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plant of the week

Flowering Maple

One of the most luscious plants of late summer. And fall. And winter.

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Abutilon megapotamicum. Image courtesy of Thompson & Morgan.

Flowering maples – members of the genus Abutilon – aren’t easy to categorize. They are perennial, semi-evergreen shrubs, sometimes acting like deciduous perennials, they are climbers, and some tender types are used as summer annuals… the diversity of Abutilon size, form and flower color makes them incredibly versatile.

Their striking flowers contribute greatly to the summer, fall and even winter garden and they bloom forever – often right up until the winter holidays if there isn’t a deep freeze. Their lantern-shaped flowers come in a vast range of colors, from pastels (pink, peach, cream, soft red, pale yellow) and white to sizzling oranges, yellows, blood red, and hot pink. Depending on their genetic inheritance (ie, which species are in their “bloodline”), they can range from little 2-foot cuties (like Abutilon ’Li’l Red’) to 8 foot wonders like Abutilon megapotamicum.

Did I mention they are a beloved nectar source for hummingbirds?

Flowers can be elongated, slender pendants (as with Abutilon megapotamicum) or more open and flattened – very tropical looking, in either case.

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Abutilon ‘Canary Bird’. Photo courtesy of Plant Delights Nursery.

Foliage can be wide and palm-shaped, vaguely like our native vine maple leaf, or slender and elongated. Some forms (not cold-hardy) have gold or cream variegated leaves.

Flowering maples love sun, rich soil, and plenty of moisture in summer. Having said that, if you give them plenty of moisture and rich soil when young, you can get away with some neglect later, once its established.

Plant tall Abutilon types at the back of a bed, behind other sturdy shrubs. That way, you don’t have to look at the twigs in spring and other shrubs help protect the plants from winter cold. Although not technically a vine, Abutilon tend to clamber and weave through other shrubs and it creates a lovely effect when the bell-shaped flowers appear through the foliage of the support shrub. Abutilon are especially nice planted on the south or west side of a structure – they can flower right into December in a protected spot. Smaller types are fantastic in summer containers, as they flower continuously, like any annual plant.

Pick a reasonably cold-hardy, Zone 8a (10-15F) variety like Abutilon megapotamicum and its cultivars, get it through the first winter and you’ll enjoy your Abutilon for years to come. Or pick whichever one tickles your fancy – most are listed at Zone 8b (15-20F) or into Zone 9 – and relish the showy flowers all summer and fall. (It will be a bonus if it comes back next year.) Sometimes they come back even when by all rights they should have died! A few A. megapotamicum cultivars including the one called Red surprised me by returning hale and hearty this spring.

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Abutilon ‘Ginger Bomb’. Photo courtesy of Xera Plants.

If planting an Abutilon you hope to overwinter, don’t fertilize it from mid-August on and mulch it well after the first frost of the season (usually late October/early November).

In the perfect world, you’d plant your Abutilon in spring so it has a full season to establish a strong root system. But it’s nearly impossible to find abutilons in the nurseries in the spring – they look like bundles of sticks in a pot in April and May so you’ll rarely even see them on nursery shelves. Shop for them now, while they’re in full bloom, mulch them well through their first winter, and cross your fingers for a sweeter winter than we had last year.

Sources:

Cistus Design Nursery, Sauvie Island
Garden Fever Nursery, NE Fremont & 24th Ave (along with the Portland Nursery on Stark Street, they carry the best selection of plants from wholesaler Xera Plants, which grows a great selection of Abutilon.
Plant Delights Nursery, Raleigh, North Carolina (mail order)

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Tags: Flowers, Plant of the Week

horticultural ed

Design Tips from Dan Hinkley

notes from the 2010 PPA conference in Portland

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Plant explorer, gardener and witty fellow Dan Hinkley giving a talk at Cistus Design Nursery in 2009. I was so rapt listening to him talk the other day at the PPA conference that I forgot to pull out my camera.

I try to avoid joining groups and engaging in activities where I have to wait in lines, sit in chairs for hours at a time and dutifully clap between endless rounds of announcements.

