrance) is $15, two-day tasting package (admission, mug, 14 tasting tickets, and priority entry) is $25.
Admission for both days, tasting mug, 14 tasting tickets, and quicker entry at the Brewfest. Admission will be the same price at the door, with fewer tasting tickets. Tickets available here.

2nd Annual GermanFest
What: An abundance of German style beers brewed by Oregon breweries, including Alameda, Amnesia, Block 15, The Commons, Heater Allen, and more.
When: Saturday, April 28 from 4 PM to 11:30 PM
Where: Bailey’s Taproom, 213 SW Broadway
How Much: There are a limited number of advance VIP (2 PM entry) tickets for $25. These tickets include a souvenir stein and six tastes but also allow entrance two hours earlier from 2-4 PM, providing a less frenzied experience as well as guaranteeing a seat somewhere in a far less crowded bar. Tickets include a “light buffet” and ODG tasting glass. (21+ only). Tickets available here

Breakside Brewery 2nd Anniversary Party
What: A celebratory beer blast in recognition of two years of superior mad scientist-style brewing and first-rate pub grub. In addition to regular house brews, 8-10 additional beers will be available outside in the beer tent, including a special Gin Barrel-Aged 2nd Anniversary Sour Golden. There also will be live music and guest “celebrity” chefs cooking at the outside grill.
When: Saturday, May 12, from 1 PM to 7 PM
Where: Breakside Brewery, 820 NE Dekum St.
How Much: $15 for a commemorative tasting glass and five drink tickets for the outside beer tent.

10th Annual Sasquatch Brewfest
What: A single-day collection of the finest craft-brewed beers in the Pacific Northwest and a memorial/fundraising event for the late Eugene brewer Glen Hay Falconer and the Glen Hay Falconer Foundation. a nonprofit organization staffed by the Falconer family with a mandate to support craft brewing by providing brewing scholarships.
When: Saturday, May 12, from noon to 10:30 PM
Where: Eugene Hilton, 66 E. Sixth Ave, Eugene
How Much: $10 for a commemorative tasting glass and two drink tickets.

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Happy Hour

The YOLO Lowdown

Swanky lounge offers Happy Hour at premium prices.

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The YOLO blends in with its surroundings.

As an underemployed and overly thrifty Portlander, I mark certain menus for death with the brand HHINO: Happy Hour in Name Only. Sure, if you want to be able to say, “I got drinks at a happy hour tonight,” the YOLO Lounge (412 SW Fourth Ave) can quantifiably do that, but if you actually want to tuck into some quality eats and drinks for a few dollars less, the YOLO ought to be close to the bottom of your list.

The YOLO (short for You Only Live Once) doesn’t seem comfortable in its own clothes. It passes the standard Portland high-life lounge test, replete with two-tone color scheme (one of those colors being black), couches, candles and a menu plucked from another country’s dinner table. But the party-life atmosphere of the YOLO seems ill-matched for the international cuisine that deserves to be highlighted.

Inside The interior is endearingly dopey, like a nightclub set from a second-tier Bond film. A gigantic tile fresco looms over the bar, and I’m 99 percent positive the artist nabbed the image from—I’m being serious here—the cover of the Memoirs of A Geisha DVD. A flatscreen TV positioned right above the bar plays clips from what looked like a straight-to-video Koyaanisqatsi sequel directed by Brett Ratner. Even on first encounter the YOLO seems a bit exposed in the light of day; the room looks purpose-built for dimly lit nights with the music turned up loud enough to make you shout at your date. If a 40-year-old DJ Pauly D. matured (and sobered) up, one could imagine him brainstorming the YOLO Lounge.

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Inside the YOLO. And, that is the cover of the Memoirs of a Geisha DVD, right?

Drinks The grim Happy Hour drink selection is meager at best. You can pick from three beers ($4 each), three wines ($5) or two sakes ($5). None of the cocktails come at a discounted rate, and cost about twice as much as their Happy Hour counterparts. I split a sake and a beer with my cohort, coming to a decision (from our eight options) with gracious help from our waitress. Props to a Portland nightlife bar that includes Ninkasi on tap, which paired exceedingly well with the…

Food If YOLO didn’t seem to cater exclusively to people who attend DJ nights, it could breeze by on its food selection. While the Happy Hour menu paled in comparison to the rest of the menu, the tuna and crab rolls were excellent. Only the traditional rolls and some appetizers come at a discount, which is fine because the rolls are the one true deal on the menu. Eight top-notch rolls for $5 even bests the price for Fred Meyer’s dubious sushi. However, just like the rest of the menu, the deals are significantly outnumbered by the expensive full-price dishes.

