Like an unrepentant playboy uncle who refuses to settle down, the Matador continues to age somewhat disgracefully—and the denizens of the dark little cavern with the rec-room aesthetic wouldn’t have it any other way. New owners—and longtime cook and bartender, respectively—Casey Maxwell and Rebecca Moon Wolfe have tidied the place with new upholstery and upgraded the plumbing, but they’ve kept the seedy, velvet-painting ambiance intact. The bar, usually three-deep with rockers from some of Portland’s less genteel bands, is still tended by the vigilant Laura May Carroll, who can recall a regular’s drink of choice even after a six-month separation. The mixed drinks are puissant and priced to move, and Pabst Blue Ribbon is always in season.

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