But late last week, I got a call from the plant-savvy Dan Heims, owner of Terra Nova Nursery, breeder and wholesale producer of new perennial plants (especially famous for Heuchera and Echinacea). He was at the Doubletree Hotel at Lloyd Center where the Perennial Plant Association was holding its annual conference. “You need to get down here,” he said. “there are some really cool containers in the lobby that you should see…”

This is not the first time Mr. Heims has egged me into getting my sorry self to attend an official horticulture-related conference – and I must say, I’ve always been glad I went when all was said and done. So I huffed over to the Doubletree Hotel at Lloyd Center lobby on Thursday, only to learn that Dan Hinkley – superstar plant explorer and lecturer – would be speaking that afternoon. I had no option: I joined the PPA and forked over an additional $75 to hear the afternoon’s remaining lectures. All previous plans fell by the wayside.

As well as the containers designed by local nurseries on display in the lobby, there were several other lectures to attend before Dan Hinkley’s time at the lectern: I learned about the best performing garden bamboos from wholesaler Boo-Shoots owner Jackie Heinricher (good resources on that website, especially about good clumping bamboos) and about the complexities of fern nomenclature from the irresistible and outspoken Judith Jones of Fancy Fronds. (She’s the ultimate fern advocate and her website fern descriptions are enough to make even the most mediterranean-oriented gardener fall in love with ferns.) But I’m a sucker for Dan Hinkley’s talks because he always sneaks some crazily beautiful rare plants into his presentations and, well… he’s so funny!

His talk was titled “Plant Marriages: Exceptional Combinations Using Foliage Aspects”.

He opened his talk by asking: How do you place plants to make them sing?

He showed slides from his old garden at Heronswood: the first, what he called “a vomitous combination” of perennials in a border, with no structure or grace. It was, he said, “like a large whale had washed up on shore and rotted”. He showed an image of the same border a year later, when he’d made some improvements. It was okay but, as he pointed out, no great shakes. His third image, taken a few years later, demonstrated what he’d learned in the intervening years: to build balance, height differentials, foliar texture, and repetition (of color or plant form) into his gardens. So how did he do it?

His talk outlined three simple garden design principles he had used to make his borders “sing”:

- Punctuation (a bold-leafed plant)
Sometimes adding just one bold-leafed plant like a cardoon (Cynara sp., Gunnera sp., Darmera peltata, Nicotiana sylvestris, or Fatsia can completely shift the look from drab to dazzling. For his audience, he digitally altered the photo of the garden, adding and subtracting various large-leaved plants to show what a difference its presence made. Wow!

- Exclamation (a “statement” plant)
Whether used as a single statement (look at me!, says a dramatic clump of bright red, 5-foot tall Lobelia tupa) or a sustained conversation used throughout the garden to break up the sky (scattered Green Arrow Chamaecyparis nootkatensis or narrow holly (Ilex crenata‘Sky Pencil’), exclamation plants need breathing room and will lose their punch if crowded. But are brilliant at creating the sense of height and dimension in a space by drawing the eye upward. Again, he popped plants in and out digitally and the difference was extraordinary.

- Accentuation (repetition of particular plants or plant colors or textures)
This is the hardest principle to enact for those of us who are plant collectors. But it’s one of the best – and easiest – ways to tie a garden together by creating a common link and knitting the whole together. I liked his observation that you can actually borrow a color in a neighbor’s yard and build on it in your own yard. He also added that repetition doesn’t have to come from plants but can be created by placing similarly colored pots throughout a garden, hanging buoys or lanterns, stoneware balls, or other objects that are meaningful to you and the site. The digital appearance and disappearance of objects helped illustrate his point.

If you haven’t done it before, remember that the old-fashioned method of simply shifting potted plants in and out of your own garden to see how they look in various spots works perfectly well when designing. It’s nice to give yourself a few days to live with something in a particular spot to see if you like it there. Just remember to water it while you’re deciding!

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Tags: Gardening Events, Garden Design, Plant People

things to do

Waterlily Festival, Tour de Coops, Chicken Class and 40% Off Plants!

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A (tiny) bucolic scene from Hughes Water Gardens

There’s a bunch going on in the gardening world, starting tonight.

This weekend, Hughes Water Gardens is holding their 8th Annual Waterlily Festival and Invitational Art Show. The artists’ reception is this evening from 6:30 to 8:30 pm. Stroll through the water gardens, meet the artists, and enjoy music, wine and appetizers. Address: 25289 SW Stafford Rd., Tualatin OR 97062. Events continue on Saturday with talks, tours and sales and information booths devoted to garden restoration, on Sunday with artists’ demonstrations and more events, and into the week that follows.