Sushi

You can’t fault the YOLO on presentation.

Bottom Line If price is no object, then the YOLO Lounge will serve to your delights (also, why are you looking at a happy hour review?). Crowds vary from day to day—attendance peaked at about 5 p.m. for the Tuesday afternoon I attended, but the club is known to get pretty packed with bridge-and-tunnel turistas on the weekends. The waitstaff couldn’t have been more gracious, but the menu didn’t have the deals that my skinny wallet was craving. If your car breaks down, say, within a two-block radius of the YOLO and you just have to have a beer to calm your nerves, then yes, the YOLO will suffice. The sushi, however, warrants a second look, and if you find yourself in need of some snazzy seafood at a very decent price, then the YOLO has what you need. Just go get drinks somewhere else after.

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Rocking The Clubs

Karaoke From Hell

How a gritty cover band set the standard for nightlife in Portland

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They may look like decent, hardworking Americans, but the members of Karaoke From Hell have been known to stay up very late at night.

I love karaoke and and I can sing the heck out of moldy oldies like “Radar Love” and “Everybody’s Talkin’”. But in this town you can’t claim any serious karaoke cred—or indulge in any kind of meaningful rock star fantasy—unless you’ve jumped onstage with Karaoke From Hell (that’s the band handle as well as the name of the twice weekly event) and channeled your inner Iggy while being backed by a razor-sharp band of Portland musicians. “We know over 500 songs, if you count Christmas carols,” says rhythm guitarist and backing singer Dawn Panttaja.

Panttaja founded the group 20 years ago this Memorial Day, and since that time more than 50 local musicians have passed through the revolving door as band members. “Our earliest gigs were at Satyricon, and for the first several shows we had a different band each time,” she recalls.

Doesn’t that make it hard to rehearse? “We never rehearse. We just send around the charts and MP3s,” she explains.

The group holds court twice a week; Mondays at Dante’s and Thursdays at the Tiger Bar, with a now steady rotation of 12 band members. Monday nights at Dante’s are usually orchestrated by local bon vivant and Voodoo Donut impresario Tres Shannon, who sings, plays harmonica, kazoo, and assorted percussion instruments while ordinary working stiffs get a chance to front the band, singing everything from Abba to the Zombies. Not that the occasional celebrity doesn’t happen by. “Pink sang ‘Me & Bobby McGee,’ Deborah Iyall from Romeo Void did ’It’s My Party,’ and one of the guys from Insane Clown Posse covered ‘Tracks of My Tears’. The bigger the star, the more likely they are to sing some old standard,” Panttaja notes.

In recognition of 20 years of quality entertainment, Karaoke From Hell is currently running a $1000 Karaoke Contest, which will harvest five finalists from each of three consecutive Monday night preliminary performances at Dante’s for a final showdown at Star Theater on Friday, April 27. This coming Monday, the competition will begin at 10 p.m. as there’s a separate concert starting at 8 p.m. “So don’t arrive early for Karaoke From Hell, because you probably won’t get in before that,” warns Panttaja.

A side note: One of the “celebrity” judges at next Monday’s shindig will be yours truly. Stop by and say “Hi!” if you’re in the house. And if you are, you might want to dress sharp, since Chip Mabry’s film crew has been following Karaoke From Hell for the last year and a half. You may know Mabry for his gutsy 2010 documentary Brutal Beauty: Tales of the Rose City Rollers. In any case, try not to embarrass yourself or me. “Shows like American Idol and The Voice, make normal people the focus of our entertainment. I think more people should get up and sing, because they channel something amazing when they do,” Panttaja says. Just ask Pink or that dude from Insane Clown Posse.

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Tags: Dante's, Karaoke From Hell, Tres Shannon

Beer Bulletin

Can-Do Attitude

Actor Adrian Grenier joins Portland’s Justin Hawkins to launch a pilsner in a flattop can.

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Churchkey

Justin Hawkins and Adrian Grenier show off their cans.

Last Thursday night at Dig-A-Pony was a mob scene of people lined up to taste the new beer on the block from Churchkey Can Co., while at the same time swaying to ’50s R&B and straining to get a glimpse of a Hollywood celebrity in their midst. Earlier, when I told my friends I was going to a release party for a new Northwest beer, the response was underwhelming: Just another case of beer snobs yakking the night away about IBUs, yeasts, and mouthfeel. Yawn!

