wine pioneer trail

Mott Trail



Before you check out of the Steamboat, take the short walk over to the Mott Trailhead, part of the 79-mile North Umpqua Trail. The Mott segment (5.5 miles round-trip) will take you through old-growth forest and past the silky green Umpqua River, which is often teeming with steelhead and chinook salmon—and fly-fishermen.


Portland’s foodie tide hasn’t quite washed over Roseburg. However, Mark V Bar and Grill is a strong early wave. In addition to salads, hearty sandwiches (the Reuben, in particular, is a hit), and pastas, there’s an eclectic tapas menu that includes everything from sautéed mussels and prawns to spicy kimchi. 563 SE Main St; 541-229-6275


After diligently researching how to grow high-quality tempranillo grapes, Earl and Hilda Jones settled upon 500 acres in Southern Oregon, an area climatically similar to Spain’s Rioja region. The result is Abacela and a full-bodied, award-winning tempranillo, plus several other wines from estate-grown vineyards, including the malbec, the viognier, and the albariño. 11-5 daily; 12500 Lookingglass Rd, Roseburg; 541-679-6642;; no fee for three pours; $5 for five


wine traveler cayenna caramels
Image: Dasja Dolan

Cayenne caramels at Lillie Belle Farms

At Spangler, just a few miles south, you can enjoy rich, Old World–style cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and malbec. Winemaker Pat Spangler uses minimal sulfites and proudly dry-farms his 40-year-old estate vineyards of syrah and cabernet sauvignon. He also makes a refreshing unoaked chardonnay and a honeysuckle-scented viognier. 11-5 daily; 491 Winery Ln, Roseburg; 541-679-9654;; no fee for three pours; $5 for a reserve flight


Cheese lovers will want to make a pit stop at the Rogue Creamery—part factory, part shop, all deliciousness. Manager Tom Van Voorhees will lead you through a tasting of the chocolate-stout cheddar and the natural-rinded Caveman Blue as you watch cheese artisans hand-rack and stir the curds. Sat 9–6, Sun 11–5; 311 N Front St/Hwy 99, Central Point; 866-396-4704;

Next door, enjoy the truffle-making at Lillie Belle Farms. Goodies here range from a dark chocolate Maker’s Mark bonbon to a single-origin ganache from Madagascar. Sat 9-6, Sun 11-5; 211 N Front St; 541-664-2815


wine pioneer steak plate

Coriander-crusted filet mignon at Nunan Estate’s carriage house restaurant

Check In

In 1892, Jeremiah Nunan ordered a stately Queen Anne Victorian house from a Sears catalog. Cost: $7,000. Today, the elegantly appointed Nunan Estate is a lovely, eight-room bed-and-breakfast. Five rooms—including the crimson-hued Peacock Parlor—are located in the main house, and three spacious ones are in the carriage house, above the inn’s excellent restaurant. 635 N Oregon St, Jacksonville; 541-899-1890;; doubles from $85


The Umpqua Valley will leave many impressions on a visitor, but few more indelible than a meal by chef Tim Keller at the Nunan Estate’s Carriage House Restaurant. Try the melt-in-your mouth black cod, sautéed with a sweet-chile hoisin sauce and topped with sesame seeds, fish roe, and snow peas.