The Tour de Coops is happening on Saturday July 24th from 11 am to 3 pm. Twenty-five chicken owners around Portland open their yards so you can see their coops and meet their chickens. This benefit event for Growing Gardens consists of a self-guided tour with stops all over East Portland – you can decide where to start and finish. Cost: $15 and there’s a raffle for two stylish chicken coops, as well as gift certificates donated by local nurseries and feed stores.

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A happy chook at Naomi’s Organic Farm Supply this spring

Buy your tickets today at Concentrates, Inc., Garden Fever!, Livingscape Nursery, Naomi’s Organic Farm Supply, People’s Co-Op, the Urban Farm Store, and Whole Foods Market in Hollywood. And 20% off if you have the 2010 Chinook Book and buy your ticket at one of the above retailers. On Saturday, head for the parking lot at Westminster Presbyterian Church at 1624 NE Hancock to buy your tickets, as well as chickeny books and resources, organic breakfast treats and such.

On the chicken theme, Naomi Montacre of Naomi’s Organic Farm Supply – along with Lisa Ewing of the Avian Medical Center – will be teaching a PCC class – Chickens 201 – from 9 – 11 am at the store. Issues tackled include predators, health and behavioral issues, introducing new birds to the flock, and other chicken challenges. Sign up here. Cost: $29.

Finally, if you’re just dying to go on a mad plant-shopping spree, you might want to stop by Ferguson’s Fragrant Garden Nursery this Saturday July 24. They are closing their Lake Oswego store and in the consolidation process, are putting everything on sale at their St. Paul store, all while throwing their annual Midsummer Night’s Dream Fragrance Festival. Forty percent off is nothing to sniff at. The sale runs all day on Saturday and from 5 pm on, there will be light appetizers and wine and “inspirational music” plus tours and talks on cultivating fragrance in the garden. Directions here.

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Tags: Chickens, Plant Sale

good gardening

Bad, Naughty Invasive Plants

and what to do about them

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Salt cedar (Tamarisk ramosissima)

First of all, we must remember there really are no bad plants – just plants growing in the wrong places. Okay, with that out of the way…

The City of Portland is on a mission to try to control the spread of 15 of the most perniciously invasive plant species in the Metro area.

These plants have been introduced as garden ornamentals, in feed or, in some cases, have simply hitch-hiked on people’s shoes, in bird poop or hidden among other desirable plants. They usually start out innocently enough – sometimes, if they’re pretty, they are even tended by gardeners – but soon become established and begin to spread out of control.

In response to the overwhelming number of invasive plants plaguing our region, the City has adopted the Portland Early Detection and Rapid Response program to try to prevent the spread of the most fiercely invasive plants on the lists. Beginning July 1, 2010, Portland property owners are required to remove any species on the Required Eradication List.

Already wreaking havoc on agricultural land and native plants in our region, these invaders have been aggressively removed from public lands in recent years. Now, the City is requiring property owners to share the responsibility – since removing the plants from public property does no good if they just keep creeping back in from untended private property.

The City offers property owners free assistance to identify and remove the following plants:

1. Russian Knapweed (Acroptilon repens )
2. False Brome (Brachypodium sylvaticum )
3. Italian Thistle or Slender Flowered Thistle (Carduus pycnocephalus and Carduus tenuiflorus
4. Jubata grass (Cortaderia jubata )
5. Paterson’s Curse (Echium plantagineum )
6. Giant Hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum )
7. Orange Hawkweed (Hieracium aurantiacum )
8. Meadow Hawkweed (formerly listed as Yellow Hawkweed)(Hieracium pratense, syn. H. cespitosum )
9. Policeman’s Helmet (Impatiens glandulifera )
10. Scotch Thistle (Onopordum acanthium )
11. Common Reed (Phragmites australis – introduced variation only)
12. Kudzu (Pueraria lobata )
13. Blessed Milk Thistle (Silybum marianum )
14. Saltcedar (Tamarix ramosissima )
15. Gorse (Ulex europaeus )

You can identify these plants here – click on the name for images and details. The page also includes fact sheets to help with eradication and contact information if you need to speak with someone.

While many of these plants show up in disturbed areas alongside roads or on large construction sites and the like, I have seen several of them popping up in people’s gardens. I even found Scotch thistle emerging in my own garden this spring – probably spread by birds. It’s worth taking a look at the list and just getting to know these plants so you can keep an eye out for them. Several of them have very icky qualities, such as producing toxic sap (giant hogweed) or painfully glass-like, sharp leaves (Scotch thistle) that make removal quite torturous. But, it must be added, not impossible!

More information on invasive plant management can be found here.

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Tags: Weeds

garden tours

A Garden With Chutzpa

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Wynton-Pajunas garden

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Native garden

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A vertical wall panel – like a painting – on the wall above the rain garden

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A rain garden, where the water from the shed roof drains in winter. Natives are planted in here, too.

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A view of the front garden, including the green roof on the shed (right, center) and, to the left, the entry along the front sidewalk.

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The vegetable garden is one of the best places to sit with a cookbook and plan dinner!

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What an enticing combination! (That’s Cotinus ‘Golden Spirit’.)

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A view of the sunny part of the garden… from the shady part. To the right, hot pink bee balm (Monarda sp.)

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The creative duo – Marina Wynton and Mike Pajunas

Last weekend’s ANLD garden tour included a garden that really captured my interest and my heart. The garden’s husband-and-wife creators – Marina Wynton, artist/landscape and interior designer and Mike Pajunas, artist and tile/stone contractor – have made a remarkable outdoor space that integrates natives and exotics in a way that is both intelligent and fun. And definitely gutsy: it takes real chutzpa to paint your house magenta with lime-green trim, don’t you think?

The garden has just about everything I love in a garden in one place: great lounging spots, lots of sparky color, crunchy paths and patios (river rock, in this case – not gravel), site-appropriate planting and a diverse array of plants to support native insects and birds.

The day of the tour was hot. I stumbled around the garden for a while, snapped some pictures, and eventually plunked myself down in a shady chair and absorbed. When I found Marina and Mike, we chatted about the ingenious structures, the diverse collection of native plants and more. Mike, who built the new driveway, shed, fences, and pretty much every other structure and bit of hard-scaping in the place, enthusiastically showed me some of their native plant treasures including some local Willamette Valley natives. I appreciated how the native plants were layered so well (understory, mid-story and canopy) – it was nice to sit in a chair opposite it and just stare into the layers of plantings.

I loved the rich purple-blue hydrangeas against the pink house, the hot pink bee balm (Monarda), and many other punchy and colorful plantings. And several other interesting features of the garden (and there are many) were mentioned in an earlier article in Portland Monthly Magazine.

The native garden in particular captivated me. I loved how the plants fit together much as they do in nature – not only the layering of individual plants in relationship to each other but also the siting of the plants in places where they were destined to thrive (sun-loving plants in hot spots, moisture-loving plants in low-lying areas etc). It always surprises me how easy it is for avid gardeners to forget that we must take our cues on what to plant where from the environment itself – rather than choosing plants based on what we want to see in a particular spot! We all do it sometimes – and sometimes it even works – but there’s a special grace and beauty in a garden where plants are growing in proper relationship with the environment.

Their garden has earned quite a collection of wildlife, habitat and environmental certifications – testament to their commitment to land stewardship. See the slideshow to get a better sense of the many environmental features of this garden.

The garden will be open (free) three more times this year to members of the Hardy Plant Society of Oregon – one more reason to join up for a mere $35 per year.

Marina Wynton and Mike Pajunas, Garden and Interior Designer: Olivine Landscape Design

Hardy Plant Society of Oregon

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Tags: Slideshow, Native Plants, Garden Visits

plant of the week

Painted Tongue

the best annual flower of 2010

Salpiglossis

Salpiglossis ‘Purplestar Galactica’ (Xera Plants selection)

I’m mad for Salpiglossis this year. And my timing’s impeccable: Salpiglossis are back in fashion and much more richly colored, compact and slinkier than the ones I painstakingly started from seed when I was a nerdy 11 year-old. Yes, they were big in the ’70s, and before that, in Victorian times.

Painted tongue (oh heck, just call it Salpiglossis!) are annuals – this is another way of saying, we only get to enjoy them for one growing season, and then they die – just like tomato or zinnia plants.

But even if just enjoyed for one season, Salpiglossis are truly worth growing. For one, they look like real plants – unlike so many annuals that look stiff, overbred and too much like little dwarf flowering machines. Salpiglossis flower like crazy but on waving, two-foot stems that blend beautifully with other plants. I love them with soft grasses like Mexican feather grass (Stipa tenuissima) and other delicate, feathery or tiny-flowered things like catmint or near the elegant spires of Salvia ‘Caradonna’.

Modern hybrids come in an astonishing array of fashionable and vibrant colors from bright orange, yellow shades and brown (these go great with plants from New Zealand!) to zingy electric purple, blue, mauve (very Victorian), and burgundy, often with contrasting veins. The flared, funnel-shaped flowers measure an inch or two in diameter and are produced continuously from summer to frost.

They are easy to grow, providing their basic needs are met: partial to full sun, rich soil and regular water. I deadhead them, too, to keep them flowering. I have planted some in containers this year and suspect they’ll do well, as long as I remember to water them.

Start Salpiglossis from seed in early in spring – or just procrastinate until it’s too late and buy already growing plants from Annie’s Annuals or local retail nurseries that sell Xera Plants.

Here’s a selection of wholesaler Xera Plants’ Salpiglossis for 2010 – or just head to one of the retailers that sell Xera Plants.

Here are Annie’s Annuals’ Salpiglossis (mail-order).

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Tags: Flowers

Get Dirty

Pruning Lavender

here’s how to do it – plus highlights from the Lavender Festival

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This image shows the flowering lavender on the far right (still purple). To their left are several rows of lavender whose flowers have been harvested for processing – bundles are grasped with one hand, clipped with the other, then tossed into baskets to be distilled into oil. On the left, the worker is pruning the recently-harvested lavenders into compact “pillows,” the perfect form to keep plants tidy.

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This image shows the flowering lavender on the far right (still purple). To their left are several rows of lavender whose flowers have been harvested for processing – bundles are grasped with one hand, clipped with the other, then tossed into baskets to be distilled into oil. On the left, the worker is pruning the recently-harvested lavenders into compact “pillows,” the perfect form to keep plants tidy.

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The goal is to create a slightly rounded puffy pillow form so maximum light reaches the whole plant. You can use hedge shears for larger plants.

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Same goes for larger lavender plants – I think of it as a “puffy pillow shape”. Or maybe a “slightly rounded Junior mint”. Whatever works for you!

My Sunday was spent out in Yamhill County at the Oregon Lavender Festival at Beulah Park in the town of Yamhill. It was a gorgeous day and my friends and I learned a ton about lavender production and crafts as well as the lavender plants themselves.

There was unexpectedly good music while we were there (vocalist Mary Kadderly with Dan Gildea, guitar) in addition to the many lavender craft booths. We checked out the lavender still set up by Oliver Springs Lavender, where oil is pressed from the flowers. Apparently, they custom-process lavender; call Butch Bochart at 503-538-5791 if you’re interested in their distilling services for your own lavender flowers.

We also stopped by wholesale grower Van Hevelingen Herb’s booth, where we found an astonishing array of lavender plants, both unusual and classic, as well as penstemon, hardy fuchsia, scented geranium, salvia, and culinary herbs. He’s the fellow I interviewed the other day about various types of lavender and how to grow them. His booth contained a variety of compact, dark purple lavenders, several of which came home with me.

A short ride from the park site was Willakenzie Lavender Farm. Willakenzie has production fields of lavender, as well as labeled rows of different lavender cultivars, ornamental gardens, and alpacas – each alpaca is sheared differently, as poodles sometimes are – some with fluffy “booties,” some with puffs on top of their heads, etc. (I thought it would be cool if they sheared the alpacas like lavender and the lavender into alpaca-shapes. But they didn’t go for my idea.) The gift shop sells rather fine lavender and alpaca products, some locally made. I was fascinated to sniff the different essential lavender oils: there were several types of English lavender and lavandins – the differences were truly distinct and remarkable to my nose.

Out in the fields, a young woman was pruning the lavender into perfect little pillows, providing a great example for those who would like to know how to keep their lavenders shapely and tidy over time.

Click on the slide show (above) to see how it’s done.

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Tags: Slideshow, Flowers

things to do

ANLD Garden Tour 2010

Saturday July 10, 2010

2010_gt_post_card
Photo: Shannon Garcia Shinn

Garden designed by Marina Wynton

COLOR. Somehow, even weeks after the rain’s stopped, I can’t get enough color. Or sunshine.

If, like me, you’re still in recovery from this spring’s gloomy, miserable rain and cold, then boy, have I got a garden tour for you.

Saturday July 10, the ANLD (Association of Northwest Landscape Designers) puts on its 2010 Behind-the-Scenes Garden Tour.

The nine gardens on the tour, created by professional garden designers and contractors with diverse specialties, include color-centric plantings, ecoroofs and rain gardens, aesthetically pleasing food gardens, native areas, art integrated in the garden, and more. The tour is centered on two areas: North/Northeast Portland and the Vancouver area – traveling between the gardens is easy.

WHAT: Association of Northwest Landscape Designers’ 7th Annual “Behind-the-Scenes Garden Tour”
WHEN: Saturday July 10, 2010 from 10 am to 4 pm
WHERE: North/Northeast Portland and Vancouver, WA (maps provided)
TICKETS: $20 – available through Friday afternoon at 5 pm at nurseries listed here and, if there are tickets left the day of the tour, some will be available at a few of the gardens. Maps provided with ticket.

Proceeds of the tour benefits the ANLD’s scholarship programs for landscape design students attending Metro area community colleges.

See you there!

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Tags: Garden Visits

plant of the week

Relax – It’s Lavender Time

Avh-lav
Photo: Andy Van Hevelingen

Spanish lavender

Early July is the height of the lavender flowering season – the perfect time to learn about the many different lavender types.

Lavender is a plant of many virtues. It’s a beautiful evergreen herb with a scent that leaves some of us susceptible types weak-kneed. It has interesting culinary uses – not just in jams and jellies but in pastry and savory dishes, as well. (A friend of mine makes a delectable lavender shortbread.) The scent of lavender is said to be relaxing – and actually, has been proven to be so (in part because we associate it with being relaxing – the human mind is a wondrous thing!) As a landscape plant, lavender is tough, drought-tolerant, fast-growing and useful in myriad garden settings, particularly low-water, mediterranean-style plantings.

But there’s even more that’s interesting about lavender. For one, there are over three hundred species and varieties in cultivation and, within those 300 some plants, there’s great variety in flowering time, form, flower and foliar color and even fragrance.

I asked herb expert and grower Andy Van Hevelingen of Van Hevelingen Herb Nursery for a summary of the three main types and their best uses.

1. Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas types)
Blooming in May, Spanish lavenders make 3-4 foot free-flowering landscape plants producing pine cone-like flower with two “flags” or “rabbit ears” on top – striking in bouquets and in the garden. Flowers range from pure white to purple, pink and reddish purple and bicolors with blues, whites and various shades of purple. It has a resinous, camphor-y scent.

2. English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
Flowering in June and July, English lavenders make perfectly mounded, knee-high shrubs to 8-10 inches high with relatively short flower spikes rising just above that height. Flowers range from pure white to pink, blue, purple and deep purple. Flowers may be dried, enjoyed fresh in bouquets, and used in cooking and oils. These are also the cold-hardiest lavenders – at least one down to -25F without cover. English lavender, with its classic, sweet scent, produces the most desirable oil and is used in higher quality lavender products.

3. Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia)
Flowering in July, lavandins are hybrids between L. angustifolia and L. latifolia and don’t produce seed – instead, plants are propagated by cutting. Colors are limited to pure whites and medium purple shades. These are big, dramatic shrubs, reaching hip or chest height when in flower. Because they are larger, they produce more flowers and oil and are important commercially. A classic lavandin, Grosso, is the source of 70% of the world’s lavender oil market, much of which is used in detergents and soaps.

Andy’s lavender tips:

Plant lavender in full sun (6-8 hours of sun keeps plants compact and free-flowering)

Provide excellent drainage to improve longevity and survival through extra-wet winters such as the one we just experienced.

Shear or trim lavenders back directly after flowering. For Spanish lavender, cut it back in late June (or now); for English lavender, cut it back in a week or so; and the lavandins can be cut back in about 3 or 4 weeks, as they finish blooming.

Additional thoughts: Hedge shears speed up the job. Go for a slightly rounded yet flattened, pancake-like form. Lavenders rarely respond well to cutting deep into old wood so light annual shearing works better than a radical haircut when the plant’s already too far gone.

Visit Andy Van Hevelingen’s booth at this weekend’s Yamhill Lavender Festival in historic Yamhill running Saturday July 10 from 10 – 9 and Sunday July 11 from 10 – 5. Since it’s in the heart of wine country, be ready to tipple – there will be local wine tasting, as well as booths with specialty lavender treats, crafts, and bouquets.

Or check out this list for lavender destinations all over the greater Willamette Valley during the Oregon Lavender Festival. Lavender farms will be open from Hood River to Sauvie Island and the West Hills nearly down to Southern Oregon. During the festival, each farm will offer its own lavender specialties, whether plants, crafts, or bouquets.