But Churchkey stands out in a crowd for a couple of reasons: It arrives in a vintage container not seen for half a century; really shiny flattop steel cans that require a can opener (or “church key”) to crack open. Oh, and one of the co-founders is handsome actor Adrian Grenier, who played Vinnie Chase on the HBO series Entourage.

During a visit to Portland in the Summer of 2010, Grenier was introduced to local designer Justin Hawkins during dinner and drinks at Clyde Common. The two bonded over a chat about the glorious yester-years of brewing in America, including the charm of vintage beer can designs. This turned into an idea, that grew into a plan that was nurtured by research that revealed the flattop cans had long been extinct and had not yet been revived in an era celebrating manliness, Mad Men, and mid-century design. Grenier and Hawkins sought out reputable local brewers Sean Burke and Lucas Jones to develop the recipe for the pilsner, which is brewed and canned out of Seattle’s Two Beers Brewing Company. After getting the ball rolling with the Ball Corporation to fabricate 12 oz flattop recyclable steel cans, Hawkins and Grenier tapped beverage industry expert Ryan Soward as Churchkey CEO.

It’s easy to dismiss the packaging as a nostalgic marketing strategy, but the sleek teal with gold lettering design on the cans is easy on the eyes, and each heavy six-pack comes with its very own can opener. It’s a tad pricey at $9.99 a six-pack—and $3 to 5 dollars a can at local bars—yet a Maletis beverage distribution rep told me that, so far, the demand from local businesses is greater than the supply.

Could hipsters eventually tire of having to work to open their beer, especially after having a few? I received a quick lesson from a Dig-A-Pony’s bartender, and after a little practice, and watching others helplessly stab at their cans, I felt empowered and kind of bad-ass cracking open Churchkeys for friends and myself. As for the beer within, the slogan is “It’s worth the effort.” The light-bodied lager, made with a Czech Pils yeast and German Saaz hops, is described by Churchkey as “complex yet sessionable.” Jones and Burke, (the latter of whom is fresh from beer school in Germany and now a star brewer at The Commons Brewery ), have definitely made a solid, easily quaffed pilsner. After puncturing the two triangular holes into the airtight can, there is an inviting escape of foam. I find the taste to be very creamy with shades of vanilla along with a clean bitterness, and a finish that Justin Hawkins calls “Christmas,” a very flavorful, yet mild note of wintery pine.

Even after staying out really, really late, Hawkins and Grenier were up early on the morning following the release party with a full itinerary of events to share Churchkey with citizens across Portland. Switching to fresh-brewed Stumptown at the Ace Hotel, the pair were kind enough to answer a few questions.

How did you two meet and decide to make a beer company?

Adrian: I was in Portland about a year and a half ago, and we got together through a mutual friend. We were just having a few beers, got into a discussion of how America drank beer in the past and how beer used to come in the flattop cans. We thought it would be great to experience beer that way again.

Justin: By the end of dinner we were in business.

Adrian: We started to research if anyone had done the concept, and were surprised that they hadn’t. Not even Olympia or PBR.

Why a pilsner?

Justin: A lot of people seem to like pilsner and we like pilsner, but it seems like there is not a lot of it, even in Portland. It’s harder to find.

Adrian: Craft pilsner is hard to find.

Where do you source your ingredients?

Justin: Most of the ingredients come locally, but we get the Saaz hops straight from Germany.

One of your brewers, Sean Burke, just got back from beer school in Germany and is now brewing at The Commons Brewery.

Adrian: Sean is a star, he keeps coming up for being really good at what he does. We’re lucky to have him.

Justin: I actually traveled to Germany to visit Sean and toured Doemens Academy. We wanted the best, we knew of Sean and Lucas, and approached them about the idea. They developed a great recipe. (To Adrian):The Commons is amazing, we have to go there today.

Justin, did your design experience with Nike and Wieden + Kennedy help to conceptualize the the packaging?

Adrian: I just have to say, Justin’s ability to easily relay his ideas, to visualize them onto paper, and articulate them out loud, is what moved us forward.

Where can you purchase Churchkey right now?

Justin: Six-packs are available at Belmont Station and a couple of bottle shops around town, we will be in bars by the next week or two.

Adrian: Then we can do a bar crawl!

Justin: Really?

What if you lose your church key? Would it be an excuse to get another six-pack?

Justin: Well, that’s the fun part. We enjoy challenging people to innovate.

