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Why is the bar in this multileveled, shiplike behemoth full of grinning office drones at 2 p.m. on a Friday? Looks like the three-martini lunch has been replaced by the two-pint afternoon bailout. No wonder America can no longer compete in the worldwide market. But we have to admit, it’s pretty amusing to order a Sea Dog Blue Paw Wild Blueberry Wheat or some other esoteric offering and then watch the beer-tender wander among more than 100 taps, searching for the proper pull. Considering most drinkers here are still on the clock, no one seems to mind the wait.

It’s easy to understand why Henry’s is so consistently packed from 3 to 6, and after 9 Sunday through Wednesday (not to mention Thursday through Saturday after 10:30) when perusing the abundant happy hour menu. The $3 gorgonzola fries are a meal (an artery-clogging meal, but a meal nonetheless) and the $4 Reuben rolls make for some of the the most satisfying snacking anywhere.

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