Final note: I’ve been asked about the beautiful, deep purple, compact lavenders flowering around town right now. These are English lavender types – Andy said some of the darkest include the old-fashioned Hidcote, as well as some seven or eight other dark purple cultivars including Royal Velvet, Lodden Blue, Baby Blue and a new (patented), very compact dark purple called Thumbelina Leigh.

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Tags: Gardening Events, Gardening Tips, Garden Visits, Herbs

Get Dirty

Summer’s Here and the Time is Right – to Plant Veges!

Seed_flats__sprouted

Flats of broccoli, kale and leek seed I planted last July – different seeds emerge at different rates.

I recently heard someone say it is “too late” to plant vegetables. I’m happy to report that isn’t true. There are plenty of vegetable seed and starts that can be planted this month for summer, fall and winter harvest. Here’s what lies in store for the month of July in the vegetable patch:

For starters, there are greens.

Greens
Most greens grow best in cool spring and fall weather but some will also do fine in our hot summers if you take special care with watering and maybe providing some afternoon shade.

Decent summer greens include arugula, basil, lettuce, some Asian greens like mustards and bok choi. Cilantro and spinach are harder to grow in summer, as they quickly bolt (go to seed and stop producing tasty leaves) but given enough afternoon shade and plenty of moisture, even they can work. Look for varieties described as “good for summer sowing” – breeders are producing more bolt-resistant varieties every year.

Tips: Plant under shade cloth or where plants receive solid morning sun and afternoon shade. Sow greens every two weeks, keep well watered and harvest promptly to prevent plants from getting stressed and bolting.

Warm-weather crops
In early July, you can still plant some warm-weather crops. So much depends on the weather (as this spring demonstrated) but there may be time for one more crop of corn and beans from seed – or plant starts. You could still get a decent crop if you plant starts of tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, squash, melons, cucumbers and pumpkins.

While you’ll harvest fewer fruit than if you’d planted earlier in Cozy Kotes, you could still get plenty if there’s a long, warm autumn. Plus, many folks planted their tomatoes out when it was still cold and their tomatoes just sat in misery for a month. Warm-weather crops planted in the balmy days of July could surpass those stunted from June’s unseasonably cold, wet conditions.

Tips:
First, choose fast-ripening varieties (labels usually say how many days to harvest) and smaller-fruited varieties, which ripen quicker. Keep well-watered, plant in rich soil in a warm or even hot spot, and fertilize well with organic fertilizer. If needed, cull the quantity of fruit on each plant to speed the ripening of existing fruit.

Autumn and winter crops
These vegetables will supply you with food in autumn, winter or early spring.

Good autumn crops to direct-sow in July include beet, bulbing fennel, and carrots. Through mid-July, sow green onions and cole crops (crucifers) like quick/early broccoli and cabbage. Slower growing Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, late cabbages and slow/over-wintering broccoli are best sown through mid-July – or buy starts if it’s getting to the end of July. In mid-July, also seed parsnips and parsley, both of which will overwinter. Later in the month through early August, sow peas, radishes, spinach, and Swiss chard for late fall and winter harvest.

Tips: In summer, it’s easiest to sow seed under shade cloth. You can also sow seed in pots or flats in bright but indirect light – they’re easier to keep watered and you can move them into the garden when they are a bit sturdier. Remember that root crops like beets and carrots should be direct-sown in the ground, as they do not transplant well.

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Tags: Vegetables, Seeds

things to do

Independence Day Fireworks at The Oregon Garden

Greenroofgarden

A green roof demonstration garden at the Oregon Garden

I have to confess that I haven’t been to the Oregon Garden in years. I’m kind of a home-body and it takes a big kick in the pants to get me out of the city. But I’d like to get out more and I’m a sucker for rural parties, parades, and festivals.

If you are too, here’s a great excuse to visit the Oregon Garden on Saturday July 3: the Silverton Day Concert and Fireworks at the Oregon Garden. It’s billed as a day of family fun, with food and treats. Silverton residents and Oregon Garden members get free admission to the Garden all day. Non-Silverton residents receive free admission to the Garden from 6 pm on. If you like country music, there’s a 7 pm concert by Nasheville recording artist (and Oregonian) Amy Clawson (tickets are $15 – $10 for Silverton residents). And at 10 pm, a reputedly extravagant fireworks display begins. Above all else, it’s a great excuse to get out there and see the gardens.

Check out the list – here – of the various gardens. They include a conifer garden planned, planted and maintained by local members of the American Conifer Society; native gardens (including some ancient native garry oaks); demonstration gardens with flower beds, edibles gardens, composting, green roofs and more; large designed flower gardens with water features; pet-friendly and sensory gardens; and quite a lot more. I haven’t been myself in a long time so can’t speak of them personally. But I’m very curious and would love feedback from anyone who’s been recently.

What:
Silverton Day Concert & Fireworks

When:
Saturday July 3 @ 10 pm (Garden open from 7 am onwards)

Where:
The Oregon Garden
879 W Main Street
Silverton, OR 97381

Directions

Garden admission: $10 adults, $9 seniors, $8 children 8 – 18 years and free for 7 year-olds and under.

Questions? Explore the website or call 503-874-8100

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Tags: Garden Visits

things to do

Visit Luscher Farm

Oregon Tilth Organic demonstration gardens, a clematis vine collection, community gardens, Three Rivers Land Conservancy trails and more

Community_gardens
Photo: Kate Bryant

There is a huge City of Lake Oswego community garden on the property – I’ve never seen so many creative and beautifully-maintained plots!

View Slideshow » Photo: Kate Bryant

There is a huge City of Lake Oswego community garden on the property – I’ve never seen so many creative and beautifully-maintained plots!

View Slideshow » Photo: Kate Bryant

A luscious clump of red Oswego tea (Monarda didyma) grew in one of the community garden plots. You can taste the sweet and spicy-floral nectar by pulling out the individual red tepals – the nectar collects at the base. Just make sure you have the right plant! (Thanks, Josh, for introducing me to this delicious treat.) Monarda is a fantastic hummingbird, butterfly and bee plant – but spreads a bit too fast in damp soil.

View Slideshow » Photo: Kate Bryant

Oregon Tilth’s Organic Education Center is at Luscher Farm. There are many demonstration plots showing food crops being grown using different methods. I gleaned some interesting ideas.

View Slideshow » Photo: Kate Bryant

One new thing I learned about my all time favorite food: potatoes can be grown in partial shade and within a bale of straw. Nice idea! Let me know if you want more info on doing this.

View Slideshow » Illustration: Clematis florida Sieboldii – a fussy customer but that’s never stopped clematis lovers from trying… this was in a greenhouse at the Rogerson Clematis Collection at Luscher Farm. View Slideshow » Illustration:

In flower now at the Rogerson Clematis Collection garden at Luscher Farm – Clematis crispa.

View Slideshow » Photo: Kate Bryant

Twining delicately around a bird bath, this pink clematis (Adagio) only grows a few feet tall – perfect for the small garden.

View Slideshow » Photo: Kate Bryant

The farmhouse is surrounded by blowsy cottage gardens stuffed with clematis vines, interplanted with shrubs and perennials. It’s a great place to see the versatility of clematis in the garden – they can twine up the trunk of a tree or into a shrub, wind up a trellis or tuteur in the traditional style, drape over a bird bath, or just twine through perennials, depending on the size and type.

Looking for inspiration or want to learn more about organic vegetable gardening? Interested in seeing a diversity of clematis vines in a lovely, cottage-garden setting? Or perhaps you’d just like to take a walk on one of the metro area’s Three Rivers Land Conservancy trails.

There’s a lot to do and see at Luscher Farm in West Linn. It’s a great field trip, including with kids – there is a historic bird house with cavorting chickens, pigeons, and small game birds, and plenty of room for kids to run and play.

During my visit with photographer friend Josh McCullough of Phytophoto, I took in the Oregon Tilth Organic Education Center and demonstration garden, the Lake Oswego Community Gardens and the Rogerson Clematis Collection. The Hazelia Field Dog Park is also on the property, as well as an athletic field and several CSA farms.

Click on the slide show (above) to get a little taste of what’s there – and do visit Luscher Farm soon. It’s a remarkable site, with sweeping views in all directions and so much inspiring vitality and diversity in the food gardens. There’s a fantastic story to the place posted on the wall of the historic bird house. Apparently, the property (including house, barn and outbuildings) was donated to the City of Lake Oswego by a retired farmer. It seems to me it’s being put to the best possible use by its current caretakers. You’ll leave feeling inspired.

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Tags: Slideshow, Flowers, Vegetables, Edible Gardening, Vines

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