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Tags: Adrian Grenier, Flattop Cans, Churchkey Can Co., Pilsner, Sean Burke, Dig-A-Pony

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Blackbird Wine & Atomic Cheese

Andy Diaz offers “Hours of Happiness” and has plans for the Pearl

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While recently passing through picturesque Beaumont Village, a flash of streamlined chrome caught my eye. Among the crafty gift shops and a neighborhood hardware store, two signs hang above an entrance, popping with yellow and black against the gray. One a blackbird, the other a fallout symbol made out of cheese wedges. It reads: Blackbird Wine, Atomic Cheese!

It didn’t take much arm-twisting for me to decide that I would tarry a moment, trading the drear and rain for a respite of rich dark wine and artisan dairy products. I wandered in past a sign announcing the “Hours of Happiness” to an open space of natural wood bar tops and tables, bold splashy art, and stainless steel. The walls are stocked with wine; New World on one side, Old World on the other, with Oregon and Washington wines at eye level beneath a large classroom map of the world.

Right away I am welcomed by owner Andy Diaz and offered a selection of about 10 open wines. Out of the Tempernillos and Toscanos, French and Argentine, my host suggests a pour of Evodia’s 2010 Old Vine Grenache from Spain: a smooth, gamey red with notes of cinnamon and coffee, sourced from vines planted over a century ago. This is a wine shop with accessories, chocolates, olives, oils and spreads, but also a wine bar/café with wines on tap, a beer selection in a well stocked fridge, and a counter full of enticing cheeses and charcuterie items from around the world, as well as from Seattle cheesemakers Beechers and local meat artisans Chop. These gourmet deli ingredients are put work in the open kitchen to construct a variety of hot melty sandwiches, such as sopressata with caramelized onion marmalade or taleggio with mushrooms, all made on bread from local bakery Little T. You can add a green salad with roasted beets, or sweeten the deal with the reportedly raved about Toasted Chocolate Sandwich.

The Happy Hour specials (4pm-7pm, Tues-Sat) are priced somewhat higher than traditional bar fare, but for a wine lover on a budget this shop, with its array of over 300 labels and international meats and cheeses, has prices and an atmosphere that are friendly. Diaz calls it “controlled hedonism.” Most bottles are in the $20 range, with glasses of select wines running $6-7. Charcuterie dishes are great for sharing; you can build your own cheese plates or order off of the menu (try the Paris Plate), and a generous sampling of delectable meats can be added for just $5. The Perfect Pairs portion of the menu offers high-end selections of cheese and/or meats (say $30/lb) paired with a recommended glass of wine for $12 . There are also special events: wine tastings every Thursday and Friday nights, First Wednesday art openings, and a special literary geek gathering on Second Tuesdays that involves hanging out and enjoying wine and beer, having something from the kitchen (specials such as lamb osso buco) and writing improv short stories that are shared and voted on for prizes of food and drink.

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Andy Diaz talks shop at Blackbird Wine/Atomic Cheese

In the kitchen under a floor-to-ceiling blackboard on which Diaz has rendered Portland under a cheese moon, he prepares me a plate stocked full of various cheeses including blue and triple cream brie, pate with truffles, fresh pears, olives, and marcona almonds. He grates lemon zest and fresh pepper into olive oil for dipping Little T’s salt slab foccacia, and asks if I eat meat, and if I like spicy before he slices marbled prosciutto and Chop’s spicy soppressata to go with a glass of tart, peppery Sangiovese.

A former video producer whose bio includes filming a Puerto Rico episode of No Reservations with his friend Anthony Bourdain, Diaz’s passion for food and wine and Portland’s easier affordability led him here from New York City back in 2007. He has been sharing small vineyard wines since opening his first bottle shop in the Lower Fremont/Beaumont area, which he later expanded to include his second venture, Atomic Cheese! and moved around the corner into the current, larger space.

And he’s a busy man. During my visit Diaz multitasks through three visiting wine distributors offering him everything from vegan wines to voignier, and a cheesecake vendor sharing samples of cocoa cheesecake which we spontaneously pair with a spring heralding rosé from Southern France. As the head cook stops in to discuss a new menu, Diaz’s cell phone rings, and as soon as he hangs up the store phone rings. This pattern goes on for a while, possibly due to temtative plans for a second bistro location in the Pearl (details are still emerging). Mornings are planned to feature specialty hot breakfasts and coffee, in collaboration with Northeast neighbors and exotic coffee roasters Ristretto, shifting in the afternoons and evenings into a wine and cheese bar serving Diaz’s gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches, along with a brand-new tapas menu. I, for one, will make it a stop on my eating itinerary.

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Food and Drink Festivals

Spring Spirits Guide

Spring is overflowing with festivities under glass.

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It may be gray again tomorrow, but an annual rite of spring approaches: festival season. Spring brings all sorts of spirit soirees, new releases, and garden parties that seek to awaken our senses and twitter-pate the palate with the siren song of craft beer, crisp wine, and rare artisan alcohol paired with culinary delights, to help us shake off the Seasonal Affective Disorder.

Even if it’s still a touch stormy out, tonight you may feed your need for barbecue at North45 Pub for another installment of their Brewhog blast, a weekly event where you can still enjoy a a mess of ribs hot off the grill inside a tented heated patio, and swille $3 pints from a guest brewer. For the finale, the Brewhog Blowout on April 14, all of the 21 participants convene with their craft brews, including Captured by Porches, Amnesia, Lagunitas, Mad River, and Migration Brewing. (517 NW 21st Ave)

Upright Brewing will also be at the Brewhog Blowout, but first they celebrate their 3rd Anniversary, Mar 30, with a shindig sharing all of their superb, full-bodied beers, including the release of a limited bottling run of Blend Love, a floral, peachy, wheat ale blended with a rich, raspberry laden rye ale that is ideal for the season. (240 N. Broadway)

Maybe one of you likes beer and the other is a wine snob, or maybe you both dig beer and wine. Have a fling with the Northwest’s best brewers and vintners at the annual Spring Beer and Wine Festival, which features over 30 breweries passing out samples of their finest suds, and two-dozen local wineries pouring pinots. Foodies can get schooled by the pros and then eat the homework at the Chef’s Stage, or take in some drink-appropriate tunes while a handful of local distillers mix it up at the Hip Sips lounge. There’s also a tour de cheese and chocolate, which in past years has been known to include the appearance of Zombie Easter Bunnies. Admission is free for the first 1000 visitors each day.
(Oregon Convention Center, 777 NE MLK Jr. Blvd)

With the boom of Izakayas and the only American owned Sake Brewery producing out of Forest Grove, Portland welcomes back SakeFest PDX, the only event in the region dedicated to the education and enjoyment of this fresh, ancient beverage crafted from finely polished rice. Brush up on your Japanese while sipping from over 80 varieties of local and international sake, plum wine, and Japanese beer, and expect some fresh spring-time sake-tini’s at the free after party. The all-natural beverage is so much more than a sushi sipper; fine sakes are chilled and versatile with cheeses, chocolates, and a variety of cuisines. More than 15 prominent chefs from local restaurants such as Park Kitchen, Biwa, and Wildwood are on board for pairings. Kanpai! (Governor Hotel, 614 SW 11th Ave)

Over 60 regional beer barons and aspiring homebrewers will compete at the Cheers for Belgian Beers festival. Each brewer takes this year’s preselected yeast strain, and then does their own thing to create a unique version of Belgian inspired deliciousness. You will help to judge the best brews at Metalcraft Fabriction, a funky, industrial space that specializes in brew tanks and has enough room for the masses to enjoy plenty of elbow room. (4602 NE 31st Ave)

For a scenic Spring Break road-trip, consider a getaway to The Oregon Garden Brewfest in Silverton. Stroll through the garden’s waterfalls and ponds, then step inside to enjoy fountains of beer from some 40 Northwest brewers, in tune to a soundtrack of live music from the likes of Blitzen Trapper, The Ty Curtis Band, and Weinland. The event also features a homebrewers competition, tasting and pairing classes, and as a fundraiser for the Oregon Garden, a Brewers Dinner will be held on Brewfest Eve in which ticket holders can belly up to an intimate six-course dinner paired with beer and insights from six of the festivals most prominent brewmasters. (879 W Main St, Silverton)

If something a little stronger suits you, Portland will be hosting the largest collection of artisan spirits in the country for this year’s T.O.A.S.T. (The Oregon Artisan Spirits Tasting). From absinthe to whisky, more than 50 local, national, and international artisan producers will offer selections from virtually every spirit category. Sip in style beneath the angled windows of the World Trade Center’s Sky Bridge Terrace, experience them in craft cocktail recipes that seasoned bartenders will share with you, and, thanks to recent legislation, it is now permissible to purchase your favorite fifths to take home via the Bottle Shop. (121 SW Salmon